Front wheel bearing removal

alan bredbury

New member
Aug 5, 1999
189
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I bought a Warner puller but not the OTC927. I opened up
the threaded holes to 3/4" fine thread and used hardened
3/4 inch threaded rod. I also made a couple of extra pieces
that seem to make it a bit easier to use but for the most
part once I get the knuckle off I use the 10 ton hydraulic
press in my garage. The part of the puller that gets behind
the old bearing for removal (I cut a couple of clearance
slots in it so it would fit better) is worth the cost of
the puller by itself. BTW I have a full machine shop at my
disposal, it was still worth buying the puller cause the
design work is done not to mention material cost and
machining time. It may be messy but keep the threads
lubricated. I will try to get some pics up on my GMC link
soon.

>Guys the first pullers were never designed for a hydraulic
>puller. The second design was. They are both equally
>strong only differing in their diameters and distance
>between the puller holes.
> Jim bounds has one ask him how easy it is to use it. Use
>it right and it will work as advertised. Mount the hub on
>an upside down GMC rim and attach it with a couple of lug
>nuts. Just be informed that there are some that can break
>an anvil in a sandpile. Read the directions available at
>Billy masseys site and it is easy. No matter what method
>you use you will not break either of them. Has anyone
>broke one yet? You will break before the puller does.
>Remember the OTC927 is a 10 ton puller.

>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm still wondering about how many people with the
>>Warner Puller are having a rough time pulling the
>>bearings? That is with the first 15 5 3/16 models
>> or the 5 3/4 one. I still have not found a hydraulic
>>jack slim enough, or
>> able to be easily modified to fit the
>> 3 3/8 space requirement, a 1 1/2 ton model was also too
>>large. Any feedback from users?
>>I'll have to admit I'm getting a little concerned now. I
>>have the smaller model
>>of puller and I've gone through several sources(including
>>Sears, the local
>>cheap tool store, my garage and my neighbor's) and there
>>are no jacks that will
>>fit inside the space provided on the puller I have. To
>>be honest, I don't think
>a jack narrow enough to fit is available . Therefore I'll
have to use
what I
>bought as is.
>
>I've not used mine yet for its intended purpose and
therefore have no
idea of
>how much force is actually required to pull the bearings
out. It was
my
>understanding that the puller was a brute (even the first
version) and
that it
>would get any bearing out. That remains to be seen by me,
but I am
hopeful
that
>my setup will work as advertised. Otherwise my wife's
going to get
the last
>laugh :^)
>Richard Waters
>1976 Palm Beach
>Troy, MI
>
>
>>
>> Mark '77 Palm Beach LINY
>
>

=====
Alan Bredbury
Clinton, Ct.
1974 GMC 26' Classic Motorhome
http://www.finesttool.com/index.html/special.htm

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I am not confused, and actually when I took the picture
last night I found that I had only needed one slot. Pics
are going up on this morning. I may be doing something
wrong but not as you described. When I remove the bearing I
take out the three bolts that hold the knuckle assembly and
bearings on the vehicle, I have a thin open end wrench that
makes this quite easy. I then have the dish shaped dohicky
behind the bearing, on my vehicle this stamped metal piece
has two lugs sticking out that get in the way of the
puller, that is why I put clearance in the puller.
See pics here, bottom of the page
http://www.finesttool.com/index.html/gmc.htm
Sorry if it takes a long time to load, I think I need to
split up these pictures, to many on one page.

>>Date: 20 Jun 2000 14:20:42 -0000
>>From: tom warner
>>Alan I dont know what you are referring to but there is
>>absolutely no need to machine any additional slots in the
>>puller. Please note that as far as I know my puller is
>>the only one on the market at any price whose cavity
>>for the bearing is perfectly round. It was designed to
>>fit perfectly around a maximum outside dimensioned
>>bearing race. You may be getting confused it you do not
>>push the inner seal to the bottom of the hub BEFORE you
>>install the split rings around the bearing. I know that
>>others have called me with the same complaint and that is
>>what they are doing.
>>Alan is right the closest thing to this puller costs over
>>$600. You figure which is a good deal.

>I bought a Warner puller but not the OTC927. I opened up
>the threaded holes to 3/4" fine thread and used hardened
>3/4 inch threaded rod. I also made a couple of extra
pieces
>that seem to make it a bit easier to use but for the most
>part once I get the knuckle off I use the 10 ton hydraulic
>press in my garage. The part of the puller that gets
behind
>the old bearing for removal (I cut a couple of clearance
>slots in it so it would fit better) is worth the cost of
>the puller by itself. BTW I have a full machine shop at my
>disposal, it was still worth buying the puller cause the
>design work is done not to mention material cost and
>machining time. It may be messy but keep the threads
>lubricated. I will try to get some pics up on my GMC link
>soon.

=====
Alan Bredbury
Clinton, Ct.
1974 GMC 26' Classic Motorhome
http://www.finesttool.com/index.html/special.htm

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>I am not confused, and actually when I took the picture
>last night I found that I had only needed one slot. Pics
>are going up on this morning. I may be doing something
>wrong but not as you described. When I remove the bearing I
>take out the three bolts that hold the knuckle assembly and
>bearings on the vehicle, I have a thin open end wrench that
>makes this quite easy.

Alan - a quick question -- as you've got me confused. When you
indicate that you take out the three bolts that hold the knuckle
assembly and bearings on the vehicle do you mean to say the hub
assembly rather than the knuckle assembly?

The knuckle assembly is held on the vehicle by the two ball joints
and by the tie rod end.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
 
You said
>do you mean to say the hub assembly rather than the
>knuckle assembly?

Yes, sorry we have established before that as a computer
programmer and former engineer I have a problem with the
english language.

>I am not confused, and actually when I took the picture
>last night I found that I had only needed one slot. Pics
>are going up on this morning. I may be doing something
>wrong but not as you described. When I remove the bearing
I
>take out the three bolts that hold the knuckle assembly
and
>bearings on the vehicle, I have a thin open end wrench
that
>makes this quite easy.

Alan - a quick question -- as you've got me confused. When
you
indicate that you take out the three bolts that hold the
knuckle
assembly and bearings on the vehicle do you mean to say the
hub
assembly rather than the knuckle assembly?

The knuckle assembly is held on the vehicle by the two ball
joints
and by the tie rod end.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

=====
Alan Bredbury
Clinton, Ct.
1974 GMC 26' Classic Motorhome
http://www.finesttool.com/index.html/special.htm

__________________________________________________
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Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger.
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>You said
>>do you mean to say the hub assembly rather than the
>>knuckle assembly?
>
>Yes, sorry we have established before that as a computer
>programmer and former engineer I have a problem with the
>english language.

Alan - thanks for the clarification. Now your message of 6/20 makes
more sense to me. This is where you described using the 10 ton press
in your garage to remove the bearing from the knuckle. I can
visualize what you were doing better now that I assume that you were
removing the bearing from the hub.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM