They are only there to keep the shaft from falling out when the engine is
inverted, as I previously described.
Now the $64,000 dollar question is, Do we really need those washers?
Short answer is, no, if you are not inverting the engine. So, we
probably are good to install the shaft with NO WASHERS, drop in the
distributor and check for end play. If you have some, button it up and
fuggitabout it.
If you are anal like me, and strive for perfection in engine
building, you would pull the pan and oil pump, install the shaft with the
spring washers in the correct position, button it back up, and be not 1 bit
better off for the effort. But that is just me. Please use your best
judgment here.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
> Jim,
>
> You're correct: I examined a brand new shaft today, which had the stop in
> place (actually 2 push-on spring washers back-to-back). Since Ken Shaffer
> can pull his shaft out, those washers are no longer in place. Then I found
> among my jump a used shaft with those washers also missing (including scars
> where they'd been pulled off). That shaft shows, below the previous stop
> washers' location, wear where it seated about 1/2" into the oil pump. At
> the other end, there are scars from about 1" seated in the distributor
> shaft.
>
> My question now is, WHY is the stop necessary, other than for assembly, as
> you described? With the oil pump limiting downward motion and the
> distributor preventing upward travel, WHY are the washers essential?
>
> Just curious, really,
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> > Problem is NOT in the distributor! It is the drive shaft, and the spring
> > clip that is supposed to be located in that free zone between the top of
> > the oil pump and the engine block. I suspect that you could just get hold
> > of the distributor drive shaft, and a slight pull could have it in your
> > hand. Which is NOT HOW it should be. It should remain in the engine when
> > you invert the engine like you do when torquing the crank bearings, etc.
> It
> > is usually the next to the last thing that I install when buttoning up
> the
> > lower end of an engine.
> > Been bitten by that gremlin once, a long time ago in a far away
> land
> > known as my foray into the automotive machine shop business with an
> > alcoholic partner. But, that is at least a two beer story!
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Oregon
> >
> >
> > > I told Ken Shaffer last night. To mark a stick. As to the distance from
> > > the top of the intermediate oil pump shaft. To the top of the engine
> > block.
> > > At the distributor hole. He then came to my house this morning. So, we
> > > could compare the distance between his 455. And a rebuilt 455 that I
> have
> > > laying around here. On an engine stand. Ken's shaft is .470-inch higher
> > in
> > > the block than mine. Ken S intermediate shaft is 8.062 in. Ken H has
> > > measured two shafts. At 8.125, and 8.187 in. So, Ken S saft is the
> > shortest
> > > already. Then there's another issue. By shimming the distributor up.
> The
> > > distributor drive gear is running .470 in higher than it should be. In
> > > relationship to the cam gear. Not good. I need to put some bluing on
> the
> > > driven gear. Just to see how bad it is. (The gear pattern will be on
> the
> > > very end of that driven gear.)
> > > As another note. When the engine is running. The distributor
> drive
> > > gears. Are pulling the distributor main shaft down. So, what
> stop/stops?
> > > Are keeping that main shaft. Down ward forces. From damaging the
> pick-up
> > > coil? I need to take a good distributor apart. I use to have some
> around.
> > > But Ken Saffer has destroyed ALL of them. GRIN. I've said for about a
> > year
> > > now. That something is up with that new oil pump. That Ken S installed
> > > back then.
> > > Engines, drivetrains, and suspensions are my thing. With all the
> > > engines that I've built over a lot of years. This is truly a new one.
> > > Bob Dunahugh
> > > 78 Royale since 2003
> > > 4 real COPO Yenkos
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