Aaron,
I am one like Ken with designing and building a lot of my own circuits and parts which I do and did when I had a real job. Especially helpful when there is nothing available already built. Building your own can be very satisfying and sometimes less expensive. With a 30A Transfer switch available with a price range of $60 to $90 with some more on Ebay and 50A units slightly more, IMHO it is not cost effective building your own with getting all the correct parts, wiring, terminal and box to put it in and testing.
Do this search on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC2.A0.H1.XRV+automatic.TRS0&_nkw=rv+automatic+transfer+switch&_sacat=0
JR
>
> I'm going to reply back to multiple posts and people here.
>
> JR,
>
> Thanks for the links and the previous posts. I was considering a Progressive Dynamics switch until Ken got me started thinking about building my own -
> not sure which I will go with yet.
>
>
> Scott,
>
> 30A or 50A should not matter - for my coach it is the ground/connection neutral connection in the generator wiring (which is fine) but not when
> *combined* with the lack of a switched neutral wire coming from the generator, and the way my 2nd (rear) AC is wired into both shore power and
> generator power. As you can see from the various replies, there are other places where the ground and neutral wires can be connected.
>
> Since you have a 78 Royale - is there a breaker box for main power from the generator (mine has a 40amp breaker?) if so, is that breaker a single pole
> (black/hot wire only) or double pole (white/neutral wire is also wired into the breaker?) That's the issue for me. If that 40 amp breaker was double
> pole, I could turn that off and hook into shore power with tripping a GFI plug. The coachman owners manual does *not* show or mention the generator
> breaker panel as far as I can tell, but it is in the electrical coachman electrical drawings from bdub's website (I posted that link in my first
> post.)
>
> btw, I haven't really worked much with RV electrical, so I've been learning - even having two 120vac sources was initially confusing to me. I just had
> to get methodicall about it (as everyone says to do) and diagram out all the boxes and connections to wrap my head around this. Thank god I'm not
> aware of any problems in my 12 volt wiring....
>
>
>
> John L
> I have found my problem, but for what it is worth, my Royale didn't come with an electric hot water heater, just gas and engine heat. I feel like
> that was probably the norm on Royales and Birchavens (both uplifted by Coachman) but I'm not 100% sure.
> With regards to why the wiring is the way it is, I suspect what J.R. "powerjon" probably knows - that's just the way they wired them in the 70's, and
> that was up to code at that time.
>
>
> John S.
>
> I wanted to double check, before I replied back - there is no evidence of a transfer in my switch, nor is there any place where it seems like one was
> tied in. I've got my rear dinette mostly removed so I have access to trace all the wiring. Thanks for the 2 cents though, I would've been delighted to
> find one!
>
>
>
> Terry,
>
> What I meant is - "there should not be a ground/neutral connection in your coach when you are plugged into shore power." Yes, there should be a
> ground/neutral connection at the primary breaker box associated with the shore power.
>
>
> Okay, I think that catches me up.
>
> cheers,
>
>
>
> --
> 78 Royale, rear dinette
>
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