Exhaust manifold

B

bill e satterfield

New member
Dec 14, 1999
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Went to fix exhaust leak yesterday and discovered driver side manifold
broke into. So far have 4 bolts out and one rounded off. Hope to get
it out today. What I need is new or prefferably good used left
manifold. Seems like someone was looking for same last week. Anyone
have one, any leads, hints, ideas. thanks
Bill.
 
I think this is a sign of the times

http://www.california.com/~eagle/engine.html

gene

>Went to fix exhaust leak yesterday and discovered driver side manifold
>broke into. So far have 4 bolts out and one rounded off. Hope to get
>it out today. What I need is new or prefferably good used left
>manifold. Seems like someone was looking for same last week. Anyone
>have one, any leads, hints, ideas. thanks
>Bill.

Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/ http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Gene!

> I think this is a sign of the times
>

Your web site says "MANIFOLDS You got-em, smoke-em. (military slogan from a
despicable drug habit) If you have good exhaust manifolds, resurface them,
remount with copper gaskets, and put them on with an impact wrench. Retorque
them some time, if you think of it. They worked for 30 years maybe they will
work a while longer. If you want them to last longer on our crappy gas, put
in an A/F gauge and
get your carburetor fixed until the exhaust does not run lean and hot. When
the manifolds crack, go to
headers.

I have potential problems with my exhaust manifolds. I'm getting ready to do
a R & R and am wondering about the gasket material to use. Cinnabar used
something other then copper and they were the last ones to have worked on my
manifolds. One was replaced with a new one and one was resurfaced. The
manifold job lasted about 15,000 miles. They're just starting to make
noise. I figure I better do something before it gets worse the heads get
ruined. I never retorqued them as suggested. I did have the carb
recalibrated by Cinnabar at the same time.

I am really wondering about the wisdom of using an impact wrench to put them
back on. Can you expand upon that recommendation a bit? I normally don't
like to use impact wrenches to put stuff on with.

Richard Waters
1976 PB
Troy, MI

>
> http://www.california.com/~eagle/engine.html
>
> gene
>

>
> >Went to fix exhaust leak yesterday and discovered driver side manifold
> >broke into. So far have 4 bolts out and one rounded off. Hope to get
> >it out today. What I need is new or prefferably good used left
> >manifold. Seems like someone was looking for same last week. Anyone
> >have one, any leads, hints, ideas. thanks
> >Bill.
 
Mine was done that way by Mondello's operation, but I guess I would use the
torqe method if I was to do it. You might want to contact Jardene's
operation, he said he puts on the headers really tight.

My point of this section was, the manifolds are becoming more and more rare
and we will all be in headers some day..... but ..... until then , use what
you have.

gene

>Gene!
>
> > I think this is a sign of the times
> >
>
>Your web site says "MANIFOLDS You got-em, smoke-em. (military slogan from a
>despicable drug habit) If you have good exhaust manifolds, resurface them,
>remount with copper gaskets, and put them on with an impact wrench. Retorque
>them some time, if you think of it. They worked for 30 years maybe they will
>work a while longer. If you want them to last longer on our crappy gas, put
>in an A/F gauge and
>get your carburetor fixed until the exhaust does not run lean and hot. When
>the manifolds crack, go to
>headers.
>
>I have potential problems with my exhaust manifolds. I'm getting ready to do
>a R & R and am wondering about the gasket material to use. Cinnabar used
>something other then copper and they were the last ones to have worked on my
>manifolds. One was replaced with a new one and one was resurfaced. The
>manifold job lasted about 15,000 miles. They're just starting to make
>noise. I figure I better do something before it gets worse the heads get
>ruined. I never retorqued them as suggested. I did have the carb
>recalibrated by Cinnabar at the same time.
>
>I am really wondering about the wisdom of using an impact wrench to put them
>back on. Can you expand upon that recommendation a bit? I normally don't
>like to use impact wrenches to put stuff on with.
>
>Richard Waters
>1976 PB
>Troy, MI
>
>
> >
> > http://www.california.com/~eagle/engine.html
> >
> > gene
> >

> >
> > >Went to fix exhaust leak yesterday and discovered driver side manifold
> > >broke into. So far have 4 bolts out and one rounded off. Hope to get
> > >it out today. What I need is new or prefferably good used left
> > >manifold. Seems like someone was looking for same last week. Anyone
> > >have one, any leads, hints, ideas. thanks
> > >Bill.

Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/ http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Tom,
I would never use an impact wrench on something like that. With my luck I would
be drilling out most of the broken bolts soon after using the air wrench. Yes I'm
grown and yes I would be crying.

I feel better using my own touch and feel to get it close then a torque wrench to
make sure.

I just came back from checking out the manifold bolts and most of them were
loose. I tightened then to a little more then 25 lbs and the noise is
diminished. Maybe I fixed my problem?

Richard

> Richard if you really like to see a grown man cry, just put those exhaust
> manifolds on using an impact wrench. YOu will surely break off some studs.
> They are only supposed to be torqued to 25 ft lbs. Tighter and you are
> asking for trouble.
>
> tom
>

> >Gene!
> >
> >> I think this is a sign of the times
> >>
> >
> >Your web site says "MANIFOLDS You got-em, smoke-em. (military slogan from a
> >despicable drug habit) If you have good exhaust manifolds, resurface them,
> >remount with copper gaskets, and put them on with an impact wrench. Retorque
> >them some time, if you think of it. They worked for 30 years maybe they will
> >work a while longer. If you want them to last longer on our crappy gas, put
> >in an A/F gauge and
> >get your carburetor fixed until the exhaust does not run lean and hot. When
> >the manifolds crack, go to
> >headers.
> >
> >I have potential problems with my exhaust manifolds. I'm getting ready to do
> >a R & R and am wondering about the gasket material to use. Cinnabar used
> >something other then copper and they were the last ones to have worked on my
> >manifolds. One was replaced with a new one and one was resurfaced. The
> >manifold job lasted about 15,000 miles. They're just starting to make
> >noise. I figure I better do something before it gets worse the heads get
> >ruined. I never retorqued them as suggested. I did have the carb
> >recalibrated by Cinnabar at the same time.
> >
> >I am really wondering about the wisdom of using an impact wrench to put them
> >back on. Can you expand upon that recommendation a bit? I normally don't
> >like to use impact wrenches to put stuff on with.
> >
> >Richard Waters
> >1976 PB
> >Troy, MI
> >
> >
> >>
> >> http://www.california.com/~eagle/engine.html
> >>
> >> gene
> >>

> >>
> >> >Went to fix exhaust leak yesterday and discovered driver side manifold
> >> >broke into. So far have 4 bolts out and one rounded off. Hope to get
> >> >it out today. What I need is new or prefferably good used left
> >> >manifold. Seems like someone was looking for same last week. Anyone
> >> >have one, any leads, hints, ideas. thanks
> >> >Bill.
> >
> >
> >
 
> Richard if you really like to see a grown man cry, just put those
> exhaust
> manifolds on using an impact wrench. YOu will surely break off some
> studs.
> They are only supposed to be torqued to 25 ft lbs. Tighter and you
> are
> asking for trouble.
>
> tom
>
What are the thoughts about using antisieze on the bolts?
Bill
 
I don't make this stuff up, since I dunno, I listen to the experts..

Jardine Exhaust systems
http://www.jardineperformance.com/index.htm
Just got off the phone to Jerry Jardine, (30 years in the business)and he
sells 3 inch systems using Thorley headers just for the GMC. He says with
new gaskets , bring the bolts all up together on the header and bring them
up to 80 lb. He says they use a small impact wrench set to 100 to 110
pounds when they put them on. Use the bolts they send and chase the
threads. Warm up the engine, wait for the headers to cool, heads still
hot, and torque them again.. This is also what he said at the Ukiah rally
about 30 guys there heard his seminar. He said there was no one remaining
at Thorley that knew anything anymore...does no good to ask them. ;>)

Mondello
When they put in my new motor they used a small impact wrench to put on the
manifolds. I asked why and they said they don't leak that way. Used new
bolts and copper gaskets. I asked the guy about antiseize, and he said
would not use it, because makes them come out later.

So I guess your pick your experts. These are hardly knuckle-draggers. I
guess this gives your some facts to shoot at, then make your own decision.
gene

>boy isnt that the truth or better still use a grade 8 bolt to long and break
>the casting on the heads. PO did that on mine.
>
>tom
>

> >In a message dated 8/2/2000 8:49:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
> warner
> >writes:
> >
> >Richard if you really like to see a grown man cry, just put those exhaust
> >manifolds on using an impact wrench. YOu will surely break off some studs.
> >They are only supposed to be torqued to 25 ft lbs. Tighter and you are
> asking
> >for trouble. >>
> >
> >And if you really want trouble use grade 8 bolts and let some
> knuckle-dragger
> >get down on them with an impact wrench.
> >
> >Lanier
> >Jackson, Mississippi
> >FMCA # 37894
> >'73 GMC Excalibur
> >'29 Mercedes SSK Roadster
> >'94 Geo Tracker (BN TOAD)
> >
> >"Once the game is over,
> >the king and the pawn go
> >back in the same box."
> >--Italian Proverb
> >
> >

Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/ http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Well this subject has been talked about a lot! This could be more
volatile then tires and tire pressures.

I wrote earlier that I was having some extra exhaust sounds. I figured
that it was time to replace the manifold gaskets before things got
worse.

Yesterday I got the manifolds out. I had no problems getting any of the
bolts out. That was probably the cause of my problem, the bolts were
not tight enough.

I had Cinnabar do the last manifold job. They machined one flat and
replaced another due to cracks. They installed Fel-pro 1439 gaskets and
used a sealer. They also used grade 8 hex bolts. I was told by Ivan to
retorque them in about 500 miles but I never did because I didn't know
how to get at the bolts. I know now to take off the wheel liner.

I think my problem was never checking the torque of the bolts. So in
15,000 miles they loosened up. When I got the manifolds out the gaskets
were intact. The only thing missing was the center web for the middle
ports. That had burned away a long time ago which I've read is normal.

Now the dilemma is what to do as a replacement . I scanned the archives
for the past year and found that there are lots of different ways to do
the job. I think that much of what I've read in the archives are
myths. There is use gaskets and don't use gaskets, antiseize or no
antiseize, sealant or no sealant, class 8 bolts or soft bolts, lock
washers or flat washers, headers vs manifolds and on and on. Compared
to this the tire issue was cut and dry for me. Just get all steel tires
and blow them up to 80psi. What could be easier? Wish it was as simple
with manifolds.

I think I'm going to repeat the process that Cinnabar did the last
time. It actually lasted a long time considering my lack of
maintenance. This time however I'll follow it up with regular torque
checks.

The following is a HTML table that shows all the different things that
the archives revealed as ways to do the engine exhaust. I hope this
works with the new mail list server.

Richard Waters

 
Richard,

IMHO, this is an excellent use of the new server capabilities. The table
sure makes the data easy to assimilate. Now if it can just be homogenized,
maybe some real truth will develop here.

>Well this subject has been talked about a lot! This could be more
>volatile then tires and tire pressures.

Regards,
Steve in N. Texas
Life's a real trip!
 
Richard,
It is as simple as the wheel issue. Just buy Thorley headers, install them
and forget about all that other stuff.
Bob McLaughlin
 
Arch,
There must be a setting somewhere in your email program to allow you to read
HTML stuff. When I got the email back from the list I could see the table.
At least one other GMCer said he got the table. We're just going to have to
figure out how to make this work for everyone and without too much download
time.

I'd love to see what you did to correct you door leaks. My door leaks if I
don't have it shut very tight. To do that means I have to slam the door
real hard and I don't like doing that. If I don't water gets all over the
inside of the door and it has just about ruined the pleated shade in the
door with water stains.

Richard

> In a message dated 08/06/2000 7:11:51 PM Central Daylight Time,

>
> > The following is a HTML table that shows all the different things that
> > the archives revealed as ways to do the engine exhaust. I hope this
> > works with the new mail list server.
> >
> Richard
>
> Now that did not work here. Just a bunch of gibberish.
>
> Take Care
> Arch
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
> For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
 
Bob,
I wish I could do that! My budget for the GMC is already in the red. I have
to make do with what I have. Maybe after the engine and tranny overhauls and
new paint job I'll get headers. Mark me down for headers sometime around 2010
by the time I get all that other stuff paid for :^( Then or course I'll have
to get fuel injection.

It was a major project for the Alcoa wheels and new Michelin tires this year.

Richard

> Richard,
> It is as simple as the wheel issue. Just buy Thorley headers, install them
> and forget about all that other stuff.
> Bob McLaughlin
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
> For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
 
The table was just fine on my PC using Eudora.
gene

>Arch,
>There must be a setting somewhere in your email program to allow you to read
>HTML stuff. When I got the email back from the list I could see the table.
>At least one other GMCer said he got the table. We're just going to have to
>figure out how to make this work for everyone and without too much download
>time.
>
>I'd love to see what you did to correct you door leaks. My door leaks if I
>don't have it shut very tight. To do that means I have to slam the door
>real hard and I don't like doing that. If I don't water gets all over the
>inside of the door and it has just about ruined the pleated shade in the
>door with water stains.
>
>Richard
>

>
> > In a message dated 08/06/2000 7:11:51 PM Central Daylight Time,

> >
> > > The following is a HTML table that shows all the different things that
> > > the archives revealed as ways to do the engine exhaust. I hope this
> > > works with the new mail list server.
> > >
> > Richard
> >
> > Now that did not work here. Just a bunch of gibberish.
> >
> > Take Care
> > Arch
> >
> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
> > For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
>For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help

Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/ http://www.california.com/~eagle/
 
Richard,
Guess I meant buy, install and pay for them which is only simple for us that
already have them.
Bob McLaughlin

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Waters [mailto:digitek]
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2000 8:43 PM
To: GMC net
Subject: Re: GMC: Exhaust manifold

Bob,
I wish I could do that! My budget for the GMC is already in the red. I
have
to make do with what I have. Maybe after the engine and tranny overhauls
and
new paint job I'll get headers. Mark me down for headers sometime around
2010
by the time I get all that other stuff paid for :^( Then or course I'll
have
to get fuel injection.

It was a major project for the Alcoa wheels and new Michelin tires this
year.

Richard

> Richard,
> It is as simple as the wheel issue. Just buy Thorley headers, install
them
> and forget about all that other stuff.
> Bob McLaughlin
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
> For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help

---------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-unsubscribe
For additional commands, e-mail: gmcmotorhome-help
 
Worked fine here.

Travis

> At least one other GMCer said he got the table. We're just going to have
to
> figure out how to make this work for everyone and without too much
download
> time.
 
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