combiner

F

fred estabrook

New member
May 14, 2010
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Do you need to install a separate wire to connect the combiner to the
house batteries in the back and the engine battery in the front ? The
instructions that came with the Yandina are not clear but their service
says yes. Anybody else have a better idea?
Fred Estabrook
76 El
Florence AZ
 
You simply connect each of the red wires of the combiner to either the upper or lower terminal on the isolator (big box on firewall ahead of passenger with three terminals). The center terminal comes from the alternator output.

D C "Mac" Macdonald​
Amateur Radio K2GKK​
Since 30 November '53​
USAF and FAA, Retired​
Member GMCMI & Classics​
Oklahoma City, OK​
"The Money Pit"​
TZE166V101966

________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 17:02
To: gmclist
Cc: Kathy and Fred Estabrook
Subject: [GMCnet] combiner

Do you need to install a separate wire to connect the combiner to the
house batteries in the back and the engine battery in the front ? The
instructions that came with the Yandina are not clear but their service
says yes. Anybody else have a better idea?
Fred Estabrook
76 El
Florence AZ
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Thank you.

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 3:07 PM D C _Mac_ Macdonald
wrote:

> You simply connect each of the red wires of the combiner to either the
> upper or lower terminal on the isolator (big box on firewall ahead of
> passenger with three terminals). The center terminal comes from the
> alternator output.
>
> D C "Mac" Macdonald​
> Amateur Radio K2GKK​
> Since 30 November '53​
> USAF and FAA, Retired​
> Member GMCMI & Classics​
> Oklahoma City, OK​
> "The Money Pit"​
> TZE166V101966
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Gmclist on behalf of Kathy and
> Fred Estabrook via Gmclist
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2019 17:02
> *To:* gmclist
> *Cc:* Kathy and Fred Estabrook
> *Subject:* [GMCnet] combiner
>
> Do you need to install a separate wire to connect the combiner to the
> house batteries in the back and the engine battery in the front ? The
> instructions that came with the Yandina are not clear but their service
> says yes. Anybody else have a better idea?
> Fred Estabrook
> 76 El
> Florence AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
> https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.gmcnet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fgmclist_list.gmcnet.org&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf2de522637394b44d06808d6be0053ce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636905305941584653&sdata=Wo%2BCC%2BYYLryJlcOhNhuR2GYJPUf5lH81Ue9ZwbgSLN4%3D&reserved=0
>
 
From Gene Fishes site on how to install the combiner in 10 minutes.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/combiner-to-diode-isolator/p24994-adding-a-combiner-to-a-stock-diode-isolator.html

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 6:39 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

> Thank you.
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 3:07 PM D C _Mac_ Macdonald

>
> > You simply connect each of the red wires of the combiner to either the
> > upper or lower terminal on the isolator (big box on firewall ahead of
> > passenger with three terminals). The center terminal comes from the
> > alternator output.
> >
> > D C "Mac" Macdonald​
> > Amateur Radio K2GKK​
> > Since 30 November '53​
> > USAF and FAA, Retired​
> > Member GMCMI & Classics​
> > Oklahoma City, OK​
> > "The Money Pit"​
> > TZE166V101966
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > *From:* Gmclist on behalf of Kathy and
> > Fred Estabrook via Gmclist
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2019 17:02
> > *To:* gmclist
> > *Cc:* Kathy and Fred Estabrook
> > *Subject:* [GMCnet] combiner
> >
> > Do you need to install a separate wire to connect the combiner to the
> > house batteries in the back and the engine battery in the front ? The
> > instructions that came with the Yandina are not clear but their service
> > says yes. Anybody else have a better idea?
> > Fred Estabrook
> > 76 El
> > Florence AZ
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> >
> >
> https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.gmcnet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fgmclist_list.gmcnet.org&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cf2de522637394b44d06808d6be0053ce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636905305941584653&sdata=Wo%2BCC%2BYYLryJlcOhNhuR2GYJPUf5lH81Ue9ZwbgSLN4%3D&reserved=0
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>

--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
 
No.
One of the end terminals on the isolator is the rear house batterie(s) and the other end terminal is the the front engine battery. Hook it right
there to those two and you are done.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
And ground to the aluminum plate. The others are for remote options. I install across the isolator to have best of both worlds. Do not trim leads.
Neatly cable tie.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
and everything works great. Thanks again.
Fred Estabrook
76 El
Florence AZ
 
Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
what it might possibly be.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
> and everything works great. Thanks again.
> Fred Estabrook
> 76 El
> Florence AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
 
It enables charging of both vehicle and house battery bank regardless of whether the charging source is the vehicle alternator OR the low voltage 120 Volt AC to 13.8 Volt DC power supply (ridiculously named "converter" when used in an RV!).

D C "Mac" Macdonald​
Amateur Radio K2GKK​
Since 30 November '53​
USAF and FAA, Retired​
Member GMCMI & Classics​
Oklahoma City, OK​
"The Money Pit"​
TZE166V101966
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy via Gmclist
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 14:53
To: gmclist
Cc: James Hupy
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] combiner

Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
what it might possibly be.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
> and everything works great. Thanks again.
> Fred Estabrook
> 76 El
> Florence AZ
 
It doesn’t make any difference if you connect it to the isolator terminals or directly to the battery because the wires from the isolator lead to the battery.

I don’t use a combiner as it will allow current to flow either way when it is connected. So, if you have, for example a bad engine battery, it would draw from the house battery bank to the engine battery and possibly drain the house batteries.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

>
> Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
> what it might possibly be.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

>
>> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
>> and everything works great. Thanks again.
>> Fred Estabrook
>> 76 El
>> Florence AZ
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
I’m not sure I understand Emery.
The combiner I put on says it will only “combine” if one side or the other is 13.5 volts. If both are less it does nothing and allows no current to pass either way. The way I understand it it will open only at 13.5 volts and feed to the side with the lower voltage till they both reach 13.5 volts. I like the idea very much and have been comforted with the thought that power from either the 120v charger or the engine alternator will top off everything. As for a failure mode, I’ll let you know when that happens.
Doug

Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Sundry other
P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...

>
> It doesn’t make any difference if you connect it to the isolator terminals or directly to the battery because the wires from the isolator lead to the battery.
>
> I don’t use a combiner as it will allow current to flow either way when it is connected. So, if you have, for example a bad engine battery, it would draw from the house battery bank to the engine battery and possibly drain the house batteries.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>

>>
>> Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
>> what it might possibly be.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, Or
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

>>
>>> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
>>> and everything works great. Thanks again.
>>> Fred Estabrook
>>> 76 El
>>> Florence AZ
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
OK. Let’s suppose that your converter is providing 13.5 volts or more to your house battery but you have a bad cell in your engine battery. Doesn’t that mean that it will keep trying to push current to the engine battery? What effect will that have on your house battery or your converter?

I am asking because I don’t have one and don’t know the answer

Emery Stora

>
> I’m not sure I understand Emery.
> The combiner I put on says it will only “combine” if one side or the other is 13.5 volts. If both are less it does nothing and allows no current to pass either way. The way I understand it it will open only at 13.5 volts and feed to the side with the lower voltage till they both reach 13.5 volts. I like the idea very much and have been comforted with the thought that power from either the 120v charger or the engine alternator will top off everything. As for a failure mode, I’ll let you know when that happens.
> Doug
>
>
> Douglas & Virginia Smith
> dsmithy18 at gmail
> Lincoln Nebraska
> ’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
> Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Sundry other
> P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...
>

>>
>> It doesn’t make any difference if you connect it to the isolator terminals or directly to the battery because the wires from the isolator lead to the battery.
>>
>> I don’t use a combiner as it will allow current to flow either way when it is connected. So, if you have, for example a bad engine battery, it would draw from the house battery bank to the engine battery and possibly drain the house batteries.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick, CO
>>

>>>
>>> Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
>>> what it might possibly be.
>>> Jim Hupy
>>> Salem, Or
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

>>>
>>>> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
>>>> and everything works great. Thanks again.
>>>> Fred Estabrook
>>>> 76 El
>>>> Florence AZ
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Yikes!
Now we’re in the weeds and better minds than mine must answer.
Doug

Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Sundry other
P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...

>
> OK. Let’s suppose that your converter is providing 13.5 volts or more to your house battery but you have a bad cell in your engine battery. Doesn’t that mean that it will keep trying to push current to the engine battery? What effect will that have on your house battery or your converter?
>
> I am asking because I don’t have one and don’t know the answer
>
> Emery Stora
>

>>
>> I’m not sure I understand Emery.
>> The combiner I put on says it will only “combine” if one side or the other is 13.5 volts. If both are less it does nothing and allows no current to pass either way. The way I understand it it will open only at 13.5 volts and feed to the side with the lower voltage till they both reach 13.5 volts. I like the idea very much and have been comforted with the thought that power from either the 120v charger or the engine alternator will top off everything. As for a failure mode, I’ll let you know when that happens.
>> Doug
>>
>>
>> Douglas & Virginia Smith
>> dsmithy18 at gmail
>> Lincoln Nebraska
>> ’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
>> Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Sundry other
>> P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...
>>

>>>
>>> It doesn’t make any difference if you connect it to the isolator terminals or directly to the battery because the wires from the isolator lead to the battery.
>>>
>>> I don’t use a combiner as it will allow current to flow either way when it is connected. So, if you have, for example a bad engine battery, it would draw from the house battery bank to the engine battery and possibly drain the house batteries.
>>>
>>> Emery Stora
>>> 77 Kingsley
>>> Frederick, CO
>>>

>>>>
>>>> Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
>>>> what it might possibly be.
>>>> Jim Hupy
>>>> Salem, Or
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

>>>>
>>>>> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
>>>>> and everything works great. Thanks again.
>>>>> Fred Estabrook
>>>>> 76 El
>>>>> Florence AZ
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Might be late to the party but did you look at the Yandina combiner

https://www.yandina.com

Gary

>
> It enables charging of both vehicle and house battery bank regardless of whether the charging source is the vehicle alternator OR the low voltage 120 Volt AC to 13.8 Volt DC power supply (ridiculously named "converter" when used in an RV!).
>
> D C "Mac" Macdonald​
> Amateur Radio K2GKK​
> Since 30 November '53​
> USAF and FAA, Retired​
> Member GMCMI & Classics​
> Oklahoma City, OK​
> "The Money Pit"​
> TZE166V101966
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of James Hupy via Gmclist
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 14:53
> To: gmclist
> Cc: James Hupy
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] combiner
>
> Something just seems wrong to me about combining an isolator. Don't know
> what it might possibly be.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 12:45 PM Kathy and Fred Estabrook via Gmclist <

>
>> Many thanks to all those who helped. Had a shakedown cruise this morning
>> and everything works great. Thanks again.
>> Fred Estabrook
>> 76 El
>> Florence AZ
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Emery, probably not. If the engine battery were bad , the voltage drop would cause the combiner to drop out. The wire leads are on a Yandina "current
limiting" which would drop the votlage the logic sees. This is true in either direction as symmetrical. In reality driving down the road the
combiner will latch but do very little as both isolator diodes are forwad flowing to their respective batteries from alt. However if you go combiner
only, the full current to the house battery has to go through the combiner. Don't like that idea.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
I strongly suspect that the reason the Yandina combiner leads must remain intact as provided indicates that what would be a MINOR voltage drop along those leads provides the signal for the combiner to switch the charging to the battery it is supposed to charge at any one time.

D C "Mac" Macdonald​
Amateur Radio K2GKK​
Since 30 November '53​
USAF and FAA, Retired​
Member GMCMI & Classics​
Oklahoma City, OK​
"The Money Pit"​
TZE166V101966
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of John R. Lebetski via Gmclist
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 17:56
To: gmclist
Cc: John R. Lebetski
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] combiner

Emery, probably not. If the engine battery were bad , the voltage drop would cause the combiner to drop out. The wire leads are on a Yandina "current
limiting" which would drop the votlage the logic sees. This is true in either direction as symmetrical. In reality driving down the road the
combiner will latch but do very little as both isolator diodes are forwad flowing to their respective batteries from alt. However if you go combiner
only, the full current to the house battery has to go through the combiner. Don't like that idea.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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On the C100 I use there is a wire on it that you can add a switch to if you would like to manually switch it join the two battery banks.

Gary

>
> I strongly suspect that the reason the Yandina combiner leads must remain intact as provided indicates that what would be a MINOR voltage drop along those leads provides the signal for the combiner to switch the charging to the battery it is supposed to charge at any one time.
>
> D C "Mac" Macdonald​
> Amateur Radio K2GKK​
> Since 30 November '53​
> USAF and FAA, Retired​
> Member GMCMI & Classics​
> Oklahoma City, OK​
> "The Money Pit"​
> TZE166V101966
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of John R. Lebetski via Gmclist
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 17:56
> To: gmclist
> Cc: John R. Lebetski
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] combiner
>
> Emery, probably not. If the engine battery were bad , the voltage drop would cause the combiner to drop out. The wire leads are on a Yandina "current
> limiting" which would drop the votlage the logic sees. This is true in either direction as symmetrical. In reality driving down the road the
> combiner will latch but do very little as both isolator diodes are forwad flowing to their respective batteries from alt. However if you go combiner
> only, the full current to the house battery has to go through the combiner. Don't like that idea.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Flist.gmcnet.org%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fgmclist_list.gmcnet.org&data=02%7C01%7C%7C99ae33bca7c147bd5f9a08d6bed11b46%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636906202640623893&sdata=vOpef%2B1jMY1Cd0QcrmdD4ESE%2BOaLwie8S3gC7TQ1MTk%3D&reserved=0
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
 
Either the combiner is broken, which is not unusual, or it is attached incorrectly.
The third possibility is the converter is not putting out a high enough voltage to make it combine.

I have been involved with the replacement of four bad combiners on three different coaches and I do not have one on my coach. These bad ones were on
other people's coaches. A combiner is a dubious "improvement" to your coach and I wouldn't remove a working isolator and that has worked for over 40
years only to rely on a less reliable isolator. They both will work together.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
 
I, too, have replaced several Yandina C100 combiners -- 3 on my own coach.
After the last one, I upgraded to the C135. Despite the claims, I don't
consider the C100 adequate for the GMC. Remember that Andina Marie Foster,
owner of Yandina, inventor of the combiner, originally rated the C100 for
50 amps. She only changed the rating to 100 amps after all the competitors
rated similar ones at 100 -- a dubious basis for what should be an
engineering decision.

Stick with the C135 and above and I think you can enjoy the benefits
without the failures.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, Troy-Bilt APU, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Fri, Apr 12, 2019 at 4:02 AM Ken Burton via Gmclist <

> Either the combiner is broken, which is not unusual, or it is attached
> incorrectly.
> The third possibility is the converter is not putting out a high enough
> voltage to make it combine.
>
> I have been involved with the replacement of four bad combiners on three
> different coaches and I do not have one on my coach. These bad ones were on
> other people's coaches. A combiner is a dubious "improvement" to your
> coach and I wouldn't remove a working isolator and that has worked for over
> 40
> years only to rely on a less reliable isolator. They both will work
> together.
> --
>
>
 
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