Larry, your instructions are so thorough I believe I could change out an
engine and transmission! I know the guys who will actually do it
appreciate your help.
See y'all in Tucson.
Sandra
> I just finished removing/Installing my 5th...Yes the 5th...engine in my
> GMC. Long story not worth repeating, or should I say, in no mood at the
> moment to repeat. Any way, Here are a few tips..not in any order.
>
> In all cases, I took it out the bottom. You need 30-32" floor to front
> crossmember when using a 2" high creeper to slide engine out.
>
> Disconnect all 12v power...Including the house battery.
>
> Get one of those small impact drivers and a socket adaptor and use it to
> spin off all of the nuts and bolts. Really shortens the disassembly time.
> Can also be used to reassemble but must be careful not to over torque. I
> found it really handy to reassemble the 6 special bolts on the drive axles.
>
> As you take things apart, bag all of the nuts, bolts, brackets etc for
> each accessory in baggies and label the bag. Take the alternator out...bag
> the
> parts and put with the alternator. Take the Carb off, bag the bolts and
> other attached stuff and put with carb....etc...etc. This may take a little
> extra time on disassembly, but saves mega time when reassembling. Be
> annal about this!!
>
> After unbolting the drive axles, take a coat hanger wire and hang as far
> up and forward as possible.
>
> On reassembly, when lifting the trans up to match with the back of the
> engine block, the slower you go, the faster you will go. Do it in small
> increments. Move it a little, and check for alignment...move a little and
> check for parallel to block, move a little more to get one long bolt
> started. Many little moves....A little at a time and suddenly it just
> "clunk" it's in. Patience is the name of the game here.
>
> The trans mounts have three bolts. Two to bolt to the trans adaptor plate
> and one bolt to the rear frame member. It is much easier to mount it to the
> adaptor plate with the two bolts, and only have to worry about aligning
> one bolt on the frame, than bolting to the frame first and trying to align
> two
> bolts.
>
> For more clearance dropping the trans, unbolt the front motor mount
> (making sure it is securely hung from a frame and block and tackle) and
> slide the
> motor forward a couple inches. Trans will drop a lot easier.
>
> On disassembly, take the water pump, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds off
> before dropping the engine. Gives you a lot more maneuver room. This is an
> easy thing if you are using a portable impact driver.
>
> Use your smart phone and take pictures of brackets and belts holding the
> alternator, AC compressor, power steering, before you take these off. Helps
> on reassembly.
>
> Before removing the distributor, put engine at TDC compression stroke,
> pull the distributor cap off and take a picture of where the rotor and
> vacuum
> advance are pointed. Also, mark each plug wire with the number of the
> cylinder it came from. If nothing else just use masking tape and magic
> marker.
>
> If you have a one piece radiator shroud, go to the photo site where it
> shows shroud modification, and cut that thing in half while it is out. Make
> brackets to bolt it back together. Makes servicing water pump, and other
> stuff at a later date MUCH easier.
>
> I dropped my engine on a wood creeper that has a hole drilled in to accept
> the drain plug of the oil pan. Blocked it up with 6 X 6's and 2 X 4's,
> sheet rock screwing them to the creeper, and hooked on it with a chain and
> pulled out SLOWLY with my lawn tractor. Had a friend assist with this.
>
> Screwed a 12" X 16" piece of 5/8" plywood to the lift plate on a low lift,
> long reach floor jack. Lowered the trans out of the coach with the jack
> and pulled it out from under by hand.
>
> Either drain most of oil out of the FD, or find something that fits in the
> right hand axle drive seal to keep it from spilling FD fluid all over
> everything when you pull the axle out. I used a large socket that snug
> fit in the seal with a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adaptor in the socket drive.
>
> Double check and recheck each hose connection before pouring in the
> antifreeze.
>
> NO matter who does the engine, put it on an engine stand and run the oil
> pump BEFORE you put the engine in. Now is the time to check all oil gallery
> plugs are in and tight and you have good oil pressure. You don't want to
> find out the plug on the back of the block was missed after the engine is
> in.
>
> Replace all questionable belts and hoses NOW.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
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