Door Latch repair

M

MikeB

Active member
Dec 24, 2018
288
29
28
Lower Alabama
I finally got my door curved enough to shut with secondary latching. Now it seems my lower latch jaw (LLJ) will lock initially but not secondary. The
upper works fine. I took it apart and the cam that locks it seem to be working and the LLJ will lock as long as I put a little down pressure on the
horizontal bar. Seems either a spring is missing or is weak somewhere or an adjustment is needed.

Is there a presentation or write up on adjustments for these mechanisms?

Also the lithium grease on it is old. What are y’all using to clean and lube these things?

Thanks
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
M.

Back in Nov. '18, I posted this in response to someone's similar situation:

Some years ago Bill Bramlett modified some latch pins by replacing the original
pin+rubber+visible surround with a solid steel pin. When I
finally got around to installing the one he gave me, it made a world of
difference difference in the door's closing. IIRC, JimK has taken over and
has them
made for sale.
Last year, I removed, disassembled, cleaned and re-lubricated the latch. I can
now latch the door firmly with one finger.
While you're fooling with the latch, adjust the barrel nut in the interior
lock button's shaft to that location that prevents locking the door from
the outside without the key --

There were several other postings associated with that confirming the value
of the solid striker -- and comments by JimK about the difficulty of
getting cores to modify.

As a follow up to that, Kim asked me to submit a writeup for the GMCMI
magazine, which I did -- you can probably find that, with photo, at
www.gmcmi.com

Ken H.

On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 9:30 AM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> I finally got my door curved enough to shut with secondary latching. Now
> it seems my lower latch jaw (LLJ) will lock initially but not secondary. The
> upper works fine. I took it apart and the cam that locks it seem to be
> working and the LLJ will lock as long as I put a little down pressure on the
> horizontal bar. Seems either a spring is missing or is weak somewhere or
> an adjustment is needed.
>
> Is there a presentation or write up on adjustments for these mechanisms?
>
> Also the lithium grease on it is old. What are y’all using to clean and
> lube these things?
>
> Thanks
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Here's the Latch Tutorial location:
The Winter 2020 issue of *GMC Vintage RVing page 13*Ken H.

> M.
>
> Back in Nov. '18, I posted this in response to someone's similar situation:
>
> Some years ago Bill Bramlett modified some latch pins by replacing the original
> pin+rubber+visible surround with a solid steel pin. When I
> finally got around to installing the one he gave me, it made a world of
> difference difference in the door's closing. IIRC, JimK has taken over
> and has them
> made for sale.
> Last year, I removed, disassembled, cleaned and re-lubricated the latch.
> I can now latch the door firmly with one finger.
> While you're fooling with the latch, adjust the barrel nut in the interior
> lock button's shaft to that location that prevents locking the door from
> the outside without the key --
>
> There were several other postings associated with that confirming the
> value of the solid striker -- and comments by JimK about the difficulty of
> getting cores to modify.
>
> As a follow up to that, Kim asked me to submit a writeup for the GMCMI
> magazine, which I did -- you can probably find that, with photo, at
> www.gmcmi.com
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 9:30 AM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>
>> I finally got my door curved enough to shut with secondary latching. Now
>> it seems my lower latch jaw (LLJ) will lock initially but not secondary. The
>> upper works fine. I took it apart and the cam that locks it seem to be
>> working and the LLJ will lock as long as I put a little down pressure on the
>> horizontal bar. Seems either a spring is missing or is weak somewhere or
>> an adjustment is needed.
>>
>> Is there a presentation or write up on adjustments for these mechanisms?
>>
>> Also the lithium grease on it is old. What are y’all using to clean and
>> lube these things?
>>
>> Thanks
>> --
>> M Beam
>> 75’ Avion
>> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
>> Zuki Sidekick,
>> Dozier Al
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
 
Ken,
It just so happens I have that addition in a pile off mags next to my chair. LOL. I remember reading it just couldn’t remember where. I’ll give
it another read.

Thanks
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
Ken
I’ve cleaned and adjusted what I can on the latch mechanism. It’s back to closing with secondary latch. Still takes more force than I think is
appropriate so I ordered and received the the solid striker from Jim K. So you mentioned not removing all for screws because the nut plate will fall
into wall. So do you remove 3 and loosen one in order to swing old assembly away enough to start one for the new assembly?

Thanks
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
The two inboard screws have individual non-captive nuts behind a plastic
cover. I can't tell you how to manage the cover since I haven't had one
for 21+ years, but you'll have to get it out of the way to remove and
replace those.

The two outboard screws are into a non-captive threaded plate, so you don't
want to remove both of those at the same time. Loosen both screws, remove
one, swing the plate aside, reinsert the removed screw into only the
threaded plate, then remove the other screw. I reinsert the removed one to
be sure the threaded plate doesn't shift into an inaccessible position.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 12:38 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> Ken
> I’ve cleaned and adjusted what I can on the latch mechanism. It’s back to
> closing with secondary latch. Still takes more force than I think is
> appropriate so I ordered and received the the solid striker from Jim K.
> So you mentioned not removing all for screws because the nut plate will fall
> into wall. So do you remove 3 and loosen one in order to swing old
> assembly away enough to start one for the new assembly?
>
> Thanks
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Here's the Latch Tutorial location:
> The Winter 2020 issue of *GMC Vintage RVing page 13*Ken H.

Do you mean Winter 2018 Issue of GMC Vintage RVing?
--
Ed Clerkin | 1974 GMC Canyon Lands 26’
 
Nope, issue 150, just as stated. I'm looking right at it: "GMC Motorhome
Entry Door Latch Tutorial".

Ken H.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 9:12 PM Ed Clerkin via Gmclist <

> > Here's the Latch Tutorial location:
> > The Winter 2020 issue of *GMC Vintage RVing page 13*Ken H.
>
> Do you mean Winter 2018 Issue of GMC Vintage RVing?
> --
> Ed Clerkin | 1974 GMC Canyon Lands 26’
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
So even though I got the door to start fully latching again with a forceful shut I bought the new striker plate with solid Pin hoping it would improve
it just enough for a reasonable shutting effort. Well now it’s back to only latching on first latch again. WTH. I did not see any way to adjust
the striker unless I wallow out the holes on the cab. Why didn’t the GM engineers give some kind of adjustment to these doors? In any case It’s
pretty aggravating. I have to go to my shop and get my ruler to make sure the new pin is in the same location on the plate as the original. If it is I
guess I’ll be grinding on the new one and wallowing out the coach holes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
Don’t grind the pin. The strike plate should be adjustable as Ken H has
stated. Are you sure that the caged nut plates are not present or is it
possible they are frozen and need to be freed up? Did you try slightly
loosening l of the strike plate bolts and tapping the plate with a hammer
and drift?

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 11:29 AM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> So even though I got the door to start fully latching again with a
> forceful shut I bought the new striker plate with solid Pin hoping it would
> improve
> it just enough for a reasonable shutting effort. Well now it’s back to
> only latching on first latch again. WTH. I did not see any way to adjust
> the striker unless I wallow out the holes on the cab. Why didn’t the GM
> engineers give some kind of adjustment to these doors? In any case It’s
> pretty aggravating. I have to go to my shop and get my ruler to make sure
> the new pin is in the same location on the plate as the original. If it is I
> guess I’ll be grinding on the new one and wallowing out the coach holes.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Don’t grind the pin. The strike plate should be adjustable as Ken H has
> stated. Are you sure that the caged nut plates are not present or is it
> possible they are frozen and need to be freed up? Did you try slightly
> loosening l of the strike plate bolts and tapping the plate with a hammer
> and drift?
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 11:29 AM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>
> > So even though I got the door to start fully latching again with a
> > forceful shut I bought the new striker plate with solid Pin hoping it would
> > improve
> > it just enough for a reasonable shutting effort. Well now it’s back to
> > only latching on first latch again. WTH. I did not see any way to adjust
> > the striker unless I wallow out the holes on the cab. Why didn’t the GM
> > engineers give some kind of adjustment to these doors? In any case It’s
> > pretty aggravating. I have to go to my shop and get my ruler to make sure
> > the new pin is in the same location on the plate as the original. If it is I
> > guess I’ll be grinding on the new one and wallowing out the coach holes.
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75’ Avion
> > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > Zuki Sidekick,
> > Dozier Al
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the pin. If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate and
they are different that would explain why old plate works and new plate doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard holes
and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction I will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the door may
hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard holes and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
M.,

I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for the
striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on is
not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine, which
was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM one
from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local fabrication
project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door facing
allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a Dremel
tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then the
other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate. As
I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement on
your new one.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the pin.
> If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate and
> they are different that would explain why old plate works and new plate
> doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard holes
> and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction I
> will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the door
> may
> hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard holes
> and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
>
 
> M.,
>
> I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for the
> striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on is
> not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine, which
> was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM one
> from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local fabrication
> project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door facing
> allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a Dremel
> tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then the
> other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
> inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
> ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate. As
> I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
> interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement on
> your new one.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>
> > Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the pin.
> > If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate and
> > they are different that would explain why old plate works and new plate
> > doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard holes
> > and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction I
> > will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the door
> > may
> > hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard holes
> > and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75’ Avion
> > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > Zuki Sidekick,
> > Dozier Al
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

Comparing old plate to new plate shows exact same width,length and thickness but the distance between outboard edge of plate to outboard inside edge
of pin there is a difference. The new pin is 1/8” closer to outer edge and the pin is about 1/8” longer than original pin. So that blows my theory
that having the pin closer to door latch would help. The center of latch jaws line up perfect on center of pin with pin head landing beside the jaws
with no rubbing. All aspects say it should have worked perfectly. So I’m at a loss. I think the GMC is sensing my building animosity. I may look
at replacing the whole GMC door lock/latch contraption with a standard RV door latch system.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
Someone somewhere has a parts coach with a good latch. I'd try to find
that before going to something more conventional -- and probably less
effective.

JMHO,
Ken H.

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 9:02 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> > M.,
> >
> > I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for
> the
> > striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on is
> > not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine, which
> > was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM
> one
> > from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local
> fabrication
> > project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door
> facing
> > allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a
> Dremel
> > tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then
> the
> > other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
> > inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
> > ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate.
> As
> > I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
> > interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement on
> > your new one.
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> >
> > > Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the
> pin.
> > > If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate
> and
> > > they are different that would explain why old plate works and new
> plate
> > > doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard
> holes
> > > and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction
> I
> > > will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the
> door
> > > may
> > > hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard
> holes
> > > and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> > > --
> > > M Beam
> > > 75’ Avion
> > > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > > Zuki Sidekick,
> > > Dozier Al
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> Comparing old plate to new plate shows exact same width,length and
> thickness but the distance between outboard edge of plate to outboard
> inside edge
> of pin there is a difference. The new pin is 1/8” closer to outer edge and
> the pin is about 1/8” longer than original pin. So that blows my theory
> that having the pin closer to door latch would help. The center of latch
> jaws line up perfect on center of pin with pin head landing beside the jaws
> with no rubbing. All aspects say it should have worked perfectly. So I’m
> at a loss. I think the GMC is sensing my building animosity. I may look
> at replacing the whole GMC door lock/latch contraption with a standard RV
> door latch system.
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
We sell all type door latch/lock, none stand up to use like the GMC
Also most cannot do it tastefully.

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 7:15 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Someone somewhere has a parts coach with a good latch. I'd try to find
> that before going to something more conventional -- and probably less
> effective.
>
> JMHO,
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 9:02 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>

> > > M.,
> > >
> > > I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for
> > the
> > > striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on
> is
> > > not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine,
> which
> > > was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM
> > one
> > > from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local
> > fabrication
> > > project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door
> > facing
> > > allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a
> > Dremel
> > > tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then
> > the
> > > other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
> > > inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
> > > ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate.
> > As
> > > I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
> > > interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement
> on
> > > your new one.
> > >
> > > HTH,
> > >
> > > Ken H.
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> > >
> > > > Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the
> > pin.
> > > > If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate
> > and
> > > > they are different that would explain why old plate works and new
> > plate
> > > > doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard
> > holes
> > > > and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard
> direction
> > I
> > > > will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the
> > door
> > > > may
> > > > hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard
> > holes
> > > > and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> > > > --
> > > > M Beam
> > > > 75’ Avion
> > > > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > > > Zuki Sidekick,
> > > > Dozier Al
> > > >
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > Comparing old plate to new plate shows exact same width,length and
> > thickness but the distance between outboard edge of plate to outboard
> > inside edge
> > of pin there is a difference. The new pin is 1/8” closer to outer edge
> and
> > the pin is about 1/8” longer than original pin. So that blows my theory
> > that having the pin closer to door latch would help. The center of latch
> > jaws line up perfect on center of pin with pin head landing beside the
> jaws
> > with no rubbing. All aspects say it should have worked perfectly. So I’m
> > at a loss. I think the GMC is sensing my building animosity. I may look
> > at replacing the whole GMC door lock/latch contraption with a standard RV
> > door latch system.
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75’ Avion
> > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > Zuki Sidekick,
> > Dozier Al
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
> Someone somewhere has a parts coach with a good latch. I'd try to find
> that before going to something more conventional -- and probably less
> effective.
>
> JMHO,
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 9:02 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>

> >> M.,
> >>
> >> I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range for
> > the
> >> striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging on is
> >> not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine, which
> >> was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an OEM
> > one
> >> from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local
> > fabrication
> >> project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door
> > facing
> >> allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a
> > Dremel
> >> tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and then
> > the
> >> other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about the
> >> inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the outboard
> >> ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the plate.
> > As
> >> I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
> >> interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that engagement on
> >> your new one.
> >>
> >> HTH,
> >>
> >> Ken H.
> >>
> >>

> >>
> >>> Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be the
> > pin.
> >>> If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old plate
> > and
> >>> they are different that would explain why old plate works and new
> > plate
> >>> doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard
> > holes
> >>> and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard direction
> > I
> >>> will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise the
> > door
> >>> may
> >>> hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard
> > holes
> >>> and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> >>> --
> >>> M Beam
> >>> 75’ Avion
> >>> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> >>> Zuki Sidekick,
> >>> Dozier Al
> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> GMCnet mailing list
> >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> > Comparing old plate to new plate shows exact same width,length and
> > thickness but the distance between outboard edge of plate to outboard
> > inside edge
> > of pin there is a difference. The new pin is 1/8” closer to outer edge and
> > the pin is about 1/8” longer than original pin. So that blows my theory
> > that having the pin closer to door latch would help. The center of latch
> > jaws line up perfect on center of pin with pin head landing beside the jaws
> > with no rubbing. All aspects say it should have worked perfectly. So I’m
> > at a loss. I think the GMC is sensing my building animosity. I may look
> > at replacing the whole GMC door lock/latch contraption with a standard RV
> > door latch system.
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75’ Avion
> > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > Zuki Sidekick,
> > Dozier Al
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

I’ve decided to put the old strike plate back on and just live with the required additional force to close it. I don’t really want to waste
anymore money or time on it now. As far as effectiveness goes the door latch/lock mechanism on my 2004 Titanium has had tons of abuse and works like
new. The metal throw for the latch and separate lockable dead bolt are very solid. In addition the absence of rods and levers needed to simply latch
the door means it’s less likely to break down and cause a lock in/out situation.

Again thanks for the help hopefully it will go back to working with old striker plate.

--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
We do supply the modified Latch assembly.
Just take the measurements and we will be able to send one that is correct
length.
There is no reason to have to force shut the door.
Also a touch of light Lub cannot heart.

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 5:55 AM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> > Someone somewhere has a parts coach with a good latch. I'd try to find
> > that before going to something more conventional -- and probably less
> > effective.
> >
> > JMHO,
> > Ken H.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 9:02 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> >

> > >> M.,
> > >>
> > >> I agree with you that GMC should have allowed more adjustment range
> for
> > > the
> > >> striker plate. It turns out that the "new" one I've been bragging
> on is
> > >> not the original plate. The original is slightly wider than mine,
> which
> > >> was obviously fabricated from 1/4"x2" bar stock. So, I removed an
> OEM
> > > one
> > >> from a friend's coach to use as a model for our possible local
> > > fabrication
> > >> project. I was shocked at how little movement the holes in the door
> > > facing
> > >> allow. If I were in your shoes, needing to enlarge them, I'd use a
> > > Dremel
> > >> tool with a burr for the job so I could easily grind first one and
> then
> > > the
> > >> other of those over the threaded plate. And I wouldn't worry about
> the
> > >> inboard ones until I'd gotten the adjustment correct with the
> outboard
> > >> ones. Another point I'd watch carefully is the shimming of the
> plate.
> > > As
> > >> I've mentioned, my plate needs some more shims to eliminate slight
> > >> interference with the locking jaws. You need to check that
> engagement on
> > >> your new one.
> > >>
> > >> HTH,
> > >>
> > >> Ken H.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:12 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist >

> > >>
> > >>> Sorry I did not make clear what I’d be grinding. It would not be
> the
> > > pin.
> > >>> If I compare the placement of the pin on the new plate and old
> plate
> > > and
> > >>> they are different that would explain why old plate works and new
> > > plate
> > >>> doesn’t. If they are the same then I’ll have to extend the outboard
> > > holes
> > >>> and the inboard holes. If I have to move the plate outboard
> direction
> > > I
> > >>> will have to grind down the outboard side of the plate otherwise
> the
> > > door
> > >>> may
> > >>> hit it. There are no cage nuts. Just threaded plate for outboard
> > > holes
> > >>> and standard hex nuts for two inboard holes.
> > >>> --
> > >>> M Beam
> > >>> 75’ Avion
> > >>> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > >>> Zuki Sidekick,
> > >>> Dozier Al
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> GMCnet mailing list
> > >> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > >> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > > Comparing old plate to new plate shows exact same width,length and
> > > thickness but the distance between outboard edge of plate to outboard
> > > inside edge
> > > of pin there is a difference. The new pin is 1/8” closer to outer
> edge and
> > > the pin is about 1/8” longer than original pin. So that blows my
> theory
> > > that having the pin closer to door latch would help. The center of
> latch
> > > jaws line up perfect on center of pin with pin head landing beside
> the jaws
> > > with no rubbing. All aspects say it should have worked perfectly. So
> I’m
> > > at a loss. I think the GMC is sensing my building animosity. I may
> look
> > > at replacing the whole GMC door lock/latch contraption with a
> standard RV
> > > door latch system.
> > > --
> > > M Beam
> > > 75’ Avion
> > > TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> > > Zuki Sidekick,
> > > Dozier Al
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> I’ve decided to put the old strike plate back on and just live with the
> required additional force to close it. I don’t really want to waste
> anymore money or time on it now. As far as effectiveness goes the door
> latch/lock mechanism on my 2004 Titanium has had tons of abuse and works
> like
> new. The metal throw for the latch and separate lockable dead bolt are
> very solid. In addition the absence of rods and levers needed to simply
> latch
> the door means it’s less likely to break down and cause a lock in/out
> situation.
>
> Again thanks for the help hopefully it will go back to working with old
> striker plate.
>
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion
> TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
> Zuki Sidekick,
> Dozier Al
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Jim Bounds (Co-op), in one of his Daily Pose, wrote about a second latching problem. It turned out the outside edge of the pin plate was too wide, not
allowing the door to make the second latch.
Ha... found the page. You might check this out.
http://www.gmccoop.com/gmc-motorhome-rubys-door-clicks-twice/
--
Patti & Jerry Burt Fresno, CA.
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands
77 Palm Beach - Parts Coach - SOLD
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS
A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour.
 
> Jim Bounds (Co-op), in one of his Daily Pose, wrote about a second latching problem. It turned out the outside edge of the pin plate was too wide,
> not allowing the door to make the second latch.
> Ha... found the page. You might check this out.
> http://www.gmccoop.com/gmc-motorhome-rubys-door-clicks-twice/

Thanks. I actually read that article. Initially I thought I might have to shave the new plate because I assumed the pin was to far inboard and
that’s why it wouldn’t do a 2nd latch. Turns out the pin actually sits 1/8” more outboard than stock pin. So jaws not reaching is not the
problem. In addition, the new and old plate I have both sit flush with the edge of the first channel on the frame. So the door would just hit the
frame/channel if I shaved the plate edge.

From the marks on the new pin I believe it’s hitting the latch frame. As the pin goes into the latch jaws they latch down for the first lock. Not a
problem because that area is wider. However just passed that the frame of the latch narrows considerably and that’s where the second latch is
activated. At that point the pin barrel needs to hit both upper and lower jaws simultaneously or it won’t move. It looks like the new pin is hitting
that upper narrowed area putting more force on upper jaw instead of equal force on both jaws. Therefore the jaws will not push in and latch. We are
only talking about 1/16” to high but it’s enough. My original pin actually engages the secondary latch albeit with some extra force. I believe
it’s because it has rubber bushing wrapped around the pin barrel with another bushing made of thin metal with a gap wrapped around the rubber. That
allows just enough movement up or down as it’s pushed through narrow section thus allowing it to push both secondary jaws simultaneously. Sorry if
I didn’t described this clearly. In other words The factory designed pin allows for some misalignment by being flexible. The solid pin does not. So
I will be elongating the outboard holes In order to adjust the striker plate and pin downward. The inboard holes are factory oversized and don’t
need to be elongated.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
 
I'm sure you've moved way beyond this, but on my coach the second latch never engaged without some force because the door was curved in at the bottom,
and the PO had installed foam insulation that resisted closing. Once I closed the door with resolve on a 2/4 stuck in the opening at the bottom and
removed the foam it made it to the second latch.

I assume you've tried removing the striker plate and pin completely to see if the door itself will close as it should.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.
 
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