GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #537

ron & gina

New member
Apr 23, 1999
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Sounds alot better Duane, Now I only have to remove tranny cooler and rock
guard. Was hoping it wasn't to bad. I do have one of the hard to remove 9lb
caps, and the fan does work start-up, on hills. Normal temp at 118 outside
temp is just above 1/4 mark, except when climbing long hill at same outside
temp. at half to peak of hill, so am not sure if I have a big problem with
my cooling. Hoping the rodding/cleaning of Radiator and flush of engine will
do the job. Thanks again

Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Fort Mohave.AZ.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: duane m simmons
To:
Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #537

> Ron & Gina
> To remove the radiator you do not have to remove the cage. Disconnect
> everything going to the radiator & items in front of radiator. Lift
> radiator up & then out at the bottom(toward bumper) & down & out it
> comes. Simple item to remove.....shroud etc stays in place.
> One item that makes the radiator leak is using the wrong Pressure Cap.
> Should be 9 pounds (no greater than 10 pounds). The 9 pound ones that I
> have seen are round & hard to get off & on. Therefore I use a 7 pound
> cap for many years. The high pressure caps will expand the Radiator &
> develop leaks. Also your coach is running much...much to hot & this will
> kill a Radiator also. The OEM temperature gauge should never get above
> the 3/8 mark if the fan clutch is working. Many fan clutches do not work
> properly.....you should hear the clutch engage before the 3/8 mark & stay
> on until the temperature drops. I use a Hayden #2797 (severe duty) from
> Pep Boys (about $90 Lifetime). If it works right it only makes noise
> when the temperature is up & first thing in the morning.
>
> Duane Simmons
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
 
Oh Yea Forgot the AC Coils, But still thinking!!!!

Ron&Gina
73 Pumpkin-Rose
Fort Mohave,AZ

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ron & Gina
To:
Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #537

> Sounds alot better Duane, Now I only have to remove tranny cooler and rock
> guard. Was hoping it wasn't to bad. I do have one of the hard to remove
9lb
> caps, and the fan does work start-up, on hills. Normal temp at 118 outside
> temp is just above 1/4 mark, except when climbing long hill at same
outside
> temp. at half to peak of hill, so am not sure if I have a big problem with
> my cooling. Hoping the rodding/cleaning of Radiator and flush of engine
will
> do the job. Thanks again
>
> Ron&Gina
> 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> Fort Mohave.AZ.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: duane m simmons
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 12:28 PM
> Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #537
>
>
> > Ron & Gina
> > To remove the radiator you do not have to remove the cage. Disconnect
> > everything going to the radiator & items in front of radiator. Lift
> > radiator up & then out at the bottom(toward bumper) & down & out it
> > comes. Simple item to remove.....shroud etc stays in place.
> > One item that makes the radiator leak is using the wrong Pressure Cap.
> > Should be 9 pounds (no greater than 10 pounds). The 9 pound ones that I
> > have seen are round & hard to get off & on. Therefore I use a 7 pound
> > cap for many years. The high pressure caps will expand the Radiator &
> > develop leaks. Also your coach is running much...much to hot & this
will
> > kill a Radiator also. The OEM temperature gauge should never get above
> > the 3/8 mark if the fan clutch is working. Many fan clutches do not
work
> > properly.....you should hear the clutch engage before the 3/8 mark &
stay
> > on until the temperature drops. I use a Hayden #2797 (severe duty) from
> > Pep Boys (about $90 Lifetime). If it works right it only makes noise
> > when the temperature is up & first thing in the morning.
> >
> > Duane Simmons
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> > Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> > Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
>
 
Just remember that if you have Dash AC that you will have the added cost
of recharging your system which could add 3 t 4 hundred dollars to your
repairs. Cutting the lower supports and lowering the radiator out the
bottom you can leave the AC condenser and lines intact. The choice is
yours.

J.R. Wright
GMC Greatlaker
77 Eleganza II
Michigan

>
> Sounds alot better Duane, Now I only have to remove tranny cooler and rock
> guard. Was hoping it wasn't to bad. I do have one of the hard to remove 9lb
> caps, and the fan does work start-up, on hills. Normal temp at 118 outside
> temp is just above 1/4 mark, except when climbing long hill at same outside
> temp. at half to peak of hill, so am not sure if I have a big problem with
> my cooling. Hoping the rodding/cleaning of Radiator and flush of engine will
> do the job. Thanks again
>
> Ron&Gina
> 73 Pumpkin-Rose
> Fort Mohave.AZ.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: duane m simmons
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 12:28 PM
> Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Motorhome Digest V2 #537
>
> > Ron & Gina
> > To remove the radiator you do not have to remove the cage. Disconnect
> > everything going to the radiator & items in front of radiator. Lift
> > radiator up & then out at the bottom(toward bumper) & down & out it
> > comes. Simple item to remove.....shroud etc stays in place.
> > One item that makes the radiator leak is using the wrong Pressure Cap.
> > Should be 9 pounds (no greater than 10 pounds). The 9 pound ones that I
> > have seen are round & hard to get off & on. Therefore I use a 7 pound
> > cap for many years. The high pressure caps will expand the Radiator &
> > develop leaks. Also your coach is running much...much to hot & this will
> > kill a Radiator also. The OEM temperature gauge should never get above
> > the 3/8 mark if the fan clutch is working. Many fan clutches do not work
> > properly.....you should hear the clutch engage before the 3/8 mark & stay
> > on until the temperature drops. I use a Hayden #2797 (severe duty) from
> > Pep Boys (about $90 Lifetime). If it works right it only makes noise
> > when the temperature is up & first thing in the morning.
> >
> > Duane Simmons
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> > Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> > Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
 
Rick,
Although I do most of my own work on the GMC there are some things that
cost alot to redo. Freon runs anywhere between 40 to 55 dollars a pound
and the unit takes a little over 3.6 pounds for a fill. New dryer is
55 dollars and assorted O-rings another 10 dollars and 2 to 3 hours
labor at 52 dollars an hour. Let's see, that added up to anywhere
between 315 and 395 dollars. That's at current prices.

J.R. Wright

>

>
> > Just remember that if you have Dash AC that you will have the added cost
> > of recharging your system which could add 3 t 4 hundred dollars to your
> > repairs. Cutting the lower supports and lowering the radiator out the
> > bottom you can leave the AC condenser and lines intact.
>
> John,
> I know Freon 12 is getting dear, but 3 to 400 dollars to recharge???? Did
> this guy sell you a bridge too? Even here in high-priced booming Colorado I
> think you could get it cheaper than that.
> For anyone who must open up their AC system, try to find an AC shop that
> will recover your old Freon, and then "sell it back to you" at a greatly
> discounted price after repairs are completed. Recovery is the "right thing
> to do" anyways, and this should save you some money.
> BTW, when I removed and reinstalled my radiator last summer (the hard way,
> frame and all, no cutting) it was not necessary to disconnect or remove the
> condenser. Just unbolted and tied it up.
> HTH.
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO
>