> Evening all,
> Finally got around to removing and checking out the governer. To all that thought I was a little "off" thinking I had one with a removable cover
> you were right, I was wrong and request you consider my CRS is playing tricks on me. I thought for sure when I replaced the tranny a few years ago
> it had that type of governer. I did find that it had like a gunky stuff coming from the weights and the plunger/piston was a little sticky, weep
> hole clear on the plunger. Yes, I went ahead and changed the gear. The little that I got to check it it seemed to shift fine, best I can tell by
> looking at tach, when it shifts good it is usually so smooth you can't tell without the towd. Now after a short test run I found that the left front
> caliper hanging up, always trust your wife's sense of smell. They are already 80MM so I'll replace both, I bought the hoses a while back, guess it's
> a good time to change them too, I've read there is a possibility that the hose has an internal collapse and not letting the fluid release, I was
> able to pry the puck back. In the greater scheme of things pads and calipers are not that expensive. Also a good time to use the grease fittings and
> get some fresh grease in the hubs, 90% of the work will be already done. Just thought I would bring all you fellow GMCers that gave me suggestions
> and comments the update I promised.
> Skip Hartline
If your hubs have grease fittings, that means it is not a stock set-up and the fittings have been added, either by someone who drilled the hubs and
drilled/ground the bearing spacer, or bought and installed new hubs that have been modified by Dave L or hubs from Jimmy K. In any case, do not apply
grease to the fittings without first doing the following. Failure to do this means the hydraulic pressure applied by the grease gun will push the
inner seal out of its setting and allow dirt and water to infiltrate contaminating the bearings and shortening their life.
You must first remove any covering over the Axle shaft nut. That may mean removing the wheels to get the center cap off. Put the wheel back on and
lower the coach. place a socket on the axle nut and remove most of the way from the axle allowing it to remain on the axle a few threads. Using a
plastic hammer, gently persuade the axle on the end of the nut so that the axle slides through the hub until the seal surface on the INSIDE is clear
of the inner seal. Now you can apply grease to the fitting. Pump grease through until it pushes old grease out and you can see new grease come
through. Now screw the axle nut back in and apply the specified amount of torque to that nut until the cotter pin can be inserted. Again, doing it
this way will keep the hydraulic pressure of the grease from moving the grease seal from its intended position. HTH
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
> Finally got around to removing and checking out the governer. To all that thought I was a little "off" thinking I had one with a removable cover
> you were right, I was wrong and request you consider my CRS is playing tricks on me. I thought for sure when I replaced the tranny a few years ago
> it had that type of governer. I did find that it had like a gunky stuff coming from the weights and the plunger/piston was a little sticky, weep
> hole clear on the plunger. Yes, I went ahead and changed the gear. The little that I got to check it it seemed to shift fine, best I can tell by
> looking at tach, when it shifts good it is usually so smooth you can't tell without the towd. Now after a short test run I found that the left front
> caliper hanging up, always trust your wife's sense of smell. They are already 80MM so I'll replace both, I bought the hoses a while back, guess it's
> a good time to change them too, I've read there is a possibility that the hose has an internal collapse and not letting the fluid release, I was
> able to pry the puck back. In the greater scheme of things pads and calipers are not that expensive. Also a good time to use the grease fittings and
> get some fresh grease in the hubs, 90% of the work will be already done. Just thought I would bring all you fellow GMCers that gave me suggestions
> and comments the update I promised.
> Skip Hartline
If your hubs have grease fittings, that means it is not a stock set-up and the fittings have been added, either by someone who drilled the hubs and
drilled/ground the bearing spacer, or bought and installed new hubs that have been modified by Dave L or hubs from Jimmy K. In any case, do not apply
grease to the fittings without first doing the following. Failure to do this means the hydraulic pressure applied by the grease gun will push the
inner seal out of its setting and allow dirt and water to infiltrate contaminating the bearings and shortening their life.
You must first remove any covering over the Axle shaft nut. That may mean removing the wheels to get the center cap off. Put the wheel back on and
lower the coach. place a socket on the axle nut and remove most of the way from the axle allowing it to remain on the axle a few threads. Using a
plastic hammer, gently persuade the axle on the end of the nut so that the axle slides through the hub until the seal surface on the INSIDE is clear
of the inner seal. Now you can apply grease to the fitting. Pump grease through until it pushes old grease out and you can see new grease come
through. Now screw the axle nut back in and apply the specified amount of torque to that nut until the cotter pin can be inserted. Again, doing it
this way will keep the hydraulic pressure of the grease from moving the grease seal from its intended position. HTH
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
