Entry Door

T

tom geiger

New member
Dec 31, 2006
673
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Ok, so going to tackle this entry door. Going into the motorhome works fine but coming out is sometimes tough. The latch won't release the door. Also
the door does not seal completly at the bottom. So I've ordered the hinge sleeves and the latch plate assembly from Jim and am ready to dig into it.
Anything to be aware of before I become totally unhindged??

Tom
76 Eleganza 2
KCMO
 
Make sure you take a screen out and open the best window to climb into so
if the latch becomes adjusted to where it will not open from the outside
you have a way in.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> Ok, so going to tackle this entry door. Going into the motorhome works
> fine but coming out is sometimes tough. The latch won't release the door.
> Also
> the door does not seal completly at the bottom. So I've ordered the hinge
> sleeves and the latch plate assembly from Jim and am ready to dig into it.
> Anything to be aware of before I become totally unhindged??
>
> Tom
> 76 Eleganza 2
> KCMO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Tom,

Go ahead and completely remove the latch from the door, clean it well, and
re-lubricate it. I thought my door closed very nicely for 18+ years and
was the proud recipient of one of Bill Bramlett's earliest new strikers
(like you're getting from Jim K.). But after the R&R & re-lube a couple of
years ago, I was amazed at the ease of closing the door -- with one
fingertip.

While you're at it, you may want to adjust the inside latch. I don't
remember the exact details, but I discovered many years ago that the inside
knob can be adjusted, with the barrel nut its linkage includes, so that the
door cannot be closed with it latched -- the key must ALWAYS be used from
the outside. In other words, it's impossible to lock the keys inside the
coach.

As far as the door not closing completely at the bottom, Dan Winchester has
a GMCMHPhotos album showing how to do it. I can't find it now, but the
method is: 1. Drill 3/8" holes at the top and bottom of the latch-side of
the door. 2. Into those holes, insert the hooks of LONG J-bolts (which
you may have to make from all-thread). 3. Onto those J-bolts, mount a
2"x4" with holes to match them. 4. At the area where you need to bend the
door (probably just below the latch), place a hydraulic bottle jack
horizontally between the 2x4 and the padded door. 5. With the jack,
gently bend the door in steps until it closes properly -- don't get
over-rambunctious!

HTH,

Ken H.

> Ok, so going to tackle this entry door. Going into the motorhome works
> fine but coming out is sometimes tough. The latch won't release the door.
> Also
> the door does not seal completly at the bottom. So I've ordered the hinge
> sleeves and the latch plate assembly from Jim and am ready to dig into it.
> Anything to be aware of before I become totally unhindged??
>
> Tom
> 76 Eleganza 2
> KCMO
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Ken,
Took my door apart to secure the leather strap handle and while I had the
cover off, I cleaned and lubed up the door mechanism.
Wow it used to stick when trying to open and I would have to use my foot n
the bottom of the door to get it to open. Now no effort
to close or open.
Also got a Bill Bramlett door strike from the "raggedy ass mechanic".

Not sure what I did but now my door will lock without the key. I hade to
use the key before!!
that will be next week's project on the motor home.

> Good stuff to know. Thanks guys. Will get at it with this good info
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Bruce,

Glad to here your door's working better.

As for the locking problem: In the vertical linkage to the interior lock
knob there's a "barrel nut". With that, you can set the linkage so that
the key MUST be used to lock the door -- if the inside knob is down when
the door's closed, the knob will pop up.

Ken H.

> Ken,
> Took my door apart to secure the leather strap handle and while I had the
> cover off, I cleaned and lubed up the door mechanism.
> Wow it used to stick when trying to open and I would have to use my foot n
> the bottom of the door to get it to open. Now no effort
> to close or open.
> Also got a Bill Bramlett door strike from the "raggedy ass mechanic".
>
> Not sure what I did but now my door will lock without the key. I hade to
> use the key before!!
> that will be next week's project on the motor home.
>
>
 
Tom,
Majority of the time one need to recurve the door.
When you pull the lower in, the upper will pull away.
I'm sure Sully will agree with me as he is a body specialist.

> Bruce,
>
> Glad to here your door's working better.
>
> As for the locking problem: In the vertical linkage to the interior lock
> knob there's a "barrel nut". With that, you can set the linkage so that
> the key MUST be used to lock the door -- if the inside knob is down when
> the door's closed, the knob will pop up.
>
> Ken H.
>

>
> > Ken,
> > Took my door apart to secure the leather strap handle and while I had the
> > cover off, I cleaned and lubed up the door mechanism.
> > Wow it used to stick when trying to open and I would have to use my foot
> n
> > the bottom of the door to get it to open. Now no effort
> > to close or open.
> > Also got a Bill Bramlett door strike from the "raggedy ass mechanic".
> >
> > Not sure what I did but now my door will lock without the key. I hade to
> > use the key before!!
> > that will be next week's project on the motor home.
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
What is the difference between Bill Bramlett's door striker and the stock
unit?

RonC

On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 18:23:22 -0700 Jim Kanomata
writes:
> Tom,
> Majority of the time one need to recurve the door.
> When you pull the lower in, the upper will pull away.
> I'm sure Sully will agree with me as he is a body specialist.
>
> On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 4:14 PM Ken Henderson

>
> > Bruce,
> >
> > Glad to here your door's working better.
> >
> > As for the locking problem: In the vertical linkage to the
> interior lock
> > knob there's a "barrel nut". With that, you can set the linkage
> so that
> > the key MUST be used to lock the door -- if the inside knob is
> down when
> > the door's closed, the knob will pop up.
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 5:03 PM Bruce Hart

> >
> > > Ken,
> > > Took my door apart to secure the leather strap handle and while
> I had the
> > > cover off, I cleaned and lubed up the door mechanism.
> > > Wow it used to stick when trying to open and I would have to use
> my foot
> > n
> > > the bottom of the door to get it to open. Now no effort
> > > to close or open.
> > > Also got a Bill Bramlett door strike from the "raggedy ass
> mechanic".
> > >
> > > Not sure what I did but now my door will lock without the key. I
> hade to
> > > use the key before!!
> > > that will be next week's project on the motor home.
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
The latch is a machined stud that is welded to the plate.

>
> What is the difference between Bill Bramlett's door striker and the stock
> unit?
>
> RonC
>
> On Sun, 9 Sep 2018 18:23:22 -0700 Jim Kanomata

> > Tom,
> > Majority of the time one need to recurve the door.
> > When you pull the lower in, the upper will pull away.
> > I'm sure Sully will agree with me as he is a body specialist.
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 4:14 PM Ken Henderson

> >
> > > Bruce,
> > >
> > > Glad to here your door's working better.
> > >
> > > As for the locking problem: In the vertical linkage to the
> > interior lock
> > > knob there's a "barrel nut". With that, you can set the linkage
> > so that
> > > the key MUST be used to lock the door -- if the inside knob is
> > down when
> > > the door's closed, the knob will pop up.
> > >
> > > Ken H.
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 5:03 PM Bruce Hart

> > >
> > > > Ken,
> > > > Took my door apart to secure the leather strap handle and while
> > I had the
> > > > cover off, I cleaned and lubed up the door mechanism.
> > > > Wow it used to stick when trying to open and I would have to use
> > my foot
> > > n
> > > > the bottom of the door to get it to open. Now no effort
> > > > to close or open.
> > > > Also got a Bill Bramlett door strike from the "raggedy ass
> > mechanic".
> > > >
> > > > Not sure what I did but now my door will lock without the key. I
> > hade to
> > > > use the key before!!
> > > > that will be next week's project on the motor home.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Kanomata
> > Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> > jimk
> > http://www.appliedgmc.com
> > 1-800-752-7502
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
The round striker on the OEM plate has a rubber layer beneath the visible
steel shank. Bill's design eliminates the rubber and the consequent
looseness when the door's latching.

Ken H.

>
> What is the difference between Bill Bramlett's door striker and the stock
> unit?
>
 
I personally did not have any luck with the door pin tool that rob posted. Even after trying a few other methods and lots of penetrating oil, it just
would not pop them or would canter and not want to work.

another GMC'r told me to use an air hammer/chisel. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the Hinge pin, then ground a nice sharp point on a bit
for my air hammer to make sure it was locked into the pin really well. , and then put up some wood and blankets to protect the coach.

almost instantly when I pulled the trigger on the air hammer, the pin popped up. Be careful not to put any force on the hinge to the coach, as some
have beat the pins bad enough to crack the mounting to the coach(I have not seen this myself, but others have warned me when I mention using an air
hammer). but I found the air hammer method so quick and easy. I have removed mine and a friends the same way.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
When using force to drive the pins out, apply an opposing force on the hinge near where it attaches to the door frame. The door frame is Al, and you
can damage it.
Tom
--
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
 
Tom,
Removing the hinge pins can be a real pain! Some people us penetration oil or heat, but the pins have a serrated just under the head that bites into the hinge. I bought this puller that is listed next.

https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=TL-100
with
https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=TL-100-P

The hinges themselves can be damaged by beating on the pin although they are a stamped steel piece. This hinge puller works and is worth the price especially if you damage the hinge and the cost of replacement can be very high at between $200 to $330, used to new. Replacement hinge pins are low cost for a pair at about $17 with new bronze bushings. All the GMC parts are available from Jim K. All of the GMC parts and service suppliers can probably supply you with the necessary parts depending on who you are closer.

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

>
> When using force to drive the pins out, apply an opposing force on the hinge near where it attaches to the door frame. The door frame is Al, and you
> can damage it.
> Tom
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
 
Pneumatic impact hammer. No drama.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

> Tom,
> Removing the hinge pins can be a real pain! Some people us penetration
> oil or heat, but the pins have a serrated just under the head that bites
> into the hinge. I bought this puller that is listed next.
>
> https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=TL-100
> with
> https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=TL-100-P
>
> The hinges themselves can be damaged by beating on the pin although they
> are a stamped steel piece. This hinge puller works and is worth the price
> especially if you damage the hinge and the cost of replacement can be very
> high at between $200 to $330, used to new. Replacement hinge pins are low
> cost for a pair at about $17 with new bronze bushings. All the GMC parts
> are available from Jim K. All of the GMC parts and service suppliers can
> probably supply you with the necessary parts depending on who you are
> closer.
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC Great Laker MHC
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMC Eastern States Charter Member
> GMCMI
> 78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
> 75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
>

> >
> > When using force to drive the pins out, apply an opposing force on the
> hinge near where it attaches to the door frame. The door frame is Al, and
> you
> > can damage it.
> > Tom
> > --
> > 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> > KA4CSG
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Hey Jim, thanks for the links to the hinge pin pullers. Sounds like these guys are a bit diffucult to pull. I have got the hinge kit and striker plate
frim Jim K and keeping my finger crossed their replacement and interior latch release clean up and re-lubing result in its better operation in
opening. As far as its sealing properly against the jamb is another issue. I have read the process of recurving the door to correct this and
understand its process, just a bit uncomfortable in doing it. Kinda winder if I should take it to a body shop for that??
Anyhow, great info guys and much appreciated! Will give updates when I get into it. Am thinking I should do the iso pads first before I get at this
door stuff??
 
Tom,

Unless you're going to somewhere like Cinnabar or the GMC Coop, where will
you find a body professional with ANY GMC door recurving experience? At
best, he'd probably try to rig up a "top & bottom clamp" like that shown in
the service manual -- at too much time & expense. And that arrangement
doesn't give the versatility of Dan Winchester's J-bolts & 2x4. Make
yourself a cardboard (or other cheap rigid material) template from the door
casing. Then use Dan's technique to bend the door to very slightly beyond
the template. Remove the J-bolts & check the fit. You probably won't have
bent it enough, but you'll how much "very slightly beyond" affects the
curvature, so you can come closer on the next attempt. Even 3-5 attempts
won't take very long, and you can get it "just right".

JWIDid,

Ken H.

> Hey Jim, thanks for the links to the hinge pin pullers. Sounds like these
> guys are a bit diffucult to pull. I have got the hinge kit and striker plate
> frim Jim K and keeping my finger crossed their replacement and interior
> latch release clean up and re-lubing result in its better operation in
> opening. As far as its sealing properly against the jamb is another issue.
> I have read the process of recurving the door to correct this and
> understand its process, just a bit uncomfortable in doing it. Kinda winder
> if I should take it to a body shop for that??
> Anyhow, great info guys and much appreciated! Will give updates when I get
> into it. Am thinking I should do the iso pads first before I get at this
> door stuff??
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Tom,
>
> Unless you're going to somewhere like Cinnabar or the GMC Coop, where will you find a body professional with ANY GMC door recurving experience?
> At best, he'd probably try to rig up a "top & bottom clamp" like that shown in the service manual -- at too much time & expense. And that
> arrangement doesn't give the versatility of Dan Winchester's J-bolts & 2x4. Make yourself a cardboard (or other cheap rigid material) template from
> the door casing. Then use Dan's technique to bend the door to very slightly beyond the template. Remove the J-bolts & check the fit. You probably
> won't have bent it enough, but you'll how much "very slightly beyond" affects the curvature, so you can come closer on the next attempt. Even 3-5
> attempts won't take very long, and you can get it "just right".
>
> JWIDid,
>
> Ken H.

What Ken didn't say (I don't know if he ever tried it) was that the "top to bottom" process described in the manual does not actually work very well.
I know, because I tried that first.

Ken also did this as a talk at at least one rally.

Then I went home and drilled the door, made up a 2X4 with J-hooks (made from plain 1/4 rod because that is what I had on the rack). But I used a
scissor jack because my hydraulics are too heavy to hold up and pump. It worked just like he said and even with building the "tools" it still didn't
take more than 2 hours.

After the first couple of tries, you figure out how much it takes to do what.....

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
Could your door be not sealing because the door frame on the strike side
has bowed out. Emery calls this the Middle Age Spread.

http://bdub.net/gmcmotorhome.info/spread.html

On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 4:37 PM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Unless you're going to somewhere like Cinnabar or the GMC Coop, where will
> you find a body professional with ANY GMC door recurving experience? At
> best, he'd probably try to rig up a "top & bottom clamp" like that shown in
> the service manual -- at too much time & expense. And that arrangement
> doesn't give the versatility of Dan Winchester's J-bolts & 2x4. Make
> yourself a cardboard (or other cheap rigid material) template from the door
> casing. Then use Dan's technique to bend the door to very slightly beyond
> the template. Remove the J-bolts & check the fit. You probably won't have
> bent it enough, but you'll how much "very slightly beyond" affects the
> curvature, so you can come closer on the next attempt. Even 3-5 attempts
> won't take very long, and you can get it "just right".
>
> JWIDid,
>
> Ken H.
>

>
> > Hey Jim, thanks for the links to the hinge pin pullers. Sounds like these
> > guys are a bit diffucult to pull. I have got the hinge kit and striker
> plate
> > frim Jim K and keeping my finger crossed their replacement and interior
> > latch release clean up and re-lubing result in its better operation in
> > opening. As far as its sealing properly against the jamb is another
> issue.
> > I have read the process of recurving the door to correct this and
> > understand its process, just a bit uncomfortable in doing it. Kinda
> winder
> > if I should take it to a body shop for that??
> > Anyhow, great info guys and much appreciated! Will give updates when I
> get
> > into it. Am thinking I should do the iso pads first before I get at this
> > door stuff??
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
Ok getting fun now. I'll check to see if jamb has bulged. Any specifc reliable location to dimension to the inner side of the jamb to see how far out
of spec it is?

So here my critcal path now.

Iso Pads

Door Hinge and Striker Plate

Adjusting Bulge

Is that sequence correct?
 
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