Drinking the Koolaide... šŸ˜Š

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The eco flow just seems very expensive compared to a 'roll your own system. I guess I see the point if you want to use it in multiple applications... I always hardwire and semi permanently install my equipment so there is no hassle of moving or setting up.

This is my 4th camping rig I've installed solar on, and so far the most complex.
 
kbeefy said:
The eco flow just seems very expensive compared to a 'roll your own system. I guess I see the point if you want to use it in multiple applications... I always hardwire and semi permanently install my equipment so there is no hassle of moving or setting up.

This is my 4th camping rig I've installed solar on, and so far the most complex.
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Agreed. I'll get by for a while using my Deltas and solar blankets. I'll wire the DC and AC circuits to a panel, then connect my power banks to them for a while. I'll set the panels outside, or strap them to the roof while stationary. I won't need much power until I get ready for the A/C and kitchen appliances. The Deltas can cope with any individual appliance for short durations.
 
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A question on priorities...

If the engine is "stock", I'm assuming I will want to install the HEI distributor. Other than EFI, are there any other modifications to the engine that make sense to incorporate for ease of operation (double-roller timeing chain, etc.)? The goal is to make the vehicle start, run, and operate like a modern drive system. I may even install push-button/remote starting at some point; those modifications that don't require drive-train removal to complete will be secondary.

The vehicle goes in for inspection and basic repairs April 10th. The initial goal is to make certain it is drive-able and reliable. If any major engine repairs are needed, I would also incorporate the upgrades while the engine is out.
 
IF Oregon has a "Colletor or Antique" plate available for registration, you might consider that plate. Depending on the restrictions, like can't drive it in January, or only to collector events, often it is a one time registration fee forever, and may not require inspections.

Also, the 73' came stock with a points type distributor. It might be cheaper and just as reliable to get the Pertronix 1181LS electronic upgrade. It is a simple swap with no adjusting (accept setting the timing). You can use your stock coil, (do not buy the "Flame Thrower" coil that goes with it) and you won't have to hammer out a distributor bump on the air cleaner. Also, do not buy the Petronix 1181. It has a ring of magnets that mount under the rotor. Those magnets are known for coming loose and wiping out the sensor. Ask me how I know. JWID
 
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LarryW said:
IF Oregon has a "Colletor or Antique" plate available for registration, you might consider that plate. Depending on the restrictions, like can't drive it in January, or only to collector events, often it is a one time registration fee forever, and may not require inspections.

Also, the 73' came stock with a points type distributor. It might be cheaper and just as reliable to get the Pertronix 1181LS electronic upgrade. It is a simple swap with no adjusting (accept setting the timing). You can use your stock coil, (do not buy the "Flame Thrower" coil that goes with it) and you won't have to hammer out a distributor bump on the air cleaner. Also, do not buy the Petronix 1181. It has a ring of magnets that mount under the rotor. Those magnets are known for coming loose and wiping out the sensor. Ask me how I know. JWID
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Are spare parts readily available if I have any issues on the road? One of the reasons I like the idea of using "stock" GM parts is the availability of spares should the need arise. Basically, the 455 engine if it had been available in the later 80's/90's. :)

My goal is to bring the vehicle up to "modern" standards. This vehicle had a "next century" look to it in the 70's. I want to fulfill that image.

Also, the inspection is just to provide a "baseline" for me to start the repairs. What needs to be done in what order to get it on the road reliably.
 
Yup, just carry the old points and condenser as a back-up. Also then you'd need a feeler gauge to set the points and a timing light to reset the timing. If you don't have a timing light, put the points in and learn how to static time. That would get you to a place that has a timing light.
 
EFI will make it start and run like a modern vehicle. But be aware if you get a FiTech or Holley EFI kit, if something goes wrong with it, you need to pull it and send it back to the manufacturer for repair/ replacement. So unless you carry a spare kit, you maybe sitting at the side of the road for a week or so.

If you want to go EFI, get a kit that uses GM parts and sensors like a Howell or Affordable EFI. Affordable looks like they use a Rochester throttle body (TB). Howell may still be using a Holley TB which means it likely has smaller (63pph) injectors rather than the 80pph injectors our 455s need.
 
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RF_Burns said:
EFI will make it start and run like a modern vehicle. But be aware if you get a FiTech or Holley EFI kit, if something goes wrong with it, you need to pull it and send it back to the manufacturer for repair/ replacement. So unless you carry a spare kit, you maybe sitting at the side of the road for a week or so.

If you want to go EFI, get a kit that uses GM parts and sensors like a Howell or Affordable EFI. Affordable looks like they use a Rochester throttle body (TB). Howell may still be using a Holley TB which means it likely has smaller (63pph) injectors rather than the 80pph injectors our 455s need.
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Indeed; "standard" GM parts is my goal. I've seen write-ups for how to salvage parts and install a "factory" GM EFI system.
 
Tybalt39 said:
Indeed; "standard" GM parts is my goal. I've seen write-ups for how to salvage parts and install a "factory" GM EFI system.
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Here is the link on how to do a "Men's Mall" EFI system. It's great reading for anyone interested in EFI.

EFI - Swartzendruber GM Throttle body install presentation

This is a PDF of a presentation and notes by Swartzendruber that describes the installation of a GM Throttle Body EFI system in a GMC Motorhome.
www.gmcmotorhome.org www.gmcmotorhome.org

I would get order an EBL system already installed into the engine computer from Dynamic EFI. It is far more self learning and programmable than the new systems and there are lots of GMC users who have posted their program BINs for you to download into it so you don't need to do any programming of it.
 
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LarryW said:
IF Oregon has a "Colletor or Antique" plate available for registration
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We have a "Special Interest" vehicle plate in OR. Must be 25+ years old, and primarily used for parades, car shows, and club events. GMC rallies would definitely count. There's a limit set to 11,000 lbs for this registration, however, so 23-footers are probably best.

We also have "Antique" plates. The vehicles must have been made before the half-way point between present-day and the year 1900. So it's a moving target. 1973 GMCs will be eligible in the year 2046.
 
Attempting to determine the age of these currently mounted Transforce HT tires. There are some new tires available, so I should probably order 7.

Screenshot_20230404-095633.webp
 
kbeefy said:
Check the other side of the tire. Or all the other tires to see if there is a more complete #.
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I'll check the others too. Perhaps they were mounted facing "in" instead of "out". None of the photos of that particular tire had the desired information (I covered the cardinal compass points; 4 images).
 
I just went and looked at one of my transformed. Like yours, one side had an incomplete dot stamp. The other side had the date code.

The last 4 digits are the date code. First 2 are week, last 2 are last 2 digits of the year.
This one is the 5th week of 2010.

20230404_110152.webp
 
Didn't notice if you fixed your charging issue in the previous posts but from your voltage figures I would say there's a good chance your isolator is hooped.
 
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boybach said:
Didn't notice if you fixed your charging issue in the previous posts but from your voltage figures I would say there's a good chance your isolator is hooped.
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Still waiting to get it in for service. I may pull both the alternator and isolator for testing while waiting. I should see a 0.7v drop between the center and either leg, correct (basic diode voltage-drop)? Any drawback to jumpering the center post to either main or house posts for testing, to see if I suddenly get output from the alternator?
 
Get your shine on at www.cruzingear.co
Applied GMC

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