Dash Heat

emerystora

New member
Apr 6, 1999
14,608
1
1
Ray
The valve that you posted is a 24 volt valve. Does that work on 12 volts?

I see there are other make on Amazon for 12 volts.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Now that's a find. Lots of other places one could be used-not necessarily in a GMC.
>
> Hal
>
>

>> We have a 78 Royale and our dash heat works great. I did install an
>> electric ball valve in the water line to it so I could shut it off
>> 100% in the summer. These ball valves work great and are inexpensive,
>> I have a switch on the dash to open and close it.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-Electrical-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XCJZ9SD/ref=asc_df_B06XCJZ9SD/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=2420177
>> 78841&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15971175777606282390&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocp
>> hy=9018851&hvtargid=pla-403849648265&psc=1

>>>
>>> Let's take a poll: how many of you have coaches with the original dash heat in working order? Bought mine without it and haven't missed it
>>> but seeing
>>> if it's even worth getting it working again. Super involved or easy?
>>> --
>>> 1978 Kingsley -
>>> Kansas City, MO
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ray Erspamer
>> 78 Royale - "The Great Lakes Eagle"
>> Center Kitchen TZE368V101144
>> Wauwatosa, Wisconsin 53226
>> Email: 78GMCRoyale
>> 414-484-9431
>> Web Site: http://ray-lisa.page.tl/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> --
> 1977 Royale 101348,
>
> 1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
>
> 1975 Eleganza II, 101230,
>
> 1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
>
> Rio Rancho, NM
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with an
indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.

I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.

Thanks
--
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
 
Bruce,

That valve bypasses the heater core to keep it from heating the cold air
from the air conditioner while maintaining water flow through the
remote throttle body on a port fuel injection to keep it from frosting up.

Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Hislop"
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2019 8:49 AM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat

> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should
> be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground)
> and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
> an
> indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>
> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses
> to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
> just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system
> need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.
>
> Thanks
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Sir, concerning the water circulation from engine to and from heater.. a 3/4" hose comes off the water pump to heater, it has a T in the line that
is 5/8" and goes to rear of engine intake manifold which circulates coolant thru engine even if the hose going to heater or the return that Ts at the
rear of intake in water jacket is closed off with a valve. Most of us have one manual shut off under hood to replace the vacuum operated OEM one
which closes with vacuum when AC is on. If concerned about a leaking heater core you can block off both with no ill effect on engine circulation if
OEM bypass is there. These are also the lines that go to house water heater and blocking dash heater core should not effect it.

> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
> an indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>
> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you
> can just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling
> system.
>
> Thanks

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
Not trying (very hard) to gloat but if you were sitting on the beach at Puerto Penasco, Sonora, Mexico as we are the very last thing you would want is dash heat. Sorry, I couldn’t resist (grin)

Jerry

Jerry Work
Kerby, OR

>
> Send Gmclist mailing list submissions to
> gmclist
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> gmclist-request
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Gmclist digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Dash Heat (Gary Kosier)
> 2. Re: Dash Heat (Charles Boyd)
> 3. Re: John L. (Larry)
> 4. Re: New Engine on the way (Johnny Bridges)
> 5. Re: A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the Group
> (Chris Tyler)
> 6. Re: Onan rear bearing (Tyler)
> 7. Re: Onan rear bearing (Jon Roche)
> 8. Re: John L. (John R. Lebetski)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 13:29:02 -0500
> From: "Gary Kosier"
> To:
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Bruce,
>
> That valve bypasses the heater core to keep it from heating the cold air
> from the air conditioner while maintaining water flow through the
> remote throttle body on a port fuel injection to keep it from frosting up.
>
> Gary Kosier
> 77PB w/500Cad
> Newark, Ohio
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bruce Hislop"
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2019 8:49 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>
>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should
>> be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground)
>> and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>> an
>> indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>
>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses
>> to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
>> just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system
>> need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.
>>
>> Thanks
>> --
>> Bruce Hislop
>> ON Canada
>> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
>> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:04:38 -0700
> From: Charles Boyd
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sir, concerning the water circulation from engine to and from heater.. a 3/4" hose comes off the water pump to heater, it has a T in the line that
> is 5/8" and goes to rear of engine intake manifold which circulates coolant thru engine even if the hose going to heater or the return that Ts at the
> rear of intake in water jacket is closed off with a valve. Most of us have one manual shut off under hood to replace the vacuum operated OEM one
> which closes with vacuum when AC is on. If concerned about a leaking heater core you can block off both with no ill effect on engine circulation if
> OEM bypass is there. These are also the lines that go to house water heater and blocking dash heater core should not effect it.
>
>
>
>
>
>

>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>> an indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>
>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you
>> can just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling
>> system.
>>
>> Thanks
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:58:39 -0700
> From: Larry
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> John,
> Are you still at :
> mailto:gransport7087
>
> Well, anyway, here is the note I sent you at that gmail account and a PM from GMCforum.
>
> John,
> Do you have access to or have info where I can get an accumulator that will work with our PM's?
>
> I just bought a PM as a back-up that has a weak accumulator, and I suspect that the accumulator in the one I got from you is weak. The motor runs
> about every 5 seconds or so for about 2 seconds.
>
> TIA
>
> Larry. :)
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 14:46:17 -0700
> From: Johnny Bridges
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Engine on the way
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> So after some hiatus for personal stuff, I'm back at it. Stripped the interior yesterday and the carpet today. All the interior want to Tim's
> Upholstery, he does most of the high line and custom stuff around here. Very light biege textured vinyl to go on the bunks and the dinette and the
> panels which cover under them. Gonna put snap together flooring in place of the carpet which isn't worth cleaning. Then we'll replace the removed
> cabinet with the repaired back. Meantimes the trolley goes in, and the lunched mill comes out. Then off to Americus for the new one.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 18:18:08 -0700
> From: Chris Tyler
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the
> Group
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have yet to be convinced distilled water is nessesary or a real advantage in cooling systems. Batteries are another story.
> But for the negligible cost? Why not...
> --
> 76 Glenbrook
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 20:12:57 -0700
> From: Tyler
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks Jim on the part suggestions
>
> Here is a pic of the bad bearing...
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6734/medium/onan_bearing_bad.jpg
>
> I have the Onan I am taking out loose from the mounts, but the wires are not as straightforward as I hoped to unhook. Try again in the light tomorrow.
> Seems like bolted to coach, and bolted to genny.
>
> And...to remove the "bell" to get to this bearing, is it just a cover, or will I be messing with the electrical stuff to get access? I read the manual
> on a full service, but I've never been into one of these before. Any tips or simplified "look for this" suggestions?
>
>
>
>
> --
> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:29:24 -0700
> From: Jon Roche
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> keep track of the little tab. it may go flying.
>
> there are brushes to deal with, you may want to replace the brushes while in there. I think you end up taking the brushes out before you take that
> blue plate/end cover off. also take a good look at the field coil for corrosion and try to clean that up.
>
>
> as far as removing, I used a socket, a piece of flat stock and 2-C-clamps. it was stuck, but when I put some pressure on it, and tapped with hammer
> it came loose/off. (blue plate).
>
>
> however getting the bearing off the shaft is another problem. I don't have a puller that fits well, and I have not been successful in removing the
> bearing yet from the shaft. My field coil is bad, so I may end up parting out my onan, as I found a 2800 microlite that I am pretty sure i will end
> up using. So I may never take the bearing off of mine.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:22:27 -0700
> From: John R. Lebetski
> To: gmclist
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sorry that email was just to use this site when AOL became unsupported. Cardone sells a repurposed slightly larger unit that works. Sellers on eBay
> or Kirbanperformance.com. About $200. But your symptoms are not perse accumulator though that may be weak too. Pump running repeatedly is usually
> check valve or can be internal leak in master ( less likely). Discharge unit key off 10 pedal applications and disconnectt the pressure line entering
> side of MC. Use a small easy out to pull out the check valve seat assy and spring with poppet. Clean and if needed the plastic poppet can be refaced
> gently with a sheet of 1500 wet on a glass or granite surface. Very lightly and at 90 to the surface reface the poppet with a few circular actions.
> Is all the air bled out? If foaming the volume will drop as foam settles and cause pump to run again. Or a spec of dirt can cause leak down. They all
> had no leak down on test jig. Weak accumulator is usually "runs with pedal apply" or just one apply. With a fresh accumulator you should get 2 applies
> then run.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmclist mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Gmclist Digest, Vol 126, Issue 27
> ****************************************
 
It’s ok Jerry. I would too.

Just finished winterizing my coach. In 32 degree weather.

Dolph Santorine

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Sullybuilt Bags, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

>
> Not trying (very hard) to gloat but if you were sitting on the beach at Puerto Penasco, Sonora, Mexico as we are the very last thing you would want is dash heat. Sorry, I couldn’t resist (grin)
>
> Jerry
>
> Jerry Work
> Kerby, OR
>

>>
>> Send Gmclist mailing list submissions to
>> gmclist
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> gmclist-request
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> gmclist-owner
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of Gmclist digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: Dash Heat (Gary Kosier)
>> 2. Re: Dash Heat (Charles Boyd)
>> 3. Re: John L. (Larry)
>> 4. Re: New Engine on the way (Johnny Bridges)
>> 5. Re: A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the Group
>> (Chris Tyler)
>> 6. Re: Onan rear bearing (Tyler)
>> 7. Re: Onan rear bearing (Jon Roche)
>> 8. Re: John L. (John R. Lebetski)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 13:29:02 -0500
>> From: "Gary Kosier"
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>> reply-type=original
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> That valve bypasses the heater core to keep it from heating the cold air
>> from the air conditioner while maintaining water flow through the
>> remote throttle body on a port fuel injection to keep it from frosting up.
>>
>> Gary Kosier
>> 77PB w/500Cad
>> Newark, Ohio
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Bruce Hislop"
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2019 8:49 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>>
>>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should
>>> be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground)
>>> and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>>> an
>>> indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>>
>>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses
>>> to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
>>> just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system
>>> need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> --
>>> Bruce Hislop
>>> ON Canada
>>> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
>>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
>>> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:04:38 -0700
>> From: Charles Boyd
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Sir, concerning the water circulation from engine to and from heater.. a 3/4" hose comes off the water pump to heater, it has a T in the line that
>> is 5/8" and goes to rear of engine intake manifold which circulates coolant thru engine even if the hose going to heater or the return that Ts at the
>> rear of intake in water jacket is closed off with a valve. Most of us have one manual shut off under hood to replace the vacuum operated OEM one
>> which closes with vacuum when AC is on. If concerned about a leaking heater core you can block off both with no ill effect on engine circulation if
>> OEM bypass is there. These are also the lines that go to house water heater and blocking dash heater core should not effect it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

>>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>>> an indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>>
>>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you
>>> can just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling
>>> system.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> --
>> C. Boyd
>> 76 Crestmont
>> East Tennessee
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:58:39 -0700
>> From: Larry
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> John,
>> Are you still at :
>> mailto:gransport7087
>>
>> Well, anyway, here is the note I sent you at that gmail account and a PM from GMCforum.
>>
>> John,
>> Do you have access to or have info where I can get an accumulator that will work with our PM's?
>>
>> I just bought a PM as a back-up that has a weak accumulator, and I suspect that the accumulator in the one I got from you is weak. The motor runs
>> about every 5 seconds or so for about 2 seconds.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Larry. :)
>> --
>> Larry
>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> Menomonie, WI.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 14:46:17 -0700
>> From: Johnny Bridges
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Engine on the way
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> So after some hiatus for personal stuff, I'm back at it. Stripped the interior yesterday and the carpet today. All the interior want to Tim's
>> Upholstery, he does most of the high line and custom stuff around here. Very light biege textured vinyl to go on the bunks and the dinette and the
>> panels which cover under them. Gonna put snap together flooring in place of the carpet which isn't worth cleaning. Then we'll replace the removed
>> cabinet with the repaired back. Meantimes the trolley goes in, and the lunched mill comes out. Then off to Americus for the new one.
>>
>> --johnny
>> --
>> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
>> Braselton, Ga.
>> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 18:18:08 -0700
>> From: Chris Tyler
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the
>> Group
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> I have yet to be convinced distilled water is nessesary or a real advantage in cooling systems. Batteries are another story.
>> But for the negligible cost? Why not...
>> --
>> 76 Glenbrook
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 20:12:57 -0700
>> From: Tyler
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Thanks Jim on the part suggestions
>>
>> Here is a pic of the bad bearing...
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6734/medium/onan_bearing_bad.jpg
>>
>> I have the Onan I am taking out loose from the mounts, but the wires are not as straightforward as I hoped to unhook. Try again in the light tomorrow.
>> Seems like bolted to coach, and bolted to genny.
>>
>> And...to remove the "bell" to get to this bearing, is it just a cover, or will I be messing with the electrical stuff to get access? I read the manual
>> on a full service, but I've never been into one of these before. Any tips or simplified "look for this" suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
>> Raleigh, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:29:24 -0700
>> From: Jon Roche
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> keep track of the little tab. it may go flying.
>>
>> there are brushes to deal with, you may want to replace the brushes while in there. I think you end up taking the brushes out before you take that
>> blue plate/end cover off. also take a good look at the field coil for corrosion and try to clean that up.
>>
>>
>> as far as removing, I used a socket, a piece of flat stock and 2-C-clamps. it was stuck, but when I put some pressure on it, and tapped with hammer
>> it came loose/off. (blue plate).
>>
>>
>> however getting the bearing off the shaft is another problem. I don't have a puller that fits well, and I have not been successful in removing the
>> bearing yet from the shaft. My field coil is bad, so I may end up parting out my onan, as I found a 2800 microlite that I am pretty sure i will end
>> up using. So I may never take the bearing off of mine.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:22:27 -0700
>> From: John R. Lebetski
>> To: gmclist
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Sorry that email was just to use this site when AOL became unsupported. Cardone sells a repurposed slightly larger unit that works. Sellers on eBay
>> or Kirbanperformance.com. About $200. But your symptoms are not perse accumulator though that may be weak too. Pump running repeatedly is usually
>> check valve or can be internal leak in master ( less likely). Discharge unit key off 10 pedal applications and disconnectt the pressure line entering
>> side of MC. Use a small easy out to pull out the check valve seat assy and spring with poppet. Clean and if needed the plastic poppet can be refaced
>> gently with a sheet of 1500 wet on a glass or granite surface. Very lightly and at 90 to the surface reface the poppet with a few circular actions.
>> Is all the air bled out? If foaming the volume will drop as foam settles and cause pump to run again. Or a spec of dirt can cause leak down. They all
>> had no leak down on test jig. Weak accumulator is usually "runs with pedal apply" or just one apply. With a fresh accumulator you should get 2 applies
>> then run.
>> --
>> John Lebetski
>> Woodstock, IL
>> 77 Eleganza II
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Subject: Digest Footer
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of Gmclist Digest, Vol 126, Issue 27
>> ****************************************
>
>
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> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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> It's ok Jerry. I would too.
>
> Just finished winterizing my coach. In 32 degree weather.
>
>
> Dolph Santorine
>
> DE AD0LF
>
> Wheeling, West Virginia
>
> 1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
> Sullybuilt Bags, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

That is exaxtly why we moved to Florida.

You don't have to shovel sunshine

--
Tom Lins
St Augustine, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, FI-Tech EFI
Manuals on DVD
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
 
I have a 1974 Glacier 260. And no it does not look like it did when it rolled out of the factory.

The coach has had quite a bit of damage and changes from the 3 prior PO's and this included the
heat and AC system/ vent and duct system.

When I bought the coach, the duct vent system was dead, non opperational. All the vacuum lines had
been burnt apart and sealed by one of the PO's.

The AC system was non operational, again PO intervention.

My fix to get ventilation working was to manually prop the vent doors open so they will not close.

The coach had no heat. I found the cause of this was the cable that connects between the control in the
dash and connects to the vent operating arm on the box under the hood where the hot and cold is mixed.
The vent was open to cool air and the cable could not move it.
Fixing was the simple matter of replacing that operator cable. Once the mixer door was moving again,
the coach has more than enough heat.

The AC was a bigger concern. I read here that everyone said the AC was bad and never worked in the
early models. I had one of those underdash hang on models added, replaced the compressor and charged
up. There is plenty of cold when the system runs now. But it would be short lived as the freon leaked
out on the way home from Florida and has been dead ever since. I had to put the AC problem to the side as
the engine power loss problem took the forefront of the need for repairs.
I think it can be sealed and recharged again, and that attempt will happen this summer.

From what I saw, in getting the heat working again, the stock system is worth fixing and you will get
a lot of heat from it.

My vacuum operated dash vents are still manually held open and this allows the air to flow to the cabin
of the GMC. If you are having air flow problems, the first thinG I would suggest looking at, and you can
see the vent doors by looking through the vents into the ducts, would be to see if the doors are actually
opening. I don't know, but there must have been a reason the PO's burnt and sealed those vacuum lines
to the duct doors.... a suspicious case indeed...

--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
 
Your HVAC system sounds as if it would benefit from my eventual approach to
repair:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5280-dash-air-conditioning-redesign.html

Ken H.

> I have a 1974 Glacier 260. And no it does not look like it did when it
> rolled out of the factory.
>
> The coach has had quite a bit of damage and changes from the 3 prior PO's
> and this included the
> heat and AC system/ vent and duct system.
>
> When I bought the coach, the duct vent system was dead, non opperational.
> All the vacuum lines had
> been burnt apart and sealed by one of the PO's.
>
> The AC system was non operational, again PO intervention.
>
> My fix to get ventilation working was to manually prop the vent doors
> open so they will not close.
>
> The coach had no heat. I found the cause of this was the cable that
> connects between the control in the
> dash and connects to the vent operating arm on the box under the hood
> where the hot and cold is mixed.
> The vent was open to cool air and the cable could not move it.
> Fixing was the simple matter of replacing that operator cable. Once the
> mixer door was moving again,
> the coach has more than enough heat.
>
> The AC was a bigger concern. I read here that everyone said the AC was
> bad and never worked in the
> early models. I had one of those underdash hang on models added, replaced
> the compressor and charged
> up. There is plenty of cold when the system runs now. But it would be
> short lived as the freon leaked
> out on the way home from Florida and has been dead ever since. I had to
> put the AC problem to the side as
> the engine power loss problem took the forefront of the need for repairs.
> I think it can be sealed and recharged again, and that attempt will happen
> this summer.
>
> From what I saw, in getting the heat working again, the stock system is
> worth fixing and you will get
> a lot of heat from it.
>
> My vacuum operated dash vents are still manually held open and this allows
> the air to flow to the cabin
> of the GMC. If you are having air flow problems, the first thinG I would
> suggest looking at, and you can
> see the vent doors by looking through the vents into the ducts, would be
> to see if the doors are actually
> opening. I don't know, but there must have been a reason the PO's burnt
> and sealed those vacuum lines
> to the duct doors.... a suspicious case indeed...
>
>
> --
> GatsbysCruise. \
> 74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
> Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS
> FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
> UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
Your HVAC system sounds as if it would benefit from my eventual approach to
repair:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5280-dash-air-conditioning-redesign.html

Ken H.
================

Hi Ken
There was a time when I was actually going to do some destructive repair to the heater box. This was before I found the cable from the dash control
to the heater box door handle was bad. Also after the failed attempt to get the Air con working.

The box was never touched because after the cable was replaced, I had crazy heat to the cabin. I should say that the dash duct doors are propped
open all the time since the PO's destroyed the vacuum lines.
This leads me to believe that the duct doors may not open all the way restricting air flow.

The AC was installed in Florida and was freezing cold when it worked but by the time I arrived home, it was dead, what can I say. Hope to hit that
one this summer.

I have looked at your heater box revision before and your dashboard replacement, and all I can say is, it takes my breath away.
Not saying I wouldn't attack mine in the same manner but I have to really want the change in operation to get up the energy to do it. Especially the
dash replacement.

I had the valve installed in the heater hose but I never use it since after the heat control cable was replaced, I don't seem to have any heat leakage
when I shut the heater vent door.
It all seems to come down to operation of the doors, at least in my mind.

Fact: Once I mechanically propped the duct doors permanently open, I had good air flow
Fact: Once I replaced the control cable from the heater dash control to the heater door handle, I got good heat.

The fix, if it can be called that, is cheap and fast and I'd recommend anyone with heat problems to check out the positions of those doors first.

thanks so much for the response

s

--
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO -
UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center