Door adjustment

M

MikeB

Active member
Dec 24, 2018
288
29
28
Lower Alabama
Hey Folks
I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut the
bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16 out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16" and
bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve could
improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower than
strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I slam it
with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it 1/8" AT THE LATCH.

I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the
catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.

Thanks
Mike

--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
Our door fits good but had to shut hard to get it to latch. I squirted a little wd40 in the door latch and now it clicks shut easily. ??? Now if I
shut it hard it will bounce and only fasten half way. The easier I shut it the tighter it is. .???

> Hey Folks
> I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut
> the bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16 out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16"
> and bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve
> could improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower
> than strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I
> slam it with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it 1/8" AT THE LATCH.
>
> I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the
> catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
> Ps I'm not on email and can only see forum posts.

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
> Our door fits good but had to shut hard to get it to latch. I squirted a little wd40 in the door latch and now it clicks shut easily. ??? Now
> if I shut it hard it will bounce and only fasten half way. The easier I shut it the tighter it is. .???
>
>
>

> > Hey Folks
> > I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed
> > shut the bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16 out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset
> > about 1/16" and bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully
> > handle recurve could improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch
> > about 1/4" lower than strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top
> > latch corner. If I slam it with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it 1/8" AT THE LATCH.
> >
> > I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or
> > the catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Mike
> >
> > Ps I'm not on email and can only see forum posts.

Yeah already lubed it. The bottom of door hits first and just enough to to half latch it. To get the top gap (latch side top corner) I have to slam
hard.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
Mike,
I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the Dorman
"HELP" rack at most parts stores.

2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.

3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my computer
won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it sound
as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan and I
used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should still
work.

4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around which
the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching the
second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago built
them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years after
he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
now.

5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door, now
only the one.
Good luck,
Ken H.

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> Hey Folks
> I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming it
> takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut the
> bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is 1/16
> out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16" and
> bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between
> the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve could
> improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too low
> albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower than
> strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that
> leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I slam
> it
> with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it
> 1/8" AT THE LATCH.
>
> I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge
> bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the
> catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
>
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion Lots of Mods
> Zuki Sidekick
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
See
http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/
Recurving the GMC door

bdub

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 7:07 PM Ken Henderson via Gmclist <

> Mike,
> I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
> little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
> thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
> and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
> 1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
> looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the Dorman
> "HELP" rack at most parts stores.
>
> 2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
> bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
> probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.
>
> 3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
> manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
> album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my computer
> won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
> hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it sound
> as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan and I
> used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should still
> work.
>
> 4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
> door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around which
> the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching the
> second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago built
> them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
> slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years after
> he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
> now.
>
> 5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
> regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
> repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door, now
> only the one.
> Good luck,
> Ken H.
>
> On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>
> > Hey Folks
> > I'm on the road killing some time and would like to reduce the slamming
> it
> > takes to fully close the door. Curvature wise when door is slammed shut
> the
> > bottom latch side corner is inset about an 1/8" and top latch side is
> 1/16
> > out but almost flush. The top hinge side corner is inset about 1/16" and
> > bottom is about the same but varies due to a slight outward bulge between
> > the bottom hinge and belt line. I know some carefully handle recurve
> could
> > improve the situation. But for now the entire door sits about 1/4" too
> low
> > albeit well oriented. This puts the door catch about 1/4" lower than
> > strike. So when I close the door with normal force I get a latching that
> > leaves a sizable gap at door between latch and top latch corner. If I
> slam
> > it
> > with my hand about a foot high that latch it closes tight but insets it
> > 1/8" AT THE LATCH.
> >
> > I've not been able to lift door vertically even after loosening the hinge
> > bolts on body side. So is there a way to move the strike outwards or the
> > catch inwards? I feel this may reduce the force needed to close door.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75’ Avion Lots of Mods
> > Zuki Sidekick
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Mike,
> I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
> little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
> thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
> and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
> 1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
> looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the Dorman
> "HELP" rack at most parts stores.
>
> 2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
> bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
> probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.
>
> 3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
> manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
> album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my computer
> won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
> hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it sound
> as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan and I
> used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should still
> work.
>
> 4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
> door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around which
> the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching the
> second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago built
> them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
> slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years after
> he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
> now.
>
> 5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
> regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
> repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door, now
> only the one.
> Good luck,
> Ken H.
>
> On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
> [

Hi Ken, thanks for the info. I'll definitely be looking forward to digging into it all when I get home. Currently Im on my maiden voyage trying to
leave Missoula where I just bought this rig and working to head back to Alabama. Was hoping a striker adjustment could be done as a small improvement.
I guess the only striker adjustment is buying the one Bill invented. I think my hinges have been damaged and half-a$$ reinstalled. Oh and my striker
has no sleeve so I don't know if it is the upgrade or the sleeve popped off.

I guess I'll be a slammin until I get home.

Thanks.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
You can’t easily tell by looking if the striker has a rubber core or not.
The solid-pin striker I bought years ago was painted black, unlike the
original. That made all the difference. Start with Ken’s No. 4.

Rick “who needs one finger, plus just a bit of momentum” Denney

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 11:22 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> > Mike,
> > I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
> > little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
> > thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
> > and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
> > 1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
> > looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the
> Dorman
> > "HELP" rack at most parts stores.
> >
> > 2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
> > bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
> > probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.
> >
> > 3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
> > manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
> > album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my
> computer
> > won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
> > hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it
> sound
> > as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan
> and I
> > used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should
> still
> > work.
> >
> > 4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
> > door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around
> which
> > the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching
> the
> > second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago
> built
> > them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
> > slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years
> after
> > he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
> > now.
> >
> > 5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
> > regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
> > repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door,
> now
> > only the one.
> > Good luck,
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
> > [
>
> Hi Ken, thanks for the info. I'll definitely be looking forward to digging
> into it all when I get home. Currently Im on my maiden voyage trying to
> leave Missoula where I just bought this rig and working to head back to
> Alabama. Was hoping a striker adjustment could be done as a small
> improvement.
> I guess the only striker adjustment is buying the one Bill invented. I
> think my hinges have been damaged and half-a$$ reinstalled. Oh and my
> striker
> has no sleeve so I don't know if it is the upgrade or the sleeve popped
> off.
>
> I guess I'll be a slammin until I get home.
>
> Thanks.
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion Lots of Mods
> Zuki Sidekick
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
 
Where, Alabama? Can't be TOO far from us.

Ken H.
Americus, GA

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 11:22 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> > Mike,
> > I'm lucky -- my door closes and latches "with one finger". But there's a
> > little more to the story than that. It sounds as if you've pretty
> > thoroughly investigated your problem, but some of the things I've done
> > and/or observed over the past 21 years may help:
> > 1. Be sure the hinge bushings and pins are not worn. Apparently minor
> > looseness can cause big problems. Replacements are available on the
> Dorman
> > "HELP" rack at most parts stores.
> >
> > 2. Check the door itself as well as the casing where the hinges are
> > bolted. The door structure is prone to cracking near the hinges. You'll
> > probably have to take the door panel off to see the damage.
> >
> > 3. The curvature of the door is more easily corrected than with the
> > manual's procedure: Dan Winchester's web site has details. I've got an
> > album at gmcmhphotos.com under the username "kenhenders", but my
> computer
> > won't connect right now for me to post a URL. That technique uses a
> > hydraulic bottle jack as the forcing tool. Your description makes it
> sound
> > as if you may need to change the configuration a little from that Dan
> and I
> > used in order to adjust more than one area, but the principle should
> still
> > work.
> >
> > 4. The door striker is a large contributor to difficulty in closing the
> > door. The OEM version has a rubber layer inside the cylinder around
> which
> > the latch catches. That rubber prevents the latch from easily reaching
> the
> > second latch step. Bill Bramlett, a long-time GMCer, some years ago
> built
> > them with no rubber -- just a steel pin. That eliminated a LOT of door
> > slamming when I finally got around to putting it on a couple of years
> after
> > he gave me one. It's well worth whatever Applied GMC's charging for them
> > now.
> >
> > 5. Also on gmcmhphotos is a album about cleaning, degreasing, and
> > regreasing the door latch mechanism. That recent effort was more than
> > repaid by the results. It formerly took two fingers to latch the door,
> now
> > only the one.
> > Good luck,
> > Ken H.
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 4:25 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <
> > [
>
> Hi Ken, thanks for the info. I'll definitely be looking forward to digging
> into it all when I get home. Currently Im on my maiden voyage trying to
> leave Missoula where I just bought this rig and working to head back to
> Alabama. Was hoping a striker adjustment could be done as a small
> improvement.
> I guess the only striker adjustment is buying the one Bill invented. I
> think my hinges have been damaged and half-a$$ reinstalled. Oh and my
> striker
> has no sleeve so I don't know if it is the upgrade or the sleeve popped
> off.
>
> I guess I'll be a slammin until I get home.
>
> Thanks.
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion Lots of Mods
> Zuki Sidekick
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I had a perfect door on my coach for the first 3 days. Then I sideswiped a Cutlass and caught the hinge on his front quarter panel, peeling it like a
can of sardines. My lower hinge is now bent and the bottom of the door has broken away from it. Still, the upper hinge does its thing and so I'll
address this when it's time for paint.

Jim K has replacement hinges:
https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm23-065-41.htm
https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm23-065-41.htm
--
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
 
"Where, Alabama? Can't be TOO far from us.

Ken H.
Americus, GA"

I live just North of Opp Al

--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
Check your ride height to be sure its equal side to side. Mine shuts nice when we are are on a relatively flat surface. If one side front or rear is
way high or low, then some slamming is in order!

--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Good, only 150 miles or so from us. We'll look forward to your joining us
at GMC Dixielanders activities. Or just visiting here.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 5:59 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

> "Where, Alabama? Can't be TOO far from us.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA"
>
>
> I live just North of Opp Al
>
>
>
> --
> M Beam
> 75’ Avion Lots of Mods
> Zuki Sidekick
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
> Good, only 150 miles or so from us. We'll look forward to your joining us
> at GMC Dixielanders activities. Or just visiting here.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
> Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019 at 5:59 PM mtb8114--- via Gmclist <

>
> > "Where, Alabama? Can't be TOO far from us.
> >
> > Ken H.
> > Americus, GA"
> >
> >
> > I live just North of Opp Al
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > M Beam
> > 75' Avion Lots of Mods
> > Zuki Sidekick
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

Ken
Yes if and when I make it back I'm certainly interested in joining up and learning from y'all.
--
M Beam
75’ Avion Lots of Mods
Zuki Sidekick
 
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