Exhaust Manifold

dick kennedy

New member
Jun 1, 1998
181
0
0
I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked several
of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.

I'll weld it if all else fails but I would prefer a used one that I could
just get refaced. Does anyone have one they'll part with or know of a good
source?

If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them coated but I
don't have the time to do that now.

I know there were earlier threads regarding headers but not much discussion
regarding the stock cast iron manifolds.

I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new opinions
on this subject.

Dick Kennedy
 
My 2 cents worth.

Buy coated Doug Thorley headers and be done with the exhaust manifold
problem. I am not on my usual email program so I can't give you the
phone number right now but if you need it, let me know

Russ Bethel
rbethel
1976 Glenbrook

>
>
> I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked
several
> of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.
>
> I'll weld it if all else fails but I would prefer a used one that I
could
> just get refaced. Does anyone have one they'll part with or know of
a good
> source?
>
> If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them
coated but I
> don't have the time to do that now.
>
> I know there were earlier threads regarding headers but not much
discussion
> regarding the stock cast iron manifolds.
>
> I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new
opinions
> on this subject.
>
> Dick Kennedy
>
>
>

==
Russ Bethel
rbethel

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free #yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 
Dick,
I'm doing some restoration work on a coach that has just had a complete
header & 3" pipe system installed. Call me & I'll give you the # of the
customer, I know he wants to sell his manifolds. 1-877-275-4462

Jim Bounds www.gmccoop.com

>
> I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked several
> of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.
>
> I'll weld it if all else fails but I would prefer a used one that I could
> just get refaced. Does anyone have one they'll part with or know of a good
> source?
>
> If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them coated but I
> don't have the time to do that now.
>
> I know there were earlier threads regarding headers but not much discussion
> regarding the stock cast iron manifolds.
>
> I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new opinions
> on this subject.
>
> Dick Kennedy
 
Bill,

I finally located a used exhaust manifold at a local salvage yard. I paid
$40 for the part then another $40 to have it milled flat. When I got it
installed I could then hear the left side spitting so I took it off and had
it milled too. It was worse than the right so the machinist charged me $45
for it. Our local GMC dealer quoted $225 each so I assume new ones are
still available. I got everything in and torqued last nite. It sounds
great but I don't have wheels on the ground yet.

My current crisis is now under control and my present efforts are directed
towards leaving on vacation so I haven't decided about the longer term.
Anyway hang onto those manifolds because either I or someone else will be
needing them. Have the manifolds you have been machined flat recently or
are they slightly warped like mine were. I don't know if the manifolds I
have are 23 year old originals or if they have been replaced before.

>From what I've read having the manifolds ceramic coated makes them run much
cooler. This would help lower underhood temperatures as well as well as
greatly extend the life of the manifolds but it's a major expense over a
system which has run just fine for more than twenty years. I'll be running
about 5000 miles over the next two or three weeks. If I don't develop any
manifold problems I'll probably just put off a decision until the mufflers
and tail pipe needs replaced then decide what makes most sense at that time.
At this point I think I have most of the potential reliability factors under
control but I already have major time and money invested in this old beast
and haven't even tackled any of the cosmetics yet. Maybe next year I can
make it pretty!

Some other information that may benefit others--

I have also replaced all of the brake lines and hoses. I started before the
stainless line thread came up so I went conventional, not stainless. I just
got all of the lines bled last nite. Will be making a test drive very soon.

I replaced the engine oil cooler lines with new ones. When I got the old
ones off they were deterioriated enough that I could break off the ends with
my fingers. Had these lines broken on the road it could have been disastrous
for the engine and possibly have caused a fire. Check these carefully!!

Also on my last test run the engine and undercarriage came back covered with
oil. The metal lines to the transmission cooler had rusted and developed a
pinhole leak. This was also a potential disaster in the making so check
these carefully.

I also made a post sometime ago about poor handling. The coach has Bilstein
shocks. The ones on the rear were totally shot. The leading right rear wheel
was actually seized solid and the others were too loose. After calling
several dealers without gaining any useful information I called Bilstein
direct. They immediately sent me an entire new set even though I couldn'r
prove I was the original purchaser. Chalk up some points for Bilstein.

The new shocks improved the quality of the ride dramatically but didn't help
the handling problem. I checked the rear bushings and everything in the
front end for looseness and even removed the steering box and tightened it's
adjustments all without much improvement. I then noticed that the sway bar
mounts had deteriorated. One of the frame mount bushings was mostly gone and
the rubber mounts on the ends were deteriorated enough that they were no
longer tight. I replaced all of this rubber and the handling was much
improved. Apparently the sway bar shifting can can cause a slight change in
front end geometry which is just enough to cause handling problems. I've
only driven about 5 miles so far so I don't know if this is a total cure.

Dick Kennedy

>

>> Dick,
>>
>> I installed headers on my rig about two year ago and have both original
manifolds
>> in the rafters of the barn.
>>
>> I had to replace one about 5 years ago and paid $50 for it in a salvage yard.
>>
>> I'll let you have either or both for $50 each.
>>
>> Bill Rush
>> 73 Canyonlands
>>
>> > > I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked
several
>> > > of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.
>> > >>
>> > > If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them
coated but I
>> > > don't have the time to do that now.
>> > >>
>> > > I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new
opinions
>> > > on this subject.
>> > >
>> > > Dick Kennedy
>
>
>
>
>
 
FYI

Alex Sirum carries reconditioned exhaust manifolds for 455 and 403 engines
in stock for $65 each. 941-763-1121 or www.gmcmh.com I just had mine redone
by Alex last month - sure sounds a lot better - or should I say "doesn't sound"

Mike Finnicum
78 GMC Eleganza II
Naples, FL

>Bill,
>
>I finally located a used exhaust manifold at a local salvage yard. I paid
>$40 for the part then another $40 to have it milled flat. When I got it
>installed I could then hear the left side spitting so I took it off and had
>it milled too. It was worse than the right so the machinist charged me $45
>for it. Our local GMC dealer quoted $225 each so I assume new ones are
>still available. I got everything in and torqued last nite. It sounds
>great but I don't have wheels on the ground yet.
>
>My current crisis is now under control and my present efforts are directed
>towards leaving on vacation so I haven't decided about the longer term.
>Anyway hang onto those manifolds because either I or someone else will be
>needing them. Have the manifolds you have been machined flat recently or
>are they slightly warped like mine were. I don't know if the manifolds I
>have are 23 year old originals or if they have been replaced before.
>
>From what I've read having the manifolds ceramic coated makes them run much
>cooler. This would help lower underhood temperatures as well as well as
>greatly extend the life of the manifolds but it's a major expense over a
>system which has run just fine for more than twenty years. I'll be running
>about 5000 miles over the next two or three weeks. If I don't develop any
>manifold problems I'll probably just put off a decision until the mufflers
>and tail pipe needs replaced then decide what makes most sense at that time.
>At this point I think I have most of the potential reliability factors under
>control but I already have major time and money invested in this old beast
>and haven't even tackled any of the cosmetics yet. Maybe next year I can
>make it pretty!
>
>Some other information that may benefit others--
>
>
>I have also replaced all of the brake lines and hoses. I started before the
>stainless line thread came up so I went conventional, not stainless. I just
>got all of the lines bled last nite. Will be making a test drive very soon.
>
>I replaced the engine oil cooler lines with new ones. When I got the old
>ones off they were deterioriated enough that I could break off the ends with
>my fingers. Had these lines broken on the road it could have been disastrous
>for the engine and possibly have caused a fire. Check these carefully!!
>
>Also on my last test run the engine and undercarriage came back covered with
>oil. The metal lines to the transmission cooler had rusted and developed a
>pinhole leak. This was also a potential disaster in the making so check
>these carefully.
>
>I also made a post sometime ago about poor handling. The coach has Bilstein
>shocks. The ones on the rear were totally shot. The leading right rear wheel
>was actually seized solid and the others were too loose. After calling
>several dealers without gaining any useful information I called Bilstein
>direct. They immediately sent me an entire new set even though I couldn'r
>prove I was the original purchaser. Chalk up some points for Bilstein.
>
>The new shocks improved the quality of the ride dramatically but didn't help
>the handling problem. I checked the rear bushings and everything in the
>front end for looseness and even removed the steering box and tightened it's
>adjustments all without much improvement. I then noticed that the sway bar
>mounts had deteriorated. One of the frame mount bushings was mostly gone and
>the rubber mounts on the ends were deteriorated enough that they were no
>longer tight. I replaced all of this rubber and the handling was much
>improved. Apparently the sway bar shifting can can cause a slight change in
>front end geometry which is just enough to cause handling problems. I've
>only driven about 5 miles so far so I don't know if this is a total cure.
>
>Dick Kennedy
>

>>
>
>>> Dick,
>>>
>>> I installed headers on my rig about two year ago and have both original
>manifolds
>>> in the rafters of the barn.
>>>
>>> I had to replace one about 5 years ago and paid $50 for it in a salvage
yard.
>>>
>>> I'll let you have either or both for $50 each.
>>>
>>> Bill Rush
>>> 73 Canyonlands
>>>
>>> > > I've found a crack in my right side exhaust manifold. I've checked
>several
>>> > > of the local salvage yards and have been unable to locate one locally.
>>> > >>
>>> > > If I have to go the expense of new parts I'd probably want them
>coated but I
>>> > > don't have the time to do that now.
>>> > >>
>>> > > I'd appreciate any help in locating a part and/or hearing any new
>opinions
>>> > > on this subject.
>>> > >
>>> > > Dick Kennedy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
 
I posted a note a week or so ago about exhaust manifolds that I have. I put
headers on my machine a couple of years ago and don't plan to ever go back.

Left and right side good condition. $50 each plus S

Bill Rush
73 Canyonlands

> -- [ From: Eugene Fisher * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
>
> Hi Ray
> First I suggest you get on this GMCllist. At this time I've been unable to
> locate one from a wrecking yard. My third option is to purchase new from
> Cinnabar for $167.00 plus S&H. My fourth option is a set of Doug Thorley
> headers for $350.00 plus
> S&H. Any thoughts?
>
> -------- REPLY, End of original message --------
 
I have a new set of doug Thorley headers but am not going to install them
until major work is done on the coach this winter.Bought them from Austins
Pro/max Performance 5110 184th St East, Tacoma Wa 98446 for $315 + $22
shipping to NY.

Put the original manifolds back on the engine 2 days ago. Originally bought
the new felpro 1439 gaskets($28.11 each) recommended by cinnabar. They
blasted out within 500 miles and were louder than before. would never
recommend them to anyone. This time I went to parts america and bought cheap
steel gaskets but put permatex copper gasket sealer on them, good to 700
degrees F. Applied it to the doughnuts also. It works fantastic, exhaust
was never this quiet. Will take a trip soon and will really test it.

>-- [ From: Eugene Fisher * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
> Attachment: mimemsg.doc Code: 00IOOVF \ Created: Unknown [2 Kb]
>
>thanks I will forward to Ray
>gene
>------- FORWARD, Original message follows -------
>
>Date: Saturday, 11-Jul-98 12:31 AM
>
>From: Bill Rush \ Internet: (brush)
>To: gmclist \ Internet: (gmcmotorhome
>.org)
>
>Attachment: mimemsg.doc Code: 00J9QLO \ Created: Unknown [2 Kb]
>
>Subject: Re: GMC: Exhaust Manifold
>
>I posted a note a week or so ago about exhaust manifolds that I have. I
>put headers on my machine a couple of years ago and don't plan to ever
>go back.
>
>Left and right side good condition. $50 each plus S
>
>Bill Rush
>73 Canyonlands
>

>
>> -- [ From: Eugene Fisher * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
>>
>> Hi Ray
>> First I suggest you get on this GMCllist. At this time I've been
>unable to
>> locate one from a wrecking yard. My third option is to purchase new
>from
>> Cinnabar for $167.00 plus S&H. My fourth option is a set of Doug
>Thorley
>> headers for $350.00 plus
>> S&H. Any thoughts?
>>
>> -------- REPLY, End of original message --------
>
>
>
>
>
>------- FORWARD, End of original message -------
>
>
>Attachment Converted: D:\BORG\EUDORA\MIMEMSG.DOC
>
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Thomas G.
> Warner
> Sent: Friday, July 17, 1998 9:23 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Fwd: Re: Exhaust Manifold
>
>
> I have a new set of doug Thorley headers but am not going to install them
> until major work is done on the coach this winter.Bought them from Austins
> Pro/max Performance 5110 184th St East, Tacoma Wa 98446 for $315 + $22
> shipping to NY.
>
> Put the original manifolds back on the engine 2 days ago.
> Originally bought
> the new felpro 1439 gaskets($28.11 each) recommended by cinnabar. They
> blasted out within 500 miles and were louder than before. would never
> recommend them to anyone. This time I went to parts america and
> bought cheap
> steel gaskets but put permatex copper gasket sealer on them, good to 700
> degrees F. Applied it to the doughnuts also. It works fantastic, exhaust
> was never this quiet. Will take a trip soon and will really test it.
I had a guy tell me last week not to
use anything for gaskets, No sealer
or gaskets....Is He serious or just
nuts???? I have never heard of this
before.
Thanks,
Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert ( Rain Collector )
 
He is nuts. Original manifolds were bolted directly to the cylinder heads
using a sealer. Both the heads and manifolds have to be perfectly flat to
do this.

>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-gmcmotorhome
>> [mailto:owner-gmcmotorhome]On Behalf Of Thomas G.
>> Warner
>> Sent: Friday, July 17, 1998 9:23 PM
>> To: gmcmotorhome
>> Subject: Re: GMC: Fwd: Re: Exhaust Manifold
>>
>>
>> I have a new set of doug Thorley headers but am not going to install them
>> until major work is done on the coach this winter.Bought them from Austins
>> Pro/max Performance 5110 184th St East, Tacoma Wa 98446 for $315 + $22
>> shipping to NY.
>>
>> Put the original manifolds back on the engine 2 days ago.
>> Originally bought
>> the new felpro 1439 gaskets($28.11 each) recommended by cinnabar. They
>> blasted out within 500 miles and were louder than before. would never
>> recommend them to anyone. This time I went to parts america and
>> bought cheap
>> steel gaskets but put permatex copper gasket sealer on them, good to 700
>> degrees F. Applied it to the doughnuts also. It works fantastic, exhaust
>> was never this quiet. Will take a trip soon and will really test it.
>I had a guy tell me last week not to
> use anything for gaskets, No sealer
> or gaskets....Is He serious or just
> nuts???? I have never heard of this
> before.
>Thanks,
> Rob Teed 74 Painted Desert ( Rain Collector )
>
>
>
 
When I had the Doug Thorley headers and 3 inch exhaust system installed the
fellow I used (Dale from Castell, Texas) used solid copper Mr. Gasket
exhaust manifold gaskets and he applied a liberal coat of red silicone on
both sides of the gasket. I have about 3,000 miles on the installation and
have not had any exhaust leaks. I have used the red silicone sealer on
exhaust manifold installations on diesel ground power units at the airport.
I have not had any problems with leaks.

Russ Bethel
rbethel