Just a side note if you plan to do your own brake lines or oil lines that
use a double flare. do not cut the line with a tubing cutter. it rolls
over the edge just enough to make it difficult to make a good flare. Use a
carbide cutoff tool to cut off the tubing and than a single cut file in a
vise to get perfectly square ends.
>Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
>INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
>I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
>designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
>is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
>foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
>the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
>coach)?
>And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
>more about this than I do right now
), might it not be wise to convert to
>a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
>xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
>the engine coolant.
>
>I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
>steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
>anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
>stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
>If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
>Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
>art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
>against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
>of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
>here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use
form?
>
>Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
>there, done that).
>Dick
>
>
>
>>Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
>>cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
>>transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
>>minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
>>side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
>>thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
>>size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
>>interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
>>this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
>>connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
>>the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
>>check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
>>protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
>>across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
>>radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
>>make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
>>holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
>>GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
>>trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
>>about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
>>are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
>>ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
>>dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
>>welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
>>much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
>>floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
>>all for this area. Chuck
>>
>>
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
use a double flare. do not cut the line with a tubing cutter. it rolls
over the edge just enough to make it difficult to make a good flare. Use a
carbide cutoff tool to cut off the tubing and than a single cut file in a
vise to get perfectly square ends.
>Chuck, Are you telling me to eliminate the oil and xmission fluid cooling
>INTEGRAL to the factory rad and ADD separate coolers for these two functions?
>I agree that separating these will enhance the engine cooling the rad is
>designed to achieve (by taking out the heat from the xmission and oil) but
>is there enough room up there for two more coils? And if those new coils go
>foreward of the rad, isn't there the potential for air flow restriction to
>the rad (and the A/C condenser which is already foreward of the rad on my
>coach)?
>And, if that IS your recommendation (and I suspect you know a hell of a lot
>more about this than I do right now
), might it not be wise to convert to>a rad NOT having the separate cooling chambers for the now relocated oil and
>xmission fluid cooling, thereby gaining that space for more heat xfer for
>the engine coolant.
>
>I find that I'm going to need a LOT of steel (or, better yet, STAINLESS
>steel) line (brake, hydraulic, gas, etc.) replacements. Have you -- or
>anyone else -- acquired the tools for bending and double flaring steel (or
>stainless) to allow you to form and flare your own lines from bulk material.
>If so, how big a pain was it to learn the tricks to satisfactorily do this?
>Is it REALLY aa "black art" better left to an "expert?" If it's NOT a black
>art, the cost of the tools and fixtures MAY quickly evaporate when measured
>against purchasing already made up lines. In the alternative, perhaps one
>of you can steer me to one of the competent and reputable GMC suppliers in
>here who doesn't want one's first born for these items in a ready-to-use
form?
>
>Looking forward to your continued input (and that of others who have been
>there, done that).
>Dick
>
>
>
>>Check the motor mounts! If you replace the Radiator leave off the oil
>>cooler at the bottom. Just have it removed. Add auxiliary oil cooler,
>>transmission cooler. If you don't do this then change the hoses at a
>>minimum and re route them away from the exhaust manifold on the right
>>side. Clean the recovery tank and replace the lines. Be careful. This
>>thing will crack easily. Be sure to add a screen mesh cover about 1/4
>>size squares to the bottom to protect the two coolers. If you are
>>interested in more air to the carburetor you should consider "RAM AIR"
>>this can be accomplished by adding air scoop at the grill area and
>>connecting it to the air intake of the carburetor's air cleaner. Change
>>the air cleaner out to a K and N (reusable). While all this is undone,
>>check to see if your battery cable has been damaged or the plastic
>>protection covering needs to be put on or replaced. This cable runs
>>across the front of your radiator at the bottom. If you take the
>>radiator out you will need to remove the grill. VERY CAREFULLY. Then
>>make a piece to attach to each side of the two fenders to assist in
>>holding the grill stable. This is a weak place on the front of the
>>GMC. If you take the radiator out it comes straight down not too much
>>trouble, I used a small floor jack. The coach must be on JACK STANDS
>>about 24 inches up. Check the battery compartment in the front. If you
>>are going to change out this arrangement make the parts up and have them
>>ready to install. Mine are made of 1/4 inch thick steel. They can be
>>dropped from the bottom. The bolts to secure the battery are also
>>welded to the sides instead of moveable. The top is moveable and it is
>>much easier. Don't forget to put in holes for drips, either a wooden
>>floor or fiberglass the entire thing with the resin. I think that is
>>all for this area. Chuck
>>
>>
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach
