Front brake pad thickness

E

Ernest Dankert

Member
May 4, 2007
150
0
16
Just finished new shocks all the way around and new CV joint boots at LF corner. My question for the group, is there a standard wear thickness
for the front brake pads? I have riveted pads and the thickness left is just over 1/4 inch. My rotors were turned and are at minimum thickness.
This is a stock front end and serviced bearings and knuckles by D. Lenzi.
--
1977 Eleganza II
Ogden NY
 
If I’m into it that far and see 50% or less remaining, it’s more time effective to just replace them on the spot. Jacking and pulling wheels is
biggest part of job
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
If you have it this far apart and rotors are already "turned", put new pads in. You say that you had the rotors turned? Is that a fresh turning with
no miles on this grind? If so, get a set of Performance Friction pads as your replacement pads. Once bedded properly, they are probably the best pad
for our application. Give every good stopping power, good wear characteristics, and easy on our hard to find rotors. If your rotors do not have a
fresh grind on them, find someone who has a "Grizzly Grinder". Here is one on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/i/223980763267?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dadeaf41bc0954d6db46308a1b9d74b92%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D114259036204%26itm%3D223980763267%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DGrizzly

If this link does not work, just search Grizzly Grinder on ebay.

This is a on the car rotor surfacer that when properly used will prepare the surface for the Performance Friction pads while taking off a minimum of
rotor material. If you don't have access to this tool, use a portable oscillating or random oscillating sander with a very aggressive grit paper to
remove the glaze that is on the rotors. You must remove all glaze...scratch the s$.t out of it. It takes a lot of time and effort to do this, but
without doing that, the Performance Friction pads will not break in properly and will likely give you hard terrible brakes.

Just My Humble Opinion, hope it works out for you.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Dang, someone must of picked up that grizzly grinder quick today on ebay!

I will second what Larry said. I have installed performance friction on three coaches. 1st one we did not sand the rotor and that took alot of
hard breaking and bad brakes to get the pads to bed in. Just about the time we were going to pull it apart and sand the rotor, it started braking
better and is now braking just fine. But it took alot of heat cycling the brakes.

my coach we used the grizzly grinder on. It felt as good stopping as my car stopping out of the shop. drove it basically 1 mile and returned back
to the shop with no concerns. I have run those brakes for a year, and had them out from MN to oregon and back, and even yesterday while driving
though Minneapolis I was thinking how I had full confidence in the brakes and those pads really work well stopping the coach.

last coach we DA sanded the rotors as we did not have the grizzy grinder that day, and it stopped fairly well out of the driveway. That coach is
not a good test bed, because it has other brake problems(rear not working well). We were just trying to get it home that day, and succeeded. that
coach is a project and will probably not be on the road for a few more for further brake testing.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Normally I would agree. Lately it seems it is a crap shoot with pads and rotors. My rotors on the GMC are perfect. Got about
30K miles, much in the Rockies.

I have bought Delco, NAPA, and Advance rotors and pads. All different quality levels and nothing lasts more than 2-3 years.

Yes I know how to slow down and this is across 4 drivers, I discount driving technique.

In retrospect I could have pulled the pads and looked inside.

Was hoping to get a straight answer.

I am old enough that it is a chore getting up and down and after the 6 wheel shock exercise and wresting with the drive shaft
I had other demands on my time and shop space.
--
1977 Eleganza II
Ogden NY
 
I thought the answers were clear.

you can't buy a new rotor. They do not make them. You can buy a re-drilled toronado rotor. they are over $100. and you have to completely
disassemble the knuckle with specialty tools to replace.

so if you think you need new pads. you stop thinking and you just do it. You do not want to ever have to replace a rotor.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Yep. Well put.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Sep 28, 2020, 1:31 PM Jon Roche via Gmclist
wrote:

> I thought the answers were clear.
>
> you can't buy a new rotor. They do not make them. You can buy a
> re-drilled toronado rotor. they are over $100. and you have to completely
> disassemble the knuckle with specialty tools to replace.
>
>
> so if you think you need new pads. you stop thinking and you just do it.
> You do not want to ever have to replace a rotor.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
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