Engine and Generator compartments

[blank]

>
> I contacted http://www.sea-fire.com/ about their
> extinguishers.

> The automatic fusible link is available in 212 degrees and
> 286 degrees.
>
> I need input on what you guys and gals think what the fusible
> link for the automatic should be either 212 or 286?

212 would probably be fine, but I doubt that 286 would be much of a delay.

> Recycled Halon or FM200? (Halon maybe not available down the road)

This is kinda' tough. I understand that FM200 emits extremely corrosive
byproducts if used on a "flaming" fire(to the point that it etched windows
on a test chamber) and I would prefer Halon were it not for the availability
question. I guess I'd go with FM200 on the basis that the corrosion
wouldn't be an issue since we're not dealing with an enclosed environment.

> Once discharged--this company will refill at one half the
> cost of a new one(retail or wholesale I don't know)

Probably retail, but fair enough considering this is something you might use
once and hopefully never.

Patrick

 

[blank]

Scott,

This is an unavoidable byproduct of a halogenated extinguishant(my daddy
would be pleased with that sentence - evidence his tuition dollars weren't
wasted). Halons did it too. The agent itself isn't corrosive, but it
works by "capturing" the free radical with a halogen atom. Unfortunately,
halogenated hydrocarbons are usually acidic. This was a problem in the test
cell because it was totally enclosed(a total flooding application, such as a
computer room) where our situation is not. The corrosive effects would
probably be no worse than a trip to the Keys, just make a mental note to
hose the engine compartment down with fresh water and maybe some baking soda
if this unit ever discharges.

The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning back toward a CO2 system.
Cheap, clean, available anywhere and pretty effective too. You could
install two 5lb bottles horizontally under the dinette seat for a two-shot
system and hardly miss the storage space.

Some of the new "water mist" systems look good too, but I keep finding
technical snags with them. Too heavy, too complex, etc.

Patrick

>
> Hi Patrick!!
> From talking to the salesman he never mentioned anything
> about corrsiveness with FM200. What you say I don't
> like--but I believe you!!!
>
> We did discuss the Dupont product Fe241 which when exposed to
> flame produces a byproduct which is an acid Great --Knock
> down the flame but the engine and alu disintegrate right
> before your eyes
>
> Scott
>

 

[blank]

I hear ya' Rick, but I haven't even gotten that far looking at pressurized
water systems. You've got to have high pressure(at least 80psig), so you're
looking at some sort of propellant(high pressure nitrogen with a regulator)
or a high pressure/low volume pump. Add to that another water tank(if you
opt for the propellant, then it must be a pressure vessel) as it's not a
good idea to mix potable and fire protection systems(AAMOF you can't if you
decide to premix a wetting agent like Cold Fire in the water).

Simple is better...
Patrick

>
> In a message dated 6/28/00 5:53:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time,

>
> > Some of the new "water mist" systems look good too, but I
> > keep finding technical snags with them. Too heavy, too
> > complex, etc.
> >
>
> Patrick,
> I think I agree with you here. My concern with the soap
> bubble/water-mist etc. systems is winter. I don't need
> anything else to winterize and de-winterize each year, and
> what if I have a fire when it's 10 below zero??
> Not my idea of reliable/simple system.
> My .02.....
>
> Rick Staples
> '75 Eleganza
> Louisville, CO
>

 

[blank]

Cap,

I guess it's an "occupational hazard", but you've got way too many "ifs" and
"maybes" below for my comfort. Keep in mind that you might have to use this
system once in a lifetime. That once is a bad time to find out that TLAR
engineering wasn't right. The system I install will use components that are
UL listed for the application and I'll probably run the design by both a
local contractor and our in-house engineers before installation.

There are all kinds of hazards associated with using the potable water tank
for this service, not the least of which is allowing your potable water
supply to be contaminated by the stagnant water standing in the fire
protection system. There's also the questions of will the pump work and
will the tank have water in it when you need it.

I'm not trying to be mean and I don't like stomping on ideas, but I've
witnessed too many piles of smoking rubble to take chances with this stuff.
Fire protection is the wrong place to be creative or pinch pennies. I don't
figure my system will be cheap, but I bet it'll cost less than my Alcoa
wheels.

My $.02,
Patrick

>
> I think that a spray from the water system actually could be
> quite useful. That kind of low pressure output would be of
> almost no use from a small hand held device but from a large
> water tank it might provide just enough cooling to allow the
> gas to burn out of the carb without setting the rest of the
> coach on fire. Even if it couldn't put the fire out it
> would slow it down. Maybe enough that you could still
> safely fight it with a fire extinguisher after lowing down
> parking andgetting everbody else out.
>
> Of course you could buy a little electric power washer,
> install a bunch of high pressure lines and nozzles, and a
> big red button buy the door. Kind of heavy, complex and
> expensive and overkill etc. But it would blow any fire
> right out right now and of coure you could tinker with it
> all the time