Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2 inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
Floor repair.
- Thread starter Bob Dunahugh
- Start date
> Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2
> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the
> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Just about the same thing I did with the bad spots in my floor.
--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2
> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the
> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Just about the same thing I did with the bad spots in my floor.
--
Tom Lins
Elkton, FL
77 GM Rear Twin
Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
might be.
> Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
> were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
> repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2
> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
> area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the
> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to
> 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
> floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
> Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
might be.
> Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
> were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
> repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2
> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
> area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the
> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to
> 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
> floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
> Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Replacing the whole panel is not hard assuming you have everything that
sits on top of it,anything that passes through it and anything which might
be pinned to the underside removed. Just pulling screws from there.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
>
> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
> might be.
>
>
> > Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
> > were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> > that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
> > repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about
> 1-1/2
> > inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
> > area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to
> the
> > floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router
> to
> > 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> > the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
> > floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> > screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
> > Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> > Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
sits on top of it,anything that passes through it and anything which might
be pinned to the underside removed. Just pulling screws from there.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
> Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
>
> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
> might be.
>
>
> > Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
> > were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> > that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
> > repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about
> 1-1/2
> > inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
> > area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to
> the
> > floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router
> to
> > 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> > the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
> > floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> > screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
> > Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> > Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
>
> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it might be.
Will,
Two things..
If you want to see how the floor is put in, give Nichole a call. Her floor is completely visible - at least at the moment.
If you really want to know how to deal with the water damage, you need to call Forest Crow (in the Black List). He has done it all. He might even be
at the December SEMNO GMC Owner's Network Meeting (formerly the Lunch Bunch).
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it might be.
Will,
Two things..
If you want to see how the floor is put in, give Nichole a call. Her floor is completely visible - at least at the moment.
If you really want to know how to deal with the water damage, you need to call Forest Crow (in the Black List). He has done it all. He might even be
at the December SEMNO GMC Owner's Network Meeting (formerly the Lunch Bunch).
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Thanks Matt. Mine is completely visible at the moment as well. (Minus the
bathroom and closet. The panel which runs from the door to the kitchen is
in the worst shape, but also houses frame bolts. In this case, i plan to
patch vs replace. The center of the wood is in fine shape.
Some good news - I was able to get the Onan running very well!
I'll contact Forest now.
> > Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
> >
> > Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging
> it might be.
>
> Will,
>
> Two things..
>
> If you want to see how the floor is put in, give Nichole a call. Her
> floor is completely visible - at least at the moment.
>
> If you really want to know how to deal with the water damage, you need to
> call Forest Crow (in the Black List). He has done it all. He might even be
> at the December SEMNO GMC Owner's Network Meeting (formerly the Lunch
> Bunch).
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
bathroom and closet. The panel which runs from the door to the kitchen is
in the worst shape, but also houses frame bolts. In this case, i plan to
patch vs replace. The center of the wood is in fine shape.
Some good news - I was able to get the Onan running very well!
I'll contact Forest now.
> > Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
> >
> > Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging
> it might be.
>
> Will,
>
> Two things..
>
> If you want to see how the floor is put in, give Nichole a call. Her
> floor is completely visible - at least at the moment.
>
> If you really want to know how to deal with the water damage, you need to
> call Forest Crow (in the Black List). He has done it all. He might even be
> at the December SEMNO GMC Owner's Network Meeting (formerly the Lunch
> Bunch).
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
Will. Replacing a full panel gets hard do to having to pull so much out to get access. The only full panel that I've replace has been the one under the right passenger seat. A router, or a dado head on a table saw will be required. When removing the Torx drive floor screws. Put the Torx drive socket in the screw. Then hit it briskly a few times with a medium size hammer before trying to remove. Or you WILL twist it off. I'm sure you know how I know that fact. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale.
________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 7:56 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Floor repair.
Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2 inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2017 7:56 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Floor repair.
Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2 inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
To remove whole panels (I removed all of them) an impact driver is almost a necessity. Those screws are not stainless and have galled in the aluminum
and are hell to remove without an impact. The impact makes quick work of them. It's an indespensible tool. An air compressor with a fine blower nozzle
helps a lot as well as the screws are countersunk an the heads are filled with years of sawdust and debris. Blow them out after picking at them with a
pick to ensure that the to driver fits all the way down in there so you don't strip the screws.
The rear panels are also glued down with panel bond adhesive.
The rear panels extend under the wheel wells so they have to come out to remove the floor panel.
If you can cut and route a panel to fill go that route, or epoxy, either works.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
and are hell to remove without an impact. The impact makes quick work of them. It's an indespensible tool. An air compressor with a fine blower nozzle
helps a lot as well as the screws are countersunk an the heads are filled with years of sawdust and debris. Blow them out after picking at them with a
pick to ensure that the to driver fits all the way down in there so you don't strip the screws.
The rear panels are also glued down with panel bond adhesive.
The rear panels extend under the wheel wells so they have to come out to remove the floor panel.
If you can cut and route a panel to fill go that route, or epoxy, either works.
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
Here's how to get the screws out:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/204505142?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl_21yrfh1wIV1bXACh3_zQRJEAQYASABEgLtZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKD-rtK34dcCFU1XAQodzusAVQ
And a set of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-in-Steel-Torx-Security-Bit-Set-7-Piece-DWA1TS-7V/301313336
You might find them a bit less on eBay too.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/204505142?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl_21yrfh1wIV1bXACh3_zQRJEAQYASABEgLtZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKD-rtK34dcCFU1XAQodzusAVQ
And a set of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-in-Steel-Torx-Security-Bit-Set-7-Piece-DWA1TS-7V/301313336
You might find them a bit less on eBay too.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
I much prefer these
[I'm]https://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/9261J_P&$prodImageMedium$[/img]
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
[I'm]https://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/9261J_P&$prodImageMedium$[/img]
--
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
While i appreciate the additional insight, you've reaffirmed the ease of
epoxy over the replacement of a board. I will wood harden the floor today,
and seek epoxy over the next few days.
Thank you all for your input!
-Will
> I much prefer these
> [I'm]https://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/
> 9261J_P&$prodImageMedium$[/img]
> --
> Justin Brady
> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
epoxy over the replacement of a board. I will wood harden the floor today,
and seek epoxy over the next few days.
Thank you all for your input!
-Will
> I much prefer these
> [I'm]https://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/
> 9261J_P&$prodImageMedium$[/img]
> --
> Justin Brady
> http://www.thegmcrv.com/
> 1976 Palm Beach 455
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
manual (no air compressor required).
You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
while also providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much
less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force
that is equally applied.
They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
-Dave
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 9:05 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair.
Here's how to get the screws out:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/2
04505142?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gc
lid=EAIaIQobChMIl_21yrfh1wIV1bXACh3_zQRJEAQYASABEgLtZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
&dclid=CKD-rtK34dcCFU1XAQodzusAVQ
And a set of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-in-Steel-Torx-Security-Bit-Set-7-Pi
ece-DWA1TS-7V/301313336
You might find them a bit less on eBay too.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
manual (no air compressor required).
You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
while also providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much
less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force
that is equally applied.
They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
-Dave
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of
Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 9:05 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair.
Here's how to get the screws out:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/2
04505142?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gc
lid=EAIaIQobChMIl_21yrfh1wIV1bXACh3_zQRJEAQYASABEgLtZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
&dclid=CKD-rtK34dcCFU1XAQodzusAVQ
And a set of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-in-Steel-Torx-Security-Bit-Set-7-Pi
ece-DWA1TS-7V/301313336
You might find them a bit less on eBay too.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
> For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
> manual (no air compressor required).
>
> You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw, while also
> providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally
> applied.
>
> They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode (403)
> Pittsburgh, PA
Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to
hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of
us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they
used to be. Just like everything else.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> manual (no air compressor required).
>
> You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw, while also
> providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally
> applied.
>
> They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode (403)
> Pittsburgh, PA
Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to
hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of
us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they
used to be. Just like everything else.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Added to the Xmas list. I don't have one of those!
> > For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
> > manual (no air compressor required).
> >
> > You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
> simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
> while also
> > providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of
> stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally
> > applied.
> >
> > They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
> weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode (403)
> > Pittsburgh, PA
>
> Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can
> tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to
> hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen
> any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
>
> They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
>
> The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more
> of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of
> us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so
> finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they
> used to be. Just like everything else.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> > For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
> > manual (no air compressor required).
> >
> > You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
> simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
> while also
> > providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of
> stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally
> > applied.
> >
> > They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
> weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
> >
> > -Dave
> > 1978 Transmode (403)
> > Pittsburgh, PA
>
> Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can
> tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to
> hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen
> any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
>
> They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
>
> The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more
> of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of
> us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so
> finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they
> used to be. Just like everything else.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
My experience with the hand-held impact tools, they tend to break the tips off Philips head screws. Other than that, nice to hae around.
Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
Those bits that come with the inexpensive Hand Impact drivers are pretty
much worthless. I have two hand impact drivers, a 3/8 drive, and a 1/2"
drive. They both were purchased back in my motorcycle repair days. The 3/8
drive has the square drive projecting from the handle, and bits that fit
onto the square drive like a socket. They are very high quality and hold up
very well.
The 1/2 inch drive has a chuck that fits the square drive, and the small
bits go in the chuck. The small bits are of poor quality and break
frequently. I might consider them consumables. Lots of spares are needed.
The main thing to remember, is to keep down pressure on the handle, and
don't let your skin creep up onto the hammer striking area. Make sure to be
square and plumb before you strike with the hammer. They will take Japanese
motorcycle case screws out when nothing else will work. Be sure to exactly
match the bit to the screw heads. There is Phillips, Reed & Prince,
Posi-drive, and possibly more, as well as U.S.S., D.I.N., and I.S.O. tapers
on the heads.
What I know.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> My experience with the hand-held impact tools, they tend to break the tips
> off Philips head screws. Other than that, nice to hae around.
> Tom
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
much worthless. I have two hand impact drivers, a 3/8 drive, and a 1/2"
drive. They both were purchased back in my motorcycle repair days. The 3/8
drive has the square drive projecting from the handle, and bits that fit
onto the square drive like a socket. They are very high quality and hold up
very well.
The 1/2 inch drive has a chuck that fits the square drive, and the small
bits go in the chuck. The small bits are of poor quality and break
frequently. I might consider them consumables. Lots of spares are needed.
The main thing to remember, is to keep down pressure on the handle, and
don't let your skin creep up onto the hammer striking area. Make sure to be
square and plumb before you strike with the hammer. They will take Japanese
motorcycle case screws out when nothing else will work. Be sure to exactly
match the bit to the screw heads. There is Phillips, Reed & Prince,
Posi-drive, and possibly more, as well as U.S.S., D.I.N., and I.S.O. tapers
on the heads.
What I know.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
> My experience with the hand-held impact tools, they tend to break the tips
> off Philips head screws. Other than that, nice to hae around.
> Tom
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
