> Matt,
> Do you mean Dave advocates removing the whole front end, frame sections, suspension, the works?? Sounds great, but can you give us any more
> detail?
Doug,
Not a lot of detail to give if you have spent any time under there.....
Write a complete list of everything you have wanted to do in the engine room. You may never have this opportunity again.
Have digital camera handy and try to take too many pictures. I missed a bunch of the detail of the FEAD assembly and how the brake lines were
routed.
By the lines:
The main engine battery has to come out and the house bank on a 23.
You have to remove the battery try and the steering box.
Take the lines off the master cylinder and disconnect the brake line to the rear. Pay attention to where these route and mount.
Disconnect the fuel line and the vapor vent line where they come forward.
Where you break the exhaust is your choice.
Remove the shift and throttle cables.
Both the cab heater and water heater lines have to be cleared away.
As well as disconnect the lines to the A/C compressor and its electric end.
Tires won't clear, but bare rims did.
Remove the bumper (easier at the two big bolts), the grill and the filler piece under that.
Up on top of the engine there are many vacuum lines and electrical connections.
I unloaded the torsion bars. I measured the protruding adjusting bolt and reset it to the same place.
If you choose, I am told that you can unbolt the torsion bar anchor frame and bring it out still loaded.
You may have to disconnect the parking brake cable. (I am unsure at this point.)
Support the frame on wood over a long area behind the frame splices.
The air filter housing and distributor cap should clear, but I never took that risk.
The cab supports are a single bolt in a rubber mount, but there is usually a grounding strap at one of those.
Be ready...
Remove the twelve fasteners at the frame splice and have the front frame supported on moveable things. (I used a combination of floor jacks and my
Go-jacks with some wood cribbing. They could not help with lifting.)
Now look it over carefully to see what you missed.
Pull the entire front forward a little and look again for something that is hung up (BTDT)
When the package is clear, you have unbelievable access to the power plant. There is enough room to get serious with the blue wench to get the
exhaust apart.
It is not necessary to support the cab area, but I am sort of (OK Really) paranoid so I cut and wedged a couple of 2*4s under it.
One of the best parts is the "ship in a bottle" aspect of reassembling the FEAD is just not an issue.
When I was ready to put the power plant back together and test run it, I just jury rigged fuel, electric and some temperature instruments, and spun it
around so the exhaust was pointed out the door and did the test run and cam break-in right there. (And chased down a small lube oil leak.)
Unfortunately, I got to do this twice separated by about a year. My front frame got bent when we broke a lower control arm and hit the median and ~60
into a 4' deep drain. Chaumière is again road worthy and her pleasant self, but I still have some cosmetic work to do.
This is is pretty complete list, but I am sure that I missed something.
Before you put it back in, punch a big hole in the top of the bell housing and mark the ring gear so timing will now be simple. I really am going to
write this up some day, but I keep forgetting to get better pictures than I have now.
Hope this is a help to someone.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> Do you mean Dave advocates removing the whole front end, frame sections, suspension, the works?? Sounds great, but can you give us any more
> detail?
Doug,
Not a lot of detail to give if you have spent any time under there.....
Write a complete list of everything you have wanted to do in the engine room. You may never have this opportunity again.
Have digital camera handy and try to take too many pictures. I missed a bunch of the detail of the FEAD assembly and how the brake lines were
routed.
By the lines:
The main engine battery has to come out and the house bank on a 23.
You have to remove the battery try and the steering box.
Take the lines off the master cylinder and disconnect the brake line to the rear. Pay attention to where these route and mount.
Disconnect the fuel line and the vapor vent line where they come forward.
Where you break the exhaust is your choice.
Remove the shift and throttle cables.
Both the cab heater and water heater lines have to be cleared away.
As well as disconnect the lines to the A/C compressor and its electric end.
Tires won't clear, but bare rims did.
Remove the bumper (easier at the two big bolts), the grill and the filler piece under that.
Up on top of the engine there are many vacuum lines and electrical connections.
I unloaded the torsion bars. I measured the protruding adjusting bolt and reset it to the same place.
If you choose, I am told that you can unbolt the torsion bar anchor frame and bring it out still loaded.
You may have to disconnect the parking brake cable. (I am unsure at this point.)
Support the frame on wood over a long area behind the frame splices.
The air filter housing and distributor cap should clear, but I never took that risk.
The cab supports are a single bolt in a rubber mount, but there is usually a grounding strap at one of those.
Be ready...
Remove the twelve fasteners at the frame splice and have the front frame supported on moveable things. (I used a combination of floor jacks and my
Go-jacks with some wood cribbing. They could not help with lifting.)
Now look it over carefully to see what you missed.
Pull the entire front forward a little and look again for something that is hung up (BTDT)
When the package is clear, you have unbelievable access to the power plant. There is enough room to get serious with the blue wench to get the
exhaust apart.
It is not necessary to support the cab area, but I am sort of (OK Really) paranoid so I cut and wedged a couple of 2*4s under it.
One of the best parts is the "ship in a bottle" aspect of reassembling the FEAD is just not an issue.
When I was ready to put the power plant back together and test run it, I just jury rigged fuel, electric and some temperature instruments, and spun it
around so the exhaust was pointed out the door and did the test run and cam break-in right there. (And chased down a small lube oil leak.)
Unfortunately, I got to do this twice separated by about a year. My front frame got bent when we broke a lower control arm and hit the median and ~60
into a 4' deep drain. Chaumière is again road worthy and her pleasant self, but I still have some cosmetic work to do.
This is is pretty complete list, but I am sure that I missed something.
Before you put it back in, punch a big hole in the top of the bell housing and mark the ring gear so timing will now be simple. I really am going to
write this up some day, but I keep forgetting to get better pictures than I have now.
Hope this is a help to someone.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
