Getting road ready - Replacing the old rubber

william weyrowski

New member
Oct 5, 2018
8
0
0
Looking to replace some old rubber in my 2 month old baby.

First, I am going through the gas lines and replacing everything. I found
some severe soft spots so I figured that should be the very next thing on
my list. I have ordered a couple of rolls of 1/4 and 3/8 hose so in the
next week or so I will start laying things out. My plan is to add an
electric pump in line, consisting of running the lines from the tanks, to
in line filters, then to the fuel selector switch and then to an electric
pump, then to the front.

As for the fuel tank sending unit, is there an actual need to replace this,
or will a little clean up and new filter sack suffice. My understanding is
that no one ever gets a true reading anyways, so its not a big concern of
mine.

Next, I would like to replace all of the rubber bushings in the front.
Does anybody have part numbers for these..or is there a convenient kit that
someone has put together to help tackle the entire front end?

Any advice is greatly welcomed.

--
William D. Weyrowski
Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
73 - 26' Sequoia
 
William,
Do you know approximatly how many feet of the 3 size hoses to get.
Call me and I'll give you the info, along with the front end.
I'l save you time.

On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 9:42 AM william weyrowski
wrote:

> Looking to replace some old rubber in my 2 month old baby.
>
> First, I am going through the gas lines and replacing everything. I found
> some severe soft spots so I figured that should be the very next thing on
> my list. I have ordered a couple of rolls of 1/4 and 3/8 hose so in the
> next week or so I will start laying things out. My plan is to add an
> electric pump in line, consisting of running the lines from the tanks, to
> in line filters, then to the fuel selector switch and then to an electric
> pump, then to the front.
>
> As for the fuel tank sending unit, is there an actual need to replace this,
> or will a little clean up and new filter sack suffice. My understanding is
> that no one ever gets a true reading anyways, so its not a big concern of
> mine.
>
> Next, I would like to replace all of the rubber bushings in the front.
> Does anybody have part numbers for these..or is there a convenient kit that
> someone has put together to help tackle the entire front end?
>
> Any advice is greatly welcomed.
>
> --
> William D. Weyrowski
> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
> 73 - 26' Sequoia
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
William,

You're wise to replace those old rubber lines. Personally, I'd replace as
much of them as possible with metal lines. Just as important: Unless the
tank selector valve is new, I'd replace it with TWO electric pumps, one for
each tank. That gives you tank, filter, and pump redundancy while
eliminating that potentially troublesome valve (they can stick in one
position or, worse, between positions, admitting air). The cost vs
replacing the valve should be insignificant.

JWID,

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 12:42 PM william weyrowski
wrote:

> Looking to replace some old rubber in my 2 month old baby.
>
> First, I am going through the gas lines and replacing everything. I found
> some severe soft spots so I figured that should be the very next thing on
> my list. I have ordered a couple of rolls of 1/4 and 3/8 hose so in the
> next week or so I will start laying things out. My plan is to add an
> electric pump in line, consisting of running the lines from the tanks, to
> in line filters, then to the fuel selector switch and then to an electric
> pump, then to the front.
>
> As for the fuel tank sending unit, is there an actual need to replace this,
> or will a little clean up and new filter sack suffice. My understanding is
> that no one ever gets a true reading anyways, so its not a big concern of
> mine.
>
> Next, I would like to replace all of the rubber bushings in the front.
> Does anybody have part numbers for these..or is there a convenient kit that
> someone has put together to help tackle the entire front end?
>
> Any advice is greatly welcomed.
>
> --
> William D. Weyrowski
> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
> 73 - 26' Sequoia
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
William,

Make sure that you use an SAE 30R9 fuel hose in all rubber fuel line replacement. IF you use an SAE 30R7 hose you will be replacing it again in 5 years or less. It will get hard and brittle with todays ethanol laced fuels. The R9 hose is a barrier type hose with a inner liner that is pretty much impervious to Ethanol laced fuels.

I use Gates Barricade hose and it is available in 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8” and 1/2”.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-1-4-inch-hose/27313/4349937?q=27313&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/crankcase-breather-hose-14015/df8b1723839a/gates-barricade-5-16-inch-hose/27314/4349938?q=27314&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-3-8-inch-hose/27315/4349939?q=27315&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-1-2-inch-hose/27316/4349940?q=27316&pos=0

I get mine from Oreilly’s because they stock it. The newer manufactured hoses have a black color liner. The Goodyear hoses originally came with a blue colored liner. Just be sure to ask for the SAE 30R9 hose.

Gates also does make a SAE R10 Submersible hose as well and it is very expensive as you only really need it to replace any hose that you might have inside the fuel tank if you have in tank pumps.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-3-8-inch-hose/27097/4330538?q=27097&pos=0

My first choice would be the Gates hose and the Goodyear SAE 30R9 hose would also be a good. The SAE 30R9 hose is rated for fuel injection and higher pressure, but it is NOT the pressure that I am using this hose for but rather the durability of the hose.

Get a roll of 3/8” hose, 10’ of 1/4” and 20’ of 5/16” hose.

Be sure to replace all your hose clamps with SS clamps, go new throw the old stuff away. I get mine from Lowes in the plumbing dept.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-1-4-in-to-5-8-in-Dia-Stainless-steel-Adjustable-clamp/1000341875

The price listed is for a bag of 10 and they are all SS construction, a lot of the auto parts store clamps are NOT all SS and they cost much more.

I replaced all my lines on top of the tanks with metal lines, I used steel brake lines. I use the barrier hose to connect the lines to the tanks and also replace rubber fuel line down the frame rails with 3/8 brake lines and put those on the outside of the frame rails.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6928-fuel-tank-system-rebuild.html

Again this are my SUGGESTIONS, you can do what you want!

Regards,

JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> William,
>
> You're wise to replace those old rubber lines. Personally, I'd replace as
> much of them as possible with metal lines. Just as important: Unless the
> tank selector valve is new, I'd replace it with TWO electric pumps, one for
> each tank. That gives you tank, filter, and pump redundancy while
> eliminating that potentially troublesome valve (they can stick in one
> position or, worse, between positions, admitting air). The cost vs
> replacing the valve should be insignificant.
>
> JWID,
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
> Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 12:42 PM william weyrowski

>
>> Looking to replace some old rubber in my 2 month old baby.
>>
>> First, I am going through the gas lines and replacing everything. I found
>> some severe soft spots so I figured that should be the very next thing on
>> my list. I have ordered a couple of rolls of 1/4 and 3/8 hose so in the
>> next week or so I will start laying things out. My plan is to add an
>> electric pump in line, consisting of running the lines from the tanks, to
>> in line filters, then to the fuel selector switch and then to an electric
>> pump, then to the front.
>>
>> As for the fuel tank sending unit, is there an actual need to replace this,
>> or will a little clean up and new filter sack suffice. My understanding is
>> that no one ever gets a true reading anyways, so its not a big concern of
>> mine.
>>
>> Next, I would like to replace all of the rubber bushings in the front.
>> Does anybody have part numbers for these..or is there a convenient kit that
>> someone has put together to help tackle the entire front end?
>>
>> Any advice is greatly welcomed.
>>
>> --
>> William D. Weyrowski
>> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
>> 73 - 26' Sequoia
 
William,

While John is correct, SAE J30-R9 is for fuel injection pressures. It is rated 100psi working and 500 burst.
SAE J30-R14 is the one for carburetor. It is rated for 25psi working pressure and 125 burst.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
William, Matt is correct that the SAE J30-R14 hose is the one that you co=
uld use for a low pressure carburetor system and I did not point that out. =
I used the R9 hose because I do have a high pressure MPFI unit on the coac=
h and I only needed a small piece for the high pressure portion. I bought =
it because I got a really, really good deal on the hose (same price as the =
R14 hose) and they did not have any of the R14 hose instore and I needed it=
that day and I also regularly get a good discount too. Both hoses have th=
e similar construction only the pressure rating is different. The R14 is l=
ess expensive than the R9 hose. Also please note that the hose part number=
s in first email are for the R14 hoses and I am sorry that I did not point =
that out too. If you actually need to use the higher pressure R9 hose then=
the part numbers are as follows. The 3/8=E2=80=9D hose is probably the on=
ly one that would be necessary to use for a higher pressure system. All ot=
her sizes would most likely be low or atmospheric pressures and you could u=
se the R14 hose. Again a warning here, =E2=80=9CNO RUBBER HOSE ON TOP OF T=
HE ENGINE!=E2=80=9D 1/4=E2=80=9D part# 27339 5/16=E2=80=9D part# 27340 3/8=E2=80=9D part# 27341=
Regards, =
J.R. Wright GMC Great Laker MHC GMCGL Tech Editor GMC Eastern States =
Charter Member GMCMI 78 GMC Buskirk 30=E2=80=99 Stretch 75 GMC Avion =
(Under Reconstruction) Michigan > On Nov 8, 2018, at 8:28 PM, Matt C=
olie wrote: > > William, > > While John=
is correct, SAE J30-R9 is for fuel injection pressures. It is rated 100ps=
i working and 500 burst. > SAE J30-R14 is the one for carburetor. It is =
rated for 25psi working pressure and 125 burst. > > Matt > -- >=
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES > Elec=
tronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan > OE Rear Drum Brakes wit=
h Applied Control Arms > SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit > > ____=
___________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Uns=
ubscribe or Change List Options: > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinf=
o/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
William,

Make sure that you use an SAE 30R9 fuel hose in all rubber fuel line
replacement. IF you use an SAE 30R7 hose you will be replacing it again in
5 years or less. It will get hard and brittle with todays ethanol laced
fuels. The R9 hose is a barrier type hose with a inner liner that is
pretty much impervious to Ethanol laced fuels.

I use Gates Barricade hose and it is available in 1/4?, 5/16?, 3/8? and
1/2?.

<
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-1-4-inch-hose/27313/4349937?q=27313&pos=0
>

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/crankcase-breather-hose-14015/df8b1723839a/gates-barricade-5-16-inch-hose/27314/4349938?q=27314&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-3-8-inch-hose/27315/4349939?q=27315&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-1-2-inch-hose/27316/4349940?q=27316&pos=0

I get mine from Oreilly?s because they stock it. The newer manufactured
hoses have a black color liner. The Goodyear hoses originally came with a
blue colored liner. Just be sure to ask for the SAE 30R9 hose.

Gates also does make a SAE R10 Submersible hose as well and it is very
expensive as you only really need it to replace any hose that you might
have inside the fuel tank if you have in tank pumps.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-3-8-inch-hose/27097/4330538?q=27097&pos=0

My first choice would be the Gates hose and the Goodyear SAE 30R9 hose
would also be a good. The SAE 30R9 hose is rated for fuel injection and
higher pressure, but it is NOT the pressure that I am using this hose for
but rather the durability of the hose.

Get a roll of 3/8? hose, 10? of 1/4? and 20? of 5/16? hose.

Be sure to replace all your hose clamps with SS clamps, go new throw the
old stuff away. I get mine from Lowes in the plumbing dept.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-1-4-in-to-5-8-in-Dia-Stainless-steel-Adjustable-clamp/1000341875

The price listed is for a bag of 10 and they are all SS construction, a lot
of the auto parts store clamps are NOT all SS and they cost much more.

I replaced all my lines on top of the tanks with metal lines, I used steel
brake lines. I use the barrier hose to connect the lines to the tanks and
also replace rubber fuel line down the frame rails with 3/8 brake lines and
put those on the outside of the frame rails.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6928-fuel-tank-system-rebuild.html

Again this are my SUGGESTIONS, you can do what you want!

Regards,

JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 30? Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> William,
>
> You're wise to replace those old rubber lines. Personally, I'd replace as
> much of them as possible with metal lines. Just as important: Unless the
> tank selector valve is new, I'd replace it with TWO electric pumps, one
for
> each tank. That gives you tank, filter, and pump redundancy while
> eliminating that potentially troublesome valve (they can stick in one
> position or, worse, between positions, admitting air). The cost vs
> replacing the valve should be insignificant.
>
> JWID,
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
> Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 12:42 PM william weyrowski <
William>

>
>> Looking to replace some old rubber in my 2 month old baby.
>>
>> First, I am going through the gas lines and replacing everything. I
found
>> some severe soft spots so I figured that should be the very next thing on
>> my list. I have ordered a couple of rolls of 1/4 and 3/8 hose so in the
>> next week or so I will start laying things out. My plan is to add an
>> electric pump in line, consisting of running the lines from the tanks, to
>> in line filters, then to the fuel selector switch and then to an electric
>> pump, then to the front.
>>
>> As for the fuel tank sending unit, is there an actual need to replace
this,
>> or will a little clean up and new filter sack suffice. My understanding
is
>> that no one ever gets a true reading anyways, so its not a big concern of
>> mine.
>>
>> Next, I would like to replace all of the rubber bushings in the front.
>> Does anybody have part numbers for these..or is there a convenient kit
that
>> someone has put together to help tackle the entire front end?
>>
>> Any advice is greatly welcomed.
>>
>> --
>> William D. Weyrowski
>> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
>> 73 - 26' Sequoia