I believe Steve Ferguson won't mind my sharing his information to me as
follows regarding the lower control arm bushings. I have one of the
control arms out now and was having a hard time figuring out how to get
the old bushings out. I don't have the new replacements ones yet ( on
order) so it wasn't apparent to me just how the bushings are pressed in
the arm. Steve's post on Gene's page (
http://www.california.com/~eagle/bushings.html ) was a big help up to a
point, but I'm a slow learner and needed more explanation before
proceeding to apply the air chisel to the old bushings. Steve helped me
through the process and I can now report that the bushings came out just
as he said they would. And I didn't have to use the " ol flame torch"
. Thanks again Steve (BTW, isn't this Net great! Thanks Patrick.)
Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN
Phil,
Work the tip of the chisel under the metal lip (not rubber) all the way
around
the bushing. As soon as it starts to lift work the tool under the lip &
push
outward, away from the arm. You don't have to do this full force, you
can hold
back on the impact tool trigger & let the tool do the work. Once you
get it out
about 1/2 inch or so it will pop out the rest of the way quite easily.
It'll go
fast after the first one.
HTH,
Steve
Phil,
The bushing is nothing more that a steel sleeve with a flange
on one end. It is also slightly larger in diameter at the large/flange
end. The rubber
is vulcanized to the inside of this sleeve, then another sleeve is
vulcanized inside the
rubber. The bolt passes through this sleeve. It doesn't matter which
end you are
looking from or to (away from or towards the ball joint) the bushings
are pressed in
from the outside of the arm towards the inside. (Or towards the shock
if that helps.)
Working against the rubber will not produce any results. The press fit
is between the
sleeve & the arm. Once you get one out it will all make sense.
Steve
By the way, if you buggar it up so bad that you can't get a grip on the
flange with a
chisel tip, I have in the past used the 'ol flame wrench. Heat those
suckers up with a
torch till the rubber catches fire & melts out, all that will be left is
the sleeve in
the arm and you can operate on that by sawing a small slit lengthwise &
twisting out the
sleeve. Heat will NOT hurt the arm.
follows regarding the lower control arm bushings. I have one of the
control arms out now and was having a hard time figuring out how to get
the old bushings out. I don't have the new replacements ones yet ( on
order) so it wasn't apparent to me just how the bushings are pressed in
the arm. Steve's post on Gene's page (
http://www.california.com/~eagle/bushings.html ) was a big help up to a
point, but I'm a slow learner and needed more explanation before
proceeding to apply the air chisel to the old bushings. Steve helped me
through the process and I can now report that the bushings came out just
as he said they would. And I didn't have to use the " ol flame torch"
. Thanks again Steve (BTW, isn't this Net great! Thanks Patrick.)
Phil Stewart
'76 Transmode, TN
Phil,
Work the tip of the chisel under the metal lip (not rubber) all the way
around
the bushing. As soon as it starts to lift work the tool under the lip &
push
outward, away from the arm. You don't have to do this full force, you
can hold
back on the impact tool trigger & let the tool do the work. Once you
get it out
about 1/2 inch or so it will pop out the rest of the way quite easily.
It'll go
fast after the first one.
HTH,
Steve
Phil,
The bushing is nothing more that a steel sleeve with a flange
on one end. It is also slightly larger in diameter at the large/flange
end. The rubber
is vulcanized to the inside of this sleeve, then another sleeve is
vulcanized inside the
rubber. The bolt passes through this sleeve. It doesn't matter which
end you are
looking from or to (away from or towards the ball joint) the bushings
are pressed in
from the outside of the arm towards the inside. (Or towards the shock
if that helps.)
Working against the rubber will not produce any results. The press fit
is between the
sleeve & the arm. Once you get one out it will all make sense.
Steve
By the way, if you buggar it up so bad that you can't get a grip on the
flange with a
chisel tip, I have in the past used the 'ol flame wrench. Heat those
suckers up with a
torch till the rubber catches fire & melts out, all that will be left is
the sleeve in
the arm and you can operate on that by sawing a small slit lengthwise &
twisting out the
sleeve. Heat will NOT hurt the arm.
