Derusting the GMC

[richard bachert]

Gang,
Derusting and repainting the frame rails and other structural components of
coach. Went to Northern Tool and picked up AIR SCALER for about 40 bucks!
Others -- who will go nameless -- wanted $150 for a similar tool. Works
like champ in knocking off that rust. Be sure to wear EAR PROTECTION (and
buy any nearby neighbors a bottle of that vodka one of our folks has been
wasting in the GAS TANK and give them time to get well into it before firing
up the scaler). Using a warm RUSTOLEUM over their gray auto primer. If
anyone has better, longer lasting paint, please advise. Also using 23K RPM
air wire brush to good effect in those areas I can reach with it.

In that connection, I descaled and put Rustoleum on the rearmost frame rails
BEFORE putting her away almost 9 years ago. Those rails squatted in the mud
for much of that time and THE RUSTOLEUM IS STILL IN PLACE WITH LITTLE OR NO
SIGN OF RUST IN THE AREA.

Also wondered what others have done with the open leading end of the main
frame rails at the front of the coach just aft of the rad. Inspected that
area yesterday and found LOTS of scale and quite an accumulation of same
INSIDE these rectangular openings. Descaled and primed as far into them as
I could. Seems to me these are natural water intakes (with no way for it to
get out) with consequent oxidation and weakening. ANYONE OUT THERE CAPPED
AND SEALED THESE HOLES?? Unless I get some negative on this, will probably
do so.

Thanks for all the highly constructive chatter on the GMC. The info is
priceless!
Obsessive-compulsive Dick 75 PB in Atlanta

 

[homebase1]

Rick
>
Around here, transmission fluid is used. Motor oil 'eats' rubber
mounts and bushings but tranny fluid doesn't.

See ya
Mike Beaton......... ' 77 Kingsley
Antigonish Nova Scotia

 

[thom hole]

When I took out the numerous cables that the previous owner on the coach
had running through that open beam, I was AMAZED at the crap tha was in
there. What I saw convined me that, at least in my case, this would be a
serious are for rust to eat away unchecked. But, I am left to wondering if
witng nothing in the channel would regular use just blow the inside of the
channel clean and dry?? The open end faces an natural air blast when the
coach is in motion and exits benid the front wheel well. Has anyone had
this channel rust out??

>Gang,
>Derusting and repainting the frame rails and other structural components of
>coach.


>
>Also wondered what others have done with the open leading end of the main
>frame rails at the front of the coach just aft of the rad. Inspected that
>area yesterday and found LOTS of scale and quite an accumulation of same
>INSIDE these rectangular openings. Descaled and primed as far into them as
>I could. Seems to me these are natural water intakes (with no way for it to
>get out) with consequent oxidation and weakening. ANYONE OUT THERE CAPPED
>AND SEALED THESE HOLES?? Unless I get some negative on this, will probably
>do so.
>
>Thanks for all the highly constructive chatter on the GMC. The info is
>priceless!
>Obsessive-compulsive Dick 75 PB in Atlanta
>

 

[dave1]

>Rick
>fall.>>>
>Around here, transmission fluid is used. Motor oil 'eats' rubber
>mounts and bushings but tranny fluid doesn't.

Reminds me of another variation we would use to fight rust. We would melt
down bees wax toilet rings (my friends father was a plumber) with paint
thinner and spray that onto the inside of rusting panels and under the
cars. Seemed to work well. The thinner would soak into the rust and then
evaporate leaving the wax which would repel water. Seemed to slow down the
rusting process.

Of course, back in those days, there really was nothing that could be done
to keep an old ford from disintegrating once the first rust spot appeared.
Ahhh yes... The good old days...

Dave
73 Sequoia

 

[thomas g. warner]

Once again a product called POR15 stops rust cold. Can be obtained from
http://www.por15.com/

GENERAL INFORMATION=20
POR-15=AE is a paint-like substance which acts as a total rust inhibitor and
also very effective as a metal filler. Its consistency is approximately that
of paint and it has very good spreadability (one quart covers 96 square
feet). POR-15=AE chemically bonds to rusted steel to form a rock-hard,
nonporous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It works by isolating
metal from moisture; without moisture present, steel can=92t rust. Thin,
covering coats are best. Apply second coat when first coat is dry to touch
with slight "finger-drag" remaining.

=A0

> >Rick
> >would spray the entire underside with motor oil on a dry day each=20
> >fall.>>> =20
> >Around here, transmission fluid is used. Motor oil 'eats' rubber=20
> >mounts and bushings but tranny fluid doesn't.
>
>Reminds me of another variation we would use to fight rust. We would melt
>down bees wax toilet rings (my friends father was a plumber) with paint
>thinner and spray that onto the inside of rusting panels and under the
>cars. Seemed to work well. The thinner would soak into the rust and then
>evaporate leaving the wax which would repel water. Seemed to slow down the
>rusting process.
>
>Of course, back in those days, there really was nothing that could be done
>to keep an old ford from disintegrating once the first rust spot appeared.
>Ahhh yes... The good old days...=20
>
>Dave
>73 Sequoia
>
>
>
Tom & Marg Warner
Vernon Center NY
1976 palmbeach