EFI vs Carb

mike

New member
Dec 31, 2000
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Hello All,

I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real world" experience, practical vs theory.

I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system, why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?

I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and why,
or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?

As always thank you for your feedback,
Regards,
Mike
 
Where do you go? Up in the mountains to 10,000 feet or more? In freezing
temperatures? These extremes lean towards EFI.

Hello All,

I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real
world" experience, practical vs theory.

I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system,
why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?

I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a
major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and why,
or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?

As always thank you for your feedback,
Regards,
Mike

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I am currently vacillating. My coach has an MSD setup on it, which Miguel installed for the PO. It gets shit mileage. Conversation with the gurus
indicateds it's capabl;e of the same as the carb, so I'm looking into other reasons. One of which is the engine is an 'ooutlaw' byuilt to spec for
one of the vendors by Jasper Engines (before the vendor found out Jasper basically builds junk). I will most likely have Ken H's friend build me an
engine specifically for motorhome service and then decide whether the MSD can be tuned to it - which every indication is that it can - or whether it
goes to Craigslist and I put a Q-jet back on it, or figure a way to fit an AFB under the hatch.

--johnny

--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
I understand that the MSD Atomic is CARB approved for use in CA. Miguel
Mendez swears by these.
https://www.msdperformance.com/brands/atomic/

bdub

On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 2:38 PM, Ronald Pottol
wrote:

> Where do you go? Up in the mountains to 10,000 feet or more? In freezing
> temperatures? These extremes lean towards EFI.
>

>
> Hello All,
>
> I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real
> world" experience, practical vs theory.
>
> I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system,
> why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?
>
> I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a
> major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and why,
> or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?
>
> As always thank you for your feedback,
> Regards,
> Mike
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
MSD says CARB approved for "use on 1987 and older GM passenger cars and trucks” which is great however I would check with a BAR referee to make sure that includes the GMC motorhome before I bought and installed it.

On Nov 15, 2017, at 12:53 PM,


>
> I understand that the MSD Atomic is CARB approved for use in CA. Miguel
> Mendez swears by these.
> https://www.msdperformance.com/brands/atomic/
>
> bdub
>
> On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 2:38 PM, Ronald Pottol

>
>> Where do you go? Up in the mountains to 10,000 feet or more? In freezing
>> temperatures? These extremes lean towards EFI.
>>

>>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real
>> world" experience, practical vs theory.
>>
>> I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system,
>> why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?
>>
>> I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a
>> major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and why,
>> or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?
>>
>> As always thank you for your feedback,
>> Regards,
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

Gary Worobec
gtw5
1973 23 GMC Glacier
1935 Dodge pickup
 
I currently swear >at< mine (Properly installed by Miguel) but I am coming to the conclusion that my lack of mileage is elsewhere in the drive line.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Ron,

Don't worry about the smog, '73 to '75 are exempt from it ( '76 and later are still in the smog law), so change it to what you want.
These older vehicle where supposed to be dropped from the smog law, but greedy Kalifornia can't give up the $$$$...

> Where do you go? Up in the mountains to 10,000 feet or more? In freezing
> temperatures? These extremes lean towards EFI.
>

>
> Hello All,
>
> I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real
> world" experience, practical vs theory.
>
> I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system,
> why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?
>
> I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a
> major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and why,
> or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?
>
> As always thank you for your feedback,
> Regards,
> Mike
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
 
Mike,
I have grown up with EFI from 1990 and know the difference between the
Fitech,MSD,Holly,etc. vs the Howell based unit with the EBL Flash drive ECM.
Why do people not get the economy from these units?
It is all about Ignition timing control and program.The EBL has so much
computing inside the ECM that the others cannot hold a candle to it.
Also there are over 200-300 GMC owners that are running the EBL system.
There are lot of people running the basic Howell system without the EBL
option and not understanding the system.
We sell ALL the EFI units, but only the EBL system deliver the economy that
people are seeking . I can tell you that most of the people with the EBL
are getting minimum of 1-2 mpg economy.
It is a plug and play unit and we have few owners that know lot about it
should one develop problems.
Contact me should you have questions.
If you think for a second that by going to a EFI, you get around the vapor
lock problem, you do not understand fuel delivery.

On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Adrien Genesoto via Gmclist <

> Ron,
>
> Don't worry about the smog, '73 to '75 are exempt from it ( '76 and later
> are still in the smog law), so change it to what you want.
> These older vehicle where supposed to be dropped from the smog law, but
> greedy Kalifornia can't give up the $$$$...
>
>

> > Where do you go? Up in the mountains to 10,000 feet or more? In freezing
> > temperatures? These extremes lean towards EFI.
> >

> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some
> "real
> > world" experience, practical vs theory.
> >
> > I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI
> system,
> > why one over the other and if EFI which system to go with?
> >
> > I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a
> > major difference between the two (if you chose one over the other) and
> why,
> > or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?
> >
> > As always thank you for your feedback,
> > Regards,
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> ”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the
> mistakes that we might have avoided.”
>
>
>
> Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
> 75 Glenbrook 26-3
> Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Ron,

In 2008 I installed a Q-jet rebuilt by Dick Paterson and a recurved distributor from him as well. I have put at least 50,000 trouble
free miles on them.

I have no idea what kind of mileage I get all I can tell you Double Trouble (3.21 to 1 Final Drive) will run all day long at 70-75
without a hiccup.

To get around the vapor lock problem JimB installed a small Facet electric fuel pump on the AUX tank that comes on when I switch to
aux.

Helen and I made it up to the Eisenhower Tunnel (11,158 ft) albeit in the right lane.

Carb = $390
Dist = $190
Pump = $40
Total = $520

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 2:33 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: [GMCnet] EFI vs Carb

Hello All,

I'm considering an EFI system over a carb re-build, I would like some "real world" experience, practical vs theory.

I can have my Rochester Quadrajet re-built or I can install an EFI system, why one over the other and if EFI which system to go
with?

I have read a bit about the Fitech Go Street and the Go EFI, is there a major difference between the two (if you chose one over the
other) and why,
or is there a brand which works better with our GMC's?

As always thank you for your feedback,
Regards,
Mike

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Jim - how's to expand on this a bit:

"If you think for a second that by going to a EFI, you get around the vapor
lock problem, you do not understand fuel delivery."

thanks,

Johnny

--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
 
Thanks Jim and to the others that responded, I guess I'm just as confused by the decision to go with EFI over a properly tuned carb and which system
to go with (if I decide to go with fuel injection), as many others are.

My issue began while on a trip to northern Ontario a couple of months ago. 1975 26' Royale by Coachmen,I left and the coach was running fine,
temperature was around 75 degrees. A couple of hours into my drive I decided to stop for fuel, when I pulled into the service center the coach began
running rough, idle was off and for the first time the coach stalled. After fuelling up it started fine but was clearly not running smooth, once on
the highway it appeared to be running fine until I stopped again.

I let it cool down and after a few hours I fired it up and same issue. Next day same thing. Once I arrived home I noticed that the black soot left
from the tail pipe suggested it was running rich. Replaced plugs, gapped at 54, wires, cap and rotor along with new air filter and fuel filters and it
started and ran beautifully for a short run of ten minutes, then it started running rough again.

Replaced the coil and ignition module, installed a fresh set of plugs with a gap of 60, set the timing, fired right up and idled smooth for a few
minutes then started acting up again, almost as though when getting to temp caused the idle issue. At this stage decided to do a compression check,
everything was excellent except number 2 had ZERO compression, determined to be exhaust valve, seat jumped out.

Now I'm ready to have the heads and intake reinstalled after a valve job with everything new and carb cleaned out, at this stage trying to decide
which way to go regarding EFI. I will do some research on the EBL system and will get in touch with Dick Paterson.

I would like to drive the coach out to California in the spring and obviously hoping for a reliable set up. Any additional opinions are welcome
especially those which are based on experience with a particular system.

All the best,
Mike
 
Mike,

Your valve seat failure was undoubtedly the source of your problems.
Without knowing the history of the engine, I won't speculate on the cause
of that, 'tho' obviously the head had been rebuilt, and probably by someone
who didn't realize that the seats in the head were hardened from the
factory, so shouldn't have needed seats.

An alternate possibility for the symptoms you described is that the exhaust
crossover in the intake manifold has not been blocked. Without that mod,
vapor lock is MUCH more common with today's gasoline formulations. When
you talk to Dick Paterson, talk to him about that: He sells blockoff
plates and gaskets modified to work with them.

Finally, 0.054" or 0.060" gaps are too wide for the 455, despite the 0.080"
specified in the factory manuals. I think Dick will tell you to use
0.038". Wider gaps stress the ignition module (and other ignition
components) too severely.

Ken H.

> Thanks Jim and to the others that responded, I guess I'm just as confused
> by the decision to go with EFI over a properly tuned carb and which system
> to go with (if I decide to go with fuel injection), as many others are.
>
> My issue began while on a trip to northern Ontario a couple of months ago.
> 1975 26' Royale by Coachmen,I left and the coach was running fine,
> temperature was around 75 degrees. A couple of hours into my drive I
> decided to stop for fuel, when I pulled into the service center the coach
> began
> running rough, idle was off and for the first time the coach stalled.
> After fuelling up it started fine but was clearly not running smooth, once
> on
> the highway it appeared to be running fine until I stopped again.
>
> I let it cool down and after a few hours I fired it up and same issue.
> Next day same thing. Once I arrived home I noticed that the black soot left
> from the tail pipe suggested it was running rich. Replaced plugs, gapped
> at 54, wires, cap and rotor along with new air filter and fuel filters and
> it
> started and ran beautifully for a short run of ten minutes, then it
> started running rough again.
>
> Replaced the coil and ignition module, installed a fresh set of plugs with
> a gap of 60, set the timing, fired right up and idled smooth for a few
> minutes then started acting up again, almost as though when getting to
> temp caused the idle issue. At this stage decided to do a compression check,
> everything was excellent except number 2 had ZERO compression, determined
> to be exhaust valve, seat jumped out.
>
> Now I'm ready to have the heads and intake reinstalled after a valve job
> with everything new and carb cleaned out, at this stage trying to decide
> which way to go regarding EFI. I will do some research on the EBL system
> and will get in touch with Dick Paterson.
>
> I would like to drive the coach out to California in the spring and
> obviously hoping for a reliable set up. Any additional opinions are welcome
> especially those which are based on experience with a particular system.
>
> All the best,
> Mike
>
 
Johnny,
Vapor lock phenomenon develops any where between the tank and the
carburetor / throttle body.
Should one not address that, you will run into this issue at one time or
another.
I'll address it later as I have several things that need to be addressed
now.

On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 7:42 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Your valve seat failure was undoubtedly the source of your problems.
> Without knowing the history of the engine, I won't speculate on the cause
> of that, 'tho' obviously the head had been rebuilt, and probably by someone
> who didn't realize that the seats in the head were hardened from the
> factory, so shouldn't have needed seats.
>
> An alternate possibility for the symptoms you described is that the exhaust
> crossover in the intake manifold has not been blocked. Without that mod,
> vapor lock is MUCH more common with today's gasoline formulations. When
> you talk to Dick Paterson, talk to him about that: He sells blockoff
> plates and gaskets modified to work with them.
>
> Finally, 0.054" or 0.060" gaps are too wide for the 455, despite the 0.080"
> specified in the factory manuals. I think Dick will tell you to use
> 0.038". Wider gaps stress the ignition module (and other ignition
> components) too severely.
>
> Ken H.
>
>

>
> > Thanks Jim and to the others that responded, I guess I'm just as confused
> > by the decision to go with EFI over a properly tuned carb and which
> system
> > to go with (if I decide to go with fuel injection), as many others are.
> >
> > My issue began while on a trip to northern Ontario a couple of months
> ago.
> > 1975 26' Royale by Coachmen,I left and the coach was running fine,
> > temperature was around 75 degrees. A couple of hours into my drive I
> > decided to stop for fuel, when I pulled into the service center the coach
> > began
> > running rough, idle was off and for the first time the coach stalled.
> > After fuelling up it started fine but was clearly not running smooth,
> once
> > on
> > the highway it appeared to be running fine until I stopped again.
> >
> > I let it cool down and after a few hours I fired it up and same issue.
> > Next day same thing. Once I arrived home I noticed that the black soot
> left
> > from the tail pipe suggested it was running rich. Replaced plugs, gapped
> > at 54, wires, cap and rotor along with new air filter and fuel filters
> and
> > it
> > started and ran beautifully for a short run of ten minutes, then it
> > started running rough again.
> >
> > Replaced the coil and ignition module, installed a fresh set of plugs
> with
> > a gap of 60, set the timing, fired right up and idled smooth for a few
> > minutes then started acting up again, almost as though when getting to
> > temp caused the idle issue. At this stage decided to do a compression
> check,
> > everything was excellent except number 2 had ZERO compression, determined
> > to be exhaust valve, seat jumped out.
> >
> > Now I'm ready to have the heads and intake reinstalled after a valve job
> > with everything new and carb cleaned out, at this stage trying to decide
> > which way to go regarding EFI. I will do some research on the EBL system
> > and will get in touch with Dick Paterson.
> >
> > I would like to drive the coach out to California in the spring and
> > obviously hoping for a reliable set up. Any additional opinions are
> welcome
> > especially those which are based on experience with a particular system.
> >
> > All the best,
> > Mike
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Ken, apparently my motor had been rebuilt by the PO, unfortunately I do not have any documentation to support this. I was told by the fellow assisting
me with this issue that the engine as far as he could tell looks like it had undergone some level of rebuild not that long ago due to the condition
and cleanliness of the heads and intake once they were removed.

We also found the exhaust block-off plates on the intake manifold tray. I never experienced vapor lock issues although I never really put that many
miles on the coach this summer.

I will discuss with Dick Paterson the carb rebuild and distributor service before making a final call on the EFI decision.

Also noted on the spark plug gap, I did a bit of research on this and the suggestions varied from 40 to 80, I'll know better next time, I plan on a
fresh set of plugs before final start-up.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
The gap should be .040 as athig more puts too much load on the system. Once
a spec is entered, it is hard to delete.
If you do not believe us, then go .080 and suffer later.

> Ken, apparently my motor had been rebuilt by the PO, unfortunately I do
> not have any documentation to support this. I was told by the fellow
> assisting
> me with this issue that the engine as far as he could tell looks like it
> had undergone some level of rebuild not that long ago due to the condition
> and cleanliness of the heads and intake once they were removed.
>
> We also found the exhaust block-off plates on the intake manifold tray. I
> never experienced vapor lock issues although I never really put that many
> miles on the coach this summer.
>
> I will discuss with Dick Paterson the carb rebuild and distributor service
> before making a final call on the EFI decision.
>
> Also noted on the spark plug gap, I did a bit of research on this and the
> suggestions varied from 40 to 80, I'll know better next time, I plan on a
> fresh set of plugs before final start-up.
>
> Thanks again,
> Mike
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
You need to do some more research as many have easily installed without raising the hatch. It does require normally a remote air filter. I think
applied has some varients that should be complete kits.

No need for maf sensor, just need to get filtered air to the fi-tech.

Fuel delivery is the wild card as there are people happy with the fcc, and others have experienced issues.

Call those that have some miles on there setup. Lots of work, but i think the best way is to get in-tank pumps. I do not hear of problems with
people get in-tank pumps. Sure the pump can die, but all pumps can die.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
But i-tank pumps are harder to replace.

> You need to do some more research as many have easily installed without
> raising the hatch. It does require normally a remote air filter. I
> think
> applied has some varients that should be complete kits.
>
> No need for maf sensor, just need to get filtered air to the fi-tech.
>
> Fuel delivery is the wild card as there are people happy with the fcc,
> and others have experienced issues.
>
> Call those that have some miles on there setup. Lots of work, but i
> think the best way is to get in-tank pumps. I do not hear of problems with
> people get in-tank pumps. Sure the pump can die, but all pumps can die.
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*
 
True, but how often are you planning to replace them?

Mine have been in for 8 years now and are still working fine.

If one were to fail then I still have the other — or if I didn’t have the time to replace an in-tank one I could always hook up an outside the tank one temporarily. The in-tank pumps do allow fuel to be pulled through it by an external pump.

The in-tank pump in my 1973 Jeep Grand Cherokee still worked after 42 years when I traded it in. How many of you have ever had to replace an electric in-tank pump in their automobile?

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> But i-tank pumps are harder to replace.
>

>
>> You need to do some more research as many have easily installed without
>> raising the hatch. It does require normally a remote air filter. I
>> think
>> applied has some varients that should be complete kits.
>>
>> No need for maf sensor, just need to get filtered air to the fi-tech.
>>
>> Fuel delivery is the wild card as there are people happy with the fcc,
>> and others have experienced issues.
>>
>> Call those that have some miles on there setup. Lots of work, but i
>> think the best way is to get in-tank pumps. I do not hear of problems with
>> people get in-tank pumps. Sure the pump can die, but all pumps can die.
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *John Phillips*
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Sorry, that was a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee but that’s still 22 years and 300,000 miles of usage on the original in-tank fuel pump.

The eight year old ones in my GMC now have about 130,000 miles on them.

Emery Stora

>
> True, but how often are you planning to replace them?
>
> Mine have been in for 8 years now and are still working fine.
>
> If one were to fail then I still have the other — or if I didn’t have the time to replace an in-tank one I could always hook up an outside the tank one temporarily. The in-tank pumps do allow fuel to be pulled through it by an external pump.
>
> The in-tank pump in my 1973 Jeep Grand Cherokee still worked after 42 years when I traded it in. How many of you have ever had to replace an electric in-tank pump in their automobile?
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
>

>>
>> But i-tank pumps are harder to replace.
>>

>>>
>>> You need to do some more research as many have easily installed without
>>> raising the hatch. It does require normally a remote air filter. I
>>> think
>>> applied has some varients that should be complete kits.
>>>
>>> No need for maf sensor, just need to get filtered air to the fi-tech.
>>>
>>> Fuel delivery is the wild card as there are people happy with the fcc,
>>> and others have experienced issues.
>>>
>>> Call those that have some miles on there setup. Lots of work, but i
>>> think the best way is to get in-tank pumps. I do not hear of problems with
>>> people get in-tank pumps. Sure the pump can die, but all pumps can die.
>>> --
>>> Jon Roche
>>> 75 palm beach
>>> St. Cloud, MN
>>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *John Phillips*
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