CV joint ripped boot

[LarryW]

Take the shock absorber off, and bust the upper ball joint loose. Then lay the knuckle back and turn the steering wheel either right or left and the axle should pull out of the knuckle. Take the bolts out holding the axle to the final drive and the axle should come out between the lower "A" arm and the frame. After you do the boot, reverse procedure to put back together. I've been reusing the same shaft to FD bolts for 15 yrs and torqued to "grade 8" spec without them ever coming loose. Just because I'm a little paranoid about what they say about only using them once, I check them at every oil change. JWID

 

[ScottC]

Just did both outer boots before our run to Michigan International Speedway. Both sides take of Tie rod loose from knuckle so you can angle it enough, driver side take shock off and change angle of A-arms with jack, passenger side take off oil filter.

 

[RoadTrippin]

I pulled the shock and still couldnt get it off. Pulled the bolts off the inner cv/ diff to try and get more slack for the shaft to slide out

1. The bolts were not really tight. One bolt missing a washer so someone’s definitely removed the CV before.

2. Tons of oil/grease between the back plate of the CV and diff which indicates that the inner plunge joint probably has issues too.

At this point Im going to just replace the entire CV axle on the drivers side. Passenger side is dry and boots are all fine. Will check for loose bolts and all that on passenger side.

Will follow LarryW advice and pop the upper ball joint to get the shaft completely out.

 

[Carl Stouffer]

I pulled the shock and still couldnt get it off. Pulled the bolts off the inner cv/ diff to try and get more slack for the shaft to slide out

1. The bolts were not really tight. One bolt missing a washer so someone’s definitely removed the CV before.

2. Tons of oil/grease between the back plate of the CV and diff which indicates that the inner plunge joint probably has issues too.

At this point Im going to just replace the entire CV axle on the drivers side. Passenger side is dry and boots are all fine. Will check for loose bolts and all that on passenger side.

Will follow LarryW advice and pop the upper ball joint to get the shaft completely out.

You can actually remove both shafts without popping the upper ball joint. It requires a little finesse, but it's doable and not that difficult.

 

[dsmithy]

Carl's right. If you take off the inner flange bolts and drop the axle, you have to have full lock on the steering to the left for the passenger and full lock to the right for the drivers side and it will come right out. It's a little fiddley, but definitely possible. I've done it several times. I've got a '73 though, so maybe they're different.

 

[RoadTrippin]

Carl's right. If you take off the inner flange bolts and drop the axle, you have to have full lock on the steering to the left for the passenger and full lock to the right for the drivers side and it will come right out. It's a little fiddley, but definitely possible. I've done it several times. I've got a '73 though, so maybe they're different.

Thanks for the tips guys!

Once I unbolted the axle from the diff flange, I was able to get it out to where I could see the splines starting to taper. Usually that means the end of the shaft, but damned if I could get it that last little bit. But thinking about it and seeing that the inner was puking grease with the boot still together, I couldnt unsee it so figured stop fighting it and replace the whole thing.

 

[Richard RV]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Once I unbolted the axle from the diff flange, I was able to get it out to where I could see the splines starting to taper. Usually that means the end of the shaft, but damned if I could get it that last little bit. But thinking about it and seeing that the inner was puking grease with the boot still together, I couldnt unsee it so figured stop fighting it and replace the whole thing.

Once it's all apart it'll be interesting to see what was hanging it up. Maybe hydraulic pressure from the grease...? I dunno. Let Is know what you discover please.

 

[RoadTrippin]

Are inner boots still available for these? Tornado inner? I may just take it apart and check everything, regrease, reassemble. For what a rebuild costs, I can do it myself assuming no excessive wear on bearing parts.

Im just not sure why there was a ton of grease between the diff flange and CV. Can the back of inner CV where it bolts to the diff flange leak?

 

[RF_Burns]

Are inner boots still available for these? Tornado inner? I may just take it apart and check everything, regrease, reassemble. For what a rebuild costs, I can do it myself assuming no excessive wear on bearing parts.

Im just not sure why there was a ton of grease between the diff flange and CV. Can the back of inner CV where it bolts to the diff flange leak?

There is generally a hole in the back plate of the inner CV to allow for air pressure to balance as the axle slides in and out.

 

[RoadTrippin]

There is generally a hole in the back plate of the inner CV to allow for air pressure to balance as the axle slides in and out.

Ah! That makes sense then. Considering I kept jamming the shaft into the inner, I probably helped make more of a mess lol.

Thanks!

 

[Richard RV]

Are inner boots still available for these?

Sirum GMC in Okeechobee has them.