Door Curve

[LarryW]

> I was able to recurve the latch side at the bottom - which was too far out - by putting a 2x4 between it and the ground and pushing on the door at
> the latch area with my shoulder. That allowed the door to close enough that the second part of the latch engaged.

My pea brain is not following your description. Any chance you have some pictures you could post?
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[Ken B]

After watching Jim Bounds do that to a coach, I copied him and have done mine and several other doors that way same way.

Just figure out what way it has to be bent and push.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[jim kanomata1]

Amazing how the aluminum structure bends

On Fri, Apr 3, 2020 at 10:52 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> After watching Jim Bounds do that to a coach, I copied him and have done
> mine and several other doors that way same way.
>
> Just figure out what way it has to be bent and push.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[LarryW]

> No pictures, sorry.
>
> If the bottom of the door hits the jamb first (and keeps the middle and top from closing)
>
> You want to stick something (a 2x4, for example) in the door opening at the bottom, latch side corner. Then rest the bottom of the 2x4 on the
> ground and close the door on it gently so that it doesn't fall out. It will be at an angle with the top of the 2x4 inside the coach and the bottom
> outside. Now push on latch edge of the door a little and you will see the top and middle spring closer while the bottom stays where it was because
> the 2x4 is in the way and then spring back when you release it. Next, push on it harder. I sort of 'bounced' it against the 2x4 with resolve, took
> the 2x4 out and noticed that the top and middle was now closer. That gave me hope so did it some more. Eventually care, luck, resolve, and the
> plastic deformation property of aluminum moved the bottom of the latch side of the door out so that it had the same shape as the latch side of the
> coach. At that point I was done and door completely.
>
> Before I started the process, I removed some stick-on weatherstripping on the door jamb that a PO had stuck in there to keep the breeze out
> because the bottom was holding the whole door away from the jamb.
>
> Let me know if you have specific questions about the procedure I described above.

Thanks, as soon as the snow melts (we got 2" today) I'll be trying it.
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

 

[Ken B]

I guess I should have said, brace the rest of the door and push on the part you want to bend.

I watched Jim get picnic table at one of rallys (I helped move it), stand on it to get up higher, and man handle the door until it fit the curve
perfectly. I think we spent more time moving the picnic table than he did straightening the door.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

 

[Ken B]

The solid door latch does help some but it is not going to fix the problem if the problem is something else. The in the regular latch the center pin
had a rubber bushing around the pin to allow some minor flexing and a softer closure. Over the years I assume the rubber started falling apart. I
have never seen an OEM one that would not latch if you closed the door harder.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana