Engine question

[jim d.]

Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop that
installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor. He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over metal
particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of charge.
They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I leave the
remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild and could do
it will I'm under there.
Thank Jim
--
Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
NH natives
1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.

 

[charles boyd]

Sir: most large towns have oil analysis labs. I would check with a local big truck dealer and get their recommendation for a good one. Then take an
oil sample and the filter / filters for them to open up and look for any foreign material.

> Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop
> that installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor. He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over
> metal particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of
> charge. They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I
> leave the remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild
> and could do it will I'm under there.
> Thank Jim

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

 

[Matt Colie]

> Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop
> that installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor. He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over
> metal particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of
> charge. They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I
> leave the remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild
> and could do it will I'm under there.
> Thank Jim

Jim,

I would first check that the added lube oil filter is in the return from the cooler. In the case of an engine making metal, sometimes it can hide in
a cooler. Unfortunately, I did not see the involved parts. I am concerned that at 1000 miles, it could have been an assembly issue. I do not know
S&J, but production rebuilders (like one named for the the Indiana city that they are in) often have quality issues that lead to this sort of
failure.

To actually answer your question, if the engine has been showing good lube oil pressure, leave it in there. It should not hurt anything. Maybe
revisit this at the next lube oil service. The OE filter placement actually should filter all the lube oil coming back from the cooler in the
radiator.

You say "The Main". Do you know which shell spun? And did it actually spin or just shed bearing material. Shops tend to be less observant than
durability and warranty inspectors (like me). The reason I ask is that I have now seen several 455 that had cracks in the lube oil port to the
thrust bearing that is in the center. If they did not inspect for this, they may not have seen it.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[roy keen]

In my opinion the 455 generally spins the rod bearings .in my case it was # 7&8 closest the filter. If it were my engine I would remove the oil cooler
in the radiator and plumb in a large new air cooled cooler or replace the complete radiator with a new one cause I don't feel you would ever get all
the metal out of the old cooler . Also carefully clean or replace the external cooler lines. All this must be done before you start the new motor . I
believe the 2nd filter was installed to catch metal coming out of your old oil cooler but I wouldn't trust it cause if it went in bypass mode the
metal could get thru to the stock filter then if this filter went into bypass the metal could get into the motor. Some folks don't think this could
happen but I sure believe it could. I trust your rebuilder got all those oil passages squeaky clean . After the first oil change I would cut open
the oil filter to be sure there was no metal in it for piece of mind. A lot of times the new motor won't fail for several thousand miles.

--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[roy keen]

Before someone comments on filter bypass locations i'm assuming the bypass in the foreign filter is located in the filter the olds filter has it the
mounting housing.
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[adolph santorine]

Jim:

Many here use Blackstone Labs for our oil work.

Many of us have aviation or racing ties, and “oil work” is essential to either.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

They have a spiffy new website!

I’m sending a copy of the oil work on my coach so you know what they might look like.

You’re either going to have an early failure, or it will take a few miles to get a good picture of what’s going on.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop that
> installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor. He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over metal
> particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of charge.
> They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I leave the
> remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild and could do
> it will I'm under there.
> Thank Jim
> --
> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
> NH natives
> 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
> Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the country.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[Jim Hupy]

My education and experience with spun bearings most often points to crud in
the engine, in your case, if in fact they used ANY part of the oiling
system from the old engine, no matter how cautious they were, and diligent
in their cleaning process, it only takes a minimal amount of crud in there
to start the cascading failure.
Take one of the hairs from a normal person's head, and split it
lengthwise. That is the diameter of a particle in a brand new engine that
will cause havoc.
S and J sets up every engine that they do on their sim test machine.
It simulates a running engine, except that a powerful electric motor
actually drives the crankshaft. They measure the current draw on the motor
while the test is in progress. They also measure heating on the bearings,
while a constant flow of new oil flows through the lube system.
If they had any tight clearances, it is unlikely that they would not
notice it.
That being said, "stuff does happen ". I personally just finished an
install on a S&J engine that they repaired for a customer that was a year
and 12,000 miles out of warranty. They paid shipping both ways, and rebuilt
his engine (rings, mains, rods, polished both the cam and crank), etc. for
$500.00. More than fair.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon

On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 12:54 PM Dolph Santorine via Gmclist <

> Jim:
>
> Many here use Blackstone Labs for our oil work.
>
> Many of us have aviation or racing ties, and “oil work” is essential to
> either.
>
> https://www.blackstone-labs.com https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
>
> They have a spiffy new website!
>
> I’m sending a copy of the oil work on my coach so you know what they might
> look like.
>
> You’re either going to have an early failure, or it will take a few miles
> to get a good picture of what’s going on.
>
>
>
> Dolph
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
> Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>
> “The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
>
> > On Jun 8, 2019, at 2:05 PM, Jim D. via Gmclist

> >
> > Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in
> our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop
> that
> > installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor.
> He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over metal
> > particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new
> rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of
> charge.
> > They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was
> old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I leave the
> > remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to
> OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild and could
> do
> > it will I'm under there.
> > Thank Jim
> > --
> > Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
> > NH natives
> > 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
> > Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the
> country.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[jim d.]

Thanks for the response and input. When I drain the oil out I’ll send it out to get checked. I live in a small town but there’s a big rig shop in town that might be able to help with the oil analysis.
Matt in regards to your question as which shell spun or it shedding material. I can honestly answer that. Both times we were just told that there was debris in the engine. My fault on not being more diligent as to the failure.
Now I do have a new large aluminum radiator from JimK that was installed right before the engine failure and reinstalled after the new engine went in. More so because we couldn’t afford to replace it while we were on the road. Talking with you gentlemen sounds like that could of been a possibility for letting debris get into the new engine. I just don’t know.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> My education and experience with spun bearings most often points to crud in
> the engine, in your case, if in fact they used ANY part of the oiling
> system from the old engine, no matter how cautious they were, and diligent
> in their cleaning process, it only takes a minimal amount of crud in there
> to start the cascading failure.
> Take one of the hairs from a normal person's head, and split it
> lengthwise. That is the diameter of a particle in a brand new engine that
> will cause havoc.
> S and J sets up every engine that they do on their sim test machine.
> It simulates a running engine, except that a powerful electric motor
> actually drives the crankshaft. They measure the current draw on the motor
> while the test is in progress. They also measure heating on the bearings,
> while a constant flow of new oil flows through the lube system.
> If they had any tight clearances, it is unlikely that they would not
> notice it.
> That being said, "stuff does happen ". I personally just finished an
> install on a S&J engine that they repaired for a customer that was a year
> and 12,000 miles out of warranty. They paid shipping both ways, and rebuilt
> his engine (rings, mains, rods, polished both the cam and crank), etc. for
> $500.00. More than fair.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 12:54 PM Dolph Santorine via Gmclist <

>
>> Jim:
>>
>> Many here use Blackstone Labs for our oil work.
>>
>> Many of us have aviation or racing ties, and “oil work” is essential to
>> either.
>>
>> https://www.blackstone-labs.com https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
>>
>> They have a spiffy new website!
>>
>> I’m sending a copy of the oil work on my coach so you know what they might
>> look like.
>>
>> You’re either going to have an early failure, or it will take a few miles
>> to get a good picture of what’s going on.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dolph
>>
>> DE AD0LF
>>
>> Wheeling, West Virginia
>>
>> 1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
>> Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
>>
>> “The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"
>>
>>>> On Jun 8, 2019, at 2:05 PM, Jim D. via Gmclist

>>>
>>> Need some input from the engine gurus. 9 months ago we spun the main in
>> our original motor. Had it replaced with an S&J engine in Utah. The shop
>> that
>>> installed the new motor put a remote inline oil filter on the new motor.
>> He was being cautious and didn't want to worry about any let over metal
>>> particulates. Much to our fortune less the 1000 miles later the new
>> rebuilt motor from S&J spun the main. They replaced that motor free of
>> charge.
>>> They said they found metal in the motor but couldn't determine if it was
>> old or again we were just very unlucky. My question is. Should I leave the
>>> remote inline oil filter on the new motor or return the system back to
>> OEM. I'm about to change the break in oil from the newest rebuild and could
>> do
>>> it will I'm under there.
>>> Thank Jim
>>> --
>>> Jim DeMellia and Jen Radefeld and our cat Ickis
>>> NH natives
>>> 1975 GMC “Palm Beach” ,455, her names Linda
>>> Full time RVers exploring the beautiful and unusual parts of the
>> country.
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[john r. lebetski]

Sending oil out now to Blackstone will not tell if the metal from the previous engine was the problem. If I understand correctly the Olds has a
differential bypass in the filter housing. The oil filters speced do not. The filter is after the cooler. Therefore all debris coming from the cooler
will be trapped before entering oil galleys. HOWEVER, adding a second in line filter MAY create enough differential pressiure to open the filter
bypass and let crud to the bearings. So the added protection device is what may have wiped your engine by allowing unfiltered oil to your bearings.
Not to be confused with the oil pressure relief valve set around 60 psi, this valve is only a few pounds of differential pressure.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[jim kanomata1]

If the new radiator oil cooler is contamiated,put in a air cooled oil
cooler.
You'll never be able to clean it .

On Sat, Jun 8, 2019 at 5:09 PM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> Sending oil out now to Blackstone will not tell if the metal from the
> previous engine was the problem. If I understand correctly the Olds has a
> differential bypass in the filter housing. The oil filters speced do not.
> The filter is after the cooler. Therefore all debris coming from the cooler
> will be trapped before entering oil galleys. HOWEVER, adding a second in
> line filter MAY create enough differential pressiure to open the filter
> bypass and let crud to the bearings. So the added protection device is
> what may have wiped your engine by allowing unfiltered oil to your bearings.
> Not to be confused with the oil pressure relief valve set around 60 psi,
> this valve is only a few pounds of differential pressure.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[Jim Hupy]

Absolutely NEVER, EVER use any oil cooler or lines that go to it that has
been involved in an engine failure that involves insert bearings. Take off
the oil filter adaptor base, and inspect it. If you see any metal
glistening in there, replace it too.
Jim Hupy

On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 9:35 PM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

> If the new radiator oil cooler is contamiated,put in a air cooled oil
> cooler.
> You'll never be able to clean it .
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019 at 5:09 PM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

>
> > Sending oil out now to Blackstone will not tell if the metal from the
> > previous engine was the problem. If I understand correctly the Olds has a
> > differential bypass in the filter housing. The oil filters speced do
> not.
> > The filter is after the cooler. Therefore all debris coming from the
> cooler
> > will be trapped before entering oil galleys. HOWEVER, adding a second in
> > line filter MAY create enough differential pressiure to open the filter
> > bypass and let crud to the bearings. So the added protection device is
> > what may have wiped your engine by allowing unfiltered oil to your
> bearings.
> > Not to be confused with the oil pressure relief valve set around 60 psi,
> > this valve is only a few pounds of differential pressure.
> > --
> > John Lebetski
> > Woodstock, IL
> > 77 Eleganza II
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[jim kanomata1]

There is only one place that can clean it, it must be an Aurcraft FAA
approved place .
They charge about the same price as the new cooler.

On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 12:22 AM James Hupy via Gmclist <

> Absolutely NEVER, EVER use any oil cooler or lines that go to it that has
> been involved in an engine failure that involves insert bearings. Take off
> the oil filter adaptor base, and inspect it. If you see any metal
> glistening in there, replace it too.
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 9:35 PM Jim Kanomata via Gmclist <

>
> > If the new radiator oil cooler is contamiated,put in a air cooled oil
> > cooler.
> > You'll never be able to clean it .
> >
> > On Sat, Jun 8, 2019 at 5:09 PM John R. Lebetski via Gmclist <

> >
> > > Sending oil out now to Blackstone will not tell if the metal from the
> > > previous engine was the problem. If I understand correctly the Olds
> has a
> > > differential bypass in the filter housing. The oil filters speced do
> > not.
> > > The filter is after the cooler. Therefore all debris coming from the
> > cooler
> > > will be trapped before entering oil galleys. HOWEVER, adding a second
> in
> > > line filter MAY create enough differential pressiure to open the filter
> > > bypass and let crud to the bearings. So the added protection device is
> > > what may have wiped your engine by allowing unfiltered oil to your
> > bearings.
> > > Not to be confused with the oil pressure relief valve set around 60
> psi,
> > > this valve is only a few pounds of differential pressure.
> > > --
> > > John Lebetski
> > > Woodstock, IL
> > > 77 Eleganza II
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Kanomata
> > Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> > jimk
> > http://www.appliedgmc.com
> > 1-800-752-7502
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[bill wevers]

Just some information I've gleaned after spinning rod bearings:
The oil filter bypass valve is set to 5.6PSI. It will open when
the oil is cold, first starting up. And any debris will get pumped
into the engine oil galleys.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/big-blocks-2/olds-455-oil-pump-10351/
Adding an external oil filter will cause the bypass valve to open more frequently.
The hot rod guys usually shim-up the spring in the oil filter bypass or block it
entirely when adding an external oil filter to the Olds.
Chevrolet has a kit for increasing the oil filter bypass to 20 PSI on their motors.
--
Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
455 F Block, G heads
San Jose

 

[Jim Hupy]

My current thinking goes kinda like this: When I install a new engine, I
leave the remote oil cooler crap off entirely during the break-in period.
Then drain the break-in oil and take a sample for Blackstone Labs, remove
the oil filter, cut it open and look for excess metal. Finding none, I
replace the old lines and use an air to oil cooler. I do not reuse the
cooler in the radiator. Those things have bit me in the back side once too
many times. You do what makes you happy. I have to guarantee the work I do.
Jim Hupy

On Mon, Jun 10, 2019, 10:34 AM Bill Wevers via Gmclist <

> Just some information I've gleaned after spinning rod bearings:
> The oil filter bypass valve is set to 5.6PSI. It will open when
> the oil is cold, first starting up. And any debris will get pumped
> into the engine oil galleys.
> https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/big-blocks-2/olds-455-oil-pump-10351/
> Adding an external oil filter will cause the bypass valve to open more
> frequently.
> The hot rod guys usually shim-up the spring in the oil filter bypass or
> block it
> entirely when adding an external oil filter to the Olds.
> Chevrolet has a kit for increasing the oil filter bypass to 20 PSI on
> their motors.
> --
> Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
> 1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
> 455 F Block, G heads
> San Jose
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[john r. lebetski]

Yes Bill that helps clear it up, but people in that forum are still confusing the main pressure valve (about 60 PSI ) and the valve in the filter
loop that you refered to. More external plumbing and extra filters and coolers put you closer to having that valve allow dirt to the engine.
Especially true for the guys that love the 15W-50 oil choice.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[Jim Hupy]

Old lines with brand new ones along with the cooler.
Jim Hupy

> My current thinking goes kinda like this: When I install a new engine, I
> leave the remote oil cooler crap off entirely during the break-in period.
> Then drain the break-in oil and take a sample for Blackstone Labs, remove
> the oil filter, cut it open and look for excess metal. Finding none, I
> replace the old lines and use an air to oil cooler. I do not reuse the
> cooler in the radiator. Those things have bit me in the back side once too
> many times. You do what makes you happy. I have to guarantee the work I do.
> Jim Hupy
>
> On Mon, Jun 10, 2019, 10:34 AM Bill Wevers via Gmclist <

>
>> Just some information I've gleaned after spinning rod bearings:
>> The oil filter bypass valve is set to 5.6PSI. It will open when
>> the oil is cold, first starting up. And any debris will get pumped
>> into the engine oil galleys.
>> https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/big-blocks-2/olds-455-oil-pump-10351/
>> Adding an external oil filter will cause the bypass valve to open more
>> frequently.
>> The hot rod guys usually shim-up the spring in the oil filter bypass or
>> block it
>> entirely when adding an external oil filter to the Olds.
>> Chevrolet has a kit for increasing the oil filter bypass to 20 PSI on
>> their motors.
>> --
>> Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
>> 1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
>> 455 F Block, G heads
>> San Jose
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>

 

[jim d.]

If I could of afforded to replace the aluminum radiator after the engine failed I would. But at $800 before shipping was not in the cards and still isn’t. I plan on removing the inline filter and returning it back to OEM. I’ll replace all the oil cooler lines again and I’ve been scoping out external oil coolers to add inline. I’ll send out the break in oil to Blackstone and hopefully get a good report back.

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Old lines with brand new ones along with the cooler.
> Jim Hupy
>

>>
>> My current thinking goes kinda like this: When I install a new engine, I
>> leave the remote oil cooler crap off entirely during the break-in period.
>> Then drain the break-in oil and take a sample for Blackstone Labs, remove
>> the oil filter, cut it open and look for excess metal. Finding none, I
>> replace the old lines and use an air to oil cooler. I do not reuse the
>> cooler in the radiator. Those things have bit me in the back side once too
>> many times. You do what makes you happy. I have to guarantee the work I do.
>> Jim Hupy
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 10, 2019, 10:34 AM Bill Wevers via Gmclist <

>>
>>> Just some information I've gleaned after spinning rod bearings:
>>> The oil filter bypass valve is set to 5.6PSI. It will open when
>>> the oil is cold, first starting up. And any debris will get pumped
>>> into the engine oil galleys.
>>> https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/big-blocks-2/olds-455-oil-pump-10351/
>>> Adding an external oil filter will cause the bypass valve to open more
>>> frequently.
>>> The hot rod guys usually shim-up the spring in the oil filter bypass or
>>> block it
>>> entirely when adding an external oil filter to the Olds.
>>> Chevrolet has a kit for increasing the oil filter bypass to 20 PSI on
>>> their motors.
>>> --
>>> Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
>>> 1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
>>> 455 F Block, G heads
>>> San Jose
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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[roy keen]

Putting a 2 nd identical spring interwound with the original spring will double the pressure required to open the bypass valve in the filter mounting
block. In my opinion this is a more realistic bypass pressure. The bypass in the filter block opens far more off-in with the remote cooler then if
there isn't any external piping .
--
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook

 

[john r. lebetski]

Is the cooler in the new Griffin radiator a different style than the old Harrison type Is it reverse flushable?
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

 

[les burt]

I would expect the bypass valve springs in these engines to have gotten somewhat weaker over the past 40-45 years. This could result in the oil bypassing the filter much more often than we think.

It has me wondering if engine builders are actually testing the bypass spring. I haven’t looked, so I am unaware of any bypass spring specs beyond the bypass psi rating found in MM X-7525 that states the valve opens at 5.3 to 6.3 psi.

Is there a published spring spec for the bypass spring that provides
Force applied at X compression height?

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'