Drawers

[richard waters]

> GMCers
>
> Made a discovery tonight. I have 2 drawers on the closet module that like to
> pop open while driving. Did a little studying and found that there is almost
> no
> wear on the nylon slide tabs on each side of the drawers. There is wear on
> the steel detent that keeps the drawer closed. I folded some cardboard
> ( switch from NAPA box top ) and raised the center rail a little. The drawer
> has a much better catch now. I dont know if this news or not but it
> worked for me.
> Arch

I have the same problem with 2 drawers on my coach too. I was going to
investigate the situation one of these day, but you beat me. Thanks for doing
the detective work for me.
Richard Waters

 

[emerystora]

> > GMCers
>>
>> Made a discovery tonight. I have 2 drawers on the closet module that like to
>> pop open while driving. Did a little studying and found that there is almost
>> no
>> wear on the nylon slide tabs on each side of the drawers. There is wear on
>> the steel detent that keeps the drawer closed. I folded some cardboard
>> ( switch from NAPA box top ) and raised the center rail a little. The drawer
>> has a much better catch now. I dont know if this news or not but it
>> worked for me.
>> Arch
>
>I have the same problem with 2 drawers on my coach too. I was going to
>investigate the situation one of these day, but you beat me. Thanks for doing
>the detective work for me.
>Richard Waters

The tab that catches the drawer slide can be bent up slightly so as
to catch better. On one drawer I had to put in a small screw
adjusted in height to serve as a catch. You want it adjusted so that
the drawer has to be lifted just slightly to open them.

New identical drawer slides can still be purchased at Home Depot.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

 

[emerystora]

>Arch, here's another 'drawer' assignment for you. Those same two drawers you
>fixed have the bad habit of coming loose at the center metal slide when
>opened with very much in them. The front then falls down of course. If you
>can come up with a fix for that, I'll give you an "A" for the course.
>Justin

Arch might have a solution too, but I fixed this problem many years ago.

Our drawer had crashed to the floor several times before I figured
out how to fix it. The problem is that when the drawer is pulled out
the weight of the unsupported front part causes the rear to lift up
and pull out of the ball bearings holding it in the slide. My fix
was to fasten boards above each side of the drawer to the wood
supports above it so that there was about 1/8" clearance between the
bottom of the added boards and the top sides of the drawer. When the
back of the drawer starts to tilt up it touches the board and no
longer pulls up out of the track.

You want to leave enough clearance so that the drawer can be lifted
up slightly so that it can be pulled up past the catch tab when you
open the drawer. If I recall, it took about two 3/4" boards to fill
the space (total of about 1-1/2" thick).

The lowest drawer never had this problem because it didn't have the
large gap above it that the upper drawer had.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM

 

[al chernoff]

My wife has a better solution, and easier. She just puts so much
stuff in the drawer that I cant get it open so it never moves....
al

>>Arch, here's another 'drawer' assignment for you. Those same two drawers you
>>fixed have the bad habit of coming loose at the center metal slide when
>>opened with very much in them. The front then falls down of course. If you
>>can come up with a fix for that, I'll give you an "A" for the course.
>>Justin
>
>
>Arch might have a solution too, but I fixed this problem many years ago.
>
>Our drawer had crashed to the floor several times before I figured
>out how to fix it. The problem is that when the drawer is pulled
>out the weight of the unsupported front part causes the rear to lift
>up and pull out of the ball bearings holding it in the slide. My
>fix was to fasten boards above each side of the drawer to the wood
>supports above it so that there was about 1/8" clearance between the
>bottom of the added boards and the top sides of the drawer. When
>the back of the drawer starts to tilt up it touches the board and no
>longer pulls up out of the track.
>
>You want to leave enough clearance so that the drawer can be lifted
>up slightly so that it can be pulled up past the catch tab when you
>open the drawer. If I recall, it took about two 3/4" boards to fill
>the space (total of about 1-1/2" thick).
>
>The lowest drawer never had this problem because it didn't have the
>large gap above it that the upper drawer had.
>
>Emery Stora
>77 Kingsley
>Santa Fe, NM

 

[marlene meineken]

She probably has to fill the drawers full because you have all the other
nooks and crannys filled up with EXTRA PARTS AND TOOLS.
Marlene
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Drawers

> My wife has a better solution, and easier. She just puts so much
> stuff in the drawer that I cant get it open so it never moves....
> al
>
> >>Arch, here's another 'drawer' assignment for you. Those same two
drawers you
> >>fixed have the bad habit of coming loose at the center metal slide when
> >>opened with very much in them. The front then falls down of course. If
you
> >>can come up with a fix for that, I'll give you an "A" for the course.
> >>Justin
> >
> >
> >Arch might have a solution too, but I fixed this problem many years ago.
> >
> >Our drawer had crashed to the floor several times before I figured
> >out how to fix it. The problem is that when the drawer is pulled
> >out the weight of the unsupported front part causes the rear to lift
> >up and pull out of the ball bearings holding it in the slide. My
> >fix was to fasten boards above each side of the drawer to the wood
> >supports above it so that there was about 1/8" clearance between the
> >bottom of the added boards and the top sides of the drawer. When
> >the back of the drawer starts to tilt up it touches the board and no
> >longer pulls up out of the track.
> >
> >You want to leave enough clearance so that the drawer can be lifted
> >up slightly so that it can be pulled up past the catch tab when you
> >open the drawer. If I recall, it took about two 3/4" boards to fill
> >the space (total of about 1-1/2" thick).
> >
> >The lowest drawer never had this problem because it didn't have the
> >large gap above it that the upper drawer had.
> >
> >Emery Stora
> >77 Kingsley
> >Santa Fe, NM
>
>

 

[al chernoff]

You are absolutely right, but it's better than towing another GMC to
keep my spare parts in.
al

>She probably has to fill the drawers full because you have all the other
>nooks and crannys filled up with EXTRA PARTS AND TOOLS.
>Marlene
>----- Original Message -----
>From:
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 9:17 AM
>Subject: Re: GMC: Drawers
>
>
>> My wife has a better solution, and easier. She just puts so much
>> stuff in the drawer that I cant get it open so it never moves....
>> al
>>
>> >>Arch, here's another 'drawer' assignment for you. Those same two
>drawers you
>> >>fixed have the bad habit of coming loose at the center metal slide when
>> >>opened with very much in them. The front then falls down of course. If
>you
>> >>can come up with a fix for that, I'll give you an "A" for the course.
>> >>Justin
> > >