Don't get electrocuted! (was:Temporary Shore Power)

Henry...

>TENS and other medical electronics take great pains to control frequency
>and current flow. Providing a ground for a GMC doesn't sound very
>appealing to me. Henry

Could you elaborate just a bit more on your ground comment? Do you mean
electrically (technically) speaking? Physically (as in having to drive
in a ground rod in a client's parking lot)? This is not a set-up
question and I'm sure their are pros and cons on each side and I don't
have a clue .

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>Henry...
>
>>TENS and other medical electronics take great pains to control frequency
>>and current flow. Providing a ground for a GMC doesn't sound very
>>appealing to me. Henry
>
>Could you elaborate just a bit more on your ground comment? Do you mean
>electrically (technically) speaking? Physically (as in having to drive
>in a ground rod in a client's parking lot)? This is not a set-up
>question and I'm sure their are pros and cons on each side and I don't
>have a clue .
>

Hmmm ... I was thinking of becoming the ground path when one wasn't
present. Not a pleasant thought.

Henry
Henry Davis Consulting, Inc / new product consulting
PO Box 1270 / product readiness reviews
Soquel, Ca 95073 / IP reviews
ph: (831) 462-5199 / full service marketing
fax: (831) 462-5198
http://www.henry-davis.com/ http://www.henry-davis.com
 
John,
Thanks for thinking so highly of me. Unfortunately, I'm not the one
that wrote about "the Floating Ground System in the GMC". I did
make a few comments however.

Richard Waters
- ------------------------

> Richard Waters...
>
> If you are still there... I think I recall you posted an excellent write
> up on the Floating Ground System in the GMC. (I can't find my copy) If
> I am correct, and you can easily do so, would you repost, under this
> subject? If you can't find it easily, I'm sure someone has a copy that
> they can find.
>
> It would be easy just to forward another copy, but I don't think our
> Mailinglists.org will pass forwarded messages to cut down on annoyance
> forwarding.
>
> Regards,
> John
>
> --
> "I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
> John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
> Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Open for comments from all... just trying to clear up a myth that the
label writers may have created while trying to help GMCers protect
themselves at the same time as they limit their liability when they
installed a CFI in the GMC motorhome.

>> Providing a ground for a GMC doesn't sound very
>> appealing to me. Henry

>Could you elaborate just a bit more on your ground comment? Do you mean
>electrically (technically) speaking? Physically (as in having to drive
>in a ground rod in a client's parking lot)? This is not a set-up
>question and I'm sure there are pros and cons on each side and I don't
>have a clue . John

>>Hmmm ... I was thinking of becoming the ground path when one wasn't
>>present. Not a pleasant thought. Henry

Ok... Now I follow you. Then it fits in with what I wanted to get on
the table for discussion. Lets say the most dangerous kind of a short to
ground occurs in someones GMC, that being a hot wire (120 vac) to chassis
ground. And lets assume that the short is a lower resistance short than
Edgar's (2000 ohm) and even lower than Gary's (500 ohms). But it is high
enough so that the circuit breaker doesn't trip. Let say something like
20 ohms is the resistance of the short to ground. So the short only
draws something like 6 amps and the circuit breaker does not trip.

Now lets assume there is an inline GFI in the circuit (either one that we
built, or one that we bought, or one that came with our GMC). And let's
assume we are at a campsite where there is a standard 20 amp oulet but
the ground is defective and we don't have a plug tester or don't use the
one we have.

So we plug in and the happy GMCers start turning on everything in the
motor home including the unit with the short to ground. Now since the
ground is defective (lets say it was just broken this morning when the
previous camper drove off while he was still hooked up to his shore power
line) He stopped quickly as someone yelled, and he just got out, coiled
his cord and left.

So we are enjoying the early evening, as some clouds blow in and it
begins to rain. The CFI doesn't trip because there is no ground
connection at the socket that was yanked earlier this morning, but not
obviously damaged otherwise. But there is a fair amount of voltage
present on the frame of the GMC, but since there is no path to ground
nothing happens.

So our situation is outside the wording of the label on some GMCs that
have OEM CFIs or we hear from a friend, that they were to be used on a
grounded power distribution system, but we were not quite sure what the
label meant (would it not work or what) Well we have already seen one
thing different from Mark Grady's daughter's experience the CFI did not
trip in our case when the unit with the short was turned on.

It rains all night, but the morning dawns bright and sunny but still cool
enough for a bike ride after breakfast. The kids can hardly wait to get
out and get the best, newest mountain bike and they all fly out the door
landing many feet from the door.

Now comes the situation where the first kid starts to take the best bike
down off the bike rack, while standing in a puddle of rainwater a couple
of inches deep. I feel the CFI will trip instantly and before much
current runs through the kid... but it is not 100% safe. In fact current
has to run through the kid for the CFI to trip and I think that is what
the label writers were trying to avoid. The only thing worse that I can
think of is, the same senario but without a CFI.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Already a caveat (provide as many as you can) ... don't anyone assume
that they have an inline CFI unless they know for sure that it is an
inline. There are some GMCs with CFIs that only protect certain circuits
and if the short were on an unprotected circuit, the CFI would not trip
even with the kid providing the connection to ground.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
I'll just add one small thought...

| Well we have already seen one
| thing different from Mark Grady's niece's experience the CFI did not
| trip in our case when the unit with the short was turned on.

I'm thinking that the reason the GFI in my garage didn't trip was because
the outlet was properly wired. (supply to brass/bronze 'hot' side and
neutral to silver).

The water heater element wasn't in the hot side of the circuit until the
water heater switch in the closet got turned on.

*IF* the outlet had been wired 'backwards', the heating element would have
been in the circuit since only one side is switched. *IF* the third wire
ground isn't good, then... Houston, we've got a problem. A serious one.

Personally, I'm not sure a 4' ground rod would do a lot of good, and plastic
water pipe even less.

I agree that even with a GFI you could feel a tingle before it trips.
Without one, that may be the last thing you feel.

Test it, then protect it.

Mark
 
John, I think you've got it; should work as you describe. As you imply, it
is much better that there be a ground connection, but the GFCI will, if
working correctly, trip when the kid goes for the bike. Which brings another
point--I have seen defective GFCI's that would no longer trip. That's why
they have a test button on them. It puts a high resistance to ground and
actually tests the operation of the GFCI. We should make a habit of testing
them often.

The only thing I see wrong with your description is the apparent impression
that the resistance of the ground fault is particularly relevant. Please
keep in mind that for the relativey high voltages we are talking about (120)
that it is going to make practically no difference whatever to the person
being shocked whether the ground fault is 2000 ohms or 20 ohms. Or 20000
ohms for that matter. If you apply Ohm's law to it, you'll see that a
dangerous level of current can flow through the human completing the
circuit at relatively high ground fault resistance. The resistance that the
human is supplying to the circuit varies greatly depending on a number of
conditions. In the example you supplied, of a kid standing in a puddle of
water grabbing the metal bicycle frame, let us say with both hands, the
circuit resistance through the kid is fairly low, so he is going to get
quite a shock even if the fault resistance is relatively high. Conversely,
on a dry day with rubber soled sneakers on, he wouldn't even feel a tingle
if the fault resistance were at or near zero. A ground fault of much higher
resistance than the 2000 ohms that Edgar measured could, under some
circumstances, be lethal. And under a LOT of circumstances it would be very
uncomfortable.

One thing that still haunts me about this thread is the reliablity of the
campground-supplied ground wire. In your hypothetical example, we have one
that is completely broken. A handy dandy checker would catch that so
therefore it is good practice to always check the outlet when hooking up.
But what if instead of being completely open, it is instead a corroded
connection of, say, 5000 ohms? The neon light in the handy dandy tester will
see 5000 ohms as a ground and will happily light, indicating a ground. Then
if your water heater element has a 2000 ohm fault as Edgar's did, you've got
a voltage divider putting the coach frame at a potential of five sevenths of
the line voltage above ground. This is close to a hundred volts, still
potentially lethal and definitely dangerous. But at least a GFCI should tip
immediately when you hook up. I still have the nagging feeling that it would
be prudent to try to provide a dedicated ground wire as part of the hook-up
procedure, even knowing that it is less than perfect. If it just provided
enough of a ground to cause your GFCI to trip, it was definitely worth
connecting.

I'm amazed at how many first-person anecdotes are coming in relating to
being shocked in the motorhome. I think we've hit on something here, and am
very glad it got brought up and discussed.

Electricity can be your best friend or your worst enemy.

Very best regards,

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Dolan
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Friday, July 09, 1999 1:04 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Don't get electrocuted! (was:Temporary Shore Power)

>Open for comments from all... just trying to clear up a myth that the
>label writers may have created while trying to help GMCers protect
>themselves at the same time as they limit their liability when they
>installed a CFI in the GMC motorhome.
>
>>> Providing a ground for a GMC doesn't sound very
>>> appealing to me. Henry
>
>>Could you elaborate just a bit more on your ground comment? Do you mean
>>electrically (technically) speaking? Physically (as in having to drive
>>in a ground rod in a client's parking lot)? This is not a set-up
>>question and I'm sure there are pros and cons on each side and I don't
>>have a clue . John
>
>>>Hmmm ... I was thinking of becoming the ground path when one wasn't
>>>present. Not a pleasant thought. Henry
>
>
>Ok... Now I follow you. Then it fits in with what I wanted to get on
>the table for discussion. Lets say the most dangerous kind of a short to
>ground occurs in someones GMC, that being a hot wire (120 vac) to chassis
>ground. And lets assume that the short is a lower resistance short than
>Edgar's (2000 ohm) and even lower than Gary's (500 ohms). But it is high
>enough so that the circuit breaker doesn't trip. Let say something like
>20 ohms is the resistance of the short to ground. So the short only
>draws something like 6 amps and the circuit breaker does not trip.
>
>Now lets assume there is an inline GFI in the circuit (either one that we
>built, or one that we bought, or one that came with our GMC). And let's
>assume we are at a campsite where there is a standard 20 amp oulet but
>the ground is defective and we don't have a plug tester or don't use the
>one we have.
>
>So we plug in and the happy GMCers start turning on everything in the
>motor home including the unit with the short to ground. Now since the
>ground is defective (lets say it was just broken this morning when the
>previous camper drove off while he was still hooked up to his shore power
>line) He stopped quickly as someone yelled, and he just got out, coiled
>his cord and left.
>
>So we are enjoying the early evening, as some clouds blow in and it
>begins to rain. The CFI doesn't trip because there is no ground
>connection at the socket that was yanked earlier this morning, but not
>obviously damaged otherwise. But there is a fair amount of voltage
>present on the frame of the GMC, but since there is no path to ground
>nothing happens.
>
>So our situation is outside the wording of the label on some GMCs that
>have OEM CFIs or we hear from a friend, that they were to be used on a
>grounded power distribution system, but we were not quite sure what the
>label meant (would it not work or what) Well we have already seen one
>thing different from Mark Grady's daughter's experience the CFI did not
>trip in our case when the unit with the short was turned on.
>
>It rains all night, but the morning dawns bright and sunny but still cool
>enough for a bike ride after breakfast. The kids can hardly wait to get
>out and get the best, newest mountain bike and they all fly out the door
>landing many feet from the door.
>
>Now comes the situation where the first kid starts to take the best bike
>down off the bike rack, while standing in a puddle of rainwater a couple
>of inches deep. I feel the CFI will trip instantly and before much
>current runs through the kid... but it is not 100% safe. In fact current
>has to run through the kid for the CFI to trip and I think that is what
>the label writers were trying to avoid. The only thing worse that I can
>think of is, the same senario but without a CFI.
>
>Regards,
>John
>
>--
>"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
>John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
>Potomac, just north of the White House.
>
 
Thanks for the constructive criticism guys, I can see the points you make
and plan to modify the senario as you suggested to incorporate the points
you raised. I plan to do this each time someone makes a suggested
improvement or addition or correction, as long as there is apparent
concurrence on the network. This will help with whatever liability I
might be engendering for myself or the commenter. But since I am not an
expert, but only using this as a tool to better and more complete
understanding primarily for myself, and only soliciting comments for
discussion, the commenter should not be relied upon, necessarialy, as an
expert (otherwise we will get less comments and more leagalize like the
warning decal on Royales which doesn't really explain anything).

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>The only thing I see wrong with your description is the apparent
>impression that the resistance of the ground fault is particularly
>relevant. Please keep in mind that for the relativey high voltages we
>are talking about (120) that it is going to make practically no
>difference whatever to the person being shocked whether the ground fault
>is 2000 ohms or 20 ohms. Or 20000 ohms for that matter. If you apply
>Ohm's law to it, you'll see that a dangerous level of current can flow
>through the human completing the circuit at relatively high ground fault
>resistance. The resistance that the human is supplying to the circuit
>varies greatly depending on a number of conditions. In the example you
>supplied, of a kid standing in a puddle of water grabbing the metal
>bicycle frame, let us say with both hands, the circuit resistance
>through the kid is fairly low, so he is going to get quite a shock even
>if the fault resistance is relatively high.

Maybe the senario should should present both a low and a high resistance
short example to drive that point home, rather than than reliying on the
reader to persue the logic (or as is often said, the other case is left
as an exercise for the student). The senario could show that because of
a slight tingle that was noticed at the sink, the low resistance short
was eliminated by shutting off the power or circuit breaker on the water
heater as might be done. But it is another high resistance short that
really causes the problem outside with the bike. Maybe a paragraph where
it is the tallest kid rather than the fastest kid, that gets the bike,
who notices another slight tingle as he closes the GMC door, while
standing on astro turf, that has been covered by the awning so that is is
not water logged, and he is wearing his new sneakers that he takes off
before going into the puddle.

- --
Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
I agree with this haunting concern.... what could be done about this?
Should we build-in a "ground testing circuit" into our home-brew safety
box. Maybe a short strap from the GMC chassis back to the GFI box and
then a switch (near the GFI test button) that connects the
strap to a small foot installed ground rod that would just verify that
the campsite ground is not a 5000 ohm corroded connection (or the like)
(I don't know how much compliance we can expect if we say you should bury
an 8 foot rod in moist soil) I don't know how much ground rod we need
just to verify that the campsite ground is good as you suggested.

>One thing that still haunts me about this thread is the reliablity of
>the campground-supplied ground wire. In your hypothetical example, we
>have one that is completely broken. A handy dandy checker would catch
>that so therefore it is good practice to always check the outlet when
>hooking up. But what if instead of being completely open, it is instead
>a corroded connection of, say, 5000 ohms? The neon light in the handy
>dandy tester will see 5000 ohms as a ground and will happily light,
>indicating a ground. Then if your water heater element has a 2000 ohm
>fault as Edgar's did, you've got a voltage divider putting the coach
>frame at a potential of five sevenths of the line voltage above ground.
>This is close to a hundred volts, still potentially lethal and
>definitely dangerous. But at least a GFCI should tip immediately when
>you hook up. I still have the nagging feeling that it would be prudent
>to try to provide a dedicated ground wire as part of the hook-up
>procedure, even knowing that it is less than perfect. If it just
>provided enough of a ground to cause your GFCI to trip, it was
>definitely worth connecting.
Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
An observation: With the water heater switch turned off (yes, it is wired
properly), the GFI supplying the power to my coach tripped. Only after removing
the neutral wire going to the water heater from the neutral buss in the breaker
box did the problem disappear. The neutral wire is not at the same potential as
the ground wire in the coach.

> I'll just add one small thought...
>
> | Well we have already seen one
> | thing different from Mark Grady's niece's experience the CFI did not
> | trip in our case when the unit with the short was turned on.
>
> I'm thinking that the reason the GFI in my garage didn't trip was because
> the outlet was properly wired. (supply to brass/bronze 'hot' side and
> neutral to silver).
>
> The water heater element wasn't in the hot side of the circuit until the
> water heater switch in the closet got turned on.
>
> *IF* the outlet had been wired 'backwards', the heating element would have
> been in the circuit since only one side is switched. *IF* the third wire
> ground isn't good, then... Houston, we've got a problem. A serious one.
>
> Personally, I'm not sure a 4' ground rod would do a lot of good, and plastic
> water pipe even less.
>
> I agree that even with a GFI you could feel a tingle before it trips.
> Without one, that may be the last thing you feel.
>
> Test it, then protect it.
>
> Mark
 
I can just see you "watering the ground" . Have a great weekend!
Richard Waters
- ---

> If you want a good ground do what my grandfather always did. Whenever
> he was showing us his old crystal radio set-----if it started to get weak
> he would have one of us kids go out and "water the ground." There is
> enough salt there to put a real boast in the old crystal radio.
>
> Take Care
> Arch Might be best not to do this with a hot ground. ;>(
 
>I apologize if I am going over already plowed ground. I just got back on
>the list this morning. A good way to check a ground in a park is to take
>your digital volt meter and check from the ground plug to earth by
>sticking your probe in the ground under the leaky faucet. Arch

No... you're a mind reader! I just came in from tripping over wires in
my back yard. It is now dark out here and I've been trying to read my
crazy $129.00 digital voltmeter with a flashlight, while not spraining an
ankle.

My faucet is right next to my utility entrance and I have been trying to
establish some deltas. (you know between my cable TV-8 foot ground rod
and my new satellite 4 foot ground rod... all referencing them to utility
ground. Now, I will get some data on the leaky faucet test. I'll let you
all in on my data, but as you once said, "can it wait till morning."

That is a brilliant idea but what's more astonishing is the timing. Not
too long ago folks used to depend on comparing notes at monthly meetings,
or sharing info in quarterly newsletters. I'm going to test some gutter
nails (I've got some 10 inch aluminum), and some copper wire between a
splint of gutter nails, and some of the above combinations with a saline
solution poured into the leaky faucet hole after several removals and
insertions.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>An observation: With the water heater switch turned off (yes, it is
>wired properly), the GFI supplying the power to my coach tripped. Only
>after removing the neutral wire going to the water heater from the
>neutral buss in the breaker box did the problem disappear. The neutral
>wire is not at the same potential as the ground wire in the coach. Edgar

I read your observation the following way: There was a short from hot to
chassis ground of ~ 2000 ohms. When you shut off the switch that action,
removed the short from hot to chassis ground. Possibly the GFI was
looking at a short from neutral to chassis ground which the second sensor
in the GFI was picking up, until you disconnected the neutral wire at the
neutral bus (your GFI was not realizing or caring that it was the same
short, a melted/fused heater element at the end of the heater hot and the
end of the heater neutral wire. (you may have been saying this
also)

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Edgar...

I said a melted/fused water heater element, but I now remember that yours
was working fine. Maybe this was the first stage in burn out (and
possibly starting internally and progressing outward and shorting as it
goes)

>An observation: With the water heater switch turned off (yes, it is
>wired properly), the GFI supplying the power to my coach tripped. Only
>after removing the neutral wire going to the water heater from the
>neutral buss in the breaker box did the problem disappear. The neutral
>wire is not at the same potential as the ground wire in the coach. Edgar

I read your observation the following way: There was a short from hot to
chassis ground of ~ 2000 ohms. When you shut off the switch, that action
removed the short from hot to chassis ground. Possibly the GFI was
looking at a short from neutral to chassis ground which the second sensor
in the GFI was picking up, until you disconnected the neutral wire at the
neutral bus (your GFI was not realizing or caring that it was the same
short, a melted/fused (but still working) heater element at the end of
the heater hot and the end of the heater neutral wire. (you may
have been saying this also)

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>Possibly the GFI was looking at a short from neutral to chassis ground
>which the second sensor in the GFI was picking up. Until you
>disconnected the neutral wire at the neutral bus (your GFI was not
>realizing or caring that it was the same short, a melted/fused (but ** still working) ** heater element at the end of the heater hot and the
>end of the heater neutral wire.

I'm beginning to think that this heater element may need its own
dedicated GFCI combination ON-Off switch. Maybe because of the way this
element fails, the neutral wire and the hot wire should be interrupted by
a DPST switch to remove the likely hot AND neutral Ground Fault that may
occur even before it fails to heat water.

Could someone more familiar with Code Wiring Practices comment on why
both the hot and the neutral don't seem to be switched as I suggested in
the above paragraph.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>If you want a good ground do what my grandfather always did. Whenever
>he was showing us his old crystal radio set-----if it started to get
>weak he would have one of us kids go out and "water the ground." There
>is enough salt there to put a real boast in the old crystal radio.
>Arch Might be best not to do this with a hot ground. ;>(

That reminds me of how I finally taught my little collie pup not to pee
in the house. He is very intelligent, he just didn't understand English
too well (or any of the other techniques that I used on all my earlier
dogs). I had just seen the movie "Dances with Wolves" and decided to
see if I showed him where to pee, he would understand. (we have a back
yard with a 6 foot high brick wall all around the property line, SO I
showed him... worked like a charm. One maybe two lessons and he had it.

Worked for weeks till my daughter came over and took him for a long, long
walk down around the pond... miles and miles. When they got home, the
pup ran to the back door whined and then pee'd on the floor in front of
the door. He obviously thought the back yard was the only place he could
pee.

How'd I fix that mess, I'd gotten myself into? Tune in again for the
next installment of How'd they do that...

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
also enough salt to get one hell of a jolt through a part of your anatoly
that shoould not be used as a test probe.

>In a message dated 7/9/99 8:47:40 PM Central Daylight Time, jdolan
>writes:
>
>> I'm going to test some gutter
>> nails (I've got some 10 inch aluminum), and some copper wire between a
>> splint of gutter nails, and some of the above combinations with a saline
>> solution poured into the leaky faucet hole after several removals and
>> insertions.
>
>John
>
>If you want a good ground do what my grandfather always did. Whenever
>he was showing us his old crystal radio set-----if it started to get weak
>he would have one of us kids go out and "water the ground." There is
>enough salt there to put a real boast in the old crystal radio.
>
>Take Care
>Arch Might be best not to do this with a hot ground. ;>(
>
>
 
Here is the raw data on the comparison of the various grounds:
The readings are in volts on a 2 volt - full scale range.
The reference point was the Power Utility entrance and meter box where
the power cable comes out of the ground (underground cable) and connects
to the meter box. This is where the Phone Company is connected as well.

Both conductors of a 12 guage 100 foot extension cord were shorted
together and one end was connected to the reference point. The other end
was connected to one probe of the volt meter and the other probe was
connected to the ground to be measured/compared. The ground rods were 30
feet away, while the leaky faucet ground was 10 feet away.

Background readings were as follows: both probes unconnected 0.003 v
one probe connected to ref 0.013 v

0.222
0.207 8 ft Cable TV copper clad ground rod, inserted at 45 deg angle
0.218___________

0.608
0.660 4 ft Satellite TV copper clad ground rod, inserted at 45 deg
0.678_____________

0.068 ---- copper tube on AC #1 I think this is a 10' copper path
0.064 ---- copper tube on AC #2 " 10' copper path
_____________

Leaky Faucet ground point (we don't have a very leaky faucet but...)

(a tree root feeder was inserted as far as it would easily go, which was
about 6 inches) Connection was at a shinny metal point with an alligator
clip)

0.181 0 min no water then water turned on at 0 min
0.178 1 min
0.148 5 min
0.131 6 min
0.120 10 min water off
0.131 2 min
0.142 3 min
0.130 4 min

The root feeder was checked and now it easily went in another 12 inches

0.110 0 min no water running but 2 oz salt added to feeder cup
0.105 4 min
0.125 6 min________________

0.125 0 min
0.130 1 min
0.127 2 min water turned on at 0 min
0.106 3 min
0.109 5 min
0.111 6 min________________ water off

The root feeder pushed in another 6 inches and water turned on

0.106 0 min
0.102 1 min
0.103 2 min
0.092 3 min
0.082 4 min
0.089 5 min

At this point the probe of the volt meter was inserted into the mud near
but not touching the root feeder.

0.105 three reading all within 1 min
0.089
0.093

At this point the two ground rods and the Air Conditioners were checked
so we could have readings all taken within a few minutes

0.175 8' GR
0.625 4' GR
0.064 AC
0.068 AC


Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Hi, Rick,

3- and 4-way switches don't actually switch the neutral; they only switch
the hot. What you have seen that makes it appear that way is the use of
ordinary romex to connect 3-way switches; since two hot conductors are
needed, the white is pressed into service as a (switched) hot in this
limited use. As you said, it needs to be marked. But there is still a
neutral, also white, serving as a return for the load, and it is not
switched.

As for not using a GFCI except for the branch circuits: while GFCI's are not
foolproof, and as mentioned they can false alarm under some
circumstances--like your bug zapper--they still do offer another measure of
safety. I'd still like to see your shore cord GFCI-equipped becaused GFCI's
in the branch circuit won't do you or your passengers a nickel's worth of
good if the ground fault is not on a protected circuit. Suppose the
compressor in your rooftop a/c develops a ground fault, thus making the
motorhome chassis hot? If you have an adequate ground connection, it will
shunt most, though never all, of it to ground. But you now have the
potential (no pun intended) for a problem if your ground connection is
degraded. You also don't know that the problem exists.

With a GFCI, you'd have a much higher level of safety, and if it does trip
like it should, you get to start looking for your problem right away. GFCI's
in the branch circuits wouldn't have helped. Even if you put a GFCI breaker
on the a/c, you are still vulnerable upstream...the cord coming in to the
coach could have a fault.

Everyone has to make his own way; this I understand. And you can't make
yourself safe from every possible danger, true. But the GFCI is, to me, a
reasonable measure.

Best regards,

Travis

- -----Original Message-----
From: RickStapls
To: gmcmotorhome
Date: Sunday, July 11, 1999 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: GMC: Don't get electrocuted! (was:Temporary Shore Power)

>
>> Could someone more familiar with Code Wiring Practices comment on why
>> both the hot and the neutral don't seem to be switched as I suggested in
>> the above paragraph.
>
>John,
> I'm not an electrician (I just play one on the Internet), but one thing
I
>do know is that the neutral wire is almost NEVER switched or fused. Even
>your main breaker won't turn that white wire off. Only exceptions I know
of
>are a generator transfer switch and the ever-popular 3-way and 4-way light
>switches, which SWAP the hot and neutral wires for their limitted purpose.
>(And the wires so switched must be identified with paint or tape at each
>junction box.)
> Since the neutral is the power return path, fusing or breaking it at any
>point could make the rest of that neutral circuit "hot", which could be
>dangerous.
> BTW, this (long) thread points out some of the weaknesses in Ground
Fault
>Circuit Interrupters. I realized they were not perfect many years ago when
I
>installed an outside outlet for my bug zapper (Yeah, now I know they don't
do
>much good, but this was 15 years ago.). The zapper would trip the GFCI
every
>time, I suspect due to normal leakage in the transformer or element. IMHO,
>you can't beat a known good ground wire, so I carry (and try to remember) a
>plug-in circuit tester. Personally, I'd use GFCIs on my branch circuits,
not
>the shore cord.
> My .02.
>
>Rick Staples
>'75 Eleganza
>Louisville, CO\
>
>