Cruise & Refrigerator

J

john dolan

New member
Jun 25, 1998
503
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Welcome Ted...

Tell us a little more... does the compressor in the refrigerator turn,
vibrate, make a noise, draw current (how much)? I know you have probably
tried turning that 1-6 temp reostat back and forth quickly and
repeatedly! Just like so many other things in life, if you don't use it,
it gets rusty, oxidized, and doesn't work as well as it used to. (and I
know its not your fault, because you just bought it).

The group just went through some diagnostics on the Cruise Control, so I
have to look up my references, but I'm sure some others will jump in, in
the mean time.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Yes, First, I tried set the temp to 3 for a while, no sign of cool or no
noise, vibrate or anything, then, I increase to 6 and later to 9 for 2 or
3 days overall. Nothing! Please don't tell me I may have to buy a new
one. Ted

Not yet...

I've never had to diagnose one, but maybe someone who has just done this
can help us... First thing I would want to know is, is the unit getting
any voltage, and then I would want to know how much current is it
drawing. I would unplug it for a while (to let any thermal safety
breakers reset), get some access to the wires supplying power to the unit
and then get ready to make some measurements on the wires. This is
probably 12 volts and should draw about 6 amps. I can tell from what you
said about the temp knob yours is different from my "all electric" in
that yours goes up to 9. It still should draw about 6 to 7 amps at 12
volts.

Mine has a dedicated circuit breaker behind the kick plate, below the
refrigerator door. You are plugged into 120 VAC and your "Converter"
(the big metal transformer like thing in the closet is humming), correct?
What is the status, condition of your house battery? What is the size in
Cuft of your refrig and does it say all electric?

Anyone who has done this, feel free to jump in...

- --
Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
>Ted -- if this is the original Norcold refrigerator it has a compressor
that
>works off 24 v. AC. The power supply for the refrigerator used either
120v
>AC or 12 V. DC and converts it to the required 24 v AC. at the
compressor.
>Disconnect the wires that go to the compressor, turn the temp control on
the
>highest point and check to see if you have voltage at the compressor. Be
>sure to set your VOM to AC -- NOT DC.
>
>If you have voltage there but the compressor doesn't work you are better
off
>throwing away the refrigerator and putting in a gas/ 120v model.

Another possibility is to purchase a cheap 12v-110v converter. I think they
are only $40 these days and are more efficient than the original. Connect
the 110v line from the refridge to the converter, connect the converter to
12v and you are off and running.

If you want to fix your old converter its nearly always the two power
transistors that fail. Usually the failure is caused by leaving the 110v
plugged in while powering up/down the generator. This causes the relay to
chatter and blow out the transistors.

Dave
73 Sequoia
 
Give us a little more feedback on the comments so far. Do any make
sense... what are we really dealing with there, in terms of the make and
model. We're glad you decided to join in with the group. I'm glad you
were able to see the response from folks that have been through the same
experiences you are going through. Some folks did all this without any
help or comment.

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Hey all!

I have a concern. Running down the road on propane: if you lose ignition or
have a wreck, no pilot light, all the etc's... - what then. The book says,
"don't travel with pilot light on", does it not?

What's the experience and how comfortable is everyone? I think I'll need a
new frig before long and want to know the right direction to go. All
comments appreciated. I am trying to compile a manual from this thread. And
Yes! I have the bit maintenance manuals and even the orig book in this old
'74 that's in good shape and orig. I've never had a failure on the road.
All trips have gone smooth, except I had a blow out once but was beside an
exit ramp with a tire store close by. But the gen has now decided it wants
to be worked on. Oh; and BTW, I'm a consulting engineering and travel a lot
and have spent the last eight months in this ole boy. Sounds like heaven to
me. I'm in WV now, GA next week then to TN & NC and back here. I don't
think anyone out there gets any more use out of theirs than me.

With best regards; I'm
Sincerely,
Sam Pickens
picksam
 
Emery...
Those were crazy days! Were you there the year the bus went in?
Robin

> ----------
> From: EMERYSTORA[SMTP:EMERYSTORA]
> Reply To: gmcmotorhome
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 3:09 PM
> To: gmcmotorhome
> Subject: Re: GMC: Cruise & Refrigerator
>
>

>
> I would agree unless the break is before the pressure regulator. I think
> there may be more of a chance of a later explosion (depending on
> whether the accident was in a ditch or depressed area) if there were not
> a small fire at the broken line or open jet. >>
>
> John -- the propane tank has a safety pressure relief valve that prevents
> it
> from blowing up. You could get a heck of a fire though. Years ago while
> attending the US Gran Prix at Watkins Glen, NY, they had a mud bog that
> people were driving their cars, pickups and motorcycles through. Most of
> them got stuck. Someone opened the gas tank cap and stuck a burning flare
>
> down the fill tube. There was a lot of flames but no explosion. Next to
> it
> at night there was a bonfire. Someone dropped a 30 pound propane tank in
> the
> middle of the fire. When the pressure got high enough the safety valve
> opened and a burst of flame shot out. When the pressure went down the
> valve
> shut off and the flame went out. It repeated this cycle many times before
>
> the tank was empty. When I saw it dropped in I got the hell out of the
> area
> because I figured the tank would explode like a large hand grenade. I
> observed the tank from a distance.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Santa Fe, NM
>
 
> If the propane tank is dislodged, begins to leak and a fire results, I
> would think it would be a shooting flame from the break rather than a
> massive all encompassing fire. My .02 worth Justin

I would agree unless the break is before the pressure regulator. I think
there may be more of a chance of a later explosion (depending on
whether the accident was in a ditch or depressed area) if there were not
a small fire at the broken line or open jet. The open burner jet would
most likely be extinguished in the impact.

Out in this neck of the woods, I have had them want to inspect my tank to
make sure it was off at the tank before entering a tunnel. I often
wondered if stuck in a traffic jam, in the pit of the tunnel with
concentrations of everything including propane building up...

Regards,
John

- --
"I do whatever my Rice Krispies tell me to..."
John said, from inside a 1974 Glacier on the
Potomac, just north of the White House.
 
Re: Watkins Glen ballistic range...

>When I saw it dropped in I got the hell out of the area
>because I figured the tank would explode like a large hand grenade. I
>observed the tank from a distance.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and wisdom...

I drove on that track in the off season. There was nobody around, I just
went around some saw horses in my brand new 1966 Formula S Barracuda.
Top speed for me was about 40, but thought I was going to go down through
the floor boards on some of those turns. That is the extent of my
experience on that testing range.

- --
Regards,
John 74 Glacier
 
OK,
How about running the furnace while driving? I've done that by
mistake (forgot to turn it off) and wondered if I did a big "No No" by
doing so. In cold weather the dash heater is kind of anemic when trying
to heat the rear while driving. I have not had to worry about not enough
heat the past few weeks however.

Richard Waters
'76 PB, Troy, MI
- ----

> I think the printed cautions are what is often referred to as CYA by the
> company. I run with the propane on. I don't see that it is any more of a
> hazard in an accident than the gasoline. I may be 180 degrees off on this but
> I feel there is more likelihood of an explosion, or massive fire from
> gasoline in an accident. If the propane tank is dislodged, begins to leak
> and a fire results, I would think it would be a shooting flame from the break
> rather than a massive all encompassing fire. My .02 worth
> Justin
 
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