Gas Tanks

jrbiava

New member
Jul 11, 1998
19
0
0
Used approx. 50 ft. 3/8",10ft.5/16",10ft.1/4" pluse 3"of 1/2" plus 1-1/4"
ell and tee.
My leak was in the two 5/16" lines going to the overfill/vent next to rear
wheel; where the lines crossed over the frame.
- -----Original Message-----
From: LNelson208
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Saturday, July 11, 1998 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Gas Tanks

>Replacing my fuel lines is a top priority for my coach. I am going to do it
>next week, at the same time replacing the sending unit gaskets, which I
have
>already received from Cinnabar.
>I have two questions regarding the fuel line lengths posted for the return
and
>vent, was the 25' length enough to do both supply and return? (With a 26'
long
>coach, I think I know the answer, but hey, I'm a new guy.)
>Next, I want to install an inline fuel filter between the electric pump and
>the mech. pump. Will the disposable units work in a vertical mode?
>Next, (yes, I know this is the third question) does anyone make a relay
that
>would sense ignition and oil pressure, that would then send 12v to the
>electric pump? The units on the GM P-30 chassis do this, and I guess could
be
>wired in.
>Larry Nelson (burped 1975 Norcold still going strong) Palm Beach 75
 
> Larry Nelson (burped 1975 Norcold still going strong) Palm Beach 75

Great! How and how long did you burp it?
- --

Regards,
John Dolan

jdolan
 
I am in need of replacing the fuel lines in my 76 Eleganza II

In doing so, how much does one have to raise the coach in order to drop the
tanks

Floor jacks, Jack stands, hd ramps???

Please advise as to the best way to accomplish this

I have fuel coming out on fill up

I have replaced the fuel lines from the switching valve (mid coach) up to
fuel pump and the steel line to the carb

However, I need to drop the tanks and finish the job

Mike Linderman

- -----Original Message-----
From:
To:
Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: GMC: Gas Tanks

>May not be of any value to anyone, but here goes.
>This morning I removed the gas tanks on my 73 Glacier. Emptied them
yesterday.
>I did this for two reasons, one being that the hose to the generator had a
>hole over the tank, and the other because when I filled it up, it would
leak
>there.
>The front tank had to come out first because of the front 3 bolts holding
the
>tank bracket are very had to get to. To get it down, need to loose the fill
>tee hose connections. Once its down, the supply/return hoses and the
>electrical connections
>can be removed. I removed the sending units to check the inside of the
tanks
>and also check the o-rings. The o-rings were fine and I didn't see any rust
>but I took the tanks out for coating, and will get them back monday
morning.
>I measured the hoses.
>For the generator its 1/4" x 9'.
>For the supply its 3/8' x 15' to the tanks switch.
>For the return and vent its 5/16" x 25' .
>My hoses were either very hard or cracked.
>I removed the generator a few months ago and had it tuned and checked out.
>I also ordered this ceramic fiber sheets kit to cover the generator
>compartment.
>I'll do that tomorrow before installing back the generator.
>All for now.
>
 
Am interested in how you got the coach up high enough to remove the tanks
with 6 each 1x8x6's. Where did you put them, under the wheels or the casting?

>Just came back from Yosemite, not time to update before leaving last saturday.
>Anyway, last monday I installed my gas tanks after having them boiled and
>coated.
>I had the motorhome on six 1x8x6", under the boggies and the front on car
>ramps.
>This worked fine for me on the removal and installation of the tanks. Also
>replaced the oil cooler lines with ss lines fron JR Slaten (thank you).
>Had the power steering lines made here locally. Had them replace the steel
>lines with stainless and one of the hoses with braided over teflon.
>I removed the transmission lines and took them to the same place but they
>could not make them in stainless because of the double flares. Called around
>and nobody wanted to make them in stainless.
>Bought a RIDGID flaring tool from Grainger and a 20' long 5/16 ss tubing from
>Tube Service and did the flares myself but had to use the old fittings.
>Actually the tool was only good for one flare. It slips on the second flare.
>Took the tool to a friend of mine that has a tool and dye shop and he made me
>a new holding bar. This one now is 3" long instead of the previous 3/4". It
>works great.
>The flares and the tube bending only took an hour, but I started on tuesday
>and finished on friday afternoon.
>
>