Entry Door

[Ken H.]

Tom,

To check the hinge-side "bulge", just use the template you make on the
other side of the door opening.

Unless you plan to get into the correction of the midriff bulge, it's
probably more important to match the contour from side to side of the
door. I've never worried about the hinge-side contour, but my 23' is
probably less prone to that problem than a 26'.

I don't think the sequence of your projects is really of much importance.

Ken H.

> Ok getting fun now. I'll check to see if jamb has bulged. Any specifc
> reliable location to dimension to the inner side of the jamb to see how far
> out
> of spec it is?
>
> So here my critcal path now.
>
> Iso Pads
>
> Door Hinge and Striker Plate
>
> Adjusting Bulge
>
> Is that sequence correct?
>

 

[LarryW]

> The round striker on the OEM plate has a rubber layer beneath the visible
> steel shank. Bill's design eliminates the rubber and the consequent
> looseness when the door's latching.
>
> Ken H.

I've had problems with door closing since I acquired the coach. I finally replaced the striker with Bill's design striker. Door closed nice and easy,
but would not clamp in to the second catch. I've tried adjusting the striker plate all of the way in and all of the way out and many spots in between
to no avail. I can adjust the striker all of the way in, but catching on the first latch does not close the door against the seal. Adjust it out and
the gap just gets wider and will not push the catch to the second catch. I finally got out my vernier and measure both striker and ID of the catch.
Striker dia. .622
Latch ID. .582
Opened and closed the latch 4-5 times with no change in the ID on the second catch.

Conclusion for me is that either the striker is .040 to large or the ID of the latch is .040 to small.

I have not taken the latch apart yet to see if something mechanical is making the ID to small.

Any ideas?

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[JShot]

FWIW, I made the blocks that are shown in the MM, and used them per the MM instructions a few years ago when our door was out about 1/4", top and
bottom. I had no problem with the block setup, and the door came out great. That took care of the recurve to match the coach body.

Then to fix the closing/latching (it had been so bad that the door skin has been dented in from PO's slamming it), I did the majority of the
adjustment inside the door. You have to take the door panel(s) off to get inside to the latch mechanism and just keep futzing with it until you get it
the way you want it. It can be done. Ask anyone who has tried our door! JWID

John
--
John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
Web Site: GMCmhRegistry.com
Email: john at gmcmhregistry dot com

 

[kosier]

Larry,

First thing is check another coach and see what doesn't match. Then I'd
probably take a 5/8" end mill and the die grinder and open up the latch.
Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry"
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 8:13 PM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Entry Door

>> The round striker on the OEM plate has a rubber layer beneath the visible
>> steel shank. Bill's design eliminates the rubber and the consequent
>> looseness when the door's latching.
>>
>> Ken H.
>
> I've had problems with door closing since I acquired the coach. I finally
> replaced the striker with Bill's design striker. Door closed nice and
> easy,
> but would not clamp in to the second catch. I've tried adjusting the
> striker plate all of the way in and all of the way out and many spots in
> between
> to no avail. I can adjust the striker all of the way in, but catching on
> the first latch does not close the door against the seal. Adjust it out
> and
> the gap just gets wider and will not push the catch to the second catch.
> I finally got out my vernier and measure both striker and ID of the catch.
> Striker dia. .622
> Latch ID. .582
> Opened and closed the latch 4-5 times with no change in the ID on the
> second catch.
>
> Conclusion for me is that either the striker is .040 to large or the ID
> of the latch is .040 to small.
>
> I have not taken the latch apart yet to see if something mechanical is
> making the ID to small.
>
> Any ideas?
>
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
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