>
> GMC Motorhome Digest Sunday, March 22 1998 Volume 01 : Number 122
>
> In this issue of the GMC Motorhome List Digest:
>
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
> GMC: digest
> Re: GMC: digest
> Re: GMC: Wheels and Brakes
> [Fwd: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs]
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> GMC: Tire sizes and gas milage
> GMC: Re: Tire sizes and gas milage
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS Scott
>
> To post to the GMC Motorhome List, send
> email to gmcmotorhome
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 10:34:06 -0600
> From: Rich and Dottie Major
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
>
> Pennzoil "10 Minute" oil change establishments have a transmission service
> that completely pumps out all the old trans fluid including the torque
> converter then pumps in new fluid. I had it done on my 78 Kingsley recently.
> The cost is about $90. I did not have the pan dropped or the filter changed
> this time because I did that about a year ago. The cost is a bit more if you
> drop the pan and change the filter. The price is a bit high, but it's worth
> it compared to the alternative.
>
> Rich Major
> 78 Kingsley
>
>
> > Does any one have info on draining the all trans fluid, not just the 4 qts
> > when you pull the pan?
> > Gary Sharp how much and where etc. for your 73 ? Arden
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 10:43:00 -0600
> From: Jeffry
> Subject: GMC: digest
>
> can somone please tell me how to switch to the digest mode ?
>
> thanks very much
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 11:42:27 -0600 (CST)
> From: hdavis
> Subject: Re: GMC: digest
>
> >
> >can somone please tell me how to switch to the digest mode ?
> >
> >
>
> Send e-mail to Majordomo
> with the following in the body of the message
>
> subscribe gmcmotorhome-d jeffry
>
> You'll also need to unsubscribe from gmcmotorhome. Look at the original
> message you got from MAJORDOMO to see how to unsubscribe from the realtime
> list.
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (408) 462-5198
> http:\\www.henry-davis.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:53:33 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wheels and Brakes
>
> >
> > I want to thank those that responded on the issue of brakes. Allot of
> > good information there that many of us can use. I got in touch with
> > Ray Curtis of Eaton GMC outside of Denver and he is going to fix me
> > up with the larger calipers and other parts needed.
>
> Phil, Ray's a great guy to work with if you're keeping the rear drum
> brakes. I've been following up some information that GMCWS posted to
> their web site on the rear disk brake conversion. TSM will sell you the
> parts to convert your rear axles to disks for around $600 per axle(less
> if you delete the parking brake). BTW, I've got some of the original 2"
> wide asbestos(no longer available due to EPA nonsense) brake shoes that
> I'll probably be selling if you're interested.
>
> > I was thinking of going the Alcoa route on the wheels. They sure are
> > nice. I need wheels anyway because I have the pre-radial type rims
> > with radial tires, an accident waiting to happen. The other day
> > however, I saw a magazine article from an outfit called Fast Times
> > Automotive out of Kansas City , Kansas advertising Cragar "Dually
> > Wheels" for trucks. One of the styles looks just like the Alcoa, i.e.
> > the one with the eight holes equal distant around the circumference.
> > Only $680 a set of 4. A whole lot less per wheel than the Alcoa. It
> > also included the centers. They are called Series 90 "Mod" wheels and
> > have a 3,000 lb. rating and are 16" X 6" and have our same bolt
> > pattern of 61/2" centers X 8 lugs.
> > They have different part numbers for the front and back which is
> > probably for the offset spacing. If we could use these even with a
> > spacer if necessary, it would save allot of folks some bucks. I know
> > that the Alcoas were made especially for the motorhome but wouldn't
> > these Cragars work? Does anyone know?
> > I can probably get the specs on the offset on the Cragars if it would
> > help. They look every bit as nice as the Alcoas.
>
> Based on previous experience with Cragars, I don't think I'd recommend
> them for motorhome use. American also makes a wheel that will bolt up,
> but the problem is how they carry the load. The Alcoa and Accuride rims
> carry much of the load on the center hole(notice how tightly it fits
> against the circular boss on the hub). Remember, we're carrying a lot
> more weight per rim than a dually pickup.
>
> I'd stick with Alcoas.
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:56:26 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: [Fwd: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs]
>
> Received: from send1a.yahoomail.com [205.180.60.22]
> by station1.firehouse.net with smtp (Exim 1.82 #3)
> id 0yGUgL-0001mz-00; Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:15:54 -0500
> Message-ID:
> Received: from [166.49.159.1] by send1a; Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:14:55 PST
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:14:55 -0800 (PST)
> From: herm beeck
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs
> To: gmcmotorhome
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Gary
> Walter Walace's son Bob took over his shop.
> As I remember, you loosen the spindle nut, then pump a couple of
> strokes with your grease gun into the zert-fitting. Re-torque your
> spindle nut and you'r done.
> Herm
>
> >
> > On my 73 Canyon Lands (for sale)
> > I have Wallace front bearings - I would like to
> > know the procedure to grease the bearing?
> >
> > I guess it's different with an extra bearing in the center....
> >
> > Thanks gary
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free #yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:29:53 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >
> > I did see some email traffic re a hitch but didn't see anything
> > conclusive as to where to get.
> >
> > I am looking for a hitch that does not protrude behind or below, i.e.
> > when not used I'd like it to be out of sight and not interfere.
> >
>
>
> > Back to the hitch... I don't want to have to do any 'welding'. Is it
> > possible to get a 'bolt-on' and not sacrifice or rather compromise
> > safety etc.
>
> I found two options for bolt-on receiver hitches. Ray Curtis at Eaton
> RV sells a bolt-on under bumper hitch for $225 plus shipping. Paul
> Bennetts sells a bolt-on through bumper hitch(requires notching the
> bumper) for $290 plus shipping. I'm going with the through bumper
> version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailtoatri63
>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 18:32:47 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >
>
> > I'm going with the through bumper
> >version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.
> >
>
> I think I'll do the same. Guess it'll mean moving the sewer outlet,
> something I've been trying to avoid. Tried calling Paul Bennett today but no
> answer (Thank you for the phone#, Paul Bartz). Hopefully I can get it
> organized next week and then I'll have to dive into what towbar might
> suit/fit my Mazda Protoge (standard shift).
>
> Heinz
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:58:37 EST
> From: CHill113
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet. Suggestion: You
> can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a straight piece
> of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case you have
> leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will keep you
> from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:35:58 -0800
> From: Henderson
> Subject: GMC: Tire sizes and gas milage
>
> Hi folks!
> Maybe someone can settle a "discussion" for me....
>
> If one puts a different size tire on the GMC coach (ie going to 16"), won't
> that impact gas milage calculations, given that the speedometer is calibrated
> on 16.5 ? Or is the tire circumference not related to a change in rim size?
>
> In my thinking, with a smaller tire and smaller circumference, the distance
> between Houston and LA just got longer, and the milage better !
>
> Anneke
> Houston
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:18:16 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: GMC: Re: Tire sizes and gas milage
>
> I had the same concern when I make the switch so the tire shop was kind
> enough to research. It turned out the the actual difference was zilch or so
> close that it wasn't enough to recalibrate my speedometer (digital), even
> though it would've been real easy to do.
>
> The rim is smaller, but the tire is taller = same distance on the road.
>
> Heinz
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
> >
> >In my thinking, with a smaller tire and smaller circumference, the distance
> >between Houston and LA just got longer, and the milage better !
> >
> >Anneke
> >Houston
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet. Suggestion:
> You
> >can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a straight
> piece
> >of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case you
> have
> >leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will keep
> you
> >from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>
> I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the original
> started to leak more than a bit
An emergency repair with goop and
> tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair it
> while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
> underneath.
>
> I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on it.
>
> Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
> stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>
> I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self contained
> pump-out.
>
> This is turning into another one of those typical projects, but it's
> fun.
>
> Heinz
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:31:55 -0811
> From: Scott Woodworth
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
>
> Arden,
>
> I've overhauled quite a few transmissions and here's the procedure I
> used many times with great results. If you have your factory GMC
> motorhome shop manual handy, you may refer to Figure 13 on Page 7-25.
>
> Step 1: Disconnect the lower transmission cooler line off the radiator
> and connect a 3/8" hose to it.
>
> Step 2: Place the other end of the hose in a large container and have
> someone start the engine while you're monitoring the fluid output. When
> the fluid stops flowing, stop the engine and fill the pan.
>
> Step 3: Start the engine again and watch for a fluid color change,
> which would indicate that all the old burnt fluid has been expelled.
> When the color turns red, shut the engine off and reconnect the line to
> the radiator.
>
> Note: If you wish to purge all the old fluid, then your connection
> point would be the driver's side transmission cooler line at the
> transmission end. If your cooler and lines are really contaminated, you
> can get a aerosol can of special transmission cooler flush from any
> major transmission parts jobber. The can has a plastic hose and a brass
> fitting that screws to the above mentioned cooler line. It's important
> to follow the directions exactly as stated on the can.
>
> Step 4: Pour 8 quarts of transmission fluid in. I highly recommend
> synthetic due to it's higher heat tolerance. Re-start the engine and
> _slowly_ fill the transmission to the lower end of the cross hash marked
> area on the dipstick. Total transmission fill is approximately 12
> quarts with a completely dry torque converter. The torque converter
> takes 2/3 of the fluid, so about 4 quarts remains in the pan.
>
> Step 5: Warm the transmission by driving for about 15 minutes then
> check the level again. Add fluid as necessary. Don't add all the way
> up to the "Full" mark. Just add until the fluid reaches the middle of
> the cross hash marked area. The fluid will expand as it gets hot
> eventually reaching the full mark.
>
> Note: Always check the fluid level while the engine is running. Torque
> converter drain back after shutdown will produce a false high reading.
>
> - -Scott Woodworth
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 10:00:24 -0800
> From: marilyn sniffen
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS Scott
>
> Thanks for the info. If I'm also changing the filter when in this process
> should I do this? Also is burnt fluid always a sign of bad news. The
> fellow I got my 73 from towed a boat in ruff terrain and used it for a
> launch vehical. Thanks again Scott. Arden
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of GMC Motorhome Digest V1 #122
> ***********************************
OK, Joe, here's a copy of one of the GMC MH newsgroup mailings and it
includes the steps for changing the trans fluid complelely.
PL
> GMC Motorhome Digest Sunday, March 22 1998 Volume 01 : Number 122
>
> In this issue of the GMC Motorhome List Digest:
>
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
> GMC: digest
> Re: GMC: digest
> Re: GMC: Wheels and Brakes
> [Fwd: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs]
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> GMC: Tire sizes and gas milage
> GMC: Re: Tire sizes and gas milage
> Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
> Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS Scott
>
> To post to the GMC Motorhome List, send
> email to gmcmotorhome
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 10:34:06 -0600
> From: Rich and Dottie Major
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
>
> Pennzoil "10 Minute" oil change establishments have a transmission service
> that completely pumps out all the old trans fluid including the torque
> converter then pumps in new fluid. I had it done on my 78 Kingsley recently.
> The cost is about $90. I did not have the pan dropped or the filter changed
> this time because I did that about a year ago. The cost is a bit more if you
> drop the pan and change the filter. The price is a bit high, but it's worth
> it compared to the alternative.
>
> Rich Major
> 78 Kingsley
>
>
> > Does any one have info on draining the all trans fluid, not just the 4 qts
> > when you pull the pan?
> > Gary Sharp how much and where etc. for your 73 ? Arden
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 10:43:00 -0600
> From: Jeffry
> Subject: GMC: digest
>
> can somone please tell me how to switch to the digest mode ?
>
> thanks very much
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 11:42:27 -0600 (CST)
> From: hdavis
> Subject: Re: GMC: digest
>
> >
> >can somone please tell me how to switch to the digest mode ?
> >
> >
>
> Send e-mail to Majordomo
> with the following in the body of the message
>
> subscribe gmcmotorhome-d jeffry
>
> You'll also need to unsubscribe from gmcmotorhome. Look at the original
> message you got from MAJORDOMO to see how to unsubscribe from the realtime
> list.
>
> Henry
>
> Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
> PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
> Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
> ph: (408) 462-5199 / full service marketing
> fax: (408) 462-5198
> http:\\www.henry-davis.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:53:33 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wheels and Brakes
>
> >
> > I want to thank those that responded on the issue of brakes. Allot of
> > good information there that many of us can use. I got in touch with
> > Ray Curtis of Eaton GMC outside of Denver and he is going to fix me
> > up with the larger calipers and other parts needed.
>
> Phil, Ray's a great guy to work with if you're keeping the rear drum
> brakes. I've been following up some information that GMCWS posted to
> their web site on the rear disk brake conversion. TSM will sell you the
> parts to convert your rear axles to disks for around $600 per axle(less
> if you delete the parking brake). BTW, I've got some of the original 2"
> wide asbestos(no longer available due to EPA nonsense) brake shoes that
> I'll probably be selling if you're interested.
>
> > I was thinking of going the Alcoa route on the wheels. They sure are
> > nice. I need wheels anyway because I have the pre-radial type rims
> > with radial tires, an accident waiting to happen. The other day
> > however, I saw a magazine article from an outfit called Fast Times
> > Automotive out of Kansas City , Kansas advertising Cragar "Dually
> > Wheels" for trucks. One of the styles looks just like the Alcoa, i.e.
> > the one with the eight holes equal distant around the circumference.
> > Only $680 a set of 4. A whole lot less per wheel than the Alcoa. It
> > also included the centers. They are called Series 90 "Mod" wheels and
> > have a 3,000 lb. rating and are 16" X 6" and have our same bolt
> > pattern of 61/2" centers X 8 lugs.
> > They have different part numbers for the front and back which is
> > probably for the offset spacing. If we could use these even with a
> > spacer if necessary, it would save allot of folks some bucks. I know
> > that the Alcoas were made especially for the motorhome but wouldn't
> > these Cragars work? Does anyone know?
> > I can probably get the specs on the offset on the Cragars if it would
> > help. They look every bit as nice as the Alcoas.
>
> Based on previous experience with Cragars, I don't think I'd recommend
> them for motorhome use. American also makes a wheel that will bolt up,
> but the problem is how they carry the load. The Alcoa and Accuride rims
> carry much of the load on the center hole(notice how tightly it fits
> against the circular boss on the hub). Remember, we're carrying a lot
> more weight per rim than a dually pickup.
>
> I'd stick with Alcoas.
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:56:26 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: [Fwd: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs]
>
> Received: from send1a.yahoomail.com [205.180.60.22]
> by station1.firehouse.net with smtp (Exim 1.82 #3)
> id 0yGUgL-0001mz-00; Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:15:54 -0500
> Message-ID:
> Received: from [166.49.159.1] by send1a; Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:14:55 PST
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:14:55 -0800 (PST)
> From: herm beeck
> Subject: Re: GMC: Wallace Hubs
> To: gmcmotorhome
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Gary
> Walter Walace's son Bob took over his shop.
> As I remember, you loosen the spindle nut, then pump a couple of
> strokes with your grease gun into the zert-fitting. Re-torque your
> spindle nut and you'r done.
> Herm
>
> >
> > On my 73 Canyon Lands (for sale)
> > I have Wallace front bearings - I would like to
> > know the procedure to grease the bearing?
> >
> > I guess it's different with an extra bearing in the center....
> >
> > Thanks gary
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free #yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:29:53 -0500
> From: Patrick Flowers
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >
> > I did see some email traffic re a hitch but didn't see anything
> > conclusive as to where to get.
> >
> > I am looking for a hitch that does not protrude behind or below, i.e.
> > when not used I'd like it to be out of sight and not interfere.
> >
>
>
> > Back to the hitch... I don't want to have to do any 'welding'. Is it
> > possible to get a 'bolt-on' and not sacrifice or rather compromise
> > safety etc.
>
> I found two options for bolt-on receiver hitches. Ray Curtis at Eaton
> RV sells a bolt-on under bumper hitch for $225 plus shipping. Paul
> Bennetts sells a bolt-on through bumper hitch(requires notching the
> bumper) for $290 plus shipping. I'm going with the through bumper
> version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.
>
> Patrick
> - --
> Patrick Flowers
> Mailto
atri63>
> The GMC Motorhome Page
> http://www.gmcmotorhome.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 18:32:47 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >
>
> > I'm going with the through bumper
> >version to avoid reducing rear ground clearance any further.
> >
>
> I think I'll do the same. Guess it'll mean moving the sewer outlet,
> something I've been trying to avoid. Tried calling Paul Bennett today but no
> answer (Thank you for the phone#, Paul Bartz). Hopefully I can get it
> organized next week and then I'll have to dive into what towbar might
> suit/fit my Mazda Protoge (standard shift).
>
> Heinz
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:58:37 EST
> From: CHill113
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet. Suggestion: You
> can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a straight piece
> of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case you have
> leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will keep you
> from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:35:58 -0800
> From: Henderson
> Subject: GMC: Tire sizes and gas milage
>
> Hi folks!
> Maybe someone can settle a "discussion" for me....
>
> If one puts a different size tire on the GMC coach (ie going to 16"), won't
> that impact gas milage calculations, given that the speedometer is calibrated
> on 16.5 ? Or is the tire circumference not related to a change in rim size?
>
> In my thinking, with a smaller tire and smaller circumference, the distance
> between Houston and LA just got longer, and the milage better !
>
> Anneke
> Houston
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:18:16 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: GMC: Re: Tire sizes and gas milage
>
> I had the same concern when I make the switch so the tire shop was kind
> enough to research. It turned out the the actual difference was zilch or so
> close that it wasn't enough to recalibrate my speedometer (digital), even
> though it would've been real easy to do.
>
> The rim is smaller, but the tire is taller = same distance on the road.
>
> Heinz
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
> >
> >In my thinking, with a smaller tire and smaller circumference, the distance
> >between Houston and LA just got longer, and the milage better !
> >
> >Anneke
> >Houston
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:27:53 -0800
> From: "Heinz Wittenbecher"
> Subject: Re: GMC: Am considering towing, looking for a hitch.
>
> >I notice your comment about having to move the sewer outlet. Suggestion:
> You
> >can cut if off a short ways back and glue on an elbow, (and a straight
> piece
> >of pipe) if you want to, then add a valve before the end cap. In case you
> have
> >leaking problems with the holding tank valve as so many do, this will keep
> you
> >from getting a "shoe full" when you dump!
>
> I already moved to a gatevalve on the end of the pipe when the original
> started to leak more than a bit
An emergency repair with goop and> tiestraps is still holding after 6 years or so. Had to to the repair it
> while flat on my back stradling a ditch to make anough room to crawl
> underneath.
>
> I'm not sure how the 'hinge' will work once the pipe has an elbow on it.
>
> Is anyone using the Thedford ( I think I spelled it right ) setup that
> stores hose inside or rather inside a selfcontained storage ?box?.
>
> I suppose another alternative is to change the setup to a self contained
> pump-out.
>
> This is turning into another one of those typical projects
, but it's> fun.
>
> Heinz
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 22:31:55 -0811
> From: Scott Woodworth
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS and GARY SHARP
>
> Arden,
>
> I've overhauled quite a few transmissions and here's the procedure I
> used many times with great results. If you have your factory GMC
> motorhome shop manual handy, you may refer to Figure 13 on Page 7-25.
>
> Step 1: Disconnect the lower transmission cooler line off the radiator
> and connect a 3/8" hose to it.
>
> Step 2: Place the other end of the hose in a large container and have
> someone start the engine while you're monitoring the fluid output. When
> the fluid stops flowing, stop the engine and fill the pan.
>
> Step 3: Start the engine again and watch for a fluid color change,
> which would indicate that all the old burnt fluid has been expelled.
> When the color turns red, shut the engine off and reconnect the line to
> the radiator.
>
> Note: If you wish to purge all the old fluid, then your connection
> point would be the driver's side transmission cooler line at the
> transmission end. If your cooler and lines are really contaminated, you
> can get a aerosol can of special transmission cooler flush from any
> major transmission parts jobber. The can has a plastic hose and a brass
> fitting that screws to the above mentioned cooler line. It's important
> to follow the directions exactly as stated on the can.
>
> Step 4: Pour 8 quarts of transmission fluid in. I highly recommend
> synthetic due to it's higher heat tolerance. Re-start the engine and
> _slowly_ fill the transmission to the lower end of the cross hash marked
> area on the dipstick. Total transmission fill is approximately 12
> quarts with a completely dry torque converter. The torque converter
> takes 2/3 of the fluid, so about 4 quarts remains in the pan.
>
> Step 5: Warm the transmission by driving for about 15 minutes then
> check the level again. Add fluid as necessary. Don't add all the way
> up to the "Full" mark. Just add until the fluid reaches the middle of
> the cross hash marked area. The fluid will expand as it gets hot
> eventually reaching the full mark.
>
> Note: Always check the fluid level while the engine is running. Torque
> converter drain back after shutdown will produce a false high reading.
>
> - -Scott Woodworth
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 10:00:24 -0800
> From: marilyn sniffen
> Subject: Re: GMC: Re: GMC TRANS Scott
>
> Thanks for the info. If I'm also changing the filter when in this process
> should I do this? Also is burnt fluid always a sign of bad news. The
> fellow I got my 73 from towed a boat in ruff terrain and used it for a
> launch vehical. Thanks again Scott. Arden
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of GMC Motorhome Digest V1 #122
> ***********************************
OK, Joe, here's a copy of one of the GMC MH newsgroup mailings and it
includes the steps for changing the trans fluid complelely.
PL
