Bryan,
Rick is correct that you will need to pull the hub and bearings to fit a new
stud in. Or, if you want to put that off until its time to service the
bearings, you might do what I did when I broke one of my front wheel studs
about 10,000 miles ago. I found that a 9/16 inch fine thread grade 8 bolt
about 2 " long (be sure to measure the actual length needed), with the head
backed up with a large thick washer, would thread fully into a cone shaped lug
nut I had in my spare parts bin. This lug nut was the correct overall length
to slide in behind the hub flange from which the broken stud could be driven
out from the front. My stud broke close to the hub and you might have to have
to cut a broken one shorter if the break is closer to the end than mine was.
Anyway, because I was running the OEM 16.5 in steel wheels, a short open end
wrench could be inserted through on of the oval wheel slots to hold the lug nut
as I torqued the bolt to about 150 ft-lbs. This arrangement worked fine as
far as I could tell with neither the temporary bolt and nut and wheel coming
loose. I have now replaced the hubs with new ones from Cinnabar and they came
with the longer studs for Alcoa. So as Arch would say, that's what I did---you
may or may not have the same results But good luck anyway.
Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN
> I have more muscles then I thought I had. So now I have to replace one of
> my studs on the front wheel. What do I have to do to get to it? Do I have
> to pull the disc off and then seperate the disc from the hub? Then hammer
> the stud out?
> Thanks for more of your help
> Bryan in N.J