Gas Tank Fill Leak

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a.

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Today we drained all but 12 gallons of the 5 year old gas and added some SeaFoam to prevent sticky valve problems, and 20 gallons of ethanol gas to
absorb as much water as practical. We drained 10 gallons and added 20, less what leaked on the ground, which I guess was less than a gallon.

While adding the 20 gallons of gas from 5 gallon cans, after the first 10 gallons, we noticed A LOT of gas running onto the ground and it seemed to be
coming from the junction of the fill tube to the front tank. It leaks while we are putting gas in, and stops shortly after we stop filling, but
doesn't seem to loose all the that was added.

We tried funneling the gas in a way that it stayed in the center of the fill neck, and not into the vent part, with the same leakage.

Again, it doesn't seem to leak all the gas out that we put in. It leaks while we are filling, and stops a little while after we stop. We repeated that
test a couple of times.

If it was actually leaking from a fill tube connection, wouldn't it keep leaking until all the gas we put in leaked out? I don't think it is doing
that. More like it leaks before the gas from the rear tank (where it wants to go) equalizes with the gas in the front tank.

The level in the tanks is definitely higher than the fill line all the time, yet it doesn't leak all the time, only when gas is being added.

What could be causing it?

The prospective new owner is planning to replace all the rubber lines (fill, vent, engine, Onan, liquid/vapor separator and vent canister), but this
is not giving him confidence that he can drive it to where that job can be done. This has the makings of a deal breaker, and I want to keep this
"sale" on track.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"When I grow up I am going to be a curmudgeon."
 
Since it's only a temporary fix, I would take the hose off and go to the
nearest REAL parts store. If they don't have any proper gas hose,
look for the shortest radiator hose in that diameter. Cut a piece the same
length and put it on. Yes, it will deteriorate, but not for a
while and it will allow the new owner to get somewhere else and fix it
properly.

Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "A."
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 8:31 PM
To:
Subject: [GMCnet] Gas Tank Fill Leak

> Today we drained all but 12 gallons of the 5 year old gas and added some
> SeaFoam to prevent sticky valve problems, and 20 gallons of ethanol gas to
> absorb as much water as practical. We drained 10 gallons and added 20,
> less what leaked on the ground, which I guess was less than a gallon.
>
> While adding the 20 gallons of gas from 5 gallon cans, after the first 10
> gallons, we noticed A LOT of gas running onto the ground and it seemed to
> be
> coming from the junction of the fill tube to the front tank. It leaks
> while we are putting gas in, and stops shortly after we stop filling, but
> doesn't seem to loose all the that was added.
>
> We tried funneling the gas in a way that it stayed in the center of the
> fill neck, and not into the vent part, with the same leakage.
>
> Again, it doesn't seem to leak all the gas out that we put in. It leaks
> while we are filling, and stops a little while after we stop. We repeated
> that
> test a couple of times.
>
> If it was actually leaking from a fill tube connection, wouldn't it keep
> leaking until all the gas we put in leaked out? I don't think it is doing
> that. More like it leaks before the gas from the rear tank (where it wants
> to go) equalizes with the gas in the front tank.
>
> The level in the tanks is definitely higher than the fill line all the
> time, yet it doesn't leak all the time, only when gas is being added.
>
> What could be causing it?
>
> The prospective new owner is planning to replace all the rubber lines
> (fill, vent, engine, Onan, liquid/vapor separator and vent canister), but
> this
> is not giving him confidence that he can drive it to where that job can be
> done. This has the makings of a deal breaker, and I want to keep this
> "sale" on track.
>
> Thanks in advance for suggestions.
> --
> 73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
> 73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
> Upper Alabama
> "When I grow up I am going to be a curmudgeon."
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
If you need them, I have a full set of the three fill line hoses that I got from Jim K. 6 years ago. I planned to drop my tanks and replace them but
haven't got around to doing it yet. I still plan to do it some day, but I could send these overnight or 2nd day if you need them in a rush. You
could order replacement ones for me at your leisure.

Ken B.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
> If you need them, I have a full set of the three fill line hoses that I got from Jim K. 6 years ago. I planned to drop my tanks and replace them
> but haven't got around to doing it yet. I still plan to do it some day, but I could send these overnight or 2nd day if you need them in a rush.
> You could order replacement ones for me at your leisure.
>
> Ken B.
We have the rubber parts to replace the ones on the fill lines, just not confident that we are proficient enough to interleave that task into what has
to be done to get him on the road Tuesday. Ken Frey is on his itinerary, where the gas line replacement would get done. But he has to get there, and
it is 900 miles from here.

We have a petty long todo list without the gas line problem.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"When I grow up I am going to be a curmudgeon."
 
OK, then I will not go look for the ones that I have. I know that they are in my basement somewhere.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Today we drained all but 12 gallons of the 5 year old gas and added some SeaFoam to prevent sticky valve problems, and 20 gallons of ethanol gas to
absorb as much water as practical. We drained 10 gallons and added 20, less what leaked on the ground, which I guess was less than a gallon.

While adding the 20 gallons of gas from 5 gallon cans, after the first 10 gallons, we noticed A LOT of gas running onto the ground and it seemed to be
coming from the junction of the fill tube to the front tank. It leaks while we are putting gas in, and stops shortly after we stop filling, but
doesn't seem to loose all the that was added.

We tried funneling the gas in a way that it stayed in the center of the fill neck, and not into the vent part, with the same leakage.

Again, it doesn't seem to leak all the gas out that we put in. It leaks while we are filling, and stops a little while after we stop. We repeated that
test a couple of times.

If it was actually leaking from a fill tube connection, wouldn't it keep leaking until all the gas we put in leaked out? I don't think it is doing
that. More like it leaks before the gas from the rear tank (where it wants to go) equalizes with the gas in the front tank.

The level in the tanks is definitely higher than the fill line all the time, yet it doesn't leak all the time, only when gas is being added.

What could be causing it?

The prospective new owner is planning to replace all the rubber lines (fill, vent, engine, Onan, liquid/vapor separator and vent canister), but this
is not giving him confidence that he can drive it to where that job can be done. This has the makings of a deal breaker, and I want to keep this
"sale" on track.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.
--
73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
Upper Alabama
"When I grow up I am going to be a curmudgeon.”
===============
 
A,

Getting the fill line down and back up is not a big or a bad job. You do have to have the coach high enough to work under. I (in my unfortunate
experience) found it much easy to deal with the fuel tanks with the fill plumbing out of the way.

You have a 73, so there is a rubber Ell at the rear tank. Take that out first. Then pull the long pipe to the T. There are three pieces of rubber
there. The T is also not a bi-direction part. It is polar, look at it carefully. The big side goes forward.

All of this is a 15 minute job if the coach is high enough to work under and you have a helper to pass tools.

The last PITA is the rubber that couples to the actual fill pipe down leg. For that you want to peal out the wheel well liner. Then it is easy to
loosen clamps and pull that and replace the kinked hose that makes that turn.

Best of luck

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit