First question.

B

brian1

New member
May 16, 2011
414
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Hey gang B here. Since I first introduced myself a while back I have been
doing a lot of researching this GMC stuff. By that I mean reading past
posts that you people have been posting for a long time. Love the fact you
can search a subject and pull up tons of past posts and information on it.

But there seems to be many different opinions on everything. That's a good
thing but for a newbie it can make your head spin. I'll give you an example
the gas tanks. I have read you should take them to a radiator shop to have
them cleaned. Sounds logical. Then I read you can do it yourself by using
this method or that method . Sounds logical. Then I read you dont want to
remove the rust because it will rust twice as bad. Hard to decide which
advice to follow if you know what I mean.

I have seen several videos regarding jacking up your motorhome. One said GM
mechanics know that you should jack it up here otherwise you can break the
windshield. Another one said you have to jack up the back first or you can
break a windshield. Then I read post that said that's b.s.

So my first question is what is the proper way to get this thing off the
ground. I certainly don't want to bust a windshield trying to change the
oil.

Thanks
B
 
Brian
Before I give you a reply with advice please tell us what year GMC you own. Advice will vary depending which year you have.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick CO

>
> Hey gang B here. Since I first introduced myself a while back I have been
> doing a lot of researching this GMC stuff. By that I mean reading past
> posts that you people have been posting for a long time. Love the fact you
> can search a subject and pull up tons of past posts and information on it.
>
> But there seems to be many different opinions on everything. That's a good
> thing but for a newbie it can make your head spin. I'll give you an example
> the gas tanks. I have read you should take them to a radiator shop to have
> them cleaned. Sounds logical. Then I read you can do it yourself by using
> this method or that method . Sounds logical. Then I read you dont want to
> remove the rust because it will rust twice as bad. Hard to decide which
> advice to follow if you know what I mean.
>
> I have seen several videos regarding jacking up your motorhome. One said GM
> mechanics know that you should jack it up here otherwise you can break the
> windshield. Another one said you have to jack up the back first or you can
> break a windshield. Then I read post that said that's b.s.
>
> So my first question is what is the proper way to get this thing off the
> ground. I certainly don't want to bust a windshield trying to change the
> oil.
>
> Thanks
> B
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Hi Emery

Thanks for responding it's a 1973.

Brian

On Sunday, June 6, 2021, Emery Stora via Gmclist
wrote:

> Brian
> Before I give you a reply with advice please tell us what year GMC you
> own. Advice will vary depending which year you have.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick CO
>

> >
> > Hey gang B here. Since I first introduced myself a while back I have
> been
> > doing a lot of researching this GMC stuff. By that I mean reading past
> > posts that you people have been posting for a long time. Love the fact
> you
> > can search a subject and pull up tons of past posts and information on
> it.
> >
> > But there seems to be many different opinions on everything. That's a
> good
> > thing but for a newbie it can make your head spin. I'll give you an
> example
> > the gas tanks. I have read you should take them to a radiator shop to
> have
> > them cleaned. Sounds logical. Then I read you can do it yourself by
> using
> > this method or that method . Sounds logical. Then I read you dont want
> to
> > remove the rust because it will rust twice as bad. Hard to decide which
> > advice to follow if you know what I mean.
> >
> > I have seen several videos regarding jacking up your motorhome. One said
> GM
> > mechanics know that you should jack it up here otherwise you can break
> the
> > windshield. Another one said you have to jack up the back first or you
> can
> > break a windshield. Then I read post that said that's b.s.
> >
> > So my first question is what is the proper way to get this thing off the
> > ground. I certainly don't want to bust a windshield trying to change the
> > oil.
> >
> > Thanks
> > B
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
you have to weed through alot of opinions. If you search enough you will find some consistencies, and what I usually pay attention to is length of
ownership, and successful miles driven. Some people on this forum have driven their coaches 200,000+ miles, and I take their opinions over a new
owner. Some cases you just make your own choice and have to live with it good or bad.

as far as windshield and jacking, you just have to use common sense. it is best not to over-jack up one side or the other, but sometimes it is not
practical. Look up the proceedure on using a leaf spring or steel plate to keep the rear bogies from dropping to help the amount of height needed to
get off the ground and pay attention to full airbag jacking being hard on shocks. some people have had windshield cracks, and others have jacked
the crazy hell out of the sides of coach with no problems...

when at home, I use a 3.5 ton jack, and jack under bogies. If I have to use jack stands, they go under frame on each side of bogies. for the
front either lift the entire thing in middle crossmember, of if just working on one side, I jack the suspension up on that side until tire just comes
off ground. I try to limit how high I jack the coach to minimum height I need to do the work.

for oil changes, I use these ramps, they work so nice!!! big and kinda hard to store, but the benifits of these ramps outweigh that:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/wood-ramp-construction/p5006.html

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
> Hey gang B here. Since I first introduced myself a while back I have been doing a lot of researching this GMC stuff. By that I mean reading past
> posts that you people have been posting for a long time. Love the fact you can search a subject and pull up tons of past posts and information on
> it.
>
> But there seems to be many different opinions on everything. That's a good thing but for a newbie it can make your head spin. I'll give you an
> example the gas tanks. I have read you should take them to a radiator shop to have them cleaned. Sounds logical. Then I read you can do it yourself
> by using this method or that method . Sounds logical. Then I read you dont want to remove the rust because it will rust twice as bad. Hard to
> decide which advice to follow if you know what I mean.
>
> I have seen several videos regarding jacking up your motorhome. One said GM mechanics know that you should jack it up here otherwise you can break
> the windshield. Another one said you have to ja ck up the back first or you can break a windshield. Then I read post that said that's b.s.
>
> So my first question is what is the proper way to get this thing off the ground. I certainly don't want to bust a windshield trying to change the
> oil.
>
> Thanks
> B

Brian,

When you arrived, I suggested that you build a sigfile so we always know what you are dealing with as a coach. They are not all alike. '73s have
some special things to be aware of....

As to jacking, don't twist the coach.....
If all you are going to do is change the oil and grease the front end, Get a 3 ton floor jack and two good jack stands. Do this on pavement or BIG
wood boards. Jack under the center (see the two holes? They are a little right of center) of the engine cross member. (Not the radiator!!)
Put the jackstands in as far outboard as you can get them to be solid. (this varies with the top of the stand) Let the coach onto the stands, get
yourself clean then go an throw a fierce body check at the side of the coach. If it does not move, it is safe to go underneath it.

Now, in simple terms, (not because you are simple, but it is clearer this way) if you are jacking the rear, don't do it unless the front is on its
suspension. If you are jacking the front, only jack at the single center point of the engine cross member so the coach. This works if the coach is
on its rear tires or the bogies are blocked up.

Many coaches show damage from bad jacking or supporting. In the rear, the only really solid place is the bogie castings. If you need to lift the
rear, we can into that at a later date. If you search for "lifting the rear of the coach", you may find interesting reading.

As a standing safety measure, cut some 4x4 and 2x4s to stack under the bogie casting any time you working under the coach. The airsprings can (and
have) failed at any time and with no provocation.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
When in doubt, refer to the GM factory service manuals over Facebook. Seems in recent years the priority has been inverted.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
If you get the GMCMI Newsletter, I recently had an article in there
regarding proper jacking and blocking instructions. If you don't belong to
GMCMI, You should join, just for the technical articles, parts lists,
vendor references, etc.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Mon, Jun 7, 2021, 8:27 AM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> When in doubt, refer to the GM factory service manuals over Facebook.
> Seems in recent years the priority has been inverted.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Hi Jon

Thanks for responding and the advice. Going with the majority seems to be
the way to go. I went out and got a 4 ton jack and 6 ton jack stands. I
have seen several pics of people using wooden diy jack stands. Thought that
was a good idea but with the cost of lumber might be cheaper to by the
metal ones who knows. What I really want to do is get the whole thing up on
stands. I'm a bigger guy and need all the room I can get. Of course that
will probably piss off my neighbors but that wouldn't be the first time.

Then I can get the wheels off and really get a good look to see what I'm up
against. Next step would be to call my mechanic friend lol.

I'm have my $125.00 discounted case of amsoil (are you kidding). And my wix
oil filter. Both seem to be the the preferred choice from what I read.
That's step one of many to follow.

Thanks again for your input I appreciate it.

Brian

> you have to weed through alot of opinions. If you search enough you will
> find some consistencies, and what I usually pay attention to is length of
> ownership, and successful miles driven. Some people on this forum have
> driven their coaches 200,000+ miles, and I take their opinions over a new
> owner. Some cases you just make your own choice and have to live with it
> good or bad.
>
>
> as far as windshield and jacking, you just have to use common sense. it
> is best not to over-jack up one side or the other, but sometimes it is not
> practical. Look up the proceedure on using a leaf spring or steel plate
> to keep the rear bogies from dropping to help the amount of height needed to
> get off the ground and pay attention to full airbag jacking being hard on
> shocks. some people have had windshield cracks, and others have jacked
> the crazy hell out of the sides of coach with no problems...
>
>
> when at home, I use a 3.5 ton jack, and jack under bogies. If I have to
> use jack stands, they go under frame on each side of bogies. for the
> front either lift the entire thing in middle crossmember, of if just
> working on one side, I jack the suspension up on that side until tire just
> comes
> off ground. I try to limit how high I jack the coach to minimum height I
> need to do the work.
>
>
> for oil changes, I use these ramps, they work so nice!!! big and kinda
> hard to store, but the benifits of these ramps outweigh that:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/wood-ramp-construction/p5006.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
> When in doubt, refer to the GM factory service manuals over Facebook. Seems in recent years the priority has been inverted.

Brian,
Please believe this. To date I have seen three (that I know of) coaches that could have been recovered to be enjoyed turned into low value scrap
because the owner took the wrong advice. You might get answers you don't like here, but they will always be the result of real experience.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
For just changing the oil and filter, I have never jacked up my front end more than just a few inches. Enough to get my "self" far enough under the
rig to pull the plug and remove the filter. As time goes on, I suppose I will have to increase that vertical distance :lol: :lol: ) My first coach,
way back when, I was able to not jack it up at all. It must have had more clearance to ground "way back when".....yeah....that's the ticket.
--
Larry Nelson Springfield, MO
Ex GMC'er, then GM Busnut
now '77 Eleganza ARS WB0JOT
 
For oil changes on either of my 2 Avions (former), I used the simple plastic drive up ramps available at every auto parts store. Just be sure you have
a spotter because you will not be able to see them from the driver's seat.
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
> For oil changes on either of my 2 Avions (former), I used the simple
> plastic drive up ramps available at every auto parts store. Just be sure
> you have
> a spotter because you will not be able to see them from the driver's seat.
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Thanks for the info Thomas do you happen to know the height when it on the
ramp?

Brian

> For oil changes on either of my 2 Avions (former), I used the simple
> plastic drive up ramps available at every auto parts store. Just be sure
> you have
> a spotter because you will not be able to see them from the driver's seat.
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
The HF plastic ramps (one of the few HF tools that I like and own). They add 6”. You can, as I have, get in from the front for drain plug and in
from behind the passenger tire to get to the filter with no jacking or ramps. You really need the ramps to get under to grease the zerks on the front
end. Should be done each oil change and highly neglected. Also some are reached from top side and 4 more in rear suspension. Neglect and you are in
for BIG expense.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Slight thread hijack: Is there a link to the locations of all the
zerks somewhere so I don't miss any?

Stu

Quoting "John R. Lebetski" :

> You really need the ramps to get under to grease the zerks on the front
> end. Should be done each oil change and highly neglected. Also some
> are reached from top side and 4 more in rear suspension. Neglect and
> you are in
> for BIG expense.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
The Maintenace manual of course
________________________________
From: stu
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2021 11:08 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: First question.

Slight thread hijack: Is there a link to the locations of all the
zerks somewhere so I don't miss any?

Stu

Quoting "John R. Lebetski" :

> You really need the ramps to get under to grease the zerks on the front
> end. Should be done each oil change and highly neglected. Also some
> are reached from top side and 4 more in rear suspension. Neglect and
> you are in
> for BIG expense.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
 
Check the service manual; it shows all 14 originals.

>
> Slight thread hijack: Is there a link to the locations of all the
> zerks somewhere so I don't miss any?
>
> Stu
>
> Quoting "John R. Lebetski" :
>
> > You really need the ramps to get under to grease the zerks on the front
> > end. Should be done each oil change and highly neglected. Also some
> > are reached from top side and 4 more in rear suspension. Neglect and
> > you are in
> > for BIG expense.
> > --
> > John Lebetski
> > Woodstock, IL
> > 77 Eleganza II
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
Thanks John

On Thu, Jun 10, 2021, 8:28 AM John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> The HF plastic ramps (one of the few HF tools that I like and own). They
> add 6”. You can, as I have, get in from the front for drain plug and in
> from behind the passenger tire to get to the filter with no jacking or
> ramps. You really need the ramps to get under to grease the zerks on the
> front
> end. Should be done each oil change and highly neglected. Also some are
> reached from top side and 4 more in rear suspension. Neglect and you are in
> for BIG expense.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
 
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