Door adjustment

G

Greg C.

Active member
Oct 11, 2019
256
23
28
My new coach door won't close all the way without slamming it much harder than I would like.

Chuck Boyd looked at it and suggested some lubrication, and failing that, adjustment.

How do I go about adjusting this?

It appears that the strike has four #3 (actually 3, one is missing) Phillips head screws and possibly sliding captured nuts that will move.

Does the actual latch on the door have any adjustments?

As you can see below, the door lacks almost 3/8" being flush with the body.

[url]"]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7311/Door_needs_adjusting.jpg][url]
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
Greg,

You must have missed the thread on that very topic a week ago:
https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/u/0/#search/latch/FMfcgxwJWjBjSJZLKZzrrnmGDcSFddGc

There was also a little earlier one about re-curving the door, which you
may also need. Go to the GMCNet archive at
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/gmcnet-archive for that and other
threads you may need -- just search for a key word, like "recurve".

I can't overemphasize the importance of the solid pin striker. Jim K. has
reported problems getting cores so you may have a little difficulty
ordering one right away -- but DO get one. And when you remove the old one
BE SURE TO NEVER remove all 4 screws at once -- the nut plate is not
captured and you may lose it inside the wall.

Ken H.

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 4:15 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> My new coach door won't close all the way without slamming it much harder
> than I would like.
>
> Chuck Boyd looked at it and suggested some lubrication, and failing that,
> adjustment.
>
> How do I go about adjusting this?
>
> It appears that the strike has four #3 (actually 3, one is missing)
> Phillips head screws and possibly sliding captured nuts that will move.
>
> Does the actual latch on the door have any adjustments?
>
> As you can see below, the door lacks almost 3/8" being flush with the body.
>
> [url]"]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7311/Door_needs_adjusting.jpg][url]
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> 1977 Royale, rear bath
> Quad bags, brand unknown
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Cannot see your image. I’m an email user.
The latch is not adjustable for door alignment purposes. The adjustment is
accomplished by moving the strike that the latch grabs. Loosen it a bit and
tap it with a hammer and large screw driver. You may want to circle the
latch with a marker so you can return to where you were before you started
if need be. Sometimes due to the way the double action latch works you will
actually have to move the pin outward in order to get the latch to its
second position which will pull the door inward compared to the body.

Sully
Bellevue wa

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 1:15 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> My new coach door won't close all the way without slamming it much harder
> than I would like.
>
> Chuck Boyd looked at it and suggested some lubrication, and failing that,
> adjustment.
>
> How do I go about adjusting this?
>
> It appears that the strike has four #3 (actually 3, one is missing)
> Phillips head screws and possibly sliding captured nuts that will move.
>
> Does the actual latch on the door have any adjustments?
>
> As you can see below, the door lacks almost 3/8" being flush with the body.
>
> [url]"]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7311/Door_needs_adjusting.jpg][url]
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> 1977 Royale, rear bath
> Quad bags, brand unknown
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Sorry. Meant to say circle the strike pin.

Sully
Bellevue wa

> Cannot see your image. I’m an email user.
> The latch is not adjustable for door alignment purposes. The adjustment is
> accomplished by moving the strike that the latch grabs. Loosen it a bit and
> tap it with a hammer and large screw driver. You may want to circle the
> latch with a marker so you can return to where you were before you started
> if need be. Sometimes due to the way the double action latch works you will
> actually have to move the pin outward in order to get the latch to its
> second position which will pull the door inward compared to the body.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
>
> On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 1:15 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

>
>> My new coach door won't close all the way without slamming it much harder
>> than I would like.
>>
>> Chuck Boyd looked at it and suggested some lubrication, and failing that,
>> adjustment.
>>
>> How do I go about adjusting this?
>>
>> It appears that the strike has four #3 (actually 3, one is missing)
>> Phillips head screws and possibly sliding captured nuts that will move.
>>
>> Does the actual latch on the door have any adjustments?
>>
>> As you can see below, the door lacks almost 3/8" being flush with the
>> body.
>>
>> [url"]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7311/Door_needs_adjusting.jpg][url
>> ]
>> --
>> Greg Crawford
>> Knoxville, TN
>>
>> 1977 Royale, rear bath
>> Quad bags, brand unknown
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
 
So to be clear, I should loosen the four #3 Phillips head screws and move the entire strike?

Or can the actual pin be loosened and adjusted?

Thanks!
--
Greg Crawford
Knoxville, TN

1977 Royale, rear bath
Quad bags, brand unknown
 
The pin's welded into the plate so that must move. The pin is surrounded
with rubber and a tube. The rubber has deteriorated to the point that it
doesn't have sufficient resistance to inward movement to make the latch
operate properly. You'll probably have to move the plate outboard to get
the latch to go to the second stage. Then, the rubber will allow some
"slop", so the door still won't close as tightly as you'd like. The solid
steel pin makes it all work better -- once we can find you one. I just
removed mine to take to my metalworkers tomorrow to see about having some
made. I'll keep you posted.

Ken H.

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 8:50 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

> So to be clear, I should loosen the four #3 Phillips head screws and move
> the entire strike?
>
> Or can the actual pin be loosened and adjusted?
>
> Thanks!
> --
> Greg Crawford
> Knoxville, TN
>
> 1977 Royale, rear bath
> Quad bags, brand unknown
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I believe the pin is either "smashed" in like a rivet, or it's welded
--
John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
 
Howdy Ken,

If your metalworker friend can make several, please set one aside for me if
you don’t mind. I look forward to seeing you at the next GMCMI convention,
whenever and wherever that might be!

Virtual hugs,
Vern and Lenore

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 8:39 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> The pin's welded into the plate so that must move. The pin is surrounded
> with rubber and a tube. The rubber has deteriorated to the point that it
> doesn't have sufficient resistance to inward movement to make the latch
> operate properly. You'll probably have to move the plate outboard to get
> the latch to go to the second stage. Then, the rubber will allow some
> "slop", so the door still won't close as tightly as you'd like. The solid
> steel pin makes it all work better -- once we can find you one. I just
> removed mine to take to my metalworkers tomorrow to see about having some
> made. I'll keep you posted.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 8:50 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

>
> > So to be clear, I should loosen the four #3 Phillips head screws and move
> > the entire strike?
> >
> > Or can the actual pin be loosened and adjusted?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > --
> > Greg Crawford
> > Knoxville, TN
> >
> > 1977 Royale, rear bath
> > Quad bags, brand unknown
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Vern Crawford (and Lenore Langsdorf)
155 JJ Lane
Center Point, TX 78010
(618) 203-8296 Vern's cell
(830) 928-5550 Lenore's cell
VernCrawford
LenoreLangsdorf
 
It is welded on the back side and ground off almost flat.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
Vern,
Wilco. If he's willing/able, I'll announce it.

Ken H.

On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 10:42 PM Vern Crawford
wrote:

> Howdy Ken,
>
> If your metalworker friend can make several, please set one aside for me
> if you don’t mind. I look forward to seeing you at the next GMCMI
> convention, whenever and wherever that might be!
>
> Virtual hugs,
> Vern and Lenore
>
> On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 8:39 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

>
>> The pin's welded into the plate so that must move. The pin is surrounded
>> with rubber and a tube. The rubber has deteriorated to the point that it
>> doesn't have sufficient resistance to inward movement to make the latch
>> operate properly. You'll probably have to move the plate outboard to get
>> the latch to go to the second stage. Then, the rubber will allow some
>> "slop", so the door still won't close as tightly as you'd like. The solid
>> steel pin makes it all work better -- once we can find you one. I just
>> removed mine to take to my metalworkers tomorrow to see about having some
>> made. I'll keep you posted.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 16, 2020 at 8:50 PM Greg Crawford via Gmclist <

>>
>> > So to be clear, I should loosen the four #3 Phillips head screws and
>> move
>> > the entire strike?
>> >
>> > Or can the actual pin be loosened and adjusted?
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> > --
>> > Greg Crawford
>> > Knoxville, TN
>> >
>> > 1977 Royale, rear bath
>> > Quad bags, brand unknown
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > GMCnet mailing list
>> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> --
> Vern Crawford (and Lenore Langsdorf)
> 155 JJ Lane
> Center Point, TX 78010
> (618) 203-8296 Vern's cell
> (830) 928-5550 Lenore's cell
> VernCrawford
> LenoreLangsdorf
>
>
 
The machinist and I will get together shortly. He's interested in the
project -- especially since he may be in the market for a GMC. While he's
very busy with USAF contracts, he has CNC mills & lathes; lazer, plasma,
and water jet cutters so the project will be trivial for him.

Ken H.
 
Thanks for the update.

> The machinist and I will get together shortly. He's interested in the
> project -- especially since he may be in the market for a GMC. While he's
> very busy with USAF contracts, he has CNC mills & lathes; lazer, plasma,
> and water jet cutters so the project will be trivial for him.
>
> Ken H.
>
 
Great!

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 11:59 AM Ken Henderson
wrote:

> The machinist and I will get together shortly. He's interested in the
> project -- especially since he may be in the market for a GMC. While he's
> very busy with USAF contracts, he has CNC mills & lathes; lazer, plasma,
> and water jet cutters so the project will be trivial for him.
>
> Ken H.
>
--
Vern Crawford (and Lenore Langsdorf)
155 JJ Lane
Center Point, TX 78010
(618) 203-8296 Vern's cell
(830) 928-5550 Lenore's cell
VernCrawford
LenoreLangsdorf
 
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