Front axle bolts

[marcel bourgon]

Good afternoon from a hot southwest New Mexico. Just had the front pads replace on my coach. While doing so we noticed several of the bolts holding the drive shafts to the transmission had gone missing. I was lucky enough to find this before they were all gone. I was lucky enough to have several of these bolts in my shop that had showed up on the floor. I had not know what they were for but I had set them in my bolt drawer.
A serious suggestion would be to look at these bolts next time you are working on your coach. I was lucky this could have been real problem.
When we put the bolts back in we used locktight and fresh lock washers to be on the safe side. Do not take this lightly I could have had a real serious accident.
Marcel Bourgon in Santa Teresa, New Mexico
1976 Palm Beach

 

[Ken B]

That is a very common problem. It is usually caused by someone not torquing the bolts by the book, which I believe is 70 Ft. pounds. The bolts are
super hard with special collar washers and are not suppose to be reused. I have reused them but be sure that you torqued them correctly. Blue
loctite, well OK, but I have never needed it.

I have been out on two Black list calls where the coaches were missing all of the bolts on the driver's side. I now carry enough spares to do two
more black list calls.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[johnny]

I used 60 ft lbs on new hex bolt s and the old washers. My industrial supply house didn't have those particular washers. Put a thread chaser through
the flange, blue LocTite and no problems since.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

 

[Matt Colie]

Marcel,

Did you actually set the screws in with a torque wrench? If you did, I very much doubt that they backed out.

Those fasteners are actually MS2000 series from aircraft. They are not suppose to be in yield even at 70, but the variables are just too wide to
guaranty that. If you saved them, clean them and put the thread up against the thread of an unused part. If the used part does not match perfectly,
it is scrap metal. For the cost, I don't like the risk of reusing them.

At those loads, the washers have to be hardened also. In spite of the fact that GM called for a split lock washer, it will be useless as it cannot
possibly get a bite of the screws.

I keep meaning to talk to Bill Brown about getting sheet metal keepers. Something you bash over a pair of the double hex heads so they can't back
out. Safety wire would work if you could drill the heads, but don't even try with conventional drills.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[marcel bourgon]

Thanks for your thoughts. I had torqued them, but like anything things happen.. We used new washer and thread lock also to make sure. I was just giving every body a heads up. It takes a minute to check these out just to make sure.
Marcel


>
> Marcel,
>
> Did you actually set the screws in with a torque wrench? If you did, I very much doubt that they backed out.
>
> Those fasteners are actually MS2000 series from aircraft. They are not suppose to be in yield even at 70, but the variables are just too wide to
> guaranty that. If you saved them, clean them and put the thread up against the thread of an unused part. If the used part does not match perfectly,
> it is scrap metal. For the cost, I don't like the risk of reusing them.
>
> At those loads, the washers have to be hardened also. In spite of the fact that GM called for a split lock washer, it will be useless as it cannot
> possibly get a bite of the screws.
>
> I keep meaning to talk to Bill Brown about getting sheet metal keepers. Something you bash over a pair of the double hex heads so they can't back
> out. Safety wire would work if you could drill the heads, but don't even try with conventional drills.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[jim kanomata1]

Generally it is the left side that loosens up due to direct vibration from
the spider gear, the right side is dampeed by the long shaft.
When changing oil or greasing, take time to do a good visual inspection as
that is when one can see thing that are coming apart.

On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 8:42 AM Marcel Bourgon via Gmclist <

> Thanks for your thoughts. I had torqued them, but like anything things
> happen.. We used new washer and thread lock also to make sure. I was just
> giving every body a heads up. It takes a minute to check these out just to
> make sure.
> Marcel
>
>
> > On Sep 8, 2019, at 8:58 AM, Matt Colie via Gmclist <

> >
> > Marcel,
> >
> > Did you actually set the screws in with a torque wrench? If you did, I
> very much doubt that they backed out.
> >
> > Those fasteners are actually MS2000 series from aircraft. They are not
> suppose to be in yield even at 70, but the variables are just too wide to
> > guaranty that. If you saved them, clean them and put the thread up
> against the thread of an unused part. If the used part does not match
> perfectly,
> > it is scrap metal. For the cost, I don't like the risk of reusing
> them.
> >
> > At those loads, the washers have to be hardened also. In spite of the
> fact that GM called for a split lock washer, it will be useless as it cannot
> > possibly get a bite of the screws.
> >
> > I keep meaning to talk to Bill Brown about getting sheet metal keepers.
> Something you bash over a pair of the double hex heads so they can't back
> > out. Safety wire would work if you could drill the heads, but don't
> even try with conventional drills.
> >
> > Matt
> > --
> > Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> > Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> > OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> > SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[jim kanomata1]

Marcel,
Thank you for remindin us as this is something people do not do. Using a
locktite is very important and a special high collar lock washer.

On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 2:44 PM Marcel Bourgon via Gmclist <

> Good afternoon from a hot southwest New Mexico. Just had the front pads
> replace on my coach. While doing so we noticed several of the bolts
> holding the drive shafts to the transmission had gone missing. I was lucky
> enough to find this before they were all gone. I was lucky enough to have
> several of these bolts in my shop that had showed up on the floor. I had
> not know what they were for but I had set them in my bolt drawer.
> A serious suggestion would be to look at these bolts next time you are
> working on your coach. I was lucky this could have been real problem.
> When we put the bolts back in we used locktight and fresh lock washers to
> be on the safe side. Do not take this lightly I could have had a real
> serious accident.
> Marcel Bourgon in Santa Teresa, New Mexico
> 1976 Palm Beach
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502