Floor Repairs

P

pm.watker

New member
Dec 23, 2006
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It would seem that front floor rot is a common complaint on GMCs, anyone
repairing theirs might consider a mod I did on my coach to make sure it
doesn't happen again. All you need is 2 pieces of 1mm or thinner alloy sheet
1m x 600mm and a few pot rivets. Feed the bottom edge between the side panel
and the frame, you will need to cut the corners to fit as the sheet over
laps the uprights, trim a bit out at a time till the panel will go low
enough to be inline with the top of the window tracks, fold a 1" flange
along the top that leans in at about 45% trim the ends so that the edge fits
in to the top U of the interior panel, when you are happy with the fit pot
rivet the panel to the uprights, and refit the interior panel, now any water
that overwhelms the drains will be directed out between the frame and the
body leaving the floor and carpet dry. I have some rather poor quality
photos if anyone wants a copy of them,
Pete

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I would like to see them, can you post them on the GMCphoto

gene

> It would seem that front floor rot is a common complaint on GMCs, anyone
> repairing theirs might consider a mod I did on my coach to make sure it
> doesn't happen again. All you need is 2 pieces of 1mm or thinner alloy sheet
> 1m x 600mm and a few pot rivets. Feed the bottom edge between the side panel
> and the frame, you will need to cut the corners to fit as the sheet over
> laps the uprights, trim a bit out at a time till the panel will go low
> enough to be inline with the top of the window tracks, fold a 1" flange
> along the top that leans in at about 45% trim the ends so that the edge fits
> in to the top U of the interior panel, when you are happy with the fit pot
> rivet the panel to the uprights, and refit the interior panel, now any water
> that overwhelms the drains will be directed out between the frame and the
> body leaving the floor and carpet dry. I have some rather poor quality
> photos if anyone wants a copy of them,
> Pete
>
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>

--
Gene Fisher -- 77PB/ore/ca
"Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and -------
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Alternator Protection Cable
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Randy

That sounds like a plan to cope with the problem instead of solving
it. Pull the window frames and reseal them to the body. Then pull
the glass and reseal that to the frames. I did that 10 years ago
and I have not had a single leak since.

In a message dated 1/29/2008 8:24:34 P.M. Central Standard Time,

>I have been toying with the idea of putting in PVC gutters in the wall
under the windows with drain tubes >that if necessary feed into a single drain
tube and out of the coach for each window.

Take Care
Arch
76 EX Glenbrook
So IL


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Randy writes...

> I have been toying with the idea of putting in PVC gutters in the
> wall under the windows with drain tubes that if necessary feed into
> a single drain tube and out of the coach for each window.

> Anyone been there already?

Leaks around the house windows can be fixed, though it isn't always
easy. I ended up replacing all my windows to finally address leaks
there. None of those leaks had rotted out the floor, but they came
close in a couple of spots.

The roof rails can also carry water from leaks to the end caps. I have
installed drains in the roof rails that use vinyl tubing to carry any
water down through the floor to the outside. I still get leaks from
those corners occasionally, though, and I'm still working on them.

I also installed a drain in my refer compartment which drains down
through the rear wheel well.

The cockpit window has provide unfixable regarding leaks. I've done
all the prescribed things, and it still leaks. When I replaced the
rotted floor under that window, I laid a layer of fiberglass over the
floor, and then installed a drain at the rear of that section so that
any excess water has a place to go. My drain is a piece of 3/8" IOD
copper pipe, flared on one end, and fitted tightly in a countersunk
3/8" hole. I sealed it with caulk.

Here's my photo album on leaks:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4432

Rick "still fighting leaks" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Randy

First us a sealer that does not dry out. Second seal the floor all
around the edges of the coach and back by the bath. I used a first
coat of thinned polyurethane and then a straight out of the can coat.
JMHO

In a message dated 1/30/2008 6:39:31 P.M. Central Standard Time,

>I plan on resealing the windows too but I don't want floor rot when the
sealant dries out.

Take Care
Arch
76 EX Glenbrook
So IL


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What kind of sealer stays pliable, yet has good adhesion long term? Seam sealers would work if you were sure you wouldn't have any movement and were just keeping out water, but I think the size of these coaches allows enough flex that I'd need something different. Whatever the stuff on the back of Dynomat Xtreme is is pretty sticky tar-like stuff.

Also, is there an economical foam-block type insulation that I can stick to the inside wall of the body? I don't want fiberglass insulation that could trap water laying right against the aluminum substructure. I've been through that corrosion heartbreak before.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ

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> The cockpit window has provide unfixable regarding leaks. I've done
> all the prescribed things, and it still leaks. When I replaced the
> rotted floor under that window, I laid a layer of fiberglass over the
> floor, and then installed a drain at the rear of that section so that
> any excess water has a place to go. My drain is a piece of 3/8" IOD
> copper pipe, flared on one end, and fitted tightly in a countersunk
> 3/8" hole. I sealed it with caulk.
>
> Here's my photo album on leaks:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4432


Your cockpit leak is identical to mine except its on the right side, not the left. I assumed I had 3/4" plywood, but I better check before I cut into the new piece (mines a very early '73 s/n 78). I have the very same leak behind the passenger front seat as you had behind the driver's seat. I re-made a panel out of 1/8" fiberboard covered in woodgrain contact paper (it's not too visible, but it matches pretty well).

I found these leaks even with a cover on the coach after some pretty soaking rains. I'm not sure I'll go the full window replacement route right away, given the little rain we get here. But I need to get it back together so I can finish the fuel pump install before we leave for our trip in 6 weeks.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ

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>
> The cockpit window has provide unfixable regarding leaks. I've done
> all the prescribed things, and it still leaks. When I replaced the
> rotted floor under that window, I laid a layer of fiberglass over the
> floor, and then installed a drain at the rear of that section so that
> any excess water has a place to go. My drain is a piece of 3/8" IOD
> copper pipe, flared on one end, and fitted tightly in a countersunk
> 3/8" hole. I sealed it with caulk.
>
> Rick "still fighting leaks" Denney
>
There is a possibility that it isn't the window at all.
I thought I had a cockpit window leak because the floor beside the
passenger seat and the step behind it were wet but when I pressurized
the motor home to do a leak test it turned out to be a hairline crack
in the sidewall directly behind the window where the aluminum panel
is glued to the fiberglass. The grove behind the window that runs
from the top down to the beltline had a tiny crack that was not
really visible. I used a dremel tool with a pointed bit and cleaned
out the area, put masking tape on both sides of the crack and filled
it with J-B Weld. It has held for years now with no more leak.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

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> >
> > The cockpit window has provide unfixable regarding leaks. I've done
> > all the prescribed things, and it still leaks. When I replaced the
> > rotted floor under that window, I laid a layer of fiberglass over the
> > floor, and then installed a drain at the rear of that section so that
> > any excess water has a place to go. My drain is a piece of 3/8" IOD
> > copper pipe, flared on one end, and fitted tightly in a countersunk
> > 3/8" hole. I sealed it with caulk.
> >
> > Rick "still fighting leaks" Denney
> >


Rick,

I started having a leak at the cockpit windows while in Florida for the January rallys. It rained pretty hard there and I finally found the leak while watching during a rain storm. My flexible channel strips were replaced about 10 years ago and had the kind that water flows through it to the two drain slots. Dust and grime has accumulated in the bottom and has plugged up the strips and the water has no place to go but into the coach at the front of the sliding window. I am cutting slots above the drain slots to get rid if the water. If you look close at the front of the sliding window you can see where the water can get into the coach.

Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
--
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements

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> Quote:
> > The cockpit window has provide unfixable regarding leaks.
> > Rick "still fighting leaks" Denney
>
> I started having a leak at the cockpit windows while in Florida for the January rallys. Dust and grime has accumulated in the bottom and has plugged up the strips and the water has no place to go but into the coach at the front of the sliding window. I am cutting slots above the drain slots
> Gene Dotson
> 74 Canyonlands

I think the best way to create these is with a soldering iron. Cutting leaves frizzies, but when you melt the slot it will be clean and open.
"think 'cauterize' - just what I did"
--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC

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Emery Stora writes...

> There is a possibility that it isn't the window at all. I thought I
> had a cockpit window leak because the floor beside the passenger
> seat and the step behind it were wet but when I pressurized the
> motor home to do a leak test it turned out to be a hairline crack in
> the sidewall directly behind the window where the aluminum panel is
> glued to the fiberglass.

My leak is right where the cockpit window and the windshield meet. It
could be one or the other, but I don't see where either is glued to an
aluminum panel in that location.

But you've probably put your finger on the solution: pressurize the
coach and find out where it's coming in.

Rick "who might need a pretty darn high air flow to build much
pressure" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Gene Dotson writes...

> My flexible channel strips were replaced about 10 years ago and had
> the kind that water flows through it to the two drain slots. Dust
> and grime has accumulated in the bottom and has plugged up the
> strips and the water has no place to go but into the coach at the
> front of the sliding window.

I had replaced my window channels as part of the original leak repair,
including making the proper cuts to open them into the drains. That
eliminated much of the leaking, but there is still a leak right around
that joint between the cockpit window frame and the windshield. It
could well me the windshield that is leaking--but I haven't found it.

Rick "who also needs to replace the sealant across the top edge of the
windshield" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Randy writes...

> Your cockpit leak is identical to mine except its on the right side,
> not the left. I assumed I had 3/4" plywood...

Your '73 should have 1" plywood floors. I used a 1.5" thick
pressure-treated 2x8, and cut a rabbet into the edge to settle down
into the aluminum floor frame to be level at the top. I sealed it in
place with 3M 5200, and then fiberglassed over the top of it. I would
have used plywood, but I had the 2x8 handy and I liked the idea that
it was pressure treated.

Rick "who sometimes adapts problems to fit available raw materials"
Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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I had a window leak in the same area Rick and about a year ago through GMC
net thread I bought a couple of tubes of Permatex Windshield sealer. It is a
clear kind of thin liquid. I just squeezed it into the area and it runs into
the void and hardens I guess. Seemed to work for that leak. Now if I could
just find the one in rear!!!.

Thanks,

Gary and Joanne Worobec
Anza, CA
1973 23' Glacier

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Denney"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [gmclist] Floor Repairs

> Gene Dotson writes...
>
>> My flexible channel strips were replaced about 10 years ago and had
>> the kind that water flows through it to the two drain slots. Dust
>> and grime has accumulated in the bottom and has plugged up the
>> strips and the water has no place to go but into the coach at the
>> front of the sliding window.
>
> I had replaced my window channels as part of the original leak repair,
> including making the proper cuts to open them into the drains. That
> eliminated much of the leaking, but there is still a leak right around
> that joint between the cockpit window frame and the windshield. It
> could well me the windshield that is leaking--but I haven't found it.
>
> Rick "who also needs to replace the sealant across the top edge of the
> windshield" Denney
>
> '73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change your settings -
> http://www.gmcnet.org/settings.htm
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Rick;
I was a firm believer in pressure treated dimension and "direct bury"
plywood. I have a 4' X 3' X 3/4" piece of treated plywood for a lid on
my compost box. It is @ 3 years old and I can pull the plys apart with
my fingers. The lid had 3" of wet now on it the other day and I propped
it up with a 2" X 2". The 2 x 2 it went right through the plywood. I
guess the fungi in my neighborhood does not recognize the treatment?
Gordon

> Randy writes...
>
>
>> Your cockpit leak is identical to mine except its on the right side,
>> not the left. I assumed I had 3/4" plywood...
>>
>
> Your '73 should have 1" plywood floors. I used a 1.5" thick
> pressure-treated 2x8, and cut a rabbet into the edge to settle down
> into the aluminum floor frame to be level at the top. I sealed it in
> place with 3M 5200, and then fiberglassed over the top of it. I would
> have used plywood, but I had the 2x8 handy and I liked the idea that
> it was pressure treated.
>
> Rick "who sometimes adapts problems to fit available raw materials"
> Denney
>
> '73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
>
>
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>
>

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Gordon & the "Tin Gerbil" writes...

> I was a firm believer in pressure treated dimension and "direct
> bury" plywood. I have a 4' X 3' X 3/4" piece of treated plywood for
> a lid on my compost box. It is @ 3 years old and I can pull the
> plys apart with my fingers. The lid had 3" of wet now on it the
> other day and I propped it up with a 2" X 2". The 2 x 2 it went
> right through the plywood. I guess the fungi in my neighborhood
> does not recognize the treatment?

None of the pressure-treated stuff is as good as it used to be, and
the fungi in your compost might be partly to blame, too. There are
options. One is to soak the wood in Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
(CPES)--

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

--which will render it completely waterproof. I have some of the stuff
that I'll use to toughen up the slightly softened wood on the
passenger side, which was not damaged enough to need replacing. I'll
do that when I pull the seat to replace the carpet. I've already fixed
the leak.

Another is to fiberglass over the top of the wood where the water
might go. I used just plain-old polyester-resin fibgerglass. I didn't
see much need for the strength of epoxy resin in that area.

from the underside, the wood doesn't get soaked and stay soaked, and I
don't think rot will be an issue here.

So, I used pressure-treated wood, but I don't really depend on the
treatment to protect it.

Rick "keeping the wood dry" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

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Well, the floor's in. Lessons learned:
1. It is 1" plywood, but not where it meets the metal structure. Shoulda had a router. [Yeah, I know somebody posted this before, but I figured...)

2. Trying to measure the piece one place and make it somewhere else leads to a piece that's not quite right (like me that way)

3. Stainless sheetmetal screws don't tolerate pilot holes that are undersize. a buck a piece and I snapped the heads off three quicker than you can read this sentence.

4. Rubberized undercoat is great stuff to coat anything that may get exposed to unwanted moisture.

Now to find either someone who can weld the plastic sidewall where it has cracked, or a decent DIY method to fix the sidewall. I may have to forego this and just put it back together so I can get onto the other jobs before the trip. 5 1/2 weeks and counting.
--
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ

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