Corrosion

P

peer oliver schmidt

New member
Feb 10, 2014
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Hi,

as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
it, seems corroded.

Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of this?

Please ignore my parking skills ;)
--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
 
Peer,

Sorry, your description makes no sense to me at all. Take another picture and have your wife point to the "black thingie."

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC

Hi,

as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
it, seems corroded.

Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of this?

Please ignore my parking skills ;)
--
Best regards

Peer
 
Rob,

He's referring to the corrosion along the top of the beltline -- the "black
thingie" is the rubber rub strip.

Peer,

Removing the trim, stripping the paint, sanding out the corrosion, probably
applying some chemical treatment Sullie or someone else in the body
business can describe, and repainting is the only "solution". You'll find
it's very common -- I've even got a little beginning again under my 13 year
"new" paint job.

Ken H.

On Sun, Apr 19, 2015 at 6:10 PM, Robert Mueller
wrote:

> Peer,
>
> Sorry, your description makes no sense to me at all. Take another picture
> and have your wife point to the "black thingie."
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peer Oliver Schmidt GMC
>
> Hi,
>
> as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
> around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
> it, seems corroded.
>
> Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of this?
>
 
Ken,

I kinda thought that but wanted to make sure.

Peer,

To remove the rubber strip you'll probably have to flush it out as there probably is tons of dirt in behind it especially at the
bottom, IIRC I used a high pressure Karcher unit to clean it out. Once you get the rubber rub strip recess cleaned and are able to
pull the rubber rub strip out you will find that the stainless steel trim is either screwed and / or pop riveted to the main
horizontal body member. If it is screws it is a bitch to get them out as the screws are steel and the horizontal body frame member
is aluminum. Thirty plus years of dissimilar metal corrosion will keep them in there pretty well. You will wind up stripping the
cross out of the heads on a lot of them which will require they be drilled out. Been there done that.

Once you have it off you will be able to clean the corrosion off the horizontal body member and spray it with zinc chromate primer.

A common "upgrade" to that area is to replace the stainless steel trim with a piece of flat aluminum and using a rubber rub strip
from a later model. The aluminum strip needs to be small amount wider than the exposed part of the horizontal body member.

Use countersunk pop rivets and 3M - 5200 adhesive / sealer when you install the aluminum trim, it will never come off!

Run 1" masking tape down the body to mask off the side of the coach so you don't wind up with 3M-5200 all over it.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson

Rob,

He's referring to the corrosion along the top of the beltline -- the "black
thingie" is the rubber rub strip.

Peer,

Removing the trim, stripping the paint, sanding out the corrosion, probably
applying some chemical treatment Sullie or someone else in the body
business can describe, and repainting is the only "solution". You'll find
it's very common -- I've even got a little beginning again under my 13 year
"new" paint job.

Ken H.
 
Am 20.04.2015 um 02:11 schrieb Ken Henderson:
> Rob,
>
> He's referring to the corrosion along the top of the beltline -- the "black
> thingie" is the rubber rub strip.
>

Thanks Ken. That's exactly what I meant.

Removing strip is done by removing the caps, the lights and then pulling
out the strip, I assume?

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
 
> Thanks Ken. That's exactly what I meant.
>
> Removing strip is done by removing the caps, the lights and then pulling
> out the strip, I assume?
>
> --
> Best regards
>
> Peer Oliver Schmidt

Be aware that once the caps and screws are out of that strip that it may/will start to shrink. On mine the strip on the LH side shrunk up 6 inches.
On the RH side in front of the door it shrank 2 inches.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
 
Steve,
> Be aware that once the caps and screws are out of that strip that it
> may/will start to shrink. On mine the strip on the LH side shrunk up 6
> inches. On the RH side in front of the door it shrank 2 inches.

thanks for the tip. What is the best way to prevent the shrinking? Work
in warm weather? Work in cold weather? Work fast?

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
 
Steve,

When I replaced the driver side I slid the new strip in from the rear, slid it all the way up to the front marker light then worked
my way back down the coach pushing forward as I went to compress it. I did not cut it to fit, I stuck about 8 inches excess through
a small snack Zip Lock Bag after cutting the sides of it off. I taped the bag with the strip in it to the side of the coach with
duct tape but not to tight to allow the strip to shrink. I left it like that for two years before cutting it off last fall. When I
was back there in February I noticed that it had shrunk about 1/2 inch, DAMN!

I used the old piece I had removed from the driver side on the passenger side and did the same thing but that didn't shrink.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Southworth

Be aware that once the caps and screws are out of that strip that it may/will start to shrink. On mine the strip on the LH side
shrunk up 6 inches.

On the RH side in front of the door it shrank 2 inches.
--
Steve
 
Rob,
> [..]I slid the new strip [..]
where did you get the new strip from? Applied? If yes, do you have
direct link (I couldn't find it...)

--
Best regards

Peer Oliver Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA

'76a Eleganza II, VA
 
How did they do it on the later coaches? Are they "better"?

Pete

> > Hi,
> >
> > as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
> > around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
> > it, seems corroded.
> >
> > Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of this?
> >
> > Please ignore my parking skills ;)
> > --
> > Best regards
> >
> > Peer Oliver Schmidt
> > PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
> >
> > '76a Eleganza II, VA
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> . That is common in 73 to early 76 coaches the stainless rub rail wears thru the paint and the aluminum side corrodes . You would need to remove
> the rub rails sand and etch the damaged aluminum use body filler and finish sand then repaint when putting the rails back on and use some kind of
> tape to insulate the rail and keep it from rubbing thru the paint again would be helpful.

--
Cary, NC

No Coach yet but dicided it will be wet bath.
 
Sent from my iPad

> How did they do it on the later coaches? Are they "better"?
>
>
> Pete
>
>
>
>


>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
>>> around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
>>> it, seems corroded.
>>>
>>> Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of this?
>>>
>>> Please ignore my parking skills ;)
>>> --
>>> Best regards
>>>
>>> Peer Oliver Schmidt
>>> PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
>>>
>>> '76a Eleganza II, VA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> . That is common in 73 to early 76 coaches the stainless rub rail wears thru the paint and the aluminum side corrodes . You would need to remove
>> the rub rails sand and etch the damaged aluminum use body filler and finish sand then repaint when putting the rails back on and use some kind of
>> tape to insulate the rail and keep it from rubbing thru the paint again would be helpful.
>
>
> --
> Cary, NC
>
> No Coach yet but dicided it will be wet bath.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
 
That rub rail covers the seam where the SMC lower panels join the aluminum
upper panels. All three materials have a different coefficient of expansion
and contraction. By intentional purpose the rub rail serves as an expansion
joint. The constant movement eventually wears through the paint on the
aluminum upper body, exposing the aluminum to the stainless steel rub rail.
Corrosion then occurs. Complicated fix, several methods out there, none
perfect or forever. Got to get rid of any corrosion. Protect the aluminum
from further corrosion. Isolate the dissimilar materials. Paint to match.
Your methods might vary. Peter Huber had an aluminum or stainless steel
side molding made without the rubber strip. Highly polished and extremely
well fitted to the coach. Some of the best work I have seen. Others have
completely removed the rub rail and filled in the seam. I never have seen
one like that that did not crack after a few years. Like I said, no perfect
solution.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
78 GMC ROYALE 403

> How did they do it on the later coaches? Are they "better"?
>
>
> Pete
>
>
>
>

> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > as can be seen from http://possy.de/corrosion.JPG the black thingie
> > > around on the drivers and passengers side with the position lights in
> > > it, seems corroded.
> > >
> > > Anyone has a BTDT (preferable with pics) on what to do to get rid of
> this?
> > >
> > > Please ignore my parking skills ;)
> > > --
> > > Best regards
> > >
> > > Peer Oliver Schmidt
> > > PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
> > >
> > > '76a Eleganza II, VA
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > . That is common in 73 to early 76 coaches the stainless rub rail wears
> thru the paint and the aluminum side corrodes . You would need to remove
> > the rub rails sand and etch the damaged aluminum use body filler and
> finish sand then repaint when putting the rails back on and use some kind of
> > tape to insulate the rail and keep it from rubbing thru the paint again
> would be helpful.
>
>
> --
> Cary, NC
>
> No Coach yet but dicided it will be wet bath.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
 
> Steve,
>
> I used the old piece I had removed from the driver side on the passenger side and did the same thing but that didn't shrink.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.

I suspect the piece you moved was already done shrinking. Fortunately I had more rubber strip available so I only had to put a spliced on piece on
the LH side.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
 
Steve,

Yep, that's why I used it on the sections behind and in front of the entry door. I still left some extra before I cut it off.

It appears that it NEVER stops shrinking!

For those of you with the later coaches that use the adhesive backed stuff does it shrink as well?

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Southworth

I suspect the piece you moved was already done shrinking. Fortunately I had more rubber strip available so I only had to put a
spliced on piece on the LH side.
--
Steve
 
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