Dura Kool, and Freeze 12

[Bob Dunahugh]

There are also some other brands. This comes up now, and then. So, it might be of interest to many. What are the latest list of brands, and where to get them at? As to price. Go by the oz per can. Not just the can price. You can be scammed with the can price.
Bob Dunahugh
78 Royale since 2003
4 Real COPO Yenkos

 

[boybach]

pick up a side can-tapper, a set of manifold gauges and just use regular ol propane. Thats what most of that stuff is anyway.

Larry
--
Larry - Victoria BC -

1977 Palm Beach 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. New Atwood fridge, water heater & furnace. New SS exhaust system,
6000w Onan, Iota Converter, R134A A/C, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses

 

[LQQKatJon]

Bob-

information will be outdated after I would type it in.

bought a case of frostycool off amazon or ebay last time... prior to that, I had ordered and actual "duracool" was shipped to me from canada years
ago.

r-12a is fairly inexpensive, for what it is, I really don't pay any attention to the cost of the can. maybe a buck or 2 variance over the past few
years from when I look from different suppliers. shipping cost can be a big game changer too when ordering things via the web.

last comment- is that I am running frostycool lately, and what I installed in my new A/C system that just so happened to be changed a few times so
went through a case over the past year. I still have enough left to recharge maybe 2-5 coaches???? but I have a friend I trust in the gmc world
who is also a HVAC(home) repairman. He swears that his experience in charging a couple GMC motorhomes is the frostycool does not work as well as the
true "Duracool" brand r-12a. I am going to get ahold of some cans here and swap to "true duracool" soon. Can't hurt. My A/C seems to start out
strong, but eventually it almost seems like it is not blowing as cold as when I first fired it up. I don't think it is freezing up(no signs of ice
or frost when I look into the evaporator). so hard to deal with when traveling, it is super hot some days, and not so hot other times. trying
to see how something performs while on the freeway at 95 degrees compared to when you get home in the shade that evening and it drops to 80 outside.

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

 

[Matt Colie]

> pick up a side can-tapper, a set of manifold gauges and just use regular ol propane. Thats what most of that stuff is anyway.
>
> Larry

Larry,

I am not picking on you, you just happened to step into my area where I have a lot of experience, some at other people's expense.

Regular "ol" propane is not all that good as a refrigerant. Believe me when I tell you it was tried on the way to inventing dichlorodifloromethane
(R-12 as we all know and used to love). Also, "Grilling Grade" propane has an odorant add that is not of any value. If you have a system that is a
chronic leaker, regular ol propane may be a good choice as a diagnostic tool because it is cheap and you can find the leaks with a gas leak detector.
I have done this a few times and usually to great success.

Admittedly is was a few years back, but I have had a history of can side tappers.
For starters, leaks were common because the sides of the cans are not robust enough the maintain the seal when the pressure gets low and you will have
a problem if you try to use the system to suck on the can in the early part of the charging exercise.
I have never successfully stored a can-side opened can, but I have a half a can (by weight) of HC-12 on my shelf that I found yesterday when I went
looking for my tapper. It has been there since last fall.
Another can tapper (when I need one) will be less than 10$ and the one on the can of Dura-Kool is as old a R-134 (over 20years).

Dura-Kool is not just propane. That propane is very pure so it does not cause problems. The Iso-Butane that is the other part is also not normal
butane (as in lighter fuel), it is an isomer of that butane. This means it has the same chemical make-up, but it is assembled differently. I assure
you that if this was not worth doing to make it a good shot at R-12, they would never do it.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Matt Colie]

> pick up a side can-tapper, a set of manifold gauges and just use regular ol propane. Thats what most of that stuff is anyway.
>
> Larry

Larry,

I am not picking on you, you just happened to step into my area where I have a lot of experience, some at other people's expense.

Regular "ol" propane is not all that good as a refrigerant. Also, "Grilling Grade" propane has an odorant add that is not of any value. If you have
a system that is a chronic leaker, regular ol propane may be a good choice as a diagnostic tool because it is cheap and you can find the leaks with a
gas leak detector. I have done this a few times and usually to great success.

Admittedly is was a few years back, but I have had a history of can side tappers.
For starters, leaks were common because the sides of the cans are not robust enough the maintain the seal when the pressure gets low and you will have
a problem if you try to use the system to suck on the can in the early part of the charging exercise.
I have never successfully stored a can-side opened can, but I have a half a can (by weight) of HC-12 on my shelf that I found yesterday when I went
looking for my tapper. It has been there since last fall.
Another can tapper (when I need one) will be less than 10$ and the one on the can of Dura-Kool is as old a R-134 (over 20years).

Dura-Kool is not just propane. That propane is very pure so it does not cause problems. The Iso-Butane that is the other part is also not normal
butane (as in lighter fuel), it is an isomer of that butane. This means it has the same chemical make-up, but it is assembled differently. I assure
you that if this was not worth doing to make it a good shot at R-12, they would never do it.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Bob Dunahugh]

Yes. Propane is one of the components. And I don't know the %. The other components are in there for a reason. I personally wouldn't risk a $300 compressor to save a few bucks. As an example. Transmission fluid can be used in an engine. But doesn't have all the proper additives for long engine life. Just a thought. Bob Dunahugh

________________________________
From: Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Friday, July 2, 2021 10:56 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Dura Kool, and Freeze 12

There are also some other brands. This comes up now, and then. So, it might be of interest to many. What are the latest list of brands, and where to get them at? As to price. Go by the oz per can. Not just the can price. You can be scammed with the can price.
Bob Dunahugh
78 Royale since 2003
4 Real COPO Yenkos

 

[larry.schaffer]

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------Fro=
m: Matt Colie Date: 7/2/21 10:27 AM (GMT-08:00) T=
o: gmclist Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Dura Kool, and Freeze 12 b=

f manifold gauges and just use regular ol propane. Thats what most of that =
stuff is anyway.> > LarryLarry, I am not picking on you, you just happened =
to step into my area where I have a lot of experience, some at other people=
's expense.Regular "ol" propane is not all that good as a refrigerant.=
=C2=A0 Believe me when I tell you it was tried on the way to inventing dich=
lorodifloromethane(R-12 as we all know and used to love).=C2=A0 Also, "Gril=
ling Grade" propane has an odorant add that is not of any value.=C2=A0 If y=
ou have a system that is achronic leaker, regular ol propane may be a good =
choice as a diagnostic tool because it is cheap and you can find the leaks =
with a gas leak detector. I have done this a few times and usually to great=
success. Admittedly is was a few years back, but I have had a history of c=
an side tappers.=C2=A0 For starters, leaks were common because the sides of=
the cans are not robust enough the maintain the seal when the pressure get=
s low and you will havea problem if you try to use the system to suck on th=
e can in the early part of the charging exercise.=C2=A0 I have never succes=
sfully stored a can-side opened can, but I have a half a can (by weight) of=
HC-12 on my shelf that I found yesterday when I wentlooking for my tapper.=
=C2=A0 It has been there since last fall. Another can tapper (when I need o=
ne) will be less than 10$ and the one on the can of Dura-Kool is as old a R=
-134 (over 20years). Dura-Kool is not just propane.=C2=A0 That propane is v=
ery pure so it does not cause problems.=C2=A0 The Iso-Butane that is the ot=
her part is also not normalbutane (as in lighter fuel), it is an isomer of =
that butane.=C2=A0 This means it has the same chemical make-up, but it is a=
ssembled differently.=C2=A0 I assureyou that if this was not worth doing to=
make it a good shot at R-12, they would never do it.=C2=A0 Matt=C2=A0 -- M=
att & Mary Colie - Chaumi=C3=A8re -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, G=
MCES Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum B=
rakes with Applied Control ArmsSE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroi=
t_______________________________________________GMCnet mailing listUnsubscr=
ibe or Change List Options:

 

[john r. lebetski]

I still use R12. The little I know about HC12 products is that they are a blend. If you have a “Leaker” and use HC12 the lighter components are
lost first, so over time, the blend % changes. This may reduce performance over time if you keep topping off
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II