Engine and Transmission install in an open clip

[Matt Colie]

I am hoping someone has experience that will be helpful. I have the clip out, the engine is about done, but I also plan to lift the transmission out
to do the filter and inspect the pinion bearing (as that has been recently an issue for some).

Will I be better off if I reinstall the engine and transmission from the top as a unit, or as two separate pieces?

I'm getting there, but it is all going more slowly than I would like. (Of Course)

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Ken H.]

Matt,

As you probably recall, I always R&R the engine+transmission+FD together
from the bottom into my GMC. There's room for debate about that being the
easiest way. With the clip out of the coach, I can't imagine doing it any
other way than dropping the whole drivetrain down onto the clip, there
being nothing above it to interfere.

I presume you're going to go ahead and install the radiator, hoses, etc.,
and run the whole thing as a test stand? You may even want to run it this
way for a while:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3829-toronado-powered-ztr.html



Ken H.

> I am hoping someone has experience that will be helpful. I have the clip
> out, the engine is about done, but I also plan to lift the transmission out
> to do the filter and inspect the pinion bearing (as that has been recently
> an issue for some).
>
> Will I be better off if I reinstall the engine and transmission from the
> top as a unit, or as two separate pieces?
>
> I'm getting there, but it is all going more slowly than I would like. (Of
> Course)
>
> Matt
> --
>

 

[Rdenney]

Others with more experience may have a different opinion, but I would want
to mate them as soon as possible. And not just the transmission, but the
final drive as well, if you have a stand than can hold it. The reason is
that the final drive and intermediate axle hangs off the engine as much as
the transmission, and getting it into a tight unit while you can work all
around it without being on your back will be easier. But your lifting
capability has to be able to handle the 900 pounds of combined weight
safely and reliably.

Rick "always taking advantage of more room to work" Denney

> I am hoping someone has experience that will be helpful. I have the clip
> out, the engine is about done, but I also plan to lift the transmission out
> to do the filter and inspect the pinion bearing (as that has been recently
> an issue for some).
>
> Will I be better off if I reinstall the engine and transmission from the
> top as a unit, or as two separate pieces?
>
> I'm getting there, but it is all going more slowly than I would like. (Of
> Course)
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com

 

[johnny]

Are you taking the existing clip out and replacing with the one that's out, or what? If the clip is out, build it to the inner axle plates and then
replace the clip. If it's in, get an A frame, lift the engine in and get the front mount set, then lift the transmission in from the bottom. Get
the measurements for the transmission lifting tool, it's a life and finger saver. Lift by the tool with the a frame. It will clear the flywheel and
final drive by maybe half an inch. Be sure the rear mount is loose but not unbolted so it cal lean back. Use a chain fall on the trans so it can be
lifted/lowered the amount necessary as necessary. George and I have done mine once and Henry's twice. Jerry and Chuck and Mark have done mine once.
It's a two people job unless you're Manny. Actuall it's doable one handed, but you'll do a lot of up and back if you singlehanded it with an a frame.
On the clip outside the coach, it's a piece of cake.
The 'transmission tool' is a piece of steel stock with a tab and bolt hole on one side and a pin on the other side, a large hole at the top. Pin goes
in an upper bellhousing bolt hole, tab is bolted finger tight to a bottom hole across from it. Lifts with the large hole and it's close enough to the
CG to easily position the transmission side to side or tilted. Check the tool first, chuck had two and the [pin diameter was too large on one to use
it. The other was fine.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

 

[jim wagner]

Matt,
I haven't been following your posts but if you have the front clip out and have rebuilt the motor I would put it all together and install it as one
unit. This will also allow you to run the motor to break in the cam and check for leaks and noises!! The assembled unit is balanced and is easy to
move around as you can see from the photo. I would suggest replacing the tires and wheels with a couple of rims when you install it. This will give
you more clearance. I think the upper shock mounts were the highest part of the clip to clear.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/engine-removal-26amp-3b-caddy-500-swap/p761.html

Good luck and be safe under there.
Jim Wagner
Brook Park, oh

76 GMC500
71 Vega355
69 Vette383

 

[wayne rogewski]

If it helps Matt, and you end up rolling everything back in, I have two 16.5 inch bare wheels you can borrow to get a bit more clearance if you need
them.

--
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan

 

[sgltrac]

Agreed. Assemble the whole power plant and drivetrain and roll it in. The
cooling system can be pre assembled as well. Super easy if you have a
forklift. That’s how I did mine.

Sully
Bellevue

> If it helps Matt, and you end up rolling everything back in, I have two
> 16.5 inch bare wheels you can borrow to get a bit more clearance if you need
> them.
>
>
> --
> 77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson
> carb and dizzy.
> Mid Michigan
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

 

[Matt Colie]

> If it helps Matt, and you end up rolling everything back in, I have two 16.5 inch bare wheels you can borrow to get a bit more clearance if you
> need them.

Wayne,

I appreciate the offer, but I have rolling it all handled.

My real problem was that I was torn between assembling it in the frame or assembling the engine and transmission on the floor then loading that in the
frame. That is what I have decided to do. I just changed out the lift cylinder in the engine hoist so I now have some confidence that it will lift
the assembly.

I am on a roll now. I just was doing a check can cannot confirm that the fastener that secures the timing gear was pulled to full tension. I may
open the front of the engine Up just to check. That will kill a day, but I would prefer to loose a day than an engine.....

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Ken H.]

Matt,

That sounds like me in '98 when I had to rebuild the engine in my new-to-me
GMC. After buttoning up the front of the engine, I went to bed and got to
reviewing in my head the progress on my first-in-30-years rebuild. I could
NOT remember torquing the 3 bolts holding the timing gear on the cam.

It was only the next morning, after removing the timing chain cover and
seeing the gear, that I remembered torquing that ONE bolt!

Ken H.

> ​...
>
> I am on a roll now. I just was doing a check can cannot confirm that the
> fastener that secures the timing gear was pulled to full tension. I may
> open the front of the engine Up just to check. That will kill a day, but
> I would prefer to loose a day than an engine.....
>
>