Do you know this

Jeff,
I can tell you that you need to replace ALL your fuel and vapor lines along
with All the rubber prts in the system. The oil can be coming from the OLD
oil line to radiator.,so you need to replace them.
Call me so I can guide you as there are things that must be done now.

On Tue, Jun 4, 2019 at 5:47 PM wardhillarch--- via Gmclist <

> Update
> First off I can never thank Jon Roche enough for his afternoon of
> education and experience . "Glamped " last night for the first time in
> upper
> Michigan, drank too much scotch due to my new home on wheels excitement.
> Im currently in sandusky ohio heading towards cleveland. Coach seems to run
> great but i am finding some issues.
> Small oil leak under passenger side front
> Small gas leak if i fill tank to the max . Seems to stop when i''m down a
> quarter tank
> Steering feels a little sloppy with tire vibration at around 63 mph
> I cant seem to get the domestic water up to pressure . I can hear the pump
> but I only get a trickle. I Suspect the pump is toast unless there's a
> valve to open or priming needed
> I had a small incident leaving Detroit where i had pulled over to check
> gps and getting back on the highway the engine felt gas starved and had no
> power. Pumped the pedal and it went back to normal.This has since
> dissapeared but wondering about carb filter?
>
> Anyway, i love this thing. I Can back it into a parking spot and smile
> everytime i look at it
> PO was a good man too!
> Gps says 12 hours to go. Wish me luck and thanks everyone
> Regards,
> Jeffrey
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
Watch the oil level, leaks seldom get better. Carb filter is a possible culprit, but it will also affect throttle opening at cruise - stomp it and it
stumbles. Once you replace everything rubber, the stumble may well go away. If not, further troubleshooting isn't real hard. Don't fill it
completely till you drop the tanks and replace the hoses and seals. Sounds like a good coach. Talk to Jimmy the K.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
Also, if the water pump runs but you only get a trickle, there's almost surely a leak someplace. Find it >before< you soak something out of sight.
May even be an open drain.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
You have done well this week! after seeing the photos, I still think you ended up with a really good coach.

I am not as familiar with the edgemonte as I am with other Coach's. I know most of the original coach's had a belt driven pump, that usually need
replacing. Normally not that complicated of a job.

The best thing you can do, is read the operators manual. They are extremely detailed, unlike manuals of today.

http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html

the gas lines, bummer it is a leaker. Way too common of a problem, as the gas lines are mostly all rubber and tend to be in rough shape over the
years. it seems the vent line is the first to crack, and that is probably what you are seeing. it comes off at a bit of an angle, and seems to
crack just off the nipple of the vent. If you see that the lines look newer, it maybe a loose clamp on the vent line. I have seen new lines
leak after a year or two, because the hoses settle in or shrink, and they just need a tightening of a clamp. Either way, dropping the tanks takes
some flexibility and reaching in some odd positions, if you are trying to do it from a creeper. I would say keep a close eye on the fuel leakage,
and probably just not fill it to the top, while you use it a little this summer and figure out what else needs to be fixed or dealt with.

Vapor lock is a problem on these GMC's. At least for me it was/is. how hot was it when it hesitated? I only had vapor lock problems when it was
over 85 degrees out(usually 90), and I was driving, then ended up in a stopped position at a light or something for a short time. You would want to
take off and it would stumble. When I first bought my coach, I replaced all the fuel lines, and installed an electric pump near the gas tank,
that was powered up when I switched to the aux tank. So when It stumbled, a quick switch of the tanks, the electric pump would push some fuel and
it fixed the stumble almost instantly. then I learned to switch that on in those situations and never had a stumble.

If this coach has NO electric pump at all. I think having an electric pump, at least for a counter measure, is now a requirement on the GMC, or you
will have a problem with vapor lock if you ever drive in 90 degree temps or hotter.

few things if it is an original coach, I would check. toss out the original "buzz box" converter/battery charger. get a modern Progressive dynamics
or parallex converter/battery charger. Install a combiner. Make sure you have a set of shut off valves on the air bags with schrader valves.
keep a couple carb filters, a 1" and 5/8" wrench and a ignition module as a spare, as well as always keep a volt meter in the coach. most of
the rest of the stuff is optional, but those items tend to make sure some easy diagnosis can take place when you have problems. I also like to keep
a timing light in the coach, as that is my tool to easily check if you have spark.

It was good meeting you, and good luck in future travels!

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
 
Sounds typical of normal coaches!
\My advise it to check / change the differential fluid as soon as possible. Those poor things are always overlooked
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Jon Roche via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2019 8:26 AM
To: gmclist
Cc: Jon Roche
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Do you know this

You have done well this week! after seeing the photos, I still think you ended up with a really good coach.

I am not as familiar with the edgemonte as I am with other Coach's. I know most of the original coach's had a belt driven pump, that usually need
replacing. Normally not that complicated of a job.

The best thing you can do, is read the operators manual. They are extremely detailed, unlike manuals of today.

http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html

the gas lines, bummer it is a leaker. Way too common of a problem, as the gas lines are mostly all rubber and tend to be in rough shape over the
years. it seems the vent line is the first to crack, and that is probably what you are seeing. it comes off at a bit of an angle, and seems to
crack just off the nipple of the vent. If you see that the lines look newer, it maybe a loose clamp on the vent line. I have seen new lines
leak after a year or two, because the hoses settle in or shrink, and they just need a tightening of a clamp. Either way, dropping the tanks takes
some flexibility and reaching in some odd positions, if you are trying to do it from a creeper. I would say keep a close eye on the fuel leakage,
and probably just not fill it to the top, while you use it a little this summer and figure out what else needs to be fixed or dealt with.

Vapor lock is a problem on these GMC's. At least for me it was/is. how hot was it when it hesitated? I only had vapor lock problems when it was
over 85 degrees out(usually 90), and I was driving, then ended up in a stopped position at a light or something for a short time. You would want to
take off and it would stumble. When I first bought my coach, I replaced all the fuel lines, and installed an electric pump near the gas tank,
that was powered up when I switched to the aux tank. So when It stumbled, a quick switch of the tanks, the electric pump would push some fuel and
it fixed the stumble almost instantly. then I learned to switch that on in those situations and never had a stumble.

If this coach has NO electric pump at all. I think having an electric pump, at least for a counter measure, is now a requirement on the GMC, or you
will have a problem with vapor lock if you ever drive in 90 degree temps or hotter.

few things if it is an original coach, I would check. toss out the original "buzz box" converter/battery charger. get a modern Progressive dynamics
or parallex converter/battery charger. Install a combiner. Make sure you have a set of shut off valves on the air bags with schrader valves.
keep a couple carb filters, a 1" and 5/8" wrench and a ignition module as a spare, as well as always keep a volt meter in the coach. most of
the rest of the stuff is optional, but those items tend to make sure some easy diagnosis can take place when you have problems. I also like to keep
a timing light in the coach, as that is my tool to easily check if you have spark.

It was good meeting you, and good luck in future travels!

--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Made it home to Maine. Kinda sorry the ride is over. First project is to find water leak behind closet. Didn't notice it when running off pump( but
had no pressure) but when i hooked up at a camp site omg.
I,ll look into the gas line issue asap. Never experience the hesitation again but notice it needs to crank longer to fire up
Let the fun begin . I have to let my wallet recover before i get too into this .
Thanks all it was a great adventure hope its just the beginning
Regards,
Jeff
 
If your fresh water tank and pump system works I suggest not using city
water hookup. Not a lot of upside with numerous downsides.

Sully
Bellevue wa.

On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 8:02 PM wardhillarch--- via Gmclist <

> Made it home to Maine. Kinda sorry the ride is over. First project is to
> find water leak behind closet. Didn't notice it when running off pump( but
> had no pressure) but when i hooked up at a camp site omg.
> I,ll look into the gas line issue asap. Never experience the hesitation
> again but notice it needs to crank longer to fire up
> Let the fun begin . I have to let my wallet recover before i get too into
> this .
> Thanks all it was a great adventure hope its just the beginning
> Regards,
> Jeff
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Sully:

There are a number of people on this list who feel exactly the same way, and I’m about to join you (and them).

Especially with the macerator pump, there is almost no reason to have a water connection.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"

>
> If your fresh water tank and pump system works I suggest not using city
> water hookup. Not a lot of upside with numerous downsides.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa.
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 8:02 PM wardhillarch--- via Gmclist <

>
>> Made it home to Maine. Kinda sorry the ride is over. First project is to
>> find water leak behind closet. Didn't notice it when running off pump( but
>> had no pressure) but when i hooked up at a camp site omg.
>> I,ll look into the gas line issue asap. Never experience the hesitation
>> again but notice it needs to crank longer to fire up
>> Let the fun begin . I have to let my wallet recover before i get too into
>> this .
>> Thanks all it was a great adventure hope its just the beginning
>> Regards,
>> Jeff
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
check the city water feed, particularly the one way valve. There's really no good way to drain it completely, and it will freeze and split, even in
Ga weather, much less where that coach was. Ask me how I know this :) I simply capped the ends of the pipe where it was (behind that cabinet and
hasrd to get to). I fill the tank and use the pump even with a hookup. Thius also keeps me from running the black tank full.

--johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
 
I'd be fine with working off the pump but it currently does not pressurize the system and keeps running. I was assuming the leak observed from city
water hook up was not allowing the pump to pressurize the system because there's a hole somewhere. Am I off base? Love to have a working solution
 
You might have a failed pressure switch in your pump, like I did.
I replaced the pump and the new one didn't work, either. Checked the new
one, and founnd out it didn't even have a pressure switch on it. bought
another one and...Voila! SUCCESS!
WORKED as it was supposed to. I turned all faucets off, turned pump on,
BRRRRRPT, then silence.
Still working. I still don't trust the darned things, so I try to
remember to turn it on when needed, then turn it off. If I forget to
turn it off, I do hear an occasional short "brrpt".

And that reminds me of a story I read online somewhere.

RVer was at a campground and was parked near the road. Heard that short
"brrpt", a few times in the night, and got up to check his water pump
switch . It was turned off, so he shook his head and went back to sleep.
Next day, right after leaving the campground, he ran over a cattle
guard...
"BRRRRRPT"

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II

On Fri, 07 Jun 2019 13:18:50 -0600 wardhillarch--- via Gmclist

> I'd be fine with working off the pump but it currently does not
> pressurize the system and keeps running. I was assuming the leak
> observed from city
> water hook up was not allowing the pump to pressurize the system
> because there's a hole somewhere. Am I off base? Love to have a
> working solution
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
 
What Im not getting in this conversation is ....
If theres a split or crack in the piping somewhere behind the closet as i suspect wouldnt water leak regardless of the supply city or pump
I recall seeing a 3 or four way splitter on the subfloor to the right of the pump there was a shut off valve to a thin black hose, im guessing drain
and another shutoff valve ??? To what idk
 
Sir: the valves and hose next to the pump is probably a shut off for the water tank and a shut on for the blank end hose to put in a gallon jug of RV
antifreeze to winterize the system. There also might be a bypass valves around the water heater under the bathroom sink if you have a wet bath. You
would bypass the water heater and drain it then close the water tank to pump and open the jug line and turn on pump and then open each faucet, hot and
cold and toilet and shower and let it drain in P traps till you get pink water. Drain the water tank also from OEM valve. As for the city water
leaking, it has more pressure than the pump. Most of us that use city water carry our own pressure regulators to keep from over pressurizing the
system. As for making any sense out of this you will just have to look at what what you got and what the previous owner has left you with.
There is suppose to be a drain for kitchen hot and cold in the wall between closet and kitchen and a drain for the city water inlet in the closet
wall.

> What Im not getting in this conversation is ....
> If theres a split or crack in the piping somewhere behind the closet as i suspect wouldnt water leak regardless of the supply city or pump
> I recall seeing a 3 or four way splitter on the subfloor to the right of the pump there was a shut off valve to a thin black hose, im guessing
> drain and another shutoff valve ??? To what idk

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
If you are really dead set on using a city water connection for your coach
at RV parks, be prepared to have frequent water leaks inside your coach.
This plumbing is all 40 years old if original. It is either plastic or
copper. Most of it has been subjected to freezing temperatures many times,
and have been repaired by amateurs. If this sounds like trouble looking for
a place to happen, it is.
If you want a first class plumbing system, tear it all out and replace
it with PEX with bonded fittings. Not a project for the faint of heart.
Most of us are content using the on board potable water tanks with 12 volt
pump and turning the pump off after use.
I used to sanitize my system with hydrogen peroxide every spring, and
flush it every winter and winterize with potable orange anti freeze in the
hot water tank, water lines, and all drain traps. What a P.I.T.A. that was.
I just drain it and blow it out with compressed air now. We do not drink
the stored water, but carry bottled water for that.
But, learn as you see fit, and do what works best for you and your
family.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 4:52 PM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <

> Sir: the valves and hose next to the pump is probably a shut off for the
> water tank and a shut on for the blank end hose to put in a gallon jug of RV
> antifreeze to winterize the system. There also might be a bypass valves
> around the water heater under the bathroom sink if you have a wet bath. You
> would bypass the water heater and drain it then close the water tank to
> pump and open the jug line and turn on pump and then open each faucet, hot
> and
> cold and toilet and shower and let it drain in P traps till you get pink
> water. Drain the water tank also from OEM valve. As for the city water
> leaking, it has more pressure than the pump. Most of us that use city
> water carry our own pressure regulators to keep from over pressurizing the
> system. As for making any sense out of this you will just have to look at
> what what you got and what the previous owner has left you with.
> There is suppose to be a drain for kitchen hot and cold in the wall
> between closet and kitchen and a drain for the city water inlet in the
> closet
> wall.
>
>
>

> > What Im not getting in this conversation is ....
> > If theres a split or crack in the piping somewhere behind the closet as
> i suspect wouldnt water leak regardless of the supply city or pump
> > I recall seeing a 3 or four way splitter on the subfloor to the right of
> the pump there was a shut off valve to a thin black hose, im guessing
> > drain and another shutoff valve ??? To what idk
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
I had a leak in my PalmBeach where the water line that crosses over the
hallway and runs down behind my cabinet of doors and drawers.
The tee fitting split and caused a severe leak. Took samples of water line
to home depot and the plumbing expert immediately called it pex water line
and suggest that I use shark bite connectors to repair the line. Four
years later all is dry.

On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 5:52 PM Charles Boyd via Gmclist <

> Sir: the valves and hose next to the pump is probably a shut off for the
> water tank and a shut on for the blank end hose to put in a gallon jug of RV
> antifreeze to winterize the system. There also might be a bypass valves
> around the water heater under the bathroom sink if you have a wet bath. You
> would bypass the water heater and drain it then close the water tank to
> pump and open the jug line and turn on pump and then open each faucet, hot
> and
> cold and toilet and shower and let it drain in P traps till you get pink
> water. Drain the water tank also from OEM valve. As for the city water
> leaking, it has more pressure than the pump. Most of us that use city
> water carry our own pressure regulators to keep from over pressurizing the
> system. As for making any sense out of this you will just have to look at
> what what you got and what the previous owner has left you with.
> There is suppose to be a drain for kitchen hot and cold in the wall
> between closet and kitchen and a drain for the city water inlet in the
> closet
> wall.
>
>
>

> > What Im not getting in this conversation is ....
> > If theres a split or crack in the piping somewhere behind the closet as
> i suspect wouldnt water leak regardless of the supply city or pump
> > I recall seeing a 3 or four way splitter on the subfloor to the right of
> the pump there was a shut off valve to a thin black hose, im guessing
> > drain and another shutoff valve ??? To what idk
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
What color is the 40 year old plastic plumbing, Jim?

Thanks,
ronC
=============
On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 17:37:49 -0700 James Hupy via Gmclist

> If you are really dead set on using a city water connection for your
> coach at RV parks, be prepared to have frequent water leaks inside your

> coach.
> This plumbing is all 40 years old if original. It is either
> plastic or copper. Most of it has been subjected to freezing
temperatures many
> times, and have been repaired by amateurs. If this sounds like trouble
> looking for a place to happen, it is.
>
Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
 
Ron,
They are gray or silver.

On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 9:44 PM rallymaster--- via Gmclist <

>
> What color is the 40 year old plastic plumbing, Jim?
>
> Thanks,
> ronC
> =============
> On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 17:37:49 -0700 James Hupy via Gmclist

> > If you are really dead set on using a city water connection for your
> > coach at RV parks, be prepared to have frequent water leaks inside your
>
> > coach.
> > This plumbing is all 40 years old if original. It is either
> > plastic or copper. Most of it has been subjected to freezing
> temperatures many
> > times, and have been repaired by amateurs. If this sounds like trouble
> > looking for a place to happen, it is.
> >
> Ron & Linda Clark
> North Plains, ORYGUN
> 1978 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
That's polybutylene. It will withstand freezing, but it eventually fails
when used with chlorinated water. Bummer. Our house water doesn't have
chlorine in it, so it's held up very well for many years. I replaced all
the iron plumbing in our house with it in the 70's. If you put any city
water in your coach, PEX is the only way to go.
And PEX plumbing comes in 3 colors, so your plumbing can be color-coded,
red for hot water, blue for cold.

ronC

On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 21:49:52 -0700 Jim Kanomata via Gmclist

> Ron,
> They are gray or silver.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 9:44 PM rallymaster--- via Gmclist <

>
> >
> > What color is the 40 year old plastic plumbing, Jim?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > ronC
> > =============
> > On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 17:37:49 -0700 James Hupy via Gmclist

> > > If you are really dead set on using a city water connection for
> your
> > > coach at RV parks, be prepared to have frequent water leaks
> inside your
> >
> > > coach.
> > > This plumbing is all 40 years old if original. It is
> either
> > > plastic or copper. Most of it has been subjected to freezing
> > temperatures many
> > > times, and have been repaired by amateurs. If this sounds like
> trouble
> > > looking for a place to happen, it is.
> > >
> > Ron & Linda Clark
> > North Plains, ORYGUN
> > 1978 Eleganza II
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
 
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