Moog!
> GMC Motorhome Digest Wednesday, January 14 1998 Volume 01 : Number 070
>
> In this issue of the GMC Motorhome List Digest:
>
> GMC: Wheels
> GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: Wheels
> Re: GMC: GMC Registry
> Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> GMC: RE: Engine Accessibility
> Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> GMC: Great List!
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: Great List!
>
> To post to the GMC Motorhome List, send
> email to gmcmotorhome
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:53:37 -0500
> From: searlecj (Clark Searle)
> Subject: GMC: Wheels
>
> When I switched to Alcoa wheels, I would up with a surplus
> set of six steel 16.5" wheels- radial type. If anyone is
> interested, phone is 517-772-1864.
>
> Clark Searle
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:52:37 -0800
> From: prismz
> Subject: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> The responses to the oil pressure question raised by Mr. Edelbach have
> been interesting, but my experience and my mechanic (whom I trust) tell
> me that it's more important that the oil pressure being shown on the
> gauge at all readings be consistent: that is, steady at any given
> engine r.p.m. These gauges are all "approximate" in any event; no real
> values can be assumed by the markings on the face of the gauge itself.
>
> I get quite a chuckle out of those that propose to do the Cadillac 500
> cu.in. engine swap. I recall a story a couple of years ago in one of
> the "mainstream" automotive magazines (my best recollection is that it
> was Car and Driver, but I might be wrong...) about an enthusiast that
> had done exactly the swap that's been proposed.
>
> I remember pictures of the front wheels spinning, with great clouds of
> smoke being produced; this certainly seconds the motion of those
> responding to the suggestion that it's important to keep in mind that
> you have to get that power to the ground somehow!
>
> I have also seen a couple of (non-GMC-motorhome related) over the years
> addressing the busisness of swapping a 454 for the 455. The articles
> refer to a difference in the overall physical "envelope" of the engine
> and I, for one, would be most concerned that the present flat floor
> between the front seats might have to be modified if th e 454 is in fact
> taller overall. This is in addition to the work required that Patrick
> Flowers details in his response, and as he points out, is no small
> effort.
>
> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it, and
> look forward to the future!
>
> Bill Marx
> '76 Eleganza II
> Livingston, Texas (presently in Seattle, Washington - brrr!)
> billmarx
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:13:43 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 22:54:47 EST, you write:
>
> addressing the busisness of swapping a 454 for the 455. The articles
> refer to a difference in the overall physical "envelope" of the engine
> and I, for one, would be most concerned that the present flat floor
> between the front seats might have to be modified if th e 454 is in fact
> taller overall. This is in addition to the work required that Patrick
> Flowers details in his response, and as he points out, is no small
> effort.
>
> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it, and
> look forward to the future! >>
>
> Bill
>
> I could not agree with you more. I love this place.
>
> I too have enjoyed the comments about engine swaps--both ways. The way
> I see it I have a 455-------now what? Where can I get multi-port fuel
> injection?
> Sorry but thats what I want to do. It may be like my desire for SS brake lines
> but what the heck. I have tillted at bigger windmills. Keep it up folks.
> Build it and they will come.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:17:40 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wheels
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 21:56:19 EST, you write:
>
> When I switched to Alcoa wheels, I would up with a surplus
> set of six steel 16.5" wheels- radial type. If anyone is
> interested, phone is 517-772-1864.
> >>
>
> Clark
>
> Me too. Would hate to see them become fire rings.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:26:44 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Registry
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 16:03:50 EST, you write:
>
> According to my mechanical guru, Alex Sirum, ball joints are usually
> replaced by 80k miles. That is how he tells if they have been replaced
> and if the coach odometer has been around once or not.
>
> Original ball joints were rivited and replacements are bolted.
> >>
>
> David
>
> Thanks for the reply. My question is which ball joint is the strongest?
> Which can be greased? Anyone know which one lasts the longest?
> Thanks all for being here and helping.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:18:27 EST
> From: davegreenberg1 (david l greenberg)
> Subject: Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
>
> Phil, the shop that does my GMC work removes the engine thru the door on
> some kind of track or rail he has made. I suppose, however, if the entire
> drive train is being removed it might drop out of the bottom without
> affecting the suspension.
>
> The engine exit the door without disrupting the MH but I would imagine
> the major engine components are removed first. others can probably tell
> you how it is done.
>
> I have your Canyonlands in the Registry.
>
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> 200 Macfarlane Drive
> Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
>
> >Hi folks,
> >
> > I just bought a 1973 Canyonlands with 79,000 original miles from
> >the
> >original owner and it appears to be running very well. But as I look
> >at
> >the engine, my question is what is the easiest way to get it pulled?
> >Down the bottom or out the door? To get it out the bottom, it seems
> >like
> >it would require one heck of an angle to jack up the front for
> >clearance. Out the door appears tight and maybe would require
> >stripping
> >to the bare block first? Some people on the list are talking about
> >installing high volume oil pumps and the like but how in the heck do
> >you
> >drop that oil pan with the trans covering access to the pan. I will be
> >purchasing the shop manual (s) soon which might help. By the way, does
> >anyone have a set of manuals to cover the 73? Don't need the
> >supplemental books which cover later years. If so, please give me a
> >call
> >or drop an E line and let me know what you want for them.
> >
> > Thanks, Phil Swanson
> > 1750 South Point
> >Dr.
> > Bonita, Ca. 91902
> >
> > (619) 421-7276
> > Phil
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:33:16 -0500
> From: Greg_Wales (Greg Wales)
> Subject: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> All:
> I have a 1976 GMC Palm Beach I bought in 1996 with 54,000 actual miles. It is
> like new in many ways
> but the power drawer generator with 240 hours on it, while it starts and runs
> fine, it does not generate any power. I have an original manual but it tells me
> nothing about fuses, electrical checks etc. The 110v
> fuse box and everything associated with it appears to be o.k.(when plugged into
> shore power).
> Three questions: 1-How do you check generator output(at what location) and are
> there any fuses involved. 2-How do I tell if is a 4000 or 6000 watt model. 3-Is
> there an after-market direct replacement for this unit or should I have this one
> rebuilt by Onan.
> Thanks!
> Greg Wales/Fairfax,Virginia.
>
> P.S. To the GMC MH Registry: I will send info on this and another GMC-MH I have
> owned at a time in the future.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:23:43 -0500
> From: 9675.0203
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> >
> > All:
> > I have a 1976 GMC Palm Beach I bought in 1996 with 54,000 actual miles. It is
> > like new in many ways
> > but the power drawer generator with 240 hours on it, while it starts and runs
> > fine, it does not generate any power.
> > Thanks!
> > Greg Wales/Fairfax,Virginia.
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Greg,
>
> Sounds like the Bridge Rectififer in the gen set is bad. These can go
> bad if the gen set is shut down with a load on it. It has no effect on
> the running of the gen set, it just won't generate 120 volts AC. New
> rectifier is part # 707164 and cost more than $26.00 2 years ago
> (Cinnabar). The above is from Wes Caughlan's (Cinnanbar) article on
> this subject in Cinnabar's newsletter - #10 - December, 1996. Other
> data is included in the article.
>
> Hr In Indy
> 9675.0203
> =======================================================================
>
> ======================================================================
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:44:35 -0500
> From: "Bartz, Paul"
> Subject: GMC: RE: Engine Accessibility
>
> Phil:
>
> One method I know several people have used is to remove the sub-frame,
> which the engine resides on, by first disconnecting everything and then
> with the coach elevated, rolling the sub-frame and all out from under.
> They claim it is much quicker to do it that way. Would be glad to
> provide individual name (he lives in Louisville KY), etc., if
> interested.
>
> Haven't heard of anyone needing other than the original type oil pump.
>
> Shop/parts manuals are available from Cinnabar in Sandusky MI. Wes
> Coughlin is the owner and I understand he resides just North of you in
> the Laguna Hills area, I believe. His e-mail address is gmcmh
> if interested.
>
> Paul Bartz, Kalamazoo MI
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Phil Swanson [SMTP
hil]
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 9:43 PM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> >
> > Hi folks,
> >
> > I just bought a 1973 Canyonlands with 79,000 original miles from
> > the original owner and it appears to be running very well. But as I
> > look at the engine, my question is what is the easiest way to get it
> > pulled? Down the bottom or out the door? To get it out the bottom,
> > it seems like it would require one heck of an angle to jack up the
> > front for clearance. Out the door appears tight and maybe would
> > require stripping to the bare block first? Some people on the list
> > are talking about installing high volume oil pumps and the like but
> > how in the heck do you drop that oil pan with the trans covering
> > access to the pan. I will be purchasing the shop manual (s) soon
> > which might help. By the way, does anyone have a set of manuals to
> > cover the 73? Don't need the supplemental books which cover later
> > years. If so, please give me a call or drop an E line and let me know
> > what you want for them.
> >
> > Thanks, Phil Swanson
> > 1750 South Point
> > Dr.
> > Bonita, Ca. 91902
> >
> > (619) 421-7276
> > Phil
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:56:27 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
>
> >
> > But as I look at the engine, my question is what is the easiest way
> > to get it pulled? Down the bottom or out the door?
>
> I know one owner whose mechanic removed one windshield and hoisted the
> engine out thru the opening. BTW, the mechanic wouldn't take
> responsibility for the glass - go figure.
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:11:26 EST
> From: ShadowNo1
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> Greg,
>
> I have a 78 Eleganza and was having trouble with my generator, I found an Onan
> Shop in my area (look in phone book), they are quite common as I live in
> Naples, FL and we have one.
>
> He only charged me $25 to inspect it, showed me the problem, and repaired it
> for about $300 (I needed the circuit board) I also chose to get a tuneup,
> plugs, filter, oil change, replaced hoses and carb rebuild) final total was
> $600 and it has worked great ever since.
>
> Also check the flexible fuel line behind the gen. Mine was real brittle and I
> replaced it just in time. That I did my self (REAL dirty job) for about $10.
>
> The 110v fuse box and everything associated with it appears to be o.k.(when
> plugged into shore power).
>
> Since shore power works, test the "plug" in the side access compartment (where
> you hook up water/elec). Get a voltage tester and see if you have voltage
> there.
> The plug is actually 2 circuits, 2 hot leads, 1 return and 1 ground.
>
> 1-How do you check generator output(at what location) and are there any fuses
> involved. It's just like a dryer plug.
>
> O || || ||
> Check between each Hot and the Return for voltage. If nothing, then it may be
> as simple as a broken cable to gen or the gen itself. I'm not sure where best
> to check on gen. There is a trip-switch on top/rear of gen. It is on front of
> a small box.
>
> 2-How do I tell if is a 4000 or 6000 watt model.
> I believe all 26 footers can with a 6000. Mine is a 6000 and is painted green
> in color with a white 6000 painted on the front. The 4k was much smaller and
> came on the 23 foot models. I believe it was painted either brown or copper.
> Not sure.
>
> 3-Is there an after-market direct replacement for this unit or should I have
> this one
> rebuilt by Onan.
> There are replacements (not the same), actually much quieter and improved over
> std model. But they are expensive. Camping World has several from 3500-7000
> watts and priced from $2500 to over $5000! Ouch.
>
> I would have mine fixed if possible. In fact I did! I have put over 100 hours
> on it
> since repair.
>
> Mike Finnicum
> Naples, FL
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:15:01 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> The story about pulling the engine out by removing the windshield
> reminded me of two things.
>
> First is that this guy was pulling his engine because an oil cooler line
> had burst, seizing the engine. It was a shame too. He had just
> purchased the coach, a beautiful 75 or 76 Palm Beach with 45k original
> miles, in an estate sale and the motor was tight(not even an oil leak).
>
> The oil line hazard is probably one of the least understood maintenance
> concerns with these machines. You wouldn't consider driving with 20
> year old radiator hoses, but some of these coaches still have the
> original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> "pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> might be a good idea.
>
> Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:41:26 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> As promised yesterday, I dug out the GMCMM "library" and looked for the
> transmission article. It wasn't easy to find because the section I
> recalled was in an article titled "Hey Mister, Your Motorhome Is On
> Fire!!!" (8/97).
>
> According to this article, transmission oil overflow may be the number
> one cause of fire in GMC's. When you drive the coach hard(accelerator
> pedal more than halfway down), the trans pressure regulating valve moves
> toward the bottom of its travel. When it reaches the bottom, it cuts
> off flow to the trans cooler and torque converter. In auto
> applications, this is usually a temporary situation, but in motorhomes,
> if you don't drive carefully, it can be an extended condition. The lack
> of cooling causes the fluid to expand, and if the trans is full, fluid
> may actually spew out the vent and filler neck. The author recommends
> keeping fluid level at the "ADD" mark and driving carefully to avoid
> this.
>
> So, it's not so much a transmission problem as it is a driving problem.
> Many of us(I'm guilty too) push our coaches too hard, thinking "since
> they'll go that fast, why not?" I'm not sure if there is a "fix" for
> this or not. I'm sure the THM400 trans used in truck app's must deal
> with this somehow.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:52:55 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Great List!
>
> >
> > In a message dated 98-01-13 22:54:47 EST, you write:
> >
> >> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it,
> >> and look forward to the future! >>
> >
> > I could not agree with you more. I love this place.
>
> It's really gratifying to me to see how the list is maturing. We're
> getting to the point that there's a lot of GMC experience represented
> here. In the beginning(hey, that was just back in September), it was
> tough to get direct answers for some newbie questions. These days,
> we're getting some great dialogue on some tough issues.
>
> Now, let me set the record straight. Often, I get emails giving me
> credit for the quality of this list. It ain't me guys. All I do is the
> technical stuff that keeps the electrons moving. You guys make this
> list great!
>
> OK, enough mushy stuff!
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:31:19 EST
> From: RickStapls
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> Patrick,
> I hate to disagree in my first post to the list, but the article about heavy
> throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in error. As a burned-out
> Master Technician myself, I thought something was fishy when I read rhat
> article, but not being familiar with the THM425 trans, I bit my tongue. Sure
> enough, a few months later GMCMM published a letter from Robert E. Annis,
> "Retired Chief Engineer, Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors Corporation"
> stating that "High line pressure does not position the regulator valve such
> that flow to the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read Mr.
> Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than him!
>
> PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
>
> Rick Staples, Louisville, Colorado
> 75 Eleganza 26'
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:57:15 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> >
> > Patrick,
> > I hate to disagree in my first post to the list,
>
> Never apologize for telling the truth!
>
> > but the article
> > about heavy throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in
> > error. As a burned-out Master Technician myself, I thought something
> > was fishy when I read rhat article, but not being familiar with the
> > THM425 trans, I bit my tongue. Sure enough, a few months later GMCMM
> > published a letter from Robert E. Annis, "Retired Chief Engineer,
> > Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors Corporation" stating that "High
> > line pressure does not position the regulator valve such that flow to
> > the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> > Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read Mr.
> > Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than
> > him!
>
> Well Rick, you've forced a confession out of me. I procrastinated on my
> GMCMM renewal and missed the 12/97 issue. I have ordered the backissue
> and promise to write "mea culpa" fifty times once I have a chance to
> read Mr. Annis' letter.
>
> Since you have experience in this area, do you have any advice for
> prolonging the life of the THM425?
>
> Also, I'm curious if you have an opinion about the article "How I Almost
> Trashed My Engine" in the 10/97 issue where it refers to "bulging"
> torque converters damaging the thrust bearing surface of the
> crankshaft. First I've ever heard of that.
>
> > PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
>
> And we're definitely glad to have you here.
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:05:52 EST
> From: CHill113
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> I too had a problem of the generator not making AC after an overhaul. The
> gurus suggested many things, including the rectifier etc etc. Nothing worked.
> Finally necessity overcame pride and my mechanic called Onan. Here is what
> they said. There is a (phonetic spelling) Thyactor between the engine and the
> generator. Sometimes when a unit has been worked on, this device fails to
> respond. The cure was to jump F 1+ to F 2- and hit with 12V for about three
> seconds. Then jump F 1- to F 2+ and hit again with12V for about 3 seconds. It
> did the trick and it puts out better than ever. Hope this helps.
>
> Justin Hill
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:31:45 +0000
> From: John Szalay
> Subject: Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> >T but some of these coaches still have the
> >original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> >engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> >"pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> >resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> >way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> >might be a good idea.
> >
> >Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> >of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
> >
> >
>
> Just bought a set of High pressure braided oil cooler lines that
> a gentleman here in Louisville (GMC owner) is producing. He made
> them with an extra extension section that moves the braided section
> away from the manifold, thereby reducing the heat affected area
> of the hose. Should reduce the possiblity of hose failure.
> Very professional design...
>
>
> John & Brenda Szalay
> Louisville Ky
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:11:17 EST
> From: davegreenberg1 (david l greenberg)
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> I can't add anything intelligent to this topic, but am compelled to say
> that after 6 tranny rebuilds (on 563k miles) you would think I knew
> something about them (but don't)
>
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> 200 Macfarlane Drive
> Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
>
> >Patrick,
> >I hate to disagree in my first post to the list, but the article about
> > heavy
> >throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in error. As a
> >burned-out
> >Master Technician myself, I thought something was fishy when I read
> >rhat
> >article, but not being familiar with the THM425 trans, I bit my
> >tongue. Sure
> >enough, a few months later GMCMM published a letter from Robert E.
> >Annis,
> >"Retired Chief Engineer, Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors
> >Corporation"
> >stating that "High line pressure does not position the regulator valve
> >such
> >that flow to the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> > Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read
> >Mr.
> >Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than
> >him!
> >
> >PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
> >
> >Rick Staples, Louisville, Colorado
> >75 Eleganza 26'
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:17:50 -0500
> From: 9675.0203
> Subject: Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> >
> > >T but some of these coaches still have the
> > >original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> > >engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> > >"pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> > >resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> > >way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> > >might be a good idea.
> > >
> > >Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> > >of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Just bought a set of High pressure braided oil cooler lines that
> > a gentleman here in Louisville (GMC owner) is producing. He made
> > them with an extra extension section that moves the braided section
> > away from the manifold, thereby reducing the heat affected area
> > of the hose. Should reduce the possiblity of hose failure.
> > Very professional design...
> >
> >
> > John & Brenda Szalay
> > Louisville Ky
> >
> > .
> - ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> Who? Where? How Much?
>
> Hr in Indy
> 9675.0203
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:43:35 -0500
> From: searlecj (Clark Searle)
> Subject: Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> As to multi-port fuel injection, Clarence Buskirk has
> retrofit some engines, including his own with multi-port
> injection. When asked, he said he put the system together,
> as opposed to someone's kit. You might want to ask him
> about it at 810-648-3963.
>
> Clark
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:31:01 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: Great List!
>
> In a message dated 98-01-14 12:56:25 EST, you write:
>
> credit for the quality of this list. It ain't me guys. All I do is the
> technical stuff that keeps the electrons moving. You guys make this
> list great!
>
> OK, enough mushy stuff!
> Patrick >>
>
> Patrick
>
> I think we should set the record straight------you did this for us. None
> of us did this-------so you should get the credit. Patrick had you not
> started this we would not have a place to go and talk about our GMCs.
> Take a little credit Patrick! You made it possible for us to help each
> other. I dont see the other people who make big bucks off us doing this.
> So I will say it in public--------THANKS PATRICK!
>
> Take Care
> Arch
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of GMC Motorhome Digest V1 #70
> **********************************
> GMC Motorhome Digest Wednesday, January 14 1998 Volume 01 : Number 070
>
> In this issue of the GMC Motorhome List Digest:
>
> GMC: Wheels
> GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: Wheels
> Re: GMC: GMC Registry
> Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> GMC: RE: Engine Accessibility
> Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> GMC: Great List!
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
> Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
> Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
> Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
> Re: GMC: Great List!
>
> To post to the GMC Motorhome List, send
> email to gmcmotorhome
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:53:37 -0500
> From: searlecj (Clark Searle)
> Subject: GMC: Wheels
>
> When I switched to Alcoa wheels, I would up with a surplus
> set of six steel 16.5" wheels- radial type. If anyone is
> interested, phone is 517-772-1864.
>
> Clark Searle
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:52:37 -0800
> From: prismz
> Subject: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> The responses to the oil pressure question raised by Mr. Edelbach have
> been interesting, but my experience and my mechanic (whom I trust) tell
> me that it's more important that the oil pressure being shown on the
> gauge at all readings be consistent: that is, steady at any given
> engine r.p.m. These gauges are all "approximate" in any event; no real
> values can be assumed by the markings on the face of the gauge itself.
>
> I get quite a chuckle out of those that propose to do the Cadillac 500
> cu.in. engine swap. I recall a story a couple of years ago in one of
> the "mainstream" automotive magazines (my best recollection is that it
> was Car and Driver, but I might be wrong...) about an enthusiast that
> had done exactly the swap that's been proposed.
>
> I remember pictures of the front wheels spinning, with great clouds of
> smoke being produced; this certainly seconds the motion of those
> responding to the suggestion that it's important to keep in mind that
> you have to get that power to the ground somehow!
>
> I have also seen a couple of (non-GMC-motorhome related) over the years
> addressing the busisness of swapping a 454 for the 455. The articles
> refer to a difference in the overall physical "envelope" of the engine
> and I, for one, would be most concerned that the present flat floor
> between the front seats might have to be modified if th e 454 is in fact
> taller overall. This is in addition to the work required that Patrick
> Flowers details in his response, and as he points out, is no small
> effort.
>
> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it, and
> look forward to the future!
>
> Bill Marx
> '76 Eleganza II
> Livingston, Texas (presently in Seattle, Washington - brrr!)
> billmarx
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:13:43 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 22:54:47 EST, you write:
>
> addressing the busisness of swapping a 454 for the 455. The articles
> refer to a difference in the overall physical "envelope" of the engine
> and I, for one, would be most concerned that the present flat floor
> between the front seats might have to be modified if th e 454 is in fact
> taller overall. This is in addition to the work required that Patrick
> Flowers details in his response, and as he points out, is no small
> effort.
>
> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it, and
> look forward to the future! >>
>
> Bill
>
> I could not agree with you more. I love this place.
>
> I too have enjoyed the comments about engine swaps--both ways. The way
> I see it I have a 455-------now what? Where can I get multi-port fuel
> injection?
> Sorry but thats what I want to do. It may be like my desire for SS brake lines
> but what the heck. I have tillted at bigger windmills. Keep it up folks.
> Build it and they will come.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:17:40 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wheels
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 21:56:19 EST, you write:
>
> When I switched to Alcoa wheels, I would up with a surplus
> set of six steel 16.5" wheels- radial type. If anyone is
> interested, phone is 517-772-1864.
> >>
>
> Clark
>
> Me too. Would hate to see them become fire rings.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:26:44 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: GMC Registry
>
> In a message dated 98-01-13 16:03:50 EST, you write:
>
> According to my mechanical guru, Alex Sirum, ball joints are usually
> replaced by 80k miles. That is how he tells if they have been replaced
> and if the coach odometer has been around once or not.
>
> Original ball joints were rivited and replacements are bolted.
> >>
>
> David
>
> Thanks for the reply. My question is which ball joint is the strongest?
> Which can be greased? Anyone know which one lasts the longest?
> Thanks all for being here and helping.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
> Gcbr
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:18:27 EST
> From: davegreenberg1 (david l greenberg)
> Subject: Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
>
> Phil, the shop that does my GMC work removes the engine thru the door on
> some kind of track or rail he has made. I suppose, however, if the entire
> drive train is being removed it might drop out of the bottom without
> affecting the suspension.
>
> The engine exit the door without disrupting the MH but I would imagine
> the major engine components are removed first. others can probably tell
> you how it is done.
>
> I have your Canyonlands in the Registry.
>
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> 200 Macfarlane Drive
> Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
>
> >Hi folks,
> >
> > I just bought a 1973 Canyonlands with 79,000 original miles from
> >the
> >original owner and it appears to be running very well. But as I look
> >at
> >the engine, my question is what is the easiest way to get it pulled?
> >Down the bottom or out the door? To get it out the bottom, it seems
> >like
> >it would require one heck of an angle to jack up the front for
> >clearance. Out the door appears tight and maybe would require
> >stripping
> >to the bare block first? Some people on the list are talking about
> >installing high volume oil pumps and the like but how in the heck do
> >you
> >drop that oil pan with the trans covering access to the pan. I will be
> >purchasing the shop manual (s) soon which might help. By the way, does
> >anyone have a set of manuals to cover the 73? Don't need the
> >supplemental books which cover later years. If so, please give me a
> >call
> >or drop an E line and let me know what you want for them.
> >
> > Thanks, Phil Swanson
> > 1750 South Point
> >Dr.
> > Bonita, Ca. 91902
> >
> > (619) 421-7276
> > Phil
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:33:16 -0500
> From: Greg_Wales (Greg Wales)
> Subject: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> All:
> I have a 1976 GMC Palm Beach I bought in 1996 with 54,000 actual miles. It is
> like new in many ways
> but the power drawer generator with 240 hours on it, while it starts and runs
> fine, it does not generate any power. I have an original manual but it tells me
> nothing about fuses, electrical checks etc. The 110v
> fuse box and everything associated with it appears to be o.k.(when plugged into
> shore power).
> Three questions: 1-How do you check generator output(at what location) and are
> there any fuses involved. 2-How do I tell if is a 4000 or 6000 watt model. 3-Is
> there an after-market direct replacement for this unit or should I have this one
> rebuilt by Onan.
> Thanks!
> Greg Wales/Fairfax,Virginia.
>
> P.S. To the GMC MH Registry: I will send info on this and another GMC-MH I have
> owned at a time in the future.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:23:43 -0500
> From: 9675.0203
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> >
> > All:
> > I have a 1976 GMC Palm Beach I bought in 1996 with 54,000 actual miles. It is
> > like new in many ways
> > but the power drawer generator with 240 hours on it, while it starts and runs
> > fine, it does not generate any power.
> > Thanks!
> > Greg Wales/Fairfax,Virginia.
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Greg,
>
> Sounds like the Bridge Rectififer in the gen set is bad. These can go
> bad if the gen set is shut down with a load on it. It has no effect on
> the running of the gen set, it just won't generate 120 volts AC. New
> rectifier is part # 707164 and cost more than $26.00 2 years ago
> (Cinnabar). The above is from Wes Caughlan's (Cinnanbar) article on
> this subject in Cinnabar's newsletter - #10 - December, 1996. Other
> data is included in the article.
>
> Hr In Indy
> 9675.0203
> =======================================================================
>
> ======================================================================
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:44:35 -0500
> From: "Bartz, Paul"
> Subject: GMC: RE: Engine Accessibility
>
> Phil:
>
> One method I know several people have used is to remove the sub-frame,
> which the engine resides on, by first disconnecting everything and then
> with the coach elevated, rolling the sub-frame and all out from under.
> They claim it is much quicker to do it that way. Would be glad to
> provide individual name (he lives in Louisville KY), etc., if
> interested.
>
> Haven't heard of anyone needing other than the original type oil pump.
>
> Shop/parts manuals are available from Cinnabar in Sandusky MI. Wes
> Coughlin is the owner and I understand he resides just North of you in
> the Laguna Hills area, I believe. His e-mail address is gmcmh
> if interested.
>
> Paul Bartz, Kalamazoo MI
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Phil Swanson [SMTP
hil]> > Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 9:43 PM
> > To: gmcmotorhome
> > Subject: GMC: Engine Accessibility
> >
> > Hi folks,
> >
> > I just bought a 1973 Canyonlands with 79,000 original miles from
> > the original owner and it appears to be running very well. But as I
> > look at the engine, my question is what is the easiest way to get it
> > pulled? Down the bottom or out the door? To get it out the bottom,
> > it seems like it would require one heck of an angle to jack up the
> > front for clearance. Out the door appears tight and maybe would
> > require stripping to the bare block first? Some people on the list
> > are talking about installing high volume oil pumps and the like but
> > how in the heck do you drop that oil pan with the trans covering
> > access to the pan. I will be purchasing the shop manual (s) soon
> > which might help. By the way, does anyone have a set of manuals to
> > cover the 73? Don't need the supplemental books which cover later
> > years. If so, please give me a call or drop an E line and let me know
> > what you want for them.
> >
> > Thanks, Phil Swanson
> > 1750 South Point
> > Dr.
> > Bonita, Ca. 91902
> >
> > (619) 421-7276
> > Phil
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:56:27 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Engine Accessibility
>
> >
> > But as I look at the engine, my question is what is the easiest way
> > to get it pulled? Down the bottom or out the door?
>
> I know one owner whose mechanic removed one windshield and hoisted the
> engine out thru the opening. BTW, the mechanic wouldn't take
> responsibility for the glass - go figure.
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:11:26 EST
> From: ShadowNo1
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> Greg,
>
> I have a 78 Eleganza and was having trouble with my generator, I found an Onan
> Shop in my area (look in phone book), they are quite common as I live in
> Naples, FL and we have one.
>
> He only charged me $25 to inspect it, showed me the problem, and repaired it
> for about $300 (I needed the circuit board) I also chose to get a tuneup,
> plugs, filter, oil change, replaced hoses and carb rebuild) final total was
> $600 and it has worked great ever since.
>
> Also check the flexible fuel line behind the gen. Mine was real brittle and I
> replaced it just in time. That I did my self (REAL dirty job) for about $10.
>
> The 110v fuse box and everything associated with it appears to be o.k.(when
> plugged into shore power).
>
> Since shore power works, test the "plug" in the side access compartment (where
> you hook up water/elec). Get a voltage tester and see if you have voltage
> there.
> The plug is actually 2 circuits, 2 hot leads, 1 return and 1 ground.
>
> 1-How do you check generator output(at what location) and are there any fuses
> involved. It's just like a dryer plug.
>
> O || || ||
> Check between each Hot and the Return for voltage. If nothing, then it may be
> as simple as a broken cable to gen or the gen itself. I'm not sure where best
> to check on gen. There is a trip-switch on top/rear of gen. It is on front of
> a small box.
>
> 2-How do I tell if is a 4000 or 6000 watt model.
> I believe all 26 footers can with a 6000. Mine is a 6000 and is painted green
> in color with a white 6000 painted on the front. The 4k was much smaller and
> came on the 23 foot models. I believe it was painted either brown or copper.
> Not sure.
>
> 3-Is there an after-market direct replacement for this unit or should I have
> this one
> rebuilt by Onan.
> There are replacements (not the same), actually much quieter and improved over
> std model. But they are expensive. Camping World has several from 3500-7000
> watts and priced from $2500 to over $5000! Ouch.
>
> I would have mine fixed if possible. In fact I did! I have put over 100 hours
> on it
> since repair.
>
> Mike Finnicum
> Naples, FL
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:15:01 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> The story about pulling the engine out by removing the windshield
> reminded me of two things.
>
> First is that this guy was pulling his engine because an oil cooler line
> had burst, seizing the engine. It was a shame too. He had just
> purchased the coach, a beautiful 75 or 76 Palm Beach with 45k original
> miles, in an estate sale and the motor was tight(not even an oil leak).
>
> The oil line hazard is probably one of the least understood maintenance
> concerns with these machines. You wouldn't consider driving with 20
> year old radiator hoses, but some of these coaches still have the
> original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> "pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> might be a good idea.
>
> Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:41:26 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> As promised yesterday, I dug out the GMCMM "library" and looked for the
> transmission article. It wasn't easy to find because the section I
> recalled was in an article titled "Hey Mister, Your Motorhome Is On
> Fire!!!" (8/97).
>
> According to this article, transmission oil overflow may be the number
> one cause of fire in GMC's. When you drive the coach hard(accelerator
> pedal more than halfway down), the trans pressure regulating valve moves
> toward the bottom of its travel. When it reaches the bottom, it cuts
> off flow to the trans cooler and torque converter. In auto
> applications, this is usually a temporary situation, but in motorhomes,
> if you don't drive carefully, it can be an extended condition. The lack
> of cooling causes the fluid to expand, and if the trans is full, fluid
> may actually spew out the vent and filler neck. The author recommends
> keeping fluid level at the "ADD" mark and driving carefully to avoid
> this.
>
> So, it's not so much a transmission problem as it is a driving problem.
> Many of us(I'm guilty too) push our coaches too hard, thinking "since
> they'll go that fast, why not?" I'm not sure if there is a "fix" for
> this or not. I'm sure the THM400 trans used in truck app's must deal
> with this somehow.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:52:55 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: GMC: Great List!
>
> >
> > In a message dated 98-01-13 22:54:47 EST, you write:
> >
> >> This mailing list is the greatest! I've been enjoying all of it,
> >> and look forward to the future! >>
> >
> > I could not agree with you more. I love this place.
>
> It's really gratifying to me to see how the list is maturing. We're
> getting to the point that there's a lot of GMC experience represented
> here. In the beginning(hey, that was just back in September), it was
> tough to get direct answers for some newbie questions. These days,
> we're getting some great dialogue on some tough issues.
>
> Now, let me set the record straight. Often, I get emails giving me
> credit for the quality of this list. It ain't me guys. All I do is the
> technical stuff that keeps the electrons moving. You guys make this
> list great!
>
> OK, enough mushy stuff!
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:31:19 EST
> From: RickStapls
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> Patrick,
> I hate to disagree in my first post to the list, but the article about heavy
> throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in error. As a burned-out
> Master Technician myself, I thought something was fishy when I read rhat
> article, but not being familiar with the THM425 trans, I bit my tongue. Sure
> enough, a few months later GMCMM published a letter from Robert E. Annis,
> "Retired Chief Engineer, Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors Corporation"
> stating that "High line pressure does not position the regulator valve such
> that flow to the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read Mr.
> Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than him!
>
> PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
>
> Rick Staples, Louisville, Colorado
> 75 Eleganza 26'
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:57:15 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> >
> > Patrick,
> > I hate to disagree in my first post to the list,
>
> Never apologize for telling the truth!
>
> > but the article
> > about heavy throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in
> > error. As a burned-out Master Technician myself, I thought something
> > was fishy when I read rhat article, but not being familiar with the
> > THM425 trans, I bit my tongue. Sure enough, a few months later GMCMM
> > published a letter from Robert E. Annis, "Retired Chief Engineer,
> > Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors Corporation" stating that "High
> > line pressure does not position the regulator valve such that flow to
> > the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> > Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read Mr.
> > Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than
> > him!
>
> Well Rick, you've forced a confession out of me. I procrastinated on my
> GMCMM renewal and missed the 12/97 issue. I have ordered the backissue
> and promise to write "mea culpa" fifty times once I have a chance to
> read Mr. Annis' letter.
>
> Since you have experience in this area, do you have any advice for
> prolonging the life of the THM425?
>
> Also, I'm curious if you have an opinion about the article "How I Almost
> Trashed My Engine" in the 10/97 issue where it refers to "bulging"
> torque converters damaging the thrust bearing surface of the
> crankshaft. First I've ever heard of that.
>
> > PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
>
> And we're definitely glad to have you here.
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:05:52 EST
> From: CHill113
> Subject: Re: GMC: Power Drawer Generator
>
> I too had a problem of the generator not making AC after an overhaul. The
> gurus suggested many things, including the rectifier etc etc. Nothing worked.
> Finally necessity overcame pride and my mechanic called Onan. Here is what
> they said. There is a (phonetic spelling) Thyactor between the engine and the
> generator. Sometimes when a unit has been worked on, this device fails to
> respond. The cure was to jump F 1+ to F 2- and hit with 12V for about three
> seconds. Then jump F 1- to F 2+ and hit again with12V for about 3 seconds. It
> did the trick and it puts out better than ever. Hope this helps.
>
> Justin Hill
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:31:45 +0000
> From: John Szalay
> Subject: Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> >T but some of these coaches still have the
> >original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> >engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> >"pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> >resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> >way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> >might be a good idea.
> >
> >Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> >of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
> >
> >
>
> Just bought a set of High pressure braided oil cooler lines that
> a gentleman here in Louisville (GMC owner) is producing. He made
> them with an extra extension section that moves the braided section
> away from the manifold, thereby reducing the heat affected area
> of the hose. Should reduce the possiblity of hose failure.
> Very professional design...
>
>
> John & Brenda Szalay
> Louisville Ky
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:11:17 EST
> From: davegreenberg1 (david l greenberg)
> Subject: Re: GMC: Transmission "Durability"
>
> I can't add anything intelligent to this topic, but am compelled to say
> that after 6 tranny rebuilds (on 563k miles) you would think I knew
> something about them (but don't)
>
> David Lee Greenberg
> GMC Motorhome Registry
> 200 Macfarlane Drive
> Delray Beach, FL 33483-6829
>
> >Patrick,
> >I hate to disagree in my first post to the list, but the article about
> > heavy
> >throttle running cutting off the trans, cooler was in error. As a
> >burned-out
> >Master Technician myself, I thought something was fishy when I read
> >rhat
> >article, but not being familiar with the THM425 trans, I bit my
> >tongue. Sure
> >enough, a few months later GMCMM published a letter from Robert E.
> >Annis,
> >"Retired Chief Engineer, Hydra-Matic Division, General Motors
> >Corporation"
> >stating that "High line pressure does not position the regulator valve
> >such
> >that flow to the torque converter ... is cut off..."
> > Suggest anyone interested get the 12/97 edition of GMCMM and read
> >Mr.
> >Annis' letter on pp. 6-7. You can't get much more authoritattive than
> >him!
> >
> >PS Glad I joined, the list is great!
> >
> >Rick Staples, Louisville, Colorado
> >75 Eleganza 26'
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:17:50 -0500
> From: 9675.0203
> Subject: Re: GMC: Oil Cooler Lines
>
> >
> > >T but some of these coaches still have the
> > >original oil cooler lines. Pop one and the best outcome is a blown
> > >engine(although I have heard of people that stopped when they heard the
> > >"pop" and saved their engine, but I've never met one yet) with a
> > >resulting fire as the worst possibility. Many GMC's have been lost this
> > >way. Some GMC guru's recommend replacing the hoses every three years -
> > >might be a good idea.
> > >
> > >Oh yeah, the second thing I rememebered was to call Cinnabar for a set
> > >of oil hoses. 'Bout $88 for the pair.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Just bought a set of High pressure braided oil cooler lines that
> > a gentleman here in Louisville (GMC owner) is producing. He made
> > them with an extra extension section that moves the braided section
> > away from the manifold, thereby reducing the heat affected area
> > of the hose. Should reduce the possiblity of hose failure.
> > Very professional design...
> >
> >
> > John & Brenda Szalay
> > Louisville Ky
> >
> > .
> - ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> John,
>
> Who? Where? How Much?
>
> Hr in Indy
> 9675.0203
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:43:35 -0500
> From: searlecj (Clark Searle)
> Subject: Re: GMC: 455 Oil pressure, and the 500 cube Cadillac swap...
>
> As to multi-port fuel injection, Clarence Buskirk has
> retrofit some engines, including his own with multi-port
> injection. When asked, he said he put the system together,
> as opposed to someone's kit. You might want to ask him
> about it at 810-648-3963.
>
> Clark
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:31:01 EST
> From: Gcbr
> Subject: Re: GMC: Great List!
>
> In a message dated 98-01-14 12:56:25 EST, you write:
>
> credit for the quality of this list. It ain't me guys. All I do is the
> technical stuff that keeps the electrons moving. You guys make this
> list great!
>
> OK, enough mushy stuff!
> Patrick >>
>
> Patrick
>
> I think we should set the record straight------you did this for us. None
> of us did this-------so you should get the credit. Patrick had you not
> started this we would not have a place to go and talk about our GMCs.
> Take a little credit Patrick! You made it possible for us to help each
> other. I dont see the other people who make big bucks off us doing this.
> So I will say it in public--------THANKS PATRICK!
>
> Take Care
> Arch
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of GMC Motorhome Digest V1 #70
> **********************************
