Fitech issues and the resolution

S

skip hartline

Member
Sep 9, 2011
518
5
18
Evening all, Haven't been on here much lately, not had a chance to use the beast much.
A couple of weeks ago went camping, only half an hour away, so not much real hard running. Got all the stuff out and went to part the beast and
wouldn't come off of idle with any load ie putting in gear, turning wheel, AC on just would not keep running. Checked fuel delivery to the Fitech and
was fine just would not move. I had my original, now spare Fitech, installed and crank and ran fine. This unit had over 385 hours run time and no
problems that were it's fault, the one that went "bad" had less than 9 hours on it. I put on the new one only because I had the manifold off for oil
leaks and thought it would be better and have a lot of the problems worked out Got my call from Fitech today and they said the trouble codes said IAC
problem and ignition interference or something like that, and I could have probably just clear the codes and would have ran. They cleared the code and
test ran on their test motor and all checked out good. i believe the IAC problem was the vacumn line to the shift modulator and vacumn gauge had come
off and the IAC couldn't handle the adjustment. Now here's the head scratcher the ignition interference. I purposely had extended the wire for the
tach signal with shielded cable and ran it down the left side of the manifold to avoid this. I checked it out and I noticed across the front of the
manifold where the fitech harness lay there was still quite a bit of the blue tach signal wire from the factory not shielded and there was that great
big 4ga cable I had install for my new high output one wire alternator I got from Jim Bounds, which when used with neat isolator/combiner he
recommended, works great and seems to keep the batteries from overcharging. I guess I had the "perfect storm" when I had the vacumn line come off and
the alternator must have shot a high amperage surge across the output and the fitech said "I don't think so". What I'm trying to say if anyone gets
these codes these are good places to look. Also Fitech checked it out for NC even with it being 8 months out of warranty and is paying the freight
back. Just thought someone might remember this if they ever have these problems.
Skip Hartline
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
What s your system voltage with that 1 wire alternator? Remember that they do not compensate for line loss OR diode loss across the isolator. Might
be lower like only in 12V range where 14V is more typical for “12V” systems, especially aftermarket electronics.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
The dash gauge and the fitech display both run 13.6-13.8 usually.
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
Perhaps a 12VDC surge/transient voltage protection device on the Fitech power wire might be a good idea.
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
 
Automotive power can be really dirty, full of spikes and glitches. Getting positive power close to the battery is your cleanest power as the battery
is a big electrical filter... but always get your ground from the engine block for something like EFI systems.

I would use your Ignition power to operate the coil of a cube relay, which will switch battery power to the EFI system.

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Oh Man I hope FiTech doesn't need voltage protection. Thats like #1 priority on any automotive device!
If they cheaped out on that, it's junk
________________________________
From: Burl Vibert
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2021 12:12 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Fitech issues and the resolution

Perhaps a 12VDC surge/transient voltage protection device on the Fitech power wire might be a good idea.
--
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
I have got the ignition circuit through a bosch style relay to take all the load I can take off of the ignition switch. The old one was on there for
over 385 hours with no problems of it's own. Must have relocated some wiring when I put on the new unit. All my problems before was all fuel delivery,
went to hydramat in the rear tank and and dedicated pumps on each tank and return line from the fitech to the tanks and really had no problems.
Skip Hartline
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
I’m going to chime in here.
For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the FiTech.
They tell me I need 10 volt to operate the Fi Tech. On the restart I do dip slightly below that but it does the same on a cold start
with no problem.
My alternator charges at 13.4 and the battery is around 12.7.
If the engines sets any length at all after driving I am having problems on the hot restart.
Thinking of getting a better alternator, dual batteries, ??
I like Carl’s idea of putting the gas lines on the outside of the frame.
Any ideas.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>
> I have got the ignition circuit through a bosch style relay to take all the load I can take off of the ignition switch. The old one was on there for
> over 385 hours with no problems of it's own. Must have relocated some wiring when I put on the new unit. All my problems before was all fuel delivery,
> went to hydramat in the rear tank and and dedicated pumps on each tank and return line from the fitech to the tanks and really had no problems.
> Skip Hartline
> --
> 74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
> 3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
> Springfield Distributor,
> 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
> I’m going to chime in here.
> For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the FiTech.
> They tell me I need 10 volt to operate the Fi Tech. On the restart I do dip slightly below that but it does the same on a cold start
> with no problem.
> My alternator charges at 13.4 and the battery is around 12.7.
> If the engines sets any length at all after driving I am having problems on the hot restart.
> Thinking of getting a better alternator, dual batteries, ??
> I like Carl’s idea of putting the gas lines on the outside of the frame.
> Any ideas.
>
> Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
> 1977 GMC Eleganza ll
> GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
> GMCShades
> www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

Gary,
Do you have a return line from the FiTech to the tank or to the fuel filler or to wherever? Is there a return line of some kind off of the TB?
Describe your return. Also, are yo aware of the FiTech Facebook Forum?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Sounds to me like an electrical problem. Poor grounding is the FIRST PLACE
to look. When you have confirmed that you have a good ground, then look at
why you have less than 10 volts in your supply. That figure should always
be 12.8 volts or as high as 14.0 volts. Look at static voltage in your
batteries. Should be 2.2 volts per cell × 6 cells in a perfect world. Since
we don't live there, we have to be content with 12.8 or so. If, you have a
dragging starter, high resistance connections or poorly sized conductors,
you might drop some voltage there. But -10 volts is not cool.
Unacceptable. No 12 volt stuff is going to be happy with that. Fix that,
and your hot start problem will ride that train with the fix.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> > I’m going to chime in here.
> > For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the
> FiTech.
> > They tell me I need 10 volt to operate the Fi Tech. On the restart I do
> dip slightly below that but it does the same on a cold start
> > with no problem.
> > My alternator charges at 13.4 and the battery is around 12.7.
> > If the engines sets any length at all after driving I am having problems
> on the hot restart.
> > Thinking of getting a better alternator, dual batteries, ??
> > I like Carl’s idea of putting the gas lines on the outside of the frame.
> > Any ideas.
> >
> > Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
> > 1977 GMC Eleganza ll
> > GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
> > GMCShades
> > www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/
>
> Gary,
> Do you have a return line from the FiTech to the tank or to the fuel
> filler or to wherever? Is there a return line of some kind off of the TB?
> Describe your return. Also, are yo aware of the FiTech Facebook Forum?
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
There is a return line off the fuel reservoir to my gas fill line.
Yes, I did see the Facebook FiTech. No recent postings in the last year or so but I didn’t try posting either.
Seems like the high pressure line between the fuel reservoir and throttle body is where it is earring up.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>

>> I’m going to chime in here.
>> For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the FiTech.
>> They tell me I need 10 volt to operate the Fi Tech. On the restart I do dip slightly below that but it does the same on a cold start
>> with no problem.
>> My alternator charges at 13.4 and the battery is around 12.7.
>> If the engines sets any length at all after driving I am having problems on the hot restart.
>> Thinking of getting a better alternator, dual batteries, ??
>> I like Carl’s idea of putting the gas lines on the outside of the frame.
>> Any ideas.
>>
>> Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
>> 1977 GMC Eleganza ll
>> GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
>> GMCShades
>> www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/
>
> Gary,
> Do you have a return line from the FiTech to the tank or to the fuel filler or to wherever? Is there a return line of some kind off of the TB?
> Describe your return. Also, are yo aware of the FiTech Facebook Forum?
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Yes I have a return line, the rear righ port on the fitech id designated as return the rest are inlets, the PO had left a nipple with a cap on it he
had brazed into the fill neck and ran it to there, worked great. I think some use the vent on one of the tanks somehow return it there not sure
exactly how. I use the airtex inline pump, if you need model i'll need to go look at my spare. The biggest gain was was I went to the Holley Hydramat
the small rectangular one.
Skip Hartline
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
Does NOT sound like a fuel problem. Sounds more electrical in nature. Your
fuel system in good shape, should work well just as it is. Your low
voltage, on the other hand literally screams "Problems herin" to me. I
would fix that before messing with the fuel system.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

> Yes I have a return line, the rear righ port on the fitech id designated
> as return the rest are inlets, the PO had left a nipple with a cap on it he
> had brazed into the fill neck and ran it to there, worked great. I think
> some use the vent on one of the tanks somehow return it there not sure
> exactly how. I use the airtex inline pump, if you need model i'll need to
> go look at my spare. The biggest gain was was I went to the Holley Hydramat
> the small rectangular one.
> Skip Hartline
> --
> 74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
> 3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
> Springfield Distributor,
> 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
I agree. Thanks for the advice.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>
> Does NOT sound like a fuel problem. Sounds more electrical in nature. Your
> fuel system in good shape, should work well just as it is. Your low
> voltage, on the other hand literally screams "Problems herin" to me. I
> would fix that before messing with the fuel system.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>

>>
>> Yes I have a return line, the rear righ port on the fitech id designated
>> as return the rest are inlets, the PO had left a nipple with a cap on it he
>> had brazed into the fill neck and ran it to there, worked great. I think
>> some use the vent on one of the tanks somehow return it there not sure
>> exactly how. I use the airtex inline pump, if you need model i'll need to
>> go look at my spare. The biggest gain was was I went to the Holley Hydramat
>> the small rectangular one.
>> Skip Hartline
>> --
>> 74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
>> 3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
>> Springfield Distributor,
>> 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
> I’m going to chime in here.
> For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the FiTech.

I had a hot restart issue with my FiTech. The symptoms seemed like it should have been electrical. After looking at everything electrical, I put a
fuel pressure gauge on the system, and watched the pressure on hot shut off. I watched the pressure peg the needle over 150psi, and would not start. I
took a wrench and cracked the outlet on the TB to release the pressure and it started immediately. Ran that test a couple more times with same
presure release and immediate start. Pressure had increased high enough to hold the injectors closed, so no fuel. Release the pressure and it starts
just fine. There must have been something wrong with the internal pressure regulator, because after doing that a couple of times on my way home from
Florida, it just cleared itself up. No issues since. So, maybe just try cracking the outlet at a no start and see if that does it. You should see a
little squirt of gas when you do this.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
 
Had the same issue with the FCC, almost like a vapor lock, Went to a high pressure pump with return line and no more of that issue. I heard some of
the early FCCs had this issue.
Skip Hartline
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
I had tried that in the past and didn’t work.
I am going down to below 9 volts when I start the engine which works when the engine is cold but not hot.
Today I looked at my starter and noticed a loose connection but that didn’t solve the problem.
Planning on isolating the leads coming off the battery … starter, fuel injection, and see what is taking all that voltage draw on startup.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>

>> I’m going to chime in here.
>> For the last few years I have had an issue on a hot restart with the FiTech.
>
> I had a hot restart issue with my FiTech. The symptoms seemed like it should have been electrical. After looking at everything electrical, I put a
> fuel pressure gauge on the system, and watched the pressure on hot shut off. I watched the pressure peg the needle over 150psi, and would not start. I
> took a wrench and cracked the outlet on the TB to release the pressure and it started immediately. Ran that test a couple more times with same
> presure release and immediate start. Pressure had increased high enough to hold the injectors closed, so no fuel. Release the pressure and it starts
> just fine. There must have been something wrong with the internal pressure regulator, because after doing that a couple of times on my way home from
> Florida, it just cleared itself up. No issues since. So, maybe just try cracking the outlet at a no start and see if that does it. You should see a
> little squirt of gas when you do this.
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Skip,
Not sure what you did.
Right now I have the high pressure pump in the FCC with a return line. How did you change that configuration.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

>
> Had the same issue with the FCC, almost like a vapor lock, Went to a high pressure pump with return line and no more of that issue. I heard some of
> the early FCCs had this issue.
> Skip Hartline
> --
> 74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
> 3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
> Springfield Distributor,
> 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
I am using the airtex high pressure pump on the side of the frame rail, without only 5 ft of hose from the pickup to it with high pressure line up to
the fitech I know the ideal way is the high pressure pump in the tank but that would require baffles for the slosh factor and high pressure line the
whole run and harder to service. I believe with the return line continually sending fuel back to the tanks it keeps the fitech unit cooler, and fitech
tech confirmed that with me.I have the fuel pump control set so it runs all the time, I believe there was some special setting for the FCC. My primary
pump and hydramat is on the rear tank because it's the one with the good sending unit. I have a second pump on the front tank which I can changed to
with a HD toggle switch if I have to. They are simply plumbed together with a tee the airtex have built in check valves in the outlet so they don't
backfeed through each other. But have never gone that long between fill ups to need it. I still check everytime like a pilot to make sure it works
though.
Skip Hartline
--
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
 
I must say that putting the fuel lines on the OUTSIDE of the frame is a bad idea from a safety standpoint in the event of a side impact. Engineers did
what the did for a reason. . . .
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
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