Drinking the Koolaide... š
- Thread starter Tybalt39
- Start date
Onan...
Ordered the Bovee electronic ignition kit. It was on my list of future upgrades anyway....
Once I get into the Onan, I may as well do all the obvious things. As was pointed out to me elsewhere, since it starts and runs (badly now) the board is probably fine.
UPDATE:
Ignition installed. Onan now running as it was when I acquired the coach; not the smoothest, but acceptable. It runs smooth for about 20 seconds after starting, then gets a bit rougher. But at least it now gets no worse. No change under load (both AC units running).
New issue.... It starts from the wall switch, but won't shut off there. I have to open the hatch, pull the Onan out, then hit the switch on the side to shut it down. I'll be checking the wiring at the switch shortly. Also the harness from the coach to the Onan, since I hadn't previously pulled the generator out; perhaps something was dislodged when the cable flexed.
Ordered the Bovee electronic ignition kit. It was on my list of future upgrades anyway....
Once I get into the Onan, I may as well do all the obvious things. As was pointed out to me elsewhere, since it starts and runs (badly now) the board is probably fine.
UPDATE:
Ignition installed. Onan now running as it was when I acquired the coach; not the smoothest, but acceptable. It runs smooth for about 20 seconds after starting, then gets a bit rougher. But at least it now gets no worse. No change under load (both AC units running).
New issue.... It starts from the wall switch, but won't shut off there. I have to open the hatch, pull the Onan out, then hit the switch on the side to shut it down. I'll be checking the wiring at the switch shortly. Also the harness from the coach to the Onan, since I hadn't previously pulled the generator out; perhaps something was dislodged when the cable flexed.
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Hive-mind....
I'm told by a local shop (recommended by K. Deitz) that I need a transmission rebuild. I'm going to send them links to the available documentation on GMCMI, plus any YouTube videos on the "Manny tranny". Any other words of wisdom or options?
I'm told by a local shop (recommended by K. Deitz) that I need a transmission rebuild. I'm going to send them links to the available documentation on GMCMI, plus any YouTube videos on the "Manny tranny". Any other words of wisdom or options?
After thinking about it, I came to the conclusion that a rebuild isn't needed at this time; there are other issues that need resolving first. It runs and shifts just fine, and I would get some warning if the transmission starts to have issues. A rebuild is probably in my future, but there are higher priorities at the moment.
After talking with Kelvin this morning, he agreed.
So, just waiting for my Onan ignition kit to arrive. Then, more steering parts in August (plus alignment). Extend my exhaust to exit behind the coach instead of under the rear bed.
Anyone have a quick link to adjusting the gearshift indicator (PRNDL)? I found it once but can't seem to locate it now. I believe the instructions also indicated this adjustment will re-engage the parking pawl (assuming it isn't broken, just out of alignment) if the selector isn't fully in "Park". My "Park" doesn't lock the transmission. When still rolling in "Park", I can hear a rhythmic "clicking" noise which would seem to indicate the pawl is just missing engaging.
After talking with Kelvin this morning, he agreed.
So, just waiting for my Onan ignition kit to arrive. Then, more steering parts in August (plus alignment). Extend my exhaust to exit behind the coach instead of under the rear bed.
Anyone have a quick link to adjusting the gearshift indicator (PRNDL)? I found it once but can't seem to locate it now. I believe the instructions also indicated this adjustment will re-engage the parking pawl (assuming it isn't broken, just out of alignment) if the selector isn't fully in "Park". My "Park" doesn't lock the transmission. When still rolling in "Park", I can hear a rhythmic "clicking" noise which would seem to indicate the pawl is just missing engaging.
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I just went through the adjustment myself. The trans and shifter are supposed to be lined up in their neutral positions.
Disconnect linkage from shift lever at trans. Put trans shift lever and steering column shifter both in neutral. Adjust the linkage rod down by the trans until the hole lines up with the post, then reconnect it to the trans shift lever.
If those two are lined up and the indicator is still off, it's just a piece of wire going to the part that moves the needle and there's a slot to adjust it on the column
That's a good point. On column, you need to make sure you're finding the true neutral position, regardless of what the indicator says. You kinda have to go by feel, with what you know about how the shifter is supposed to work when isolating reverse coming from the drive direction, if that makes sense.
Indeed. While there is play in the indicator and shifter, I can find the "detents" for each "gear". The system just needs to be "tightened-up" a bit to remove slop, and hopefully get my "Park" locking function back.
I was in the same boat when I got my new one. I got park back after the adjustment, and a much better feeling in each gear detent. The bad news is, I also found out my parking pawl was not in good shape. It just kinda holds, and will pop a few times before it finds a "good" spot if it's on any sort of incline. Hopefully yours is in better shape.
On mine the shifter "bell crank" was worn at it's pivot point. I found a couple of washer that fit the shaft perfectly and welded them to the bell crank. That took much of play out of the shifter.
Off to collect the coach. I'm told the parking lock is working better, but not reliable. Probably being out of adjustment for some years but still in partial contact has worn the mechanicals down some....
UPDATE:
Parking pawl now makes an even louder clicking but won't engage. So, the adjustment "worked", but the pawl is too damaged to operate.
UPDATE:
Parking pawl now makes an even louder clicking but won't engage. So, the adjustment "worked", but the pawl is too damaged to operate.
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Interior window trim (entire coach): Ordered! (8/7: Arrived)
Toll window trim panel (both sides): Ordered! (8/7: Arrived)
Sliding window channel (entire coach): Ordered! (8/7: Arrived)
Onan Electronic Ignition Kit: Arrived! (8/5: installed!)
Jack Knife Sofa/Bed (x2): Delivered! (Thanks Paul!) (Temporarily "installed"; looks good!)
Looks like I've got some projects this month....
Toll window trim panel (both sides): Ordered! (8/7: Arrived)
Sliding window channel (entire coach): Ordered! (8/7: Arrived)
Onan Electronic Ignition Kit: Arrived! (8/5: installed!)
Jack Knife Sofa/Bed (x2): Delivered! (Thanks Paul!) (Temporarily "installed"; looks good!)
Looks like I've got some projects this month....
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Thank you!
I've decided to keep going with the transmission as-is; only took it in to locate any leaks. There are no issues at this time other than wear (and parking pawl). When it eventually starts to be an issue I should get some notice; poor shifting, slipping, etc. I have other more pressing issues to deal with for now. If those can't be resolved I will have to re-evaluate.
Luther,
Adjusting the linkage is not difficult when the engine is not hot. It can be reached and adjusted from inside.
Mine became an issue when a suspension failure dropped the coach into a 4' deep culvert along the side of I-95 in South Carolina. That moved the power plant about an inch and an half forward of design location. This meant that at away stop (my parking brake works as well as most) someone had to chock a wheel.
Matt_C
Adjusting the linkage is not difficult when the engine is not hot. It can be reached and adjusted from inside.
Mine became an issue when a suspension failure dropped the coach into a 4' deep culvert along the side of I-95 in South Carolina. That moved the power plant about an inch and an half forward of design location. This meant that at away stop (my parking brake works as well as most) someone had to chock a wheel.
Matt_C
Indeed. The shop did adjust the linkage; the indicator is now properly centered. The pawl is most likely damaged; it clicks louder now, but still won't engage.
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Hive Mind question....
I appear to have a leaky coolant overflow bottle. I'm assuming it has already been replaced as it has a single connection at the bottom only (the pictures I find of an OEM tank have two hoses at the top cap). My reading seems to indicate only one hose is connected to the system; the other is simply an overflow drain to the outside. Is this correct? If so, is there any reason to revert to the original tank with two hoses at the top, or can I simply find another tank/bottle with a single hose connection if the current bottle can't be patched? I'm assuming the original system had a tube from the cap to near the bottom of the tank to allow for coolant recovery when things cooled-down?
I appear to have a leaky coolant overflow bottle. I'm assuming it has already been replaced as it has a single connection at the bottom only (the pictures I find of an OEM tank have two hoses at the top cap). My reading seems to indicate only one hose is connected to the system; the other is simply an overflow drain to the outside. Is this correct? If so, is there any reason to revert to the original tank with two hoses at the top, or can I simply find another tank/bottle with a single hose connection if the current bottle can't be patched? I'm assuming the original system had a tube from the cap to near the bottom of the tank to allow for coolant recovery when things cooled-down?
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