Dash Air

[dean hanson]

I found that replacing the vacuum controlled hot water flow unit to the
heater/AC with a ball valve allowed me to totally eliminate that source of
inefficiency in the summer. Made the AC work much better and the heater in
my '73-23' Glacier couldn't cut the mustard in the winter without the coach
helping anyway.



Dean

"Bringing back the dead" 75-26' Avion

Fremont, Ca. 94536

(510) 657-9600

 

[jim kanomata1]

Since we have numerous problem with the heat on warm weather, we came up
with a kit that allow one to control it manually from the dash.
No fun pulling over to get heat or cut it off .
Keep in mind never keep it off as the collent needs to move around to
prevent oxidation of the heater core.

On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 8:35 AM, Dean Hanson
wrote:

> I found that replacing the vacuum controlled hot water flow unit to the
> heater/AC with a ball valve allowed me to totally eliminate that source of
> inefficiency in the summer. Made the AC work much better and the heater in
> my '73-23' Glacier couldn't cut the mustard in the winter without the coach
> helping anyway.
>
>
>
> Dean
>
> "Bringing back the dead" 75-26' Avion
>
> Fremont, Ca. 94536
>
> (510) 657-9600
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

 

[Irish Rogue]

Thanks Jim K.:
Great advice and easy to forget.
Mike/The Corvair a holic

Sent from my iPhone

>
> Since we have numerous problem with the heat on warm weather, we came up
> with a kit that allow one to control it manually from the dash.
> No fun pulling over to get heat or cut it off .
> Keep in mind never keep it off as the collent needs to move around to
> prevent oxidation of the heater core.
>
> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 8:35 AM, Dean Hanson

>
>> I found that replacing the vacuum controlled hot water flow unit to the
>> heater/AC with a ball valve allowed me to totally eliminate that source of
>> inefficiency in the summer. Made the AC work much better and the heater in
>> my '73-23' Glacier couldn't cut the mustard in the winter without the coach
>> helping anyway.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dean
>>
>> "Bringing back the dead" 75-26' Avion
>>
>> Fremont, Ca. 94536
>>
>> (510) 657-9600
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

 

[billvv]

Why not just fix the pneumatic valve or its vacuum source? If you think an electric valve will hold better than a pneumatic valve, find a
vacuum-to-electric switch. Vacuum at stock valve when in Recirc or Cold, vented for Heating.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.

 

[john phillips]

I think the idea is to keep the heat out of the box altogether rather than
just not send any air over the heater heat exchanger.

On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 10:14 AM, Bill Van Vlack
wrote:

> Why not just fix the pneumatic valve or its vacuum source? If you think an
> electric valve will hold better than a pneumatic valve, find a
> vacuum-to-electric switch. Vacuum at stock valve when in Recirc or Cold,
> vented for Heating.
> --
> Bill Van Vlack
> '76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath,
> Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o
> mid
> November 2015.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>

--

*John Phillips*

 

[SteveW]

I'm thinking about this:

http:/[URL="https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/50-1555-electric-bypass-heater-valve-kit-/"]https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/50-1555-electric-bypass-heater-valve-kit-/][/url][/url]

Looks like it'll allow circulation - and perhaps that's a bit better than just closing off one line with a ball valve.

I'm actually considering two of them. One for the heater box and another for the heat exchanging water heater.

I don't have the heat exchange connected yet... my new water heater runs on propane, 120 volts, or heat exchange. I'm concerned that the engine
coolant might heat it up too much - causing the relief valve to relieve every once in a while. Maybe I'll even incorporate a thermostatically
controlled switch into this contraption.

And... they have manually operated units too at about a third of the price.

No shortage of projects here...

Steve W
1973. 23. Yellow
Southern California

 

[Carl Stouffer]

Steve,

What kind of propane water heater did you install? Did you have to cut a hole in the side of the coach?

Thanks
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member

 

[billvv]

Quote:
> I think the idea is to keep the heat out of the box altogether rather than
> just not send any air over the heater heat exchanger.

I think we're discussing the hot water line that serves the coil, and the (mal) functioning hot water valve. That valve is held closed with vacuum
when the slider is in the Cold and Recirc positions, and open when no vacuum for Heat. If the vacuum is too weak or the valve faulty, it lets hot
water through to the heating coil. If it's working correctly, there is no heat to the coil (heat exchanger).

Quote:
> Looks like it'll allow circulation - and perhaps that's a bit better than just closing off one line with a ball valve.

Not sure what a modulating valve will do for you in this situation. Air temp to the cabin is adjusted by the temp (mixing) door. (Splits whatever air
is coming out of the cooling coil between a path directly to the cabin or one through the heating coil and then to the cabin, or some proportion of
both.)
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.

 

[SteveW]

Thanks Bill -

I wasn't thinking of modulating it - just fully open or fully closed via remote control.

I just seems to me that closing the hot supply to the heater core is not a proper shutoff. This valve allows coolant to circulate either THROUGH the
core or NOT THROUGH the core - but fluid continues to circulate.

I acknowledge that functionally - the result with a single ball valve or this bypass valve is the same - no engine coolant into the heater core.

Yea... I occasionally suffer from analysis paralysis.

Steve W
1973 23 Yellow
Southern California

 

[billvv]

Quote:
> This valve allows coolant to circulate either THROUGH the core or NOT THROUGH the core - but fluid continues to circulate.

I think the HVAC hot water coil and 'domestic hot water, coils are in parallel. Out of rad to wye, one leg to HVAC coil with pneumatic valve, one leg
to domestic HW tank - no valve. Both coils back to second wye, then return to rad. Pneumatic valve stops HVAC circulation only, HW tank continues to
heat water for shower, etc. After that, only conduction will warm HVAC coil - very slightly.
--
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.

 

[SteveW]

Hi Carl !!

I got lucky... already had the proper sized hole on the side of the coach from the hard-to-ignite water heater that I replaced. 23 foot side bath
floor plan.

I purchased an Atwood GCH6A-10E probably 4years ago. Since then - Atwood was acquired by Dometic. I poked around on the dometic site a bit but
didn't readily find the unit. But it sure pops up if you feed "Atwood GCH6A-10E" to google.

Hot water from propane, from 120 volts, or by connecting into the engine coolant for the heat exchanger feature.

But the really clever feature is 9 gallons of hot water from a 6 gallon tank !!! The water in the 6 gallon tank is overheated. When a hot water
faucet is opened - hot water is supplied through a thermostatically controlled mixer such the the overheated water (hot stream) is mixed with cold
water (cold stream) as it's delivered. Voila - effectively more hot water than the tank alone. Smart.

All good in Southern California

Steve W