combiner

[johnny]

The giveaway here is, there is no connection to one side of the isolator. That the house battery dies regularly indicates this is the problem.
First, MAKE THE WIRING CORRESPOND TO THE DIAGRAM. I suspect then if you crank it you will charge both batteries through the isolator. If one doesn't
charge, the isolator has a problem.
Once the stock 12V systems are properly wired and charging with the engine alternator, you can decide whether a combiner is to your advantage or not.
To me, it matters only when the coach is parked and there's AC power to the 12V supply. At that point a combiner keeps both sets of batteries up.

My 23' had no combiner, but used a solar panel on the roof and a controller that kept the engine battery hot. The 12V supply kept the house bank up.
My current coach has a combiner which keeps both up when it's parked. Since it's now under cover, I see no need for a solar system.

--johnny

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

 

[wdwlawfl]

Is there a reason that people are using both the isolator and the
combiner? I'm not following why the combiner wouldn't be used alone, as it
appears to incorporate both functions.

--
William D. Weyrowski
Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
1973 26' Sequoia

 

[Matt Colie]

> Is there a reason that people are using both the isolator and the
> combiner? I'm not following why the combiner wouldn't be used alone, as it
> appears to incorporate both functions.
>
> --
> William D. Weyrowski
> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
> 1973 26' Sequoia

William,

There is no reason not to use a combiner alone. I have done dozens of installs on owners boats that were that way. I don't know about all, but a
Yandina combiner will cause cross charging any time either bank is at charging voltage. This can be very convenient to keep the main engine battery
up when on shore power.

However, if you already have an isolator as was OE, just strapping the combiner across it makes an easy install. Many have here have installed a
combiner across a known damaged isolator as it has very convenient terminals that are available.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

 

[Ken H.]

Simplicity of installation. The two outer terminals of the isolator make
convenient connection points for the two battery leads from the combiner.

Plus, the more reliable, solid-state, isolator's still there if the
combiner, an electro-mechanical device, should fail.

Ken H.

On Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 8:01 PM william weyrowski via Gmclist <

> Is there a reason that people are using both the isolator and the
> combiner? I'm not following why the combiner wouldn't be used alone, as it
> appears to incorporate both functions.
>
> --
> William D. Weyrowski
> Midland, MI and Surfside, FL
> 1973 26' Sequoia
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