Bill,
I assure you I agree with you on not wanting to go through the procedure in
recurving the door but I have found no easy way.
If you cram rubber seal material to take up the gap, it further opens the gap.
The door, being all aluminum, has little structure to keep it from bending
when it is put in a bind and that is the problem. At some point in its
life, the wind probobly caught the door and slapped it open agianst the
body mold trim. This binds the door at the center forcing the top & bottom
to bend outward.
The door must be restressed in the opposate direction by pulling in on the
top & bottom with the jig described in the manual. Actually,when you have
made your mind up, you can have the door broken down, window out ready to
bend in a hour or so. It just takes the will!
The recurving does work and when you are done, you will be proud of your door.
I would also add a drip cap over the entry door to aid in shedding the
water run off away from the top of the door.
I also add an additional trim on the inside lip of the opening to help shed
water around the door and to guard agianst wind noise. I had some at the
last Intl. rally and everyone liked the idea. If you need some, give me a
call.
All this in a nut shell says- go for it and bend to door!!1 Its gotta happen.
Hopr this helps,
Jim Bounds
- ---------------------
> I have looked at the procedure in the book and sure don't want to take
>the door down and go through all that. Its may be the best way though.
> Having looked at several of the service bulletins,
>
>>WARRANTY INFORMATION
>>When the repairs are within the published warranty use:
> Labor Operation Time Allowance
> Trouble Code
> T045101 .5Hr.
>>>
>
>I always laugh at the time allowance. I must be having more senior
>events because I spend 0.5 hour just getting the door off. Everything
>seems to take a lot longer than it seems like it should any more.
>har,har.
>
>Bill
>_________________________________________________________
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>
>
Jim Bounds/Co-op Motor Works Orlando
www.gmccoop.com