Engine Hoist

[bdub]

I'll post this engine hoist for sale tomorrow on gmcws. Thought I'd let
ya'll know first in case someone here wants first shot at it.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
I have a custom made engine hoist and trolley system designed to remove and
install an engine in the 26 ft. model. I want to list it for sale in
the"market Place" I will accept any reasonable offer.
Ed Staal, 310-374-7678, email - elaatse
- ---------------
I should make a correction, it is just the trolley, no hoist attached.
It is in Redondo Beach, CA. I think it is too big and heavy to be shipped.
The trolley is 11 feet long. I can have some pic's available.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

bdub

 

[gene]

Hummmmm nice place to live,
I guess I should come get the pictures...... nah I have to go to Or.

gene

>I made my frame with no problem using $28 of remnants from the steel yard,=
a
>few 3/8" bolts and some 2' channel and angle iron that I had laying around.
>The transverse triangular bipods end frames are 0.062 wall 2X2 square=
tubing
>legs and 2" angle for the base supports. The main beam is a 2x4x0.0125 in.
>wall tubing I removed the rear view mirror to allow the beam to be as high
>and as far forward as possible. The trolley was made from two 2" fixed
>steel casters bolted under a 2" channel. The casters ride on top of the
>2X4X0.125 wall tube The come-along is hung on a bolt running through 1/8"
>straps that attach=E9 to the channel above the casters anddrop down=
alongside
>the 2X4 tube on each side. Short angle braces went from each bi-pod leg to
>the beam. The 2x2 sq tubes were notched to help support the beam similar=
to
>the way a sawhorse is made.All members were simple pinned joints using the
>bolts, so there are no bending moments in any of the support members except
>in the main beam. Remember we are only dealing with 600lb or so therefore
>hardware grade bolts are ok since they are all in double shear. I did use=
a
>grade 5 bolt for the long come along support to eliminate any bending
>
>The whole thing took me a half a day to fabricate using my hand circular=
saw
>and a metal cutting friction blade. It takes five minutes to assemble or
>remove. I was able to do the whole engine job working alone. As you well
>know the most work is re-installing all the accessories. The actual=
mate-up
>was easy since I fabricated a lifting plate with a machinery eye attached=
at
>the carburetor mounting. This held the engine very level and required only
>minor jockeying to mate with the transmission. It was not necessary to
>remove the right axle, only the axel bearing to engine attachment.
>I will send the pictures to Gene Fisher with notes and dimensions to put on
>his web site since my scanner is out.
>I can give more details off line, or it is available to any one who wants=
to
>make the trip to beautiful Yosemite area.
>Frank Condos
>Ahwahnee, CA
>
>
Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/

 

[gene]

Here is what many of you have been waiting to see. Frank's hoist and=20
trolly to remove the engine from the top

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u 128904&a 7411134&p 25209792

gene

>To: gmcmotorhome
>From: gene
>Subject: re: GMC: Engine Hoist
>

>>I made my frame with no problem using $28 of remnants from the steel yard,=
a
>>few 3/8" bolts and some 2' channel and angle iron that I had laying=
around.
>>The transverse triangular bipods end frames are 0.062 wall 2X2 square=
tubing
>>legs and 2" angle for the base supports. The main beam is a 2x4x0.0125=
in.
>>wall tubing I removed the rear view mirror to allow the beam to be as high
>>and as far forward as possible. The trolley was made from two 2" fixed
>>steel casters bolted under a 2" channel. The casters ride on top of the
>>2X4X0.125 wall tube The come-along is hung on a bolt running through 1/8"
>>straps that attach=E9 to the channel above the casters anddrop down=
alongside
>>the 2X4 tube on each side. Short angle braces went from each bi-pod leg=
to
>>the beam. The 2x2 sq tubes were notched to help support the beam similar=
to
>>the way a sawhorse is made.All members were simple pinned joints using the
>>bolts, so there are no bending moments in any of the support members=
except
>>in the main beam. Remember we are only dealing with 600lb or so therefore
>>hardware grade bolts are ok since they are all in double shear. I did use=
a
>>grade 5 bolt for the long come along support to eliminate any bending
>>
>>The whole thing took me a half a day to fabricate using my hand circular=
saw
>>and a metal cutting friction blade. It takes five minutes to assemble or
>>remove. I was able to do the whole engine job working alone. As you well
>>know the most work is re-installing all the accessories. The actual=
mate-up
>>was easy since I fabricated a lifting plate with a machinery eye attached=
at
>>the carburetor mounting. This held the engine very level and required=
only
>>minor jockeying to mate with the transmission. It was not necessary to
>>remove the right axle, only the axel bearing to engine attachment.
>>I will send the pictures to Gene Fisher with notes and dimensions to put=
on
>>his web site since my scanner is out.
>>I can give more details off line, or it is available to any one who wants=
to
>>make the trip to beautiful Yosemite area.
>>Frank Condos
>>Ahwahnee, CA

Genef -- 77PB/ore/ca
GMC MOTORHOME INFORMATION
mr.erf
http://www.california.com/~eagle/ http://www.california.com/~eagle/

 

[bdub]

Thanks for posting this Gene. And thanks for sharing it Chuck. It's a
great looking system. Looks more stable than the one written up in today's
GMCMM.

bdub

>Here is what many of you have been waiting to see. Frank's hoist and
>trolly to remove the engine from the top
>
>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=128904&a=7411134&p=25209792
>
>gene