I had two gremlins pop up recently, the turn/hazard flasher stopped flashing and the timed warning light for setting the Electro-Level became flaky.
I replaced the warning control with the PC setup I've mentioned earlier, just like the previous coach. I've an electronic flasher due Friday for the
turn/hazard. 8 bucks from Amazon Prime, vs 20+ from AutoZone and Advanced.. Both of them failed in that the heater for the bimetal failed. Not
uncommon after 40 years, but a PIA to find them behind the dash.
My roof antenna quit and I identified a short in the coax leading from it to the power injector, so for want of the time to run a new one, I've been
using an outboard coax in the toll window to the injector - works fine but requires a climb up the ladder at setup and knockdown, and it looks tacky.
We be replacing the wire - shorted coax is very uncommon, I suspect it's pinched somewhere.
I've gotten tired of the lack of domelights up front, so I'm tackling them as well. First, disassemble the switches and crocus cloth the contacts.
Fortunately they're made to disassemble. A bit of alcohol, a bit of crocus to polish, and the switches now work. A look at the diagram shows the
three position switch is OFF, ON, and SWITCHED. Switched is connected to the headlight switch like cars of the day - turn the knob to full bright and
it switches the dome on by grounding it. As luck would have it, the door switch also grounds, with a wire 'for use by the upfitter'. Well, mine now
runs to the headlight switch. In the center position, the lamp is off. Go one way, it comes on. Go the other way and the door or the headlight knob
turns it on. No more getting in and fumbling in the dark to get some light up front!. Try it, you'll like it.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
I replaced the warning control with the PC setup I've mentioned earlier, just like the previous coach. I've an electronic flasher due Friday for the
turn/hazard. 8 bucks from Amazon Prime, vs 20+ from AutoZone and Advanced.. Both of them failed in that the heater for the bimetal failed. Not
uncommon after 40 years, but a PIA to find them behind the dash.
My roof antenna quit and I identified a short in the coax leading from it to the power injector, so for want of the time to run a new one, I've been
using an outboard coax in the toll window to the injector - works fine but requires a climb up the ladder at setup and knockdown, and it looks tacky.
We be replacing the wire - shorted coax is very uncommon, I suspect it's pinched somewhere.
I've gotten tired of the lack of domelights up front, so I'm tackling them as well. First, disassemble the switches and crocus cloth the contacts.
Fortunately they're made to disassemble. A bit of alcohol, a bit of crocus to polish, and the switches now work. A look at the diagram shows the
three position switch is OFF, ON, and SWITCHED. Switched is connected to the headlight switch like cars of the day - turn the knob to full bright and
it switches the dome on by grounding it. As luck would have it, the door switch also grounds, with a wire 'for use by the upfitter'. Well, mine now
runs to the headlight switch. In the center position, the lamp is off. Go one way, it comes on. Go the other way and the door or the headlight knob
turns it on. No more getting in and fumbling in the dark to get some light up front!. Try it, you'll like it.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
